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Should I add oil to R134a?



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 17th 05, 06:23 PM
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Default Should I add oil to R134a?

I flushed the entire system, and installed a brand new compressor. The
Haynes manual says I should pour 2oz of oil each into the evaporator
and condensor before evacuating the system. However, my R134a bottle
says that it has oil already mixed in it. My question is, should I add
this oil, or should I assume that the oil in the refrigirent is enough?
I assume that I still need to pour some oil into the compressor ports
to keep it lubricated during startup.

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  #3  
Old July 18th 05, 09:01 PM
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As you suggested I returned the cans and bought regular R134a cans.

Yes I did replace the dryer, but I could not find the expansion device.
This is a 1990 Geo Metro. It does not use an orifice, and I can't find
anything else on the low pressure line. I am guessing that the
expansion valve must be inside the evaporator. The only way to get at
it would be to remove the evaporator, which I am not ready to do. I
measured the exact amount of ester oil, and poured some into the
compressor and some into the condensor. I sealed it up and ran a vacuum
pump for 2 hours. The vacuum stayed at 30"Hg for more than six hours
after the pump was turned off. I am about to recharge the system today.
I will let you know the outcome.






Steve B. wrote:
> On 17 Jul 2005 10:23:19 -0700, wrote:
>
> >I flushed the entire system, and installed a brand new compressor. The
> >Haynes manual says I should pour 2oz of oil each into the evaporator
> >and condensor before evacuating the system. However, my R134a bottle
> >says that it has oil already mixed in it. My question is, should I add
> >this oil, or should I assume that the oil in the refrigirent is enough?
> >I assume that I still need to pour some oil into the compressor ports
> >to keep it lubricated during startup.

>
> You also are going to replace the dryer and expansion device aren't
> you?
>
> You need to take back the cans with the oil already added and get
> regular ol' 134a in a can. Make sure the compressor manufacturer did
> not already put oil in the comrpessor as well.
>
> Find out how much oil your system takes and add the oil back before
> you seal the system up. I do like to spread it across the system like
> the book says to avoid slugging the compressor with oil.
>
> Having the proper oil level in the system is critical to compressor
> life and system performance. Make sure you have exactly the right
> amount!
>
> Steve B.


  #4  
Old July 18th 05, 10:17 PM
Bruce Chang
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Default


> wrote in message
ups.com...
> As you suggested I returned the cans and bought regular R134a cans.
>
> Yes I did replace the dryer, but I could not find the expansion device.
> This is a 1990 Geo Metro. It does not use an orifice, and I can't find
> anything else on the low pressure line. I am guessing that the
> expansion valve must be inside the evaporator. The only way to get at
> it would be to remove the evaporator, which I am not ready to do. I
> measured the exact amount of ester oil, and poured some into the
> compressor and some into the condensor. I sealed it up and ran a vacuum
> pump for 2 hours. The vacuum stayed at 30"Hg for more than six hours
> after the pump was turned off. I am about to recharge the system today.
> I will let you know the outcome.
>


You are a fool if you don't even check the orifice tube/expansion valve
before charging the system.


  #5  
Old July 18th 05, 10:43 PM
Comboverfish
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Bruce Chang wrote:

> You are a fool if you don't even check the orifice tube/expansion valve
> before charging the system.


So Bruce, how do YOU check the expansion valve when you charge a system
like this? Better yet, how do YOU check the orifice tube on a receiver
dryer system?

Toyota MDT in MO

  #6  
Old July 18th 05, 11:14 PM
Bruce Chang
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"Comboverfish" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
>
> Bruce Chang wrote:
>
>> You are a fool if you don't even check the orifice tube/expansion valve
>> before charging the system.

>
> So Bruce, how do YOU check the expansion valve when you charge a system
> like this? Better yet, how do YOU check the orifice tube on a receiver
> dryer system?
>
> Toyota MDT in MO
>


I don't know this system and apparently he doesn't either. He assumed it
had one and he wasn't going to check it.

In response to your question, I would pull the orifice tube and check to
make sure it has no debris in it at the very least but I'd jsut replace
orifice tube. It's chump change in comparison to having redo everything
again.

-Bruce


  #8  
Old July 19th 05, 12:30 PM
Comboverfish
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Bruce Chang wrote:

> I don't know this system...


Your response was rather abrasive considering this fact.


> In response to your question, I would pull the orifice tube and check to
> make sure it has no debris in it at the very least but I'd jsut replace
> orifice tube. It's chump change in comparison to having redo everything
> again.



That is a good plan if this car had an orifice tube. It has an
expansion valve, however, which is next to the evaporator. There was
no direct mention of system contamination. I see no reason to spend
hours of time replacing or "checking" a part that doesn't need any
attention. He said he flushed the system -- if done properly, even an
expansion valve can be remotely cleaned by backflushing.

Toyota MDT in MO

  #9  
Old July 19th 05, 05:15 PM
Steve B.
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Default

On 19 Jul 2005 04:30:47 -0700, "Comboverfish" >
wrote:

>
>That is a good plan if this car had an orifice tube. It has an
>expansion valve, however, which is next to the evaporator. There was
>no direct mention of system contamination. I see no reason to spend
>hours of time replacing or "checking" a part that doesn't need any
>attention. He said he flushed the system -- if done properly, even an
>expansion valve can be remotely cleaned by backflushing.
>
>Toyota MDT in MO


Thanx for pointing out that his car has an expansion valve.

The OP is replacing the compressor so there is at least a good chance
that there is trash in the system. I would replace the valve if I was
doing the job myself if only to preserve the warranty on the
replacement compressor. I also don't understand how you can do a
decent flush of the evap and lines with the expansion valve still in
place. How do you manage to get enougt fluid to back feed through the
expansion valve to flush it all out?

Steve B.
  #10  
Old July 19th 05, 05:44 PM
Bruce Chang
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Default


"Comboverfish" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
>
> Bruce Chang wrote:
>
>> I don't know this system...

>
> Your response was rather abrasive considering this fact.


Sure, I could have candy coated my response but the fact remains that A/C
work is finicky and if you will neglect things because "I'm not ready to do"
then you're gambling. For me, at least, gambling with A/C work is not worth
it. It's a lot more time and money than it's worth if it doesn't work out.

>
>> In response to your question, I would pull the orifice tube and check to
>> make sure it has no debris in it at the very least but I'd jsut replace
>> orifice tube. It's chump change in comparison to having redo everything
>> again.

>
>
> That is a good plan if this car had an orifice tube. It has an
> expansion valve, however, which is next to the evaporator. There was
> no direct mention of system contamination. I see no reason to spend
> hours of time replacing or "checking" a part that doesn't need any
> attention. He said he flushed the system -- if done properly, even an
> expansion valve can be remotely cleaned by backflushing.
>


What's involved in checking the expansion valve? You said it was next to
the evap. Does it mean the evap core has to be removed to get to it?

-Bruce


 




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