Replacing brake master cylinder on 1995 Accord

I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
wallet?

-Zilla

NetDoe wrote:
> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
> wallet?
>
> -Zilla
>
>

no gotchas - it's very straightforward. a couple of tips though:

1. fit the cylinder dry, then bleed at the brake pipe junctions on the
cylinder before bleeding the rest of the system at the calipers.

2. keep plenty of water handy in case of spillage. never wipe brake
fluid off paintwork, the paint will come off with it. simply wash with
water, then don't touch, even if you're tempted to. and don't spill
water into an open brake reservoir!

as for bleeding kits, don't waste any money on one - use the neighbor
kid to help you, if you don't have one of your own. you're bleeding a
new cylinder, so make sure you bleed properly - get the pedal pressed
all the way to the floor to expel all the air.

"jim beam" > wrote in message
...
> NetDoe wrote:
> > I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
> > straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
> > However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
> > for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
> > wallet?
> >
> > -Zilla
> >
> >
>
> no gotchas - it's very straightforward. a couple of tips though:
>
> 1. fit the cylinder dry, then bleed at the brake pipe junctions on the
> cylinder before bleeding the rest of the system at the calipers.
>
> 2. keep plenty of water handy in case of spillage. never wipe brake
> fluid off paintwork, the paint will come off with it. simply wash with
> water, then don't touch, even if you're tempted to. and don't spill
> water into an open brake reservoir!
>
> as for bleeding kits, don't waste any money on one - use the neighbor
> kid to help you, if you don't have one of your own. you're bleeding a
> new cylinder, so make sure you bleed properly - get the pedal pressed
> all the way to the floor to expel all the air.

Ok thanks. I plan to drape plastic over the left-front fender, just to
protect
against spillage. Also the manual mentions bleeding the ABS modulator.
Is that necessary?

NetDoe wrote:
> "jim beam" > wrote in message
> ...
>> NetDoe wrote:
>>> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
>>> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
>>> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
>>> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
>>> wallet?
>>>
>>> -Zilla
>>>
>>>
>> no gotchas - it's very straightforward. a couple of tips though:
>>
>> 1. fit the cylinder dry, then bleed at the brake pipe junctions on the
>> cylinder before bleeding the rest of the system at the calipers.
>>
>> 2. keep plenty of water handy in case of spillage. never wipe brake
>> fluid off paintwork, the paint will come off with it. simply wash with
>> water, then don't touch, even if you're tempted to. and don't spill
>> water into an open brake reservoir!
>>
>> as for bleeding kits, don't waste any money on one - use the neighbor
>> kid to help you, if you don't have one of your own. you're bleeding a
>> new cylinder, so make sure you bleed properly - get the pedal pressed
>> all the way to the floor to expel all the air.
>
> Ok thanks. I plan to drape plastic over the left-front fender, just to
> protect
> against spillage. Also the manual mentions bleeding the ABS modulator.
> Is that necessary?
>
>

theoretically, yes. but reality is, especially if you bleed at the m/c
first, you can get away without it. [you didn't pay for this advice, so
use it at your own risk!]

"NetDoe" > wrote in news:TaaOj.55430
:

> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
> wallet?
>


You don't need a kit at all, provided you bench bleed first. Do not install
the new MC "dry".

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger wrote:
> "NetDoe" > wrote in news:TaaOj.55430
> :
>
>> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
>> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
>> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
>> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
>> wallet?
>>
>
>
> You don't need a kit at all, provided you bench bleed first. Do not install
> the new MC "dry".
>
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
>
>
>

but if you install "wet", you can get fluid all over the place - your
workbench, not just your car. installing dry, then bleeding at the line
connections ensures that all bleeding is controlled, and minimizes air
that has to be bled through the rest of the system, particularly
relevant for abs.

indeed, i've replaced cylinders like this and not had to do the rest of
the system at all. not standard practice of course, but it is possible
if the brake lines don't empty, and they won't if the caliper bleeds
aren't opened. try it - you'll be pleasantly surprised.

jim beam > wrote in
t:

> Tegger wrote:
>> "NetDoe" > wrote in news:TaaOj.55430
>> :
>>
>>> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
>>> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
>>> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
>>> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
>>> wallet?
>>>
>>
>>
>> You don't need a kit at all, provided you bench bleed first. Do not
>> install the new MC "dry".
>>
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>
> but if you install "wet", you can get fluid all over the place - your
> workbench, not just your car.



Leaks are no problem.

Stuff a couple of golf tees in the holes as you transport the new MC if you
have nothing else to plug them with. Even if the holes are left wide open,
drips are slow and very easily compensated for.

And even if you should get some brake fluid on the paint, it's not like
when they cut off the leg of that critter in the movie "Alien". Brake fluid
takes at least several minutes to damage paint.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger wrote:
> jim beam > wrote in
> t:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> "NetDoe" > wrote in news:TaaOj.55430
>>> :
>>>
>>>> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
>>>> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
>>>> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
>>>> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
>>>> wallet?
>>>>
>>>
>>> You don't need a kit at all, provided you bench bleed first. Do not
>>> install the new MC "dry".
>>>
>>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> but if you install "wet", you can get fluid all over the place - your
>> workbench, not just your car.
>
>
>
> Leaks are no problem.
>
> Stuff a couple of golf tees in the holes as you transport the new MC if you
> have nothing else to plug them with. Even if the holes are left wide open,
> drips are slow and very easily compensated for.
>
> And even if you should get some brake fluid on the paint, it's not like
> when they cut off the leg of that critter in the movie "Alien". Brake fluid
> takes at least several minutes to damage paint.
>
>

installing dry, then bleeding at the line connections is exactly the
same as bleeding on the bench as far as the fluid is concerned. only
it's much more controlled. and you don't lose [use] as much fluid
overall. and there's no worries about any leakage when you're installing.

i've done both, and frankly, bleeding on the bench is a complete waste
of time i'll never bother with ever again.

NetDoe wrote:
> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
> wallet?
>
> -Zilla

-----------------------

Keep some rags in a bucket of warm water to constantly wipe your hands
with and lay damp towels around the area so spills get absorbed, rather
than running down behind somewhere.

'Curly'

"jim beam" > wrote in message
...
> NetDoe wrote:
> > "jim beam" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >> NetDoe wrote:
> >>> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
> >>> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
> >>> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
> >>> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
> >>> wallet?
> >>>
> >>> -Zilla
> >>>
> >>>
> >> no gotchas - it's very straightforward. a couple of tips though:
> >>
> >> 1. fit the cylinder dry, then bleed at the brake pipe junctions on the
> >> cylinder before bleeding the rest of the system at the calipers.
> >>
> >> 2. keep plenty of water handy in case of spillage. never wipe brake
> >> fluid off paintwork, the paint will come off with it. simply wash with
> >> water, then don't touch, even if you're tempted to. and don't spill
> >> water into an open brake reservoir!
> >>
> >> as for bleeding kits, don't waste any money on one - use the neighbor
> >> kid to help you, if you don't have one of your own. you're bleeding a
> >> new cylinder, so make sure you bleed properly - get the pedal pressed
> >> all the way to the floor to expel all the air.
> >
> > Ok thanks. I plan to drape plastic over the left-front fender, just to
> > protect
> > against spillage. Also the manual mentions bleeding the ABS modulator.
> > Is that necessary?
> >
> >
>
> theoretically, yes. but reality is, especially if you bleed at the m/c
> first, you can get away without it. [you didn't pay for this advice, so
> use it at your own risk!]
>

So when you say "especially if you bleed at the m/c
first" you imply bench-bleeding?

Where is the bleeder valve for the ABS modulator, or is it obvious?
My Hanes manual does not show it.