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94 Caravan - fuel pump won't run
The van has been sitting for a while, but started fine 2 weeks ago. A
few days ago it cranked fine, but the fuel pump didn't do the normal 2-second pressure up when the key was first turned on. I can get the fuel pump to run if I jumper the fuel pump relay, so the wiring to the pump and the pump itself seem to be OK. I tried swapping the ASD relay with others (they all have the same PN, and all show the same resistance between the coil terminals), but nothing. I tried jumpering from B+ to the coil +, still nothing. What else can I try? Is there a fuel pressure sensor that thinks the pressure is up, so doesn't tell the pump to run? I don't think it's the Hall effect, since it doesn't come into play until it starts cranking. Thanks KC |
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I forgot to specify engine - it's the 3.0 V6.
KC |
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I forgot to specify engine - it's the 3.0 V6.
KC |
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Daniel J. Stern wrote: > > Remove the 60-pin connector from the SBEC and inspect the pins and sockets > for corrosion; clean the pins by pushing a pencil eraser straight down > onto each pin, and packing the sockets full of Ox-Gard or Noalox. > > Check all of the fusible links carefully; it sounds like one or more of > them may have popped. Of course if this is the case you'll have to find > the cause or the new link will pop, too. > > Check the codes and report what you find. Thanks for the tips, Daniel. I'll try these tonight and hopefully get it going. I wanted to donate it to my church (they in turn donate it to those who need cars but can't afford them), but they won't take it if it isn't running. And since I can't sell it (tried twice, can't even get an offer at $800, and it's in pretty good shape), and it's not doing me any good sitting in my driveway, this seemed like a good option. Just curious - what is it that tells the fuel pump to quit pumping before the engine starts? The pressure regulator only holds the pressure at a certain level and returns the excess back to the tank, right? But that's with the pump running continuously. Something tells it to stop when the key is on but the engine's not running. KC |
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Daniel J. Stern wrote: > > Remove the 60-pin connector from the SBEC and inspect the pins and sockets > for corrosion; clean the pins by pushing a pencil eraser straight down > onto each pin, and packing the sockets full of Ox-Gard or Noalox. > > Check all of the fusible links carefully; it sounds like one or more of > them may have popped. Of course if this is the case you'll have to find > the cause or the new link will pop, too. > > Check the codes and report what you find. Thanks for the tips, Daniel. I'll try these tonight and hopefully get it going. I wanted to donate it to my church (they in turn donate it to those who need cars but can't afford them), but they won't take it if it isn't running. And since I can't sell it (tried twice, can't even get an offer at $800, and it's in pretty good shape), and it's not doing me any good sitting in my driveway, this seemed like a good option. Just curious - what is it that tells the fuel pump to quit pumping before the engine starts? The pressure regulator only holds the pressure at a certain level and returns the excess back to the tank, right? But that's with the pump running continuously. Something tells it to stop when the key is on but the engine's not running. KC |
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Daniel J. Stern wrote:
> > Remove the 60-pin connector from the SBEC and inspect the pins and sockets > for corrosion; clean the pins by pushing a pencil eraser straight down > onto each pin, and packing the sockets full of Ox-Gard or Noalox. > > Check all of the fusible links carefully; it sounds like one or more of > them may have popped. Of course if this is the case you'll have to find > the cause or the new link will pop, too. > > > To check the computer codes: > > With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, > leaving it "ON". Do not > go to "start", just "on" during this procedure. > > Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go > off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored. Update: removed the SBEC connector and cleaned it, didn't see any signs of corrosion. While I had access, I unplugged and replugged all the electrical connectors under the battery. Then put everything back together. Still no fuel pump. Tried to get the codes to flash. Several times. Nothing. Jumpered the fuel pump relay so the pump runs whenever the key is on. Won't start. That indicates to me that there's no spark. Verified that with a timing light. So am I down to fusible links? The only one I saw was one to the alternator, so I must not know where to look. Seems strange that the computer won't blink, though - it should at least give the 55=end of codes, right? I'll go back at it tomorrow, check any fusible links and the wiring to the distributor. KC |
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