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#11
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#12
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you could get a aftermarket coverter for about 250 +labor to weld it in
maxpower wrote: > The honeycomb in the convertor is wrapped with a mesh screen, if that > screen gets worn the honeycomb will rattle within the casing, i would not > run screws thru it, You wont be able to clamp it off or crush the casing to > stop it > "Rick" > wrote in message > ... > > Hi group, > > I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle > at > > idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat > > embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 > to > > replace it. > > The car has 135k miles. I'm not willing to invest that amount in a car > whose > > blue book value is about $3k, and want to get a least another year out of > > it. We really enjoy driving this "classic" car and hate to trade it in. > > There is nothing else wrong with the car. Even the original roof is in > > excellent (some cosmetic marks) condition. > > I'm assuming the guts of the converter have broken loose inside. What if I > > either squeezed it with a c-clamp or drove some stainless deck screws into > > the sides of it. Would that hold it or make it worse? I'm not familiar > with > > this item. Any ideas for a quick fix without breaking any laws? Thanks. > > Rick > > > > |
#13
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you could get a aftermarket coverter for about 250 +labor to weld it in
maxpower wrote: > The honeycomb in the convertor is wrapped with a mesh screen, if that > screen gets worn the honeycomb will rattle within the casing, i would not > run screws thru it, You wont be able to clamp it off or crush the casing to > stop it > "Rick" > wrote in message > ... > > Hi group, > > I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle > at > > idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat > > embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 > to > > replace it. > > The car has 135k miles. I'm not willing to invest that amount in a car > whose > > blue book value is about $3k, and want to get a least another year out of > > it. We really enjoy driving this "classic" car and hate to trade it in. > > There is nothing else wrong with the car. Even the original roof is in > > excellent (some cosmetic marks) condition. > > I'm assuming the guts of the converter have broken loose inside. What if I > > either squeezed it with a c-clamp or drove some stainless deck screws into > > the sides of it. Would that hold it or make it worse? I'm not familiar > with > > this item. Any ideas for a quick fix without breaking any laws? Thanks. > > Rick > > > > |
#14
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New Jersey
Rick "RPhillips47" > wrote in message ... > "Daniel J. Stern" wrote: > >>The shop's probably right about it being the catcon, but $700 sounds like >>the price for a dealer to install a factory catcon. Forget that noise; go >>to a good local independent exhaust shop (stay away from the franchise >>houses -- Midas, Meineke, etc. install ****ty parts using shoddy labor). >>There are fully approved aftermarket catcons that will do just fine and >>you can get one installed at considerably lower cost than $700. > > He didn't say where is is from but if he lives in California, and if his > '96 > has the same system as my T&C (I believe it is the OB II system), he can > only > go to a state approved shop that will charge roughly the same as the > dealer. |
#15
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New Jersey
Rick "RPhillips47" > wrote in message ... > "Daniel J. Stern" wrote: > >>The shop's probably right about it being the catcon, but $700 sounds like >>the price for a dealer to install a factory catcon. Forget that noise; go >>to a good local independent exhaust shop (stay away from the franchise >>houses -- Midas, Meineke, etc. install ****ty parts using shoddy labor). >>There are fully approved aftermarket catcons that will do just fine and >>you can get one installed at considerably lower cost than $700. > > He didn't say where is is from but if he lives in California, and if his > '96 > has the same system as my T&C (I believe it is the OB II system), he can > only > go to a state approved shop that will charge roughly the same as the > dealer. |
#16
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Good idea. But the dealer checked and said it was the converter. I could get
a second opinion, maybe get a gas station to lift it and check myself. Rick "Alex Rodriguez" > wrote in message ... > In article >, > says... >>Hi group, >>I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle >>at >>idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat >>embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 >>to >>replace it. > > I would check this myself and make sure it is the cat con and not just the > heat shield that is rattling. The heat shield is cheap and easy to fix, > the > cat con is more expensive and requires more labor. > -------------- > Alex > > |
#17
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Good idea. But the dealer checked and said it was the converter. I could get
a second opinion, maybe get a gas station to lift it and check myself. Rick "Alex Rodriguez" > wrote in message ... > In article >, > says... >>Hi group, >>I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle >>at >>idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat >>embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 >>to >>replace it. > > I would check this myself and make sure it is the cat con and not just the > heat shield that is rattling. The heat shield is cheap and easy to fix, > the > cat con is more expensive and requires more labor. > -------------- > Alex > > |
#18
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If, as seems to be the case, you're trying to minimize car repair and
upkeep costs, why on earth are you taking it to a *dealer* for repair?! On Tue, 21 Dec 2004, Rick wrote: > Good idea. But the dealer checked and said it was the converter. I could get > a second opinion, maybe get a gas station to lift it and check myself. > Rick > > "Alex Rodriguez" > wrote in message > ... > > In article >, > > says... > >>Hi group, > >>I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle > >>at > >>idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat > >>embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 > >>to > >>replace it. > > > > I would check this myself and make sure it is the cat con and not just the > > heat shield that is rattling. The heat shield is cheap and easy to fix, > > the > > cat con is more expensive and requires more labor. > > -------------- > > Alex > > > > > > > |
#19
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If, as seems to be the case, you're trying to minimize car repair and
upkeep costs, why on earth are you taking it to a *dealer* for repair?! On Tue, 21 Dec 2004, Rick wrote: > Good idea. But the dealer checked and said it was the converter. I could get > a second opinion, maybe get a gas station to lift it and check myself. > Rick > > "Alex Rodriguez" > wrote in message > ... > > In article >, > > says... > >>Hi group, > >>I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle > >>at > >>idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat > >>embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 > >>to > >>replace it. > > > > I would check this myself and make sure it is the cat con and not just the > > heat shield that is rattling. The heat shield is cheap and easy to fix, > > the > > cat con is more expensive and requires more labor. > > -------------- > > Alex > > > > > > > |
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