If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
1996 EVO M3 UK 118,000 miles.
Normally, when the door is shut, the glass window raises a little to effect the airlcok and when the door opens, it lowers itself an inch or so. This is for airtight locking of doors, I presume. My passenger side window stopped doing this suddenly. The electric controls work normally and I can raise or lower thw windows with the press of a button but the window doesn't raise itsefl that last inch to effect the airlock. At motorway speed, there is the whining air noise. The driver side window works fine. Anythoughts as to what can be wrong and if it will be expensive to fix? TIA Vijay. |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
I'm no expert, actually, I'm new to this group since I'm a recent BMW owner.
But I can give you my thoughts on this issue. My son has the same car ('99 M3 coupe). I assume that since the window raises and lowers with the switch that the motor is good. Unless there's a separate circuit on the motor dedicated for locking the window. On the other hand, there must be some type of switch or sensor that can tell when the door is completetly closed and commands the window motor to further close up. I would suspect that this is the problem, but without looking at the schematics it's only a guess. good luck... and if you find what's the culprit let me know. "Vijay" > wrote in message ups.com... > 1996 EVO M3 UK 118,000 miles. > > Normally, when the door is shut, the glass window raises a little to > effect the airlcok and when the door opens, it lowers itself an inch or > so. This is for airtight locking of doors, I presume. > > My passenger side window stopped doing this suddenly. The electric > controls work normally and I can raise or lower thw windows with the > press of a button but the window doesn't raise itsefl that last inch to > effect the airlock. At motorway speed, there is the whining air noise. > The driver side window works fine. > > Anythoughts as to what can be wrong and if it will be expensive to fix? > > TIA > > Vijay. > |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
You are spot on Hector. On the door sill, where the door lock latches,
there is a switch you can press in. My functioning window glass moves the inch up and down when you press it with the door open. It doesn't do this on the affected side. Obviously, there is some sort of a sensor that isn't working. I am going to take it to a BMW garage (an independent one) to have the estimate. I guess the whole unit housing will need o be replaced. I will let the group know about the damage! Thanks, Vijay Hector wrote: > I'm no expert, actually, I'm new to this group since I'm a recent BMW owner. > But I can give you my thoughts on this issue. My son has the same car ('99 > M3 coupe). > > I assume that since the window raises and lowers with the switch that the > motor is good. Unless there's a separate circuit on the motor dedicated for > locking the window. On the other hand, there must be some type of switch or > sensor that can tell when the door is completetly closed and commands the > window motor to further close up. I would suspect that this is the problem, > but without looking at the schematics it's only a guess. > > good luck... and if you find what's the culprit let me know. > > > > "Vijay" > wrote in message > ups.com... > > 1996 EVO M3 UK 118,000 miles. > > > > Normally, when the door is shut, the glass window raises a little to > > effect the airlcok and when the door opens, it lowers itself an inch or > > so. This is for airtight locking of doors, I presume. > > > > My passenger side window stopped doing this suddenly. The electric > > controls work normally and I can raise or lower thw windows with the > > press of a button but the window doesn't raise itsefl that last inch to > > effect the airlock. At motorway speed, there is the whining air noise. > > The driver side window works fine. > > > > Anythoughts as to what can be wrong and if it will be expensive to fix? > > > > TIA > > > > Vijay. > > |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
Vijay wrote:
> You are spot on Hector. On the door sill, where the door lock latches, > there is a switch you can press in. My functioning window glass moves > the inch up and down when you press it with the door open. It doesn't > do this on the affected side. Obviously, there is some sort of a sensor > that isn't working. I am going to take it to a BMW garage (an > independent one) to have the estimate. I guess the whole unit housing > will need o be replaced. I will let the group know about the damage! You might try resetting the window top-position switch. Key on - press the window button UP and hold it there for 60 seconds or so. If the door switch isn't working - it will also have this effect. Do you hear a click (audible even to my deaf ears) when you press the button in by hand (you can do this with one finger inside the post on the latch receiver assembly..) No click = bad switch. Easy DIY once you buy the correct torx(tm) drive bits to remove the latch receiver (mark it first so you get it back in the same position..) And once you do replace it - keep the switch greased. No grease is why they wear out. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
admin wrote: > > You might try resetting the window top-position switch. Key on - press > the window button UP and hold it there for 60 seconds or so. Thanks admin.This didn't work. I kept the UP button pressed for a minute or so. Nothing. The window didn't move at all! > > If the door switch isn't working - it will also have this effect. Do you > hear a click (audible even to my deaf ears) when you press the button in > by hand (you can do this with one finger inside the post on the latch > receiver assembly..) No click = bad switch. Easy DIY once you buy the > correct torx(tm) drive bits to remove the latch receiver (mark it first > so you get it back in the same position..) > I do hear a click. Whereas on the good side, it is accompanied by the window glass moving up and down, it doesn't do the same on the bad side. The click is there though. I wasn't clear from your post whether this means the switch is good and if so, what does one do next? Thanks much. Vijay |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
This is the switch in the door, there is a small black switch in the door
pillar in the locking mechanism, often the interior light will be on saying the door is open too. If you look at it you can see it, it's quite obvious. Simply take this off and when you unplug it the window should raise up to the locked position automatically, as it's set to go all the way up if there is no switch. Be careful when removing the switch from the door, as there is a metal bracket which it bolts to. Remove ONE bolt, there are torx bolts by the way, then rotate the switch a little then reinsert the bolt to hold the bracket, then do the same with the other.. Disconnect the cable (door window should go up), usually the switch is fine, simply clean it up well and clean the contacts on the cables, then reconnect and try pressing the switch. If the window goes up when depressed and down when not then it's fine. Simply put back together.. Might be a good idea to seal up the switch too with some grease to stop water getting in. I had the same problem with my 1996 coupe, it's common, often the switch doesn't fail it just needs cleaning (they are about £10 anyway). Make sure you clean it thoroughly, or it'll just start playing up again in a week or so. I cleaned mine 3 times, as it kept re-occuring, but now it's been months since I've had this problem. I hope all that helps you. Cheers Craig |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
Sorry.. EDIT... not in the door.. in the door PILLAR.. just read it back..
"C.Read" > wrote in message ... > This is the switch in the door, there is a small black switch in the door > pillar in the locking mechanism, often the interior light will be on > saying the door is open too. If you look at it you can see it, it's quite > obvious. Simply take this off and when you unplug it the window should > raise up to the locked position automatically, as it's set to go all the > way up if there is no switch. Be careful when removing the switch from > the door, as there is a metal bracket which it bolts to. > > Remove ONE bolt, there are torx bolts by the way, then rotate the switch a > little then reinsert the bolt to hold the bracket, then do the same with > the other.. Disconnect the cable (door window should go up), usually the > switch is fine, simply clean it up well and clean the contacts on the > cables, then reconnect and try pressing the switch. If the window goes up > when depressed and down when not then it's fine. Simply put back > together.. Might be a good idea to seal up the switch too with some grease > to stop water getting in. > > I had the same problem with my 1996 coupe, it's common, often the switch > doesn't fail it just needs cleaning (they are about £10 anyway). Make > sure you clean it thoroughly, or it'll just start playing up again in a > week or so. I cleaned mine 3 times, as it kept re-occuring, but now it's > been months since I've had this problem. > > I hope all that helps you. > > Cheers > > Craig > |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
Sorry EDIT, this is in the door PILLAR not in the door..
Apologies for Vjay I accidentally mailed this edit to him.. "C.Read" > wrote in message ... > This is the switch in the door, there is a small black switch in the door > pillar in the locking mechanism, often the interior light will be on > saying the door is open too. If you look at it you can see it, it's quite > obvious. Simply take this off and when you unplug it the window should > raise up to the locked position automatically, as it's set to go all the > way up if there is no switch. Be careful when removing the switch from > the door, as there is a metal bracket which it bolts to. > > Remove ONE bolt, there are torx bolts by the way, then rotate the switch a > little then reinsert the bolt to hold the bracket, then do the same with > the other.. Disconnect the cable (door window should go up), usually the > switch is fine, simply clean it up well and clean the contacts on the > cables, then reconnect and try pressing the switch. If the window goes up > when depressed and down when not then it's fine. Simply put back > together.. Might be a good idea to seal up the switch too with some grease > to stop water getting in. > > I had the same problem with my 1996 coupe, it's common, often the switch > doesn't fail it just needs cleaning (they are about £10 anyway). Make > sure you clean it thoroughly, or it'll just start playing up again in a > week or so. I cleaned mine 3 times, as it kept re-occuring, but now it's > been months since I've had this problem. > > I hope all that helps you. > > Cheers > > Craig > |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
Thanks Craig. It seems a little too technical to a luddite like me. I
did take it to a BMW franchise dealership to-day and they gave me an estimate of £47.00 all inclusive. I didn't think it was too bad. Nevertheless, I shall try out your suggestion (although I have a feeling I may not have the requisite tools) first. Thanks much, Vijay C.Read wrote: > Sorry.. EDIT... not in the door.. in the door PILLAR.. just read it back.. > > "C.Read" > wrote in message > ... > > This is the switch in the door, there is a small black switch in the door > > pillar in the locking mechanism, often the interior light will be on > > saying the door is open too. If you look at it you can see it, it's quite > > obvious. Simply take this off and when you unplug it the window should > > raise up to the locked position automatically, as it's set to go all the > > way up if there is no switch. Be careful when removing the switch from > > the door, as there is a metal bracket which it bolts to. > > > > Remove ONE bolt, there are torx bolts by the way, then rotate the switch a > > little then reinsert the bolt to hold the bracket, then do the same with > > the other.. Disconnect the cable (door window should go up), usually the > > switch is fine, simply clean it up well and clean the contacts on the > > cables, then reconnect and try pressing the switch. If the window goes up > > when depressed and down when not then it's fine. Simply put back > > together.. Might be a good idea to seal up the switch too with some grease > > to stop water getting in. > > > > I had the same problem with my 1996 coupe, it's common, often the switch > > doesn't fail it just needs cleaning (they are about £10 anyway). Make > > sure you clean it thoroughly, or it'll just start playing up again in a > > week or so. I cleaned mine 3 times, as it kept re-occuring, but now it's > > been months since I've had this problem. > > > > I hope all that helps you. > > > > Cheers > > > > Craig > > |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
electric window problem
UPDATE:
Craig: I printed your post and did what you suggested. Removed the plate, unplugged the cable from the switch, and nothing happened. If I read your post correctly, the window should have one up to the top position. I plugged and unplugged the cable a few times without any movement from the window. I have put everything back together the way it was. I have the week-end free, so any other thoughts? By the way, I couldn't unplug the cable without removing both bolts. I just couldn't access the cable without removing both bolts completely. Did I miss something from your post? It was a bummer getting the inner plate in position to put the screws back in. The TORX seems like a US term. In UK, Halfords told me, these are called star head screwdrivers (and bolts) Vijay C.Read wrote: > This is the switch in the door, there is a small black switch in the door > pillar in the locking mechanism, often the interior light will be on saying > the door is open too. If you look at it you can see it, it's quite obvious. > Simply take this off and when you unplug it the window should raise up to > the locked position automatically, as it's set to go all the way up if there > is no switch. Be careful when removing the switch from the door, as there > is a metal bracket which it bolts to. > > Remove ONE bolt, there are torx bolts by the way, then rotate the switch a > little then reinsert the bolt to hold the bracket, then do the same with the > other.. Disconnect the cable (door window should go up), usually the switch > is fine, simply clean it up well and clean the contacts on the cables, then > reconnect and try pressing the switch. If the window goes up when depressed > and down when not then it's fine. Simply put back together.. Might be a > good idea to seal up the switch too with some grease to stop water getting > in. > > I had the same problem with my 1996 coupe, it's common, often the switch > doesn't fail it just needs cleaning (they are about £10 anyway). Make sure > you clean it thoroughly, or it'll just start playing up again in a week or > so. I cleaned mine 3 times, as it kept re-occuring, but now it's been > months since I've had this problem. > > I hope all that helps you. > > Cheers > > Craig |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Check This Out: Electric Vehicle Production | [email protected] | General | 0 | July 31st 06 02:00 PM |
Window Tint Problem | Mike Surwill | Saturn | 8 | February 14th 06 06:29 PM |
2001 Grand Caravan Window problem HELP | Bill | Dodge | 5 | February 1st 06 01:34 AM |
Can't close electric window on '93 E36 - help | Spack | BMW | 1 | December 14th 05 08:42 PM |
Alfa 164 Electric Window problem | Emjay | Alfa Romeo | 2 | July 13th 04 12:42 AM |