Dodge Intrepid 3.2L low oil pressure light

Greg Houston wrote:

> Bill Putney wrote:

>>Greg - I'm surprised to find that water could make it come on (due to
>>the current needed to light the bulb and no close direct path to ground)
>>- others, including Glenn I think, have told me that could happen, but
>>I've always been skeptical. I guess it's time to start believing it.
>>You do say it only comes on very dimly, so I can save face.
>
>
> Well, the oil light is a nice energy efficient LED, so it probably doesn't take
> much juice at all to make it light up a little. If it was a bulb, I"ll bet I
> never would have seen anything.

Well DUH!! (That's sarcasm aimed at myself - not at you.) That would
explain it (LED draws less than 10mA - probably under 5mA - for dim
lighting).

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

Nate Nagel wrote:

> Are you sure that the switch is bad and it's not just shorting the
> terminal to ground through the water that's splashed on it?...

Greg acknowledged that and realizes that replacing the switch is not
necessary, but he's doing it anyway.

> ...Try some
> dielectric grease on the connector and see if that doesn't make the
> problem go away.
>
> good luck
>
> nate

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

maxpower wrote:

> It is normally vented, I didnt know that untill I researched it this
> morning. And the purpose of the TSB was to allow for the vent.

That puzzled me until I read your later post.

This appears to be the sum of the matter:
(1) The connector comes vented from the factory on all except the
'98/'99 2.7L.
(2) All 3.2/3.5 regardless of year come from the factory already vented.
(3) The TSB (removing the rubber seal from the 2nd (unused) connector
wire hole and replacing with a regular wire and terminal to act as a
vent) only applies to the '98/'99 2.7.
(4) The vent wire added according to the TSB is the same as what comes
from the factory on the 3.2.

Is that correct?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

Bill Putney wrote:
> Greg Houston wrote:
>
>> Bill Putney wrote:
>
>>> Greg - I'm surprised to find that water could make it come on (due to
>>> the current needed to light the bulb and no close direct path to ground)
>>> - others, including Glenn I think, have told me that could happen, but
>>> I've always been skeptical. I guess it's time to start believing it.
>>> You do say it only comes on very dimly, so I can save face.
>>
>>
>> Well, the oil light is a nice energy efficient LED, so it probably
>> doesn't take
>> much juice at all to make it light up a little. If it was a bulb,
>> I"ll bet I
>> never would have seen anything.
>
> Well DUH!! (That's sarcasm aimed at myself - not at you.) That would
> explain it (LED draws less than 10mA - probably under 5mA - for dim
> lighting).

Hi...

Hold on a minute before you sarcasize (what? yourself, Bill.

I'd respectfully suggest a second opinion, or another examination
to insure that it really is a led first.

It's very difficult to make a led glow dimly. Once it reaches
breakdown and triggers, it's on sufficiently bright that I doubt
the OP would call it dim.

It can be dimmed a little by first triggering it, and then reducing
the voltage a little, but first must be bright for at least a
millisecond, but it's real hard to hold it there.

Take care.

Ken

"Bill Putney" > wrote in message
...
> maxpower wrote:
>
> > It is normally vented, I didnt know that untill I researched it this
> > morning. And the purpose of the TSB was to allow for the vent.
>
> That puzzled me until I read your later post.
>
> This appears to be the sum of the matter:
> (1) The connector comes vented from the factory on all except the
> '98/'99 2.7L.

It does not apply to the 2000 and newer model Because the issue was
fixed after and vents were built into the connector. But if the vent get
stoped up the problem could still occur on all years
> (2) All 3.2/3.5 regardless of year come from the factory already vented.

It is the same set up and the problem occurs on all applications including
the 4 cylinders, 3.3 and 3.8 6cly engine


> (3) The TSB (removing the rubber seal from the 2nd (unused) connector
> wire hole and replacing with a regular wire and terminal to act as a
> vent) only applies to the '98/'99 2.7.

The TSB adds a terminal/wire vent to the connector on the effected years. (I
always remove the seal from the connector)

> (4) The vent wire added according to the TSB is the same as what comes
> from the factory on the 3.2.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')

teflon tape is the only seal

Greg Houston wrote:

> Greg Houston wrote:
>
> > I was less than a mile from home when I happened to notice that my oil
> > pressure light was on, dimly. I'm not sure how long the light was on
> > before I caught it, but I'd guess not long at all. There was no audible
> > chime, perhaps the light is controlled by the sensor directly, not
> > through the BCM. I stopped with the intent to check the oil level and
> > perhaps add some. It was nightime and raining, so I didn't get too far.
> > Naturally I was without both my flashlight and phone.
> >
> > -[snippped]-
> >
> > It was pretty wet out, is it possible this could cause the light to come
> > on dimly?
>
> Update: After several weeks of happily driving without an oil pressure
> light, it happened again. It had been raining heavily and I thought I saw
> the light on very dimly near the beginning of my drive, but then I didn't
> see it again...until....
>
> I hit a puddle on the left side, I heard the splash of water spray from the
> wheels and simultaneously the oil light came on, not as dim as it had been
> before, but still dimmer than when the key is in the OFF position.
>
> So that all but confirms the problem is caused by water. I recently bought
> a MOPAR oil pressure switch for about 12 bucks part # 4608303AB. I plan to
> change it at my next oil change, expected later this month. Of course
> perhaps the problem is not at the pressure switch, but I think that's a
> pretty good guess, especially given its very low location on the 3.2 L
> engine. Question: when I replace the switch do I reuse a rubber seal?
> The switch just has a connector, no seal, I'm not sure what the other pieces
> look like until I get under the car.
>
> Thanks to all who responded, especially Bill and Glenn.

maxpower wrote:

> "Greg Houston" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> >
> > maxpower wrote:
> >
> > > "Greg Houston" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > Greg Houston wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I was less than a mile from home when I happened to notice that my
> oil
> > > > > pressure light was on, dimly. I'm not sure how long the light was
> on
> > > > > before I caught it, but I'd guess not long at all. There was no
> audible
> > > > > chime, perhaps the light is controlled by the sensor directly, not
> > > > > through the BCM. I stopped with the intent to check the oil level
> and
> > > > > perhaps add some. It was nightime and raining, so I didn't get too
> far.
> > > > > Naturally I was without both my flashlight and phone.
> > > > >
> > > > > -[snippped]-
> > > > >
> > > > > It was pretty wet out, is it possible this could cause the light to
> come
> > > > > on dimly?
> > > >
> > > > Update: After several weeks of happily driving without an oil
> pressure
> > > > light, it happened again. It had been raining heavily and I thought I
> saw
> > > > the light on very dimly near the beginning of my drive, but then I
> didn't
> > > > see it again...until....
> > > >
> > > > I hit a puddle on the left side, I heard the splash of water spray
> from
> > > the
> > > > wheels and simultaneously the oil light came on, not as dim as it had
> been
> > > > before, but still dimmer than when the key is in the OFF position.
> > > >
> > > > So that all but confirms the problem is caused by water. I recently
> > > bought
> > > > a MOPAR oil pressure switch for about 12 bucks part # 4608303AB. I
> plan
> > > to
> > > > change it at my next oil change, expected later this month. Of course
> > > > perhaps the problem is not at the pressure switch, but I think that's
> a
> > > > pretty good guess, especially given its very low location on the 3.2 L
> > > > engine. Question: when I replace the switch do I reuse a rubber
> seal?
> > > > The switch just has a connector, no seal, I'm not sure what the other
> > > pieces
> > > > look like until I get under the car.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks to all who responded, especially Bill and Glenn.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > The oil switch is actually a pressure transducer, but in order for the
> > > switch to work properly it must be vented to atmosphere. The problem is
> when
> > > the vent of the switch gets plugs with dirt or any other contaminates
> such
> > > as oil from the leaking switch. the operation of the switch is altered
> > > because the switch cannot compare the outside air pressure to the oil
> > > pressure created by the engine. clean out the harness end of the switch
> > > thoroughly, I always disassemble the connector and remove the rubber
> seal or
> > > just pull it back. There was a TSB on this back for the 1999 LH to do
> this
> > > plus to add a wire terminal vent.. Do this and your problem will be
> gone..
> >
> > Thanks! The TSB I have for the wire terminal vent says it only applies to
> 2.7L
> > engines though. I have the 3.2L. From what I understand the location of
> the
> > switch in the 2.7L is what makes the vent necessary.
> >
> The TSB applies to 1998 and 99 vehicles that use the one wire oil lite
> system. and this includes the 2.7./ 3.2 The newer ones have had that vent
> installed already. If the newer models get plugged from oil,or dirt or
> whatever a cleaning is all that is needed along with replacing of the switch
> that is leaking.

Hmm. Which TSB are you referring to? The one I'm looking at is 08-36-99
"Engine Oil Pressure Light Flicker", a copy of which may be found online here
(jpeg)
http://mytsb.bravehost.com/ It describes adding the terminal wire/vent to the
oil pressure switch. This one is pretty clear that it only concerns the 2.7L
engine, and it didn't even appear for TSBs applicable for my 3.2L.


> Just curious how many LH's do you have?

I have one LH car, a '99 Intrepid ES with 3.2 Liter engine.

"Greg Houston" > wrote in message
...
> maxpower wrote:
>
> > "Greg Houston" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > >
> > >
> > > maxpower wrote:
> > >
> > > > "Greg Houston" > wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > > Greg Houston wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > I was less than a mile from home when I happened to notice that
my
> > oil
> > > > > > pressure light was on, dimly. I'm not sure how long the light
was
> > on
> > > > > > before I caught it, but I'd guess not long at all. There was no
> > audible
> > > > > > chime, perhaps the light is controlled by the sensor directly,
not
> > > > > > through the BCM. I stopped with the intent to check the oil
level
> > and
> > > > > > perhaps add some. It was nightime and raining, so I didn't get
too
> > far.
> > > > > > Naturally I was without both my flashlight and phone.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -[snippped]-
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It was pretty wet out, is it possible this could cause the light
to
> > come
> > > > > > on dimly?
> > > > >
> > > > > Update: After several weeks of happily driving without an oil
> > pressure
> > > > > light, it happened again. It had been raining heavily and I
thought I
> > saw
> > > > > the light on very dimly near the beginning of my drive, but then I
> > didn't
> > > > > see it again...until....
> > > > >
> > > > > I hit a puddle on the left side, I heard the splash of water spray
> > from
> > > > the
> > > > > wheels and simultaneously the oil light came on, not as dim as it
had
> > been
> > > > > before, but still dimmer than when the key is in the OFF position.
> > > > >
> > > > > So that all but confirms the problem is caused by water. I
recently
> > > > bought
> > > > > a MOPAR oil pressure switch for about 12 bucks part # 4608303AB.
I
> > plan
> > > > to
> > > > > change it at my next oil change, expected later this month. Of
course
> > > > > perhaps the problem is not at the pressure switch, but I think
that's
> > a
> > > > > pretty good guess, especially given its very low location on the
3.2 L
> > > > > engine. Question: when I replace the switch do I reuse a rubber
> > seal?
> > > > > The switch just has a connector, no seal, I'm not sure what the
other
> > > > pieces
> > > > > look like until I get under the car.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks to all who responded, especially Bill and Glenn.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > The oil switch is actually a pressure transducer, but in order for
the
> > > > switch to work properly it must be vented to atmosphere. The problem
is
> > when
> > > > the vent of the switch gets plugs with dirt or any other
contaminates
> > such
> > > > as oil from the leaking switch. the operation of the switch is
altered
> > > > because the switch cannot compare the outside air pressure to the
oil
> > > > pressure created by the engine. clean out the harness end of the
switch
> > > > thoroughly, I always disassemble the connector and remove the rubber
> > seal or
> > > > just pull it back. There was a TSB on this back for the 1999 LH to
do
> > this
> > > > plus to add a wire terminal vent.. Do this and your problem will be
> > gone..
> > >
> > > Thanks! The TSB I have for the wire terminal vent says it only
applies to
> > 2.7L
> > > engines though. I have the 3.2L. From what I understand the location
of
> > the
> > > switch in the 2.7L is what makes the vent necessary.
> > >
> > The TSB applies to 1998 and 99 vehicles that use the one wire oil lite
> > system. and this includes the 2.7./ 3.2 The newer ones have had that
vent
> > installed already. If the newer models get plugged from oil,or dirt or
> > whatever a cleaning is all that is needed along with replacing of the
switch
> > that is leaking.
>
> Hmm. Which TSB are you referring to? The one I'm looking at is 08-36-99
> "Engine Oil Pressure Light Flicker", a copy of which may be found online
here
> (jpeg)
> http://mytsb.bravehost.com/ It describes adding the terminal wire/vent
to the
> oil pressure switch. This one is pretty clear that it only concerns the
2.7L
> engine, and it didn't even appear for TSBs applicable for my 3.2L.
>
>
> > Just curious how many LH's do you have?
>
> I have one LH car, a '99 Intrepid ES with 3.2 Liter engine.
>
Just forget it.....replace the switch, clean the connector and be on the way

philthy wrote:

> teflon tape is the only seal


He's talking about the rubber seal that blocks the unused wire hole
built into the connector.


> Greg Houston wrote:
>
>
>>Greg Houston wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I was less than a mile from home when I happened to notice that my oil
>>>pressure light was on, dimly. I'm not sure how long the light was on
>>>before I caught it, but I'd guess not long at all. There was no audible
>>>chime, perhaps the light is controlled by the sensor directly, not
>>>through the BCM. I stopped with the intent to check the oil level and
>>>perhaps add some. It was nightime and raining, so I didn't get too far.
>>> Naturally I was without both my flashlight and phone.
>>>
>>> -[snippped]-
>>>
>>>It was pretty wet out, is it possible this could cause the light to come
>>>on dimly?
>>
>>Update: After several weeks of happily driving without an oil pressure
>>light, it happened again. It had been raining heavily and I thought I saw
>>the light on very dimly near the beginning of my drive, but then I didn't
>>see it again...until....
>>
>>I hit a puddle on the left side, I heard the splash of water spray from the
>>wheels and simultaneously the oil light came on, not as dim as it had been
>>before, but still dimmer than when the key is in the OFF position.
>>
>>So that all but confirms the problem is caused by water. I recently bought
>>a MOPAR oil pressure switch for about 12 bucks part # 4608303AB. I plan to
>>change it at my next oil change, expected later this month. Of course
>>perhaps the problem is not at the pressure switch, but I think that's a
>>pretty good guess, especially given its very low location on the 3.2 L
>>engine. Question: when I replace the switch do I reuse a rubber seal?
>>The switch just has a connector, no seal, I'm not sure what the other pieces
>>look like until I get under the car.
>>
>>Thanks to all who responded, especially Bill and Glenn.
>
>


--
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

Ken Weitzel wrote:

> ...It's very difficult to make a led glow dimly. Once it reaches
> breakdown and triggers, it's on sufficiently bright that I doubt
> the OP would call it dim.

Hmmm - that's not the way LED's work. LED's can be made to be as bright
or as dim as you want them as long as they are seeing their forward
conduction voltage - you can vary brightness with a variable resistor,
adjusting it back and forth in a continuum of brightness with no
hysteresis - a potentiometer something on the order of 10k ohm
configured as a variable resistor would illustrate this. They don't
experience breakdown with huge hysteresis like a flash lamp or neon bulb
where it takes more voltage to start it (initial ionization potential)
than it does to maintain it. A relatively high resistance drain to
ground would do it.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')