Engine removal on 75 non-super

Hi
I am new to VW since we were recently given a 75 non-super that my son
and I are looking to restore.

At this point, we'd like to remove the engine. We have the bugme tapes
(a great resource, btw) and several manuals.
I think I can see the bolt on the passenger top side of the engine. Do
I unbolt this one from the engine or transmission side?

Where is the other nut/bolt located? I understand that it is near the
clutch cable, but am having a hard time finding it. This one is on the
transmission side, right?

Are these top fasterners bolt or nuts? If they are bolts, do they bolt
into a nut on the other side or into the block? Also, after I get the
engine out, how to I get these bolts back in? (it seems these top bolts
are really tough - or are they captive, somehow).


Thanks!
Remco

I think I just found an answer to my question:
http://www.geocities.com/bugfuel/pull_it.html
Just posting it, in case anyone else ever needs it.

Remco

Remco wrote:
> Hi
> I am new to VW since we were recently given a 75 non-super that my son
> and I are looking to restore.
>
> At this point, we'd like to remove the engine. We have the bugme tapes
> (a great resource, btw) and several manuals.
> I think I can see the bolt on the passenger top side of the engine. Do
> I unbolt this one from the engine or transmission side?
>
> Where is the other nut/bolt located? I understand that it is near the
> clutch cable, but am having a hard time finding it. This one is on the
> transmission side, right?
>
> Are these top fasterners bolt or nuts? If they are bolts, do they bolt
> into a nut on the other side or into the block? Also, after I get the
> engine out, how to I get these bolts back in? (it seems these top bolts
> are really tough - or are they captive, somehow).
>
>
> Thanks!
> Remco
>

Super/Non-Super all same back there.

Passenger side is a 17mm nut on the engine side. The bolt is captive
(kinda) by the starter motor. Use a 17mm box wrench, not socket.

Driver side is a bolt which you get with a 17mm socket from the
tranny side. Use an extension on the socket and a long breaker bar.
There is no nut; it threads into the engine case.

Assuming this engine is stock, it is fuel injected. That means there
are *TWO* fuel lines which must be pinched off. And, since those
lines plus ALL the fuel lines on the engine (injectors) are over
a qtr-century old, they are due for replacement. The FI runs at
~ 30 PSI and a leaking hose is an invitation to a fire.

Get a box of little paper tags. Tag *everything* you take off in the
engine: wires, hoses, plugs, etc. so they can go back the right way.
The FI rubber hoses often develop tiny leaks/cracks or don't seal
to the fittings; the engine won't run right with leaks.

Strongly recommend buying the Bentley Official Manual for '70 thru
'79.


Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Remco wrote:
>
> I think I just found an answer to my question:
> http://www.geocities.com/bugfuel/pull_it.html
> Just posting it, in case anyone else ever needs it.
>
> Remco



heh heh, you're welcome.. you found my site

Jan

Thanks, Jan -- I especially like that trick getting it out the side. My
jack would need blocks to get it hight enough to get it out the back.
Now I don't need to worry about it. (wonder why no manual ever picked
up on that one!!)
Thanks again
Remco

Hi Jim

Thanks for that clarification -- I was wondering how in the world I'd
ever get that nut on the left side back on if the bolt wasn't semi
captive. I suspect it will still be a character building exersise to
put that nut back on, no?

Appreciate the warning regarding the fuel lines. I took the tank out to
clean it and will definitely replace the lines because they are very
brittle. What sort of lines would you recommend? I take it to use
braided stuff, but metal braid also exists or is that overkill?

Yup-- used my digital camera to take pictures of all connections. First
wrote on the tag what they were and where they went and took a picture
of both ends.
Since it may take a little while before the engine is back in (bug
needs bodywork) and I am having more senior than junior moments, I
thought that would be a good idea. Your point is well taken, though.

I recently received the official VW beetle manual. It is very detailed,
but it doesn't have an index (which is just plain weird). Is the
Bentley manual better manuals or possibly CDs out there?
Thanks for all the help.
Remco

Remco wrote:
>
> Thanks, Jan -- I especially like that trick getting it out the side. My
> jack would need blocks to get it hight enough to get it out the back.
> Now I don't need to worry about it. (wonder why no manual ever picked
> up on that one!!)
> Thanks again
> Remco


If you have any questions later on, feel free to email me.


Jan

Remco wrote:
> Hi Jim
>
> Thanks for that clarification -- I was wondering how in the world I'd
> ever get that nut on the left side back on if the bolt wasn't semi
> captive. I suspect it will still be a character building exersise to
> put that nut back on, no?
>
> Appreciate the warning regarding the fuel lines. I took the tank out
> to clean it and will definitely replace the lines because they are
> very brittle. What sort of lines would you recommend? I take it to use
> braided stuff, but metal braid also exists or is that overkill?
>
> Yup-- used my digital camera to take pictures of all connections.
> First wrote on the tag what they were and where they went and took a
> picture of both ends.
> Since it may take a little while before the engine is back in (bug
> needs bodywork) and I am having more senior than junior moments, I
> thought that would be a good idea. Your point is well taken, though.
>
> I recently received the official VW beetle manual. It is very
> detailed, but it doesn't have an index (which is just plain weird).
> Is the Bentley manual better manuals or possibly CDs out there?
> Thanks for all the help.
> Remco

Use German clothed fuel line, the metal braded ones are for show or Racing
only...

J.

Try www.aircooled.net

In article .com>,
"Remco" > wrote:

> I was wondering how in the world I'd
> ever get that nut on the left side back on if the bolt wasn't semi
> captive. I suspect it will still be a character building exersise to
> put that nut back on, no?

Doesn't John Muir say to clamp a vice grip on it so that it doesn't
spin? It's been a long time since I pulled my motor... about 1977?

--
___
|___| '61 - VW
(o\_|_/o) Bug! ALEA -- 35.9 BHP and not a bit more!
_U_____U_

Red Bug wrote:

> In article .com>,
> "Remco" > wrote:
>
>
>>I was wondering how in the world I'd
>>ever get that nut on the left side back on if the bolt wasn't semi
>>captive. I suspect it will still be a character building exersise to
>>put that nut back on, no?
>
>
> Doesn't John Muir say to clamp a vice grip on it so that it doesn't
> spin? It's been a long time since I pulled my motor... about 1977?
>

Later engines use a "D" shaped bolt head so it won't spin.
But you sometimes need a glob of chewing gum to keep the
bolt from backing out.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/