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#1
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Brake lights
Hello,
The Brake lights on my '70 Bus (daily driver 70mi/day) work, but only if I depress the pedal pretty hard. I replaced the front pads in May and bled the system at the same time. Have readjusted all brakepads almost two months ago. The pedal feels nice and firm, no pumping required. The problem is I drive home from work when its dark, the lights work fine, the brakes light up with a slight delay and only with pressure enough to make the car almost stop, not just slow down a bit. Any Ideas would be appreciated! |
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#2
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Hi
Got the same problem with my 68 bus ( daily driver ). Fist thing I will try is the brake light switch. Did one on a bug, it fitted on to the master cylinder. My guess it will be similar. Rich Busdriver wrote: > Hello, > > The Brake lights on my '70 Bus (daily driver 70mi/day) work, but only if I > depress the pedal pretty hard. > I replaced the front pads in May and bled the system at the same time. > Have readjusted all brakepads almost two months ago. The pedal feels nice > and firm, no pumping required. The problem is I drive home from work when > its dark, the lights work fine, the brakes light up with a slight delay > and only with pressure enough to make the car almost stop, not just slow > down a bit. > Any Ideas would be appreciated! > |
#3
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Busdriver wrote:
> Hello, > > The Brake lights on my '70 Bus (daily driver 70mi/day) work, but only if I > depress the pedal pretty hard. > I replaced the front pads in May and bled the system at the same time. > Have readjusted all brakepads almost two months ago. The pedal feels nice > and firm, no pumping required. The problem is I drive home from work when > its dark, the lights work fine, the brakes light up with a slight delay > and only with pressure enough to make the car almost stop, not just slow > down a bit. > Any Ideas would be appreciated! > '70 US Buses have 2 3-prong stop light switches. At end of life, they will need very high pressure to activate. Replace both of them (not too hard to do on a Bus). Problem is that aftermarket switches are pretty much junk, so it's a crap-shoot... Why 3 prongs? They are actually SPDT switches arranged to light the dash warning light if there is a leak in one hyd circuit. (The actual circuit is on my web site.) Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
#4
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So you think they might be on their way out?
The previous owner installed a new master cylinder about 7-8 years ago. I think that when you install a new master cylinder new switches are mandatory. right?! So 8 years is the approximate lifespan? My brake warning light on the dash doesn't come on. I checked the bulb, works, the connection, hooked up and not corroded.... I haven't been able to check the switches, but that's probably it. Any recommendations on the brand for good quality switches? |
#5
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In article
outautos.com>, "Busdriver" > wrote: > Hello, > > The Brake lights on my '70 Bus (daily driver 70mi/day) work, but only if I > depress the pedal pretty hard. > I replaced the front pads in May and bled the system at the same time. > Have readjusted all brakepads almost two months ago. The pedal feels nice > and firm, no pumping required. The problem is I drive home from work when > its dark, the lights work fine, the brakes light up with a slight delay > and only with pressure enough to make the car almost stop, not just slow > down a bit. > Any Ideas would be appreciated! > I had the same problem. replace the switches. and prime them with some fluid . fill the hole. good luck and add a third brake lite to the rear window. might just save your neck. g. Patriotism is supporting your country all the time and the government when it deserves it. -Mark Twain |
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