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#21
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alfistagj wrote:
> > ??? > > Whutza "dummy" actuator ??? > A "dummy" is something that looks like something, but isn't. > In this case a kind of screw that you can put in place of the defective TA > that presses down the lever in the Spica pump so the setting is "warm" :-) Kinda 'thot' so ... but not quite sure ... best to 'ask'. I'd opine not the best solution for running an alum blocked , steel sleeved engine in cold(er) climes. Far better to cobble a manual fuel enrichener. Qed. PS- maybe 'you' know ... .. what was the Spica 'configuration' on your V8 Montreal ??? |
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#22
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"0_Qed" > schreef in bericht ... > alfistagj wrote: > > Far better to cobble a manual fuel enrichener. > Why?? > PS- maybe 'you' know ... > . what was the Spica 'configuration' on your V8 Montreal ??? What do you mean with "configuration"?? -- Ciao from Holland AlfistaGJ (Gert-Jan) Now: Rosso Radicofani GT 2.0JTS (2005) Golden Montreal 1428700 (1973/4) And former owner of: 156SW / 2 155's / 75 / Giulietta / 2 33's / 3 Sud's / Alfetta GT / Montreal / 2000GTV / 1300GTJ / 2 Giulia Super's |
#23
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alfistagj wrote:
............. > > Far better to cobble a manual fuel enrichener. > Why?? It would 'seem' that a Dummy 'TA' Actuator wont manage F/A mixes , over the temp range, in which the engine runs . Aside from the 'labor/time' involved , an inexpensive 'fix'. :-) ...................... > > PS- maybe 'you' know ... > > . what was the Spica 'configuration' on your V8 Montreal ??? > What do you mean with "configuration"?? The 'configuration' of the Spica pump internals ... ?Is? "it" ... .. two(2) 4_cyl Spica pumps ... or .. one(1) 8_cyl Spica pump The term 'configuration' implies ( this side the Pond ) ... the 'form/fit/function', of 'an' assemblage of parts , for 'some' given 'end_item', or significant sub_assembly, assembled to 'some' print(s) "rev" level, In the strictest 'sense' , the 'term' =explicitly= ... .. specifiys =each= component part's print "rev" level, and .. usually 'suggests' that =each= end_item has a unique 'serial#' affixed .. 'This' is an very expensive procedure to accomplish ... not normally found in 'commercial' product ... typically, a military weapons 'systems' requiremant. It's 'objective' is to 100% assure that field, & depot, R&R can be accomplished ... No "need" to return to the "auto parts shop" to get/find "one" that fits & functions. Also 'useful' in fault diagnosis , if/when the failed 'end_item' is not "available" for inspection. More, but "it" mite be boring. Ed. |
#24
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On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 11:48:54 -0400, 0_Qed >
wrote: >alfistagj wrote: >Far better to cobble a manual fuel enrichener. From the looks of the TA on the pump, the previous owner eliminated everything but the flange mount and put a phillips head screw into the flange. My first thought is that I would have to get another TA just to get to a starting point for the manual enricher. Could anyone give me some specifics on how to construct this enricher? A drawing (with some narrative) scanned into the computer and emailed to me at would certainly be greatly appreciated. I'm being deployed to Afghanistan in September and I'd like to make this a father/son project before I leave. I'll be starting 60 days leave soon and my son is out of school for the summer. I'd also feel much better knowing that the car is running properly before I ship out. Thanks to all of you for your comments. W. Roberts San Antonio, TX |
#25
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Could anyone post or email me an assembly drawing for the headlight
switch? I can't get a safety inspection here unless the dims work....and they don't unless I hold the switch in. Thanks. W Roberts San Antonio, TX |
#26
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~Zaitsev wrote:
> > On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 11:48:54 -0400, 0_Qed > > wrote: > > >alfistagj wrote: > > >Far better to cobble a manual fuel enrichener. I agree with 'me'. :-) .................. > From the looks of the TA on the pump, the previous owner eliminated > everything but the flange mount and put a phillips head screw into the > flange. ;_( A sore 'pecker' 'fix' , "if" I'm permitted. . ............... > My first thought is that I would have to get another TA just to get to > a starting point for the manual enricher. Nah ... I'd start from 'scratch' ... dumpster dive at the local Steel Shop ... I do. Hand 'carve' the plate, drill to accept the OEM fasteners ... 'mm' mach screws . RE_use the mm mach screws. 30 mins time. find a 5/8 ... 3/4" dia "rod_stock" of plain brass ... local mach shop , 2" long +\-, braze the plate to the 2" lgth of rod stock ... rod =centered= on the plate , pleze. The two(2) mm mach-screw holes, and the 'drilled' hole aught be =on= the same scribbed line , equidistant twixt the mm mach-screw holes. Center-punch a drill starter 'dimple' in the plate ... after =accurately= locating same ... a steel-use, carbide scribe wll help immensely, scribe_lines done in/on a "blued" surface if you're finicky. "blue" is a canned, blue, quickdry, steel 'lay_out' ink. sharpen the dimple punch to a point ... so it "hurts'. *If* your accurately 'scribbed' lines are crossed at the hole center, you aughta be able to 'feel' when the punch "drops" into the crossed scrib lines, in the steel plate ... whack it. Helps start the drill accurately . .............lathe drilling - chuck the brazed assembly in a lathe, 1/8th inch drill in tail-stock ... drill a 'long' hole , with a =properly= sharpened, long-hole 'sharpened' drill ... .. get the lathe owner to sharpen it ... "this" hole aughta fit a short piece of 1/8th inch steel drill_rod , similar to the OEM TA 'piston' ... no reall need to be exact , the object is to have the 'piston' 'hit' the internal lever on-center .... Proceed as 'with' a top_circumcized 'TA' ... Again ... dont forget the cable_clamped, dirt seal at the juncture of cable-entry & TA top . ................ > Could anyone give me some specifics on how to construct this enricher? > A drawing (with some narrative) scanned into the computer and emailed > to me at would certainly be greatly > appreciated. Will email my addy. All too simple to construct , even from 'scratch' , just using 'words'. :-) When you're 'done', you'll have a flat spot in your forehead ... ....................... As an 'alt' to a lathe , chuck the brazed assembly in a BIG_HUGE( BH ) drill press vise , drill successively larger holes ... 1/16 ==> 1/8 , in 3/4" to 1" depth =steps= to completion. The 'BH' vise resists the drill's 'grab' in brass , more better_er drilling. Drill Press 'quils' wobble far more than a lathe chuck ... very sloppy .... thus the need to drill in 'steps'. ............ Make =sure= both 'sized' drills are ground such that the flutes are symetrically ground, and that the 'pointy' end is =centered= in the 'root' of the bit ... .... "root" = the 'thinish' drill section twixt the flutes ... .... aka the drill's 'web' twixt the flutes ... viewed from the cutting end . The pointy-end wont quite 'be' a needle point ... more like a =small= chisel end. ........................... Drills, ground off-center, drill a larger than 'size' hole. ;_( ............. Make =sure= the brass rod is well "centered" on the plate , Clamp "it" twixt the jaws of a 3" ++ C_clamp ... the fluxed braze will 'wick' into the joint, at "heat" , in similar fashion to solder. .. Do your best to 'center' the brass rod, .. drill 'thru' the center of the brazed assembly , .. thus going 'thru' the center of the brass rod. ......... I think the lever "below", is aligned to the center of the OEM TA, and, ... mite be about 1/8th inch in 'width' . Your hacked 'piston' should aughta, pretty much .. hit this lever, "center-on" . Thus, the need to assure a 'centered' drilling of the 'scratch-made' TA . Worst thing you can 'do' is rush ... or, be unwilling to bash it, yet again, a second time. Got enuf 'milk' ... stock ??? ..................... > I'm being deployed to Afghanistan in September and I'd like to make > this a father/son project before I leave. I'll be starting 60 days > leave soon and my son is out of school for the summer. Via Con Dios. Be careful, out 'there'. > I'd also feel much better knowing that the car is running properly > before I ship out. > Thanks to all of you for your comments. > W. Roberts > San Antonio, TX Hey ... even Texans deserve a break. Ed |
#27
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"0_Qed" > schreef in bericht
... > alfistagj wrote: > > It would 'seem' that a Dummy 'TA' Actuator wont manage F/A mixes , > over the temp range, > in which the engine runs . > > Aside from the 'labor/time' involved , > an inexpensive 'fix'. > :-) Agree in respect to precision, but the TA only reacts to the cooling water/fluid temerature, not to the ambient temperature. So, after 5-10 minutes the engine is above 70dgr C and the TA won't do anything anymore. > > > The 'configuration' of the Spica pump internals ... > ?Is? "it" ... > . two(2) 4_cyl Spica pumps ... > or > . one(1) 8_cyl Spica pump > In fact it are two(2) 4-cyl bodies bolted together, but with a special 8 cyl. crankshaft. One of the 2 bodies is identical to the 4-cyl version. The other one is a modified version (more or less cut off stirn side) The other components like TA, speed regulation etc. are identical to the 4 cyl. All settings are the same as the 4 cyl. -- Ciao from Holland AlfistaGJ (Gert-Jan) Now: Rosso Radicofani GT 2.0JTS (2005) Golden Montreal 1428700 (1973/4) And former owner of: 156SW / 2 155's / 75 / Giulietta / 2 33's / 3 Sud's / Alfetta GT / Montreal / 2000GTV / 1300GTJ / 2 Giulia Super's |
#28
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some links to usable info:
http://www.alfamontreal.info/Montreal/DummyTA.jpg http://www.alfamontreal.info/Montreal/Agap.GIF http://www.alfamontreal.info/Montreal/SimpleDTA.jpg http://www.alfamontreal.info/Montreal/TAinUse.jpg http://www.alfamontreal.info/Montreal/TAextension.jpg http://www.alfamontreal.info/Montreal/C.6.0149.jpg http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/d...37/ta_diy.html http://www.alfamontreal.info/Montreal/BrennoTA.html http://www.alfamontreal.info/Montreal/AlfaCat1.jpg http://www.alfamontreal.info/Montreal/AlfaCat2.jpg -- Ciao from Holland AlfistaGJ (Gert-Jan) Now: Rosso Radicofani GT 2.0JTS (2005) Golden Montreal 1428700 (1973/4) And former owner of: 156SW / 2 155's / 75 / Giulietta / 2 33's / 3 Sud's / Alfetta GT / Montreal / 2000GTV / 1300GTJ / 2 Giulia Super's |
#29
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alfistagj wrote:
> Agree in respect to precision, but the TA only reacts to the cooling > water/fluid temerature, not to the ambient temperature. > So, after 5-10 minutes the engine is above 70dgr C and the TA won't do > anything anymore. Agreed. Operating an Alfa in 'NE'(USA) , with winter sub_zero(F_deg) temps is a bit tough ... nice to have a 'bit' of enrichment 'at' starting. > In fact it are two(2) 4-cyl bodies bolted together, but with a special 8 > cyl. crankshaft. > One of the 2 bodies is identical to the 4-cyl version. > The other one is a modified version (more or less cut off stirn side) > The other components like TA, speed regulation etc. are identical to the 4 > cyl. > All settings are the same as the 4 cyl. Thanks for 'that' ... sounds like a good/proper FI solution for a V8 ... Ed. |
#30
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In the cold (rich) position is the plunger up? One would expect that
if it operates on heat, then, upon heating, the fluid would expand and depress the switch and turn the fuel enrichment plunger down (off). Or, is just the opposite? Or....does my physics suck? |
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