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New Water Pump= No Heat!



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 16th 07, 10:36 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 38
Default New Water Pump= No Heat!

Hi all, I just had my water pump replaced on my 1990 Chev. Celebrity.
Now I have no heat...temp is running normal, around 230-240+/- (normal
for this car) Radiator is full, checked after a 100 mile run, still
full, no leaks whatsoever. Still no heat. You can feel a slight amount
of heat from the vents, but prior to the water pump job, it was so hot
it felt like a heat gun and you actually had to mix it down to cold a
little for it to be comfortable. My mechanic did mention something
about a neck on the manifold breaking and he did indeed fix it, but I
don't know if this is relative. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks, Jay

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  #2  
Old March 16th 07, 11:41 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Shep
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Posts: 146
Default New Water Pump= No Heat!

Sounds like it is air bound, there is a bleeder on the thermo housing and
the bypass pipe. 3.1?
> wrote in message
ups.com...
> Hi all, I just had my water pump replaced on my 1990 Chev. Celebrity.
> Now I have no heat...temp is running normal, around 230-240+/- (normal
> for this car) Radiator is full, checked after a 100 mile run, still
> full, no leaks whatsoever. Still no heat. You can feel a slight amount
> of heat from the vents, but prior to the water pump job, it was so hot
> it felt like a heat gun and you actually had to mix it down to cold a
> little for it to be comfortable. My mechanic did mention something
> about a neck on the manifold breaking and he did indeed fix it, but I
> don't know if this is relative. Any thoughts on this?
> Thanks, Jay
>




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  #3  
Old March 17th 07, 12:19 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
John S.
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Posts: 981
Default New Water Pump= No Heat!

On Mar 16, 6:36 pm, wrote:
> Hi all, I just had my water pump replaced on my 1990 Chev. Celebrity.
> Now I have no heat...temp is running normal, around 230-240+/- (normal
> for this car) Radiator is full, checked after a 100 mile run, still
> full, no leaks whatsoever. Still no heat. You can feel a slight amount
> of heat from the vents, but prior to the water pump job, it was so hot
> it felt like a heat gun and you actually had to mix it down to cold a
> little for it to be comfortable. My mechanic did mention something
> about a neck on the manifold breaking and he did indeed fix it, but I
> don't know if this is relative. Any thoughts on this?
> Thanks, Jay


Probably an air-lock. Did you bleed the air out? For some cars there
is a set procedure to follow.

  #4  
Old March 17th 07, 05:49 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Knifeblade_03[_153_]
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Posts: 1
Default New Water Pump= No Heat!


- On the 3.1L engine open the air bleed vent on the throttle body
return pipe (above the coolant pump). The air bleed vent should be
opened two to three turns.
- [image: http://www.autozone.com/images/upper_left.gif]
- [image: http://www.autozone.com/images/grey_line.gif]
- [image: http://www.autozone.com/images/upper_right.gif]
- [image: http://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gif]
- [image: http://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gif]
- CAUTION[image: http://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gif]When draining
coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene
glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an
uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal
in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable
container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or
several years old. [image:
http://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gif][image:
http://www.autozone.com/images/clearpixel.gif][image:
http://www.autozone.com/images/lower_left.gif][image:
http://www.autozone.com/images/grey_line.gif][image:
http://www.autozone.com/images/lower_right.gif]

- Remove the drain plug(s) from the engine block (located on the
engine block, above the engine oil pan) and allow the coolant to
drain.
- Close the radiator drain fitting and reinstall the engine block
plugs.
- On the 3.1L close the bleed valve on the throttle body.
- Add clear water to the system until it is filled.
- Start the engine and repeat steps 7-12 until the drained water is
almost colorless. Turn the engine -OFF-.
- Allow the system to drain completely and repeat step 10. Remove the
cap from the coolant recovery tank, leaving the hoses connected to the
cap.
- Unbolt and remove the coolant recovery tank, drain it, and flush it
with clear water. Reinstall the tank.
- Fill the radiator to the base of the radiator filler neck with a
50/50 mixture of coolant/water. On diesel equipped models, add a
gallon of undiluted coolant first, then add the 50/50 solution.-If only the radiator was drained, use a 50/50 solution to refill it,
then check the freezing protection after the level stabilizes.-

- Fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL mark with the 50/50
solution.
- With the radiator cap still removed, start the engine and allow it
to idle until the upper radiator hose becomes hot, indicating that
the thermostat has opened.
- With the engine still idling, fill the radiator to the base of the
filler neck with the 50/50 solution.
- Install the radiator cap, being sure to align the arrows on the cap
with the overflow tube.
- Turn the engine -OFF-, check for leakage, and double check that the
radiator drain is closed and the drain plug(s) is (are) tightened.Dunno if this helps, but wth.


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