Rust-Oleum on old car?

Some of the rust came back about 3 years later. I think it was worth it. The shine lasted
until I got rid of the car.

Bill Johnston wrote:

> Marty > wrote in message >...
> > I had a '72 Datsun that ran great but was rusting away. I finally got
> > annoyed and hit it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer , then brushed on a
> > nice beige with a good quality brush. I called it a 50 foot paint job. You
> > could not see the brush strokes from 50 feet away, and it never lost the
> > gloss finish. Really didn't look too bad. Took about a quart and half to
> > do the whole car.
>
> How long did it last? Did the rust come back much?
> >
> >
> > Bill Johnston wrote:
> >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I have a 1980 Buick with rust problems, principally from two sources:
> > > It was in a rollover awhile back and got scraped up on the roof and
> > > sides, resulting in rust in those places. And the shoddy paint is
> > > flaking off on the sides, causing rust speckling. The rust is bubbling
> > > up in a few places but is mainly thin surface stuff.
> > >
> > > The car has high miles and will never win a beauty contest, but I
> > > would like to avoid getting rust holes, especially in the roof. My
> > > idea is to quickly sand off as much rust as possible and then slap on
> > > some rust-oleum paint. The idea is to stop or slow the rust- I don't
> > > care if it looks good.
> > >
> > > Do you think rust-oleum would do a good job in this situation? Big
> > > difference between spray-on and brush-on rust-oleum? Also, it says it
> > > has to be 50F to apply. If its slightly colder does it matter very
> > > much?
> > >
> > > (My main experience in rustoleum is on an old rusty kid's wagon I
> > > redid 17 years ago. The rust has yet to reappear).

In article >, Marty wrote:
>Some of the rust came back about 3 years later. I think it was worth it.
>The shine lasted until I got rid of the car.
>
>Bill Johnston wrote:
>
>> Marty > wrote in part in article
>> >...
>> > I had a '72 Datsun that ran great but was rusting away. I finally
>> > got annoyed and hit it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer , then
>> > brushed on a nice beige with a good quality brush. I called it a 50
>> > foot paint job. You could not see the brush strokes from 50 feet
>> > away, and it never lost the gloss finish. Really didn't look too bad.
>> > Took about a quart and half to do the whole car.
>>
>> How long did it last? Did the rust come back much?

My grandmother had a late 1970's or maybe close to 1980 Datsun. It
developed serious rust problems around 1990-1992 or so. My mother's
mechanic said it would need something like $600 of work before he could
pass it for inspection, and a similar amount of work the next year and the
year after that. He advised to get rid of the car.
I have an impression that Fords made as late as the late 1970's rusted
about that badly. Around 1999 I bought a late 1970's Ford Grenada and
sold it 2 years later for $50 due to rust making it "totalled" as of when
it next had to pass inspection.
My car before the Grenada was a 1987 Honda Civic. Engine had rings
break on me with a cylinder losing compression (close to 140K miles),
probably due to the previous owner only changing the oil every 12K miles
and not adding oil until the "add oil" light was glowing constantly for a
month or two. The mechanic I used when I got rid of the car bought it
from me, replaced the engine with a used engine, and probably still uses
it for business purposes as he said he was using the car for about 3 years
ago (the transmission is not quite right for maybe similar reasons of
neglect by the owner before me).
Back to oil: This car burned a quart of oil every couple hundred miles
when I had it. I suspect there was a cracked "oil ring" (one of the
piston rings) in the cylinder that lost compression on my watch. (My
mechanic said "engine is toasted so badly it's not worth finding out
what it needs to fix" or something like that...) Maybe some oil oozed
down the exhaust line, maybe explaining why the previous owner had his
catalytic converter clog up... shame, since I have the impression that
Honda Civics should last 200K, maybe more likely 250K miles if you take
care of them...

- Don Klipstein )

Don Klipstein wrote:

> I have an impression that Fords made as late as the late 1970's
> rusted
> about that badly. Around 1999 I bought a late 1970's Ford Grenada and
> sold it 2 years later for $50 due to rust making it "totalled" as of
> when it next had to pass inspection.

Where are you? This seems very strange to me--In Ohio, I've never heard
of a car failing inspection due to rust.

In article >, Dave Johnson wrote:
>Don Klipstein wrote:
>
>> I have an impression that Fords made as late as the late 1970's
>> rusted
>> about that badly. Around 1999 I bought a late 1970's Ford Grenada and
>> sold it 2 years later for $50 due to rust making it "totalled" as of
>> when it next had to pass inspection.
>
>Where are you? This seems very strange to me--In Ohio, I've never heard
>of a car failing inspection due to rust.

Pennsylvania. If major structural parts are rusted badly enough (this
is codified somehow), the mechanic is legally required to flunk the car.
Some will pass the car anyway, and I suspect I could have found one that
would have passed my car (I have a coworker who knows mechanics who pass
any car that passes emissions if the lights and horn and brakes work.)
But two mechanics did say the frame was starting to be in danger of
breaking.

- Don Klipstein )

>Where are you? This seems very strange to me--In Ohio, I've never heard
>of a car failing inspection due to rust.

i've heard virginia is bad about this.