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#1
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Front-end Noise
Hello to All,
I have a 1999 Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0 SOHC. Now with about 76K miles I'm having what appears to be my first problem (other than the killer tire swap). I hear a metal on metal clunking noise in the front end while driving. It's not only when braking and/or turning, but braking and turning seems to make it louder. Also, this noise has only started when our current heat wave occurred. It goes away in the cooler early morning temps but comes back when the heat does. I have done my own replacement of all brake pads. I took off the front wheels and checked that the calipers are tight and everything is in order. I owned a 1977 VW bus and remember experiencing a similar symptom with it. In that case, it was the wheel bearings which I repaired. Is that a good guess? What do you suggest? Thanks again for any help you can provide. Regards, Stephen Saunders |
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#2
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Since its temperature related, maybe its the stabilizer bar bushings
you hear. Sounds like a creaking sound. They are easy to remove and lubricate. Did this noise occur after you did the brake job? |
#3
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Mike,
Thanks for your quick reply. BTW, no on the noise occurring after the brake job. That was about 20K miles ago. Since you say the fix is easy, I'd like to try. Can you point me to a source of instructions for doing this? Do I get to the stabilizer bar bushings by pulling the front wheels or jacking up the front end? I have a hydraulic jack. Thanks again, Stephen "Mikepier" > wrote in message oups.com... > Since its temperature related, maybe its the stabilizer bar bushings > you hear. Sounds like a creaking sound. They are easy to remove and > lubricate. > > Did this noise occur after you did the brake job? > |
#4
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No, you don't need any jacks , nor do you need to take the wheels off.
If you look underneath the front of your truck, by the radiator, you'll see a round bar, about 1 1/2" diameter, bolted to the frame on either side with 2 U brackets. The bushings are in the bracket. You can see them. You just need to take out the 2 bolts holding each bracket in. The bar will drop giving you enough room to remove the bushing from the bracket. It has a slit in it so the bushing can be removed from the bar. Put some water resistant grease or lubricant on it and put it back in. Just a tip. Removing the bolts might be a pain with just a regular 3/8" drive ratchet set. It will come easier with a 1/2 " drive ratchet set to give you more torque. Good luck. |
#5
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Thank you Mike for your help. You are the only one to respond so far and
you did respond very quickly. That gives me so much confidence about finding answers that I need and that other people can supply. I had an old Mitsubishi front projection large screen TV that I bought when they first came out. I owned it for 13 years. Then the red gun went dead and I contacted Mitsubishi to order another one. They said the part was not available. So I went on Usenet and found that if I bought and installed a separate filament transformer for the red gun, that would eliminate the short that stopped my red gun because there would be no short with a separate filament electrical source. The guy was right and the TV worked again. Thank God for usenet! I have ordered a Chilton's manual and that's probably a good idea given the age of my car. My worst nightmare would be that this is something more serious. Could I request a buy-in from the Explorer guru, Mr. Warman? Thanks to all, Stephen "Mikepier" > wrote in message oups.com... > No, you don't need any jacks , nor do you need to take the wheels off. > If you look underneath the front of your truck, by the radiator, you'll > see a round bar, about 1 1/2" diameter, bolted to the frame on either > side with 2 U brackets. The bushings are in the bracket. You can see > them. You just need to take out the 2 bolts holding each bracket in. > The bar will drop giving you enough room to remove the bushing from the > bracket. It has a slit in it so the bushing can be removed from the > bar. Put some water resistant grease or lubricant on it and put it back > in. > Just a tip. Removing the bolts might be a pain with just a regular 3/8" > drive ratchet set. It will come easier with a 1/2 " drive ratchet set > to give you more torque. Good luck. > |
#6
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Hopefully that will solve your noise problem. If not, well then we got
to look deeper. But the stabilizer bar bushings are a good start. |
#7
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Mike,
Thank you for your help. I did everything you advised. It appeared that the bushings had a waffle-like design inside, so I used a general purpose grease that I picked up at NAPA. It was purple in color. I felt that a spray on lubricant would not fill or stay in the waffle-like pockets. I also considered replacing the bushings with new ones, so I contacted the local Ford dealer. They said the bushings had been recalled which peaked my interest. Unfortunately, they did not have the replacement recall parts nor did my VIN qualify for the recall. They said it was only certain models manufactured at certain plants in certain years. But I would have to use the recall replacement parts at my cost to replace them. Anyway, after the process, my noise did not go away. Bummer. I was only out $1.56 for the grease. Mike, do you or anyone else have an idea what it is I have if not the bushings? Any further information on the recall of the stabilizer bar bushings would be appreciated. Remember that it has to be about 90 degrees or more for this to happen and I did not have to be breaking, accelerating, or turning for it to happen. It's a dull knocking sound and I can feel it the same time I hear it through the steering wheel. How about wheel bearings? Other suspension parts? Defective brake pads? Power steering system components? Again, let me thank you for your help. I am so glad this newsgroup exists. Regards, Stephen "Mikepier" > wrote in message oups.com... > Hopefully that will solve your noise problem. If not, well then we got > to look deeper. But the stabilizer bar bushings are a good start. > |
#8
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Sorry, I can't think of any other problems that would cause your
symptoms. |
#9
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Mike,
A ham radio buddy who has owned 5 explorers told me to spray silicon lubricant on the front suspension parts of my car. I did that. The noise "almost" went away. And considering that the problem is heat related, today it was close to 100 degrees. I think I am closing in on the source of the problem. I welcome your further suggestions or those from others who have experienced the "knocking" symptom. Meanwhile, I have re-contacted the local dealership to see if they have further information on my particular problem. I'm fairly confident they will not tell me more, but I will post to help others. Thanks again Mike, Stephen "Mikepier" > wrote in message oups.com... > Sorry, I can't think of any other problems that would cause your > symptoms. > |
#10
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Here's a current update, Mike,
I took my car to the local dealership on Thursday of last week. My car was at the dealership overnight. They diagnosed the problem as damaged catalytic converters. They told me they would replace both of them for $2000. They advised me to go to an independent shop which I did on Friday when I got my car back. That did not solve the problem. So now I am out $37.50 for the bogus diagnosis and $369 for the converters. This week, in fact yesterday, I took the car back to the local dealership because it was warm enough for the symptom to occur. Their mechanic saw the problem but they were too busy to work on it the same day. So I took my car back to them today (Thursday 8/4). I just got a call saying that even though the problem was completely evident when I dropped the car off at 11 AM, they still haven't figured it out. So here I am without my car again. I will keep you and the group up to date with my experience in hopes that others can benefit from my experience. Thanks Again, Stephen "Mikepier" > wrote in message oups.com... > Sorry, I can't think of any other problems that would cause your > symptoms. > |
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