overheating 92 GMC V6

I removed and replaced the same distributor marking and insuring it was
correctly installed. I had unplugged and plugged the electronic timing
advance with he engine running. Now when I drive in light traffic over a
long period (about 40 minutes) it will gradually over heat (AC on and in
90degree or higher temp) it seems to be running slightly hotter over all
with out the AC. Checked the timing with advance connected and it is
being controlled. the engine does not seem to be running any differently
than before. When it heats up the lite for CHECK GASES comes on. turn
off the AC and it cools and the lite goes out.
since this I have changed the thermostat and are now looking at the fan
clutch. Am I on the right path or could I have done something to cause
this over heating with the distributor?

The reason the dist. was removed was a noise like a bearing might have
been going bad there. I have also since then replaced the dist.

On Sat, 23 Jul 2005 19:57:22 -0400, "ken2557" >
wrote:

>I removed and replaced the same distributor marking and insuring it was
>correctly installed. I had unplugged and plugged the electronic timing
>advance with he engine running. Now when I drive in light traffic over a
>long period (about 40 minutes) it will gradually over heat (AC on and in
>90degree or higher temp) it seems to be running slightly hotter over all
>with out the AC. Checked the timing with advance connected and it is
>being controlled. the engine does not seem to be running any differently
>than before. When it heats up the lite for CHECK GASES comes on. turn
>off the AC and it cools and the lite goes out.
>since this I have changed the thermostat and are now looking at the fan
>clutch. Am I on the right path or could I have done something to cause
>this over heating with the distributor?
>
>The reason the dist. was removed was a noise like a bearing might have
>been going bad there. I have also since then replaced the dist.
>

Have you verified the timing with a timing light. You could be off
one or two teeth on the distributor from the RR - No way for anyone
here to know just how well you marked it and just how close you got it
re-installed to those marks. If you don't have a timing light you can
just loosen the distributor and turn it about 3 degrees and retighten
it. If my memory is right, advancing it will make the rpm's higher.
Since you don't know whether it's off on the advanced or retarded side
it doesn't matter which way you try it first, just don't forget which
way you turned it. If the first 3 degrees doesn't make things better
then turn it back the 3 degrees and then 3 degrees more in the other
direction and try that. If that still doesn't improve things, and
assuming it seemed to run OK for both those attempts you can retry the
whole thing only doing 6 degrees. Keep a close eye on the temp gauge
as one of these attempts, esp the 6 degree change, is likely to make
it heat up fast. Best thing of course would be to use a timing light
and set it right. If it starts to ping, you know it's too far
advanced.

"ken2557" wrote:
>I removed and replaced the same distributor marking and insuring it
>was
>correctly installed. I had unplugged and plugged the electronic
timing
>advance with he engine running. Now when I drive in light traffic
>over a
>long period (about 40 minutes) it will gradually over heat (AC on
and
>in
>90degree or higher temp) it seems to be running slightly hotter over
>all
>with out the AC. Checked the timing with advance connected and it is
>being controlled. the engine does not seem to be running any
>differently
>than before. When it heats up the lite for CHECK GASES comes on.
>turn
>off the AC and it cools and the lite goes out.
>since this I have changed the thermostat and are now looking at the
>fan
>clutch. Am I on the right path or could I have done something to
>cause
>this over heating with the distributor?
>
>The reason the dist. was removed was a noise like a bearing might
have
>been going bad there. I have also since then replaced the dist.

I think that you were on the verge of a heating problem and it finaly
surfaced. Check clutch fan operation and checked for plugged radiator
core internally (it is old enough) and extrenally for bugs and dirt.

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"Ashton Crusher" wrote:
>On Sat, 23 Jul 2005 19:57:22 -0400, "ken2557"
>
>wrote:
>
>>I removed and replaced the same distributor marking and insuring
>it was
>>correctly installed. I had unplugged and plugged the electronic
>timing
>>advance with he engine running. Now when I drive in light traffic
>over a
>>long period (about 40 minutes) it will gradually over heat (AC on
>and in
>>90degree or higher temp) it seems to be running slightly hotter
>over all
>>with out the AC. Checked the timing with advance connected and it
>is
>>being controlled. the engine does not seem to be running any
>differently
>>than before. When it heats up the lite for CHECK GASES comes on.
>turn
>>off the AC and it cools and the lite goes out.
>>since this I have changed the thermostat and are now looking at
>the fan
>>clutch. Am I on the right path or could I have done something to
>cause
>>this over heating with the distributor?
>>
>>The reason the dist. was removed was a noise like a bearing might
>have
>>been going bad there. I have also since then replaced the dist.
>>
>
>Have you verified the timing with a timing light. You could be off
>one or two teeth on the distributor from the RR - No way for anyone
>here to know just how well you marked it and just how close you got
it
>re-installed to those marks. If you don’t have a timing light
>you can
>just loosen the distributor and turn it about 3 degrees and retighten
>it. If my memory is right, advancing it will make the rpm’s
>higher.
>Since you don’t know whether it’s off on the advanced or
>retarded side
>it doesn’t matter which way you try it first, just don’t
>forget which
>way you turned it. If the first 3 degrees doesn’t make things
>better
>then turn it back the 3 degrees and then 3 degrees more in the other
>direction and try that. If that still doesn’t improve things,
>and
>assuming it seemed to run OK for both those attempts you can retry
the
>whole thing only doing 6 degrees. Keep a close eye on the temp gauge
>as one of these attempts, esp the 6 degree change, is likely to make
>it heat up fast. Best thing of course would be to use a timing light
>and set it right. If it starts to ping, you know it’s too far
>advanced.

I disagree with this. While advance timing can generate a little more
heat, itis not a lot and it would take a lot more than 6 degrees to do
it and you would have pinging/knocking problem before you have heating
problems. Hs cooling system is in need of attension because "if" the
timing made any difference it is very slight and his cooling capacity
was on the ragged edge to begin with for this to crop up.

I just went out yesterday to retrive a fullsized 4x4 on a car hauler
and haul it 50 miles in 93 degrees heat in interstate hills at 65 to
70mph. My 350 powered chevy truck never got one needle width above
normal the whole time and we were "chillin" big time with the A/C in
side too. I keep my cooling systems in good order so I do not have
problems and I can tow if need be whether it is 50 or 95. Given the
age of his truck, his radiator may be cloged.

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Thanks folks,
the timming was set with a timming lite to 0 degrees. this is what the
tag inside the engine compartment says it should be set to. I have
lowered the level of the water in the raditor and there is good flow in
there. the water pump was changed about 3,00 miles back. I have tried to
advance and retard the timming and that just seemed to effect the
performace of it. the thermostate was changed since the problem came up.
i used the timming lite after everything was back together and the timming
changes when i rev the engine, saying the advance is working. the thermal
fan, when i start the engine cold, will have the noticable increase in air
after a few seconds of running. it seems to be working correctly. I
cannot tell if it is working after the engine gets hot. I am told that
when the engine is hot, it should be pretty well bonded to the water pump
shart, but other engines do not bond so I don't know if that is
correct.Min feels pretty much the same hot or cold.

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 11:20:43 -0400, "ken2557" >
wrote:

>Thanks folks,
>the timming was set with a timming lite to 0 degrees. this is what the
>tag inside the engine compartment says it should be set to. I have
>lowered the level of the water in the raditor and there is good flow in
>there. the water pump was changed about 3,00 miles back. I have tried to
>advance and retard the timming and that just seemed to effect the
>performace of it. the thermostate was changed since the problem came up.
>i used the timming lite after everything was back together and the timming
>changes when i rev the engine, saying the advance is working. the thermal
>fan, when i start the engine cold, will have the noticable increase in air
>after a few seconds of running. it seems to be working correctly. I
>cannot tell if it is working after the engine gets hot. I am told that
>when the engine is hot, it should be pretty well bonded to the water pump
>shart, but other engines do not bond so I don't know if that is
>correct.Min feels pretty much the same hot or cold.
>


once the truck is warmed up and you shut the engine off, the radiator
clutch fan should be somewhat hard to manually rotate by hand.

when you are setting the timing are you setting the "base" timing?

I assume you have verfied that there is no blockage between the
radiator and A/C condensor and that you have adaquate air flow across
the radiator?

what kind of temps are you seeing?

I would think you have a fan clutch problem just based on what you
have said, or maybe some type of radiiator issue.
---
Elbert Clarke

remove ** to email

"" wrote:
> Thanks folks,
> the timming was set with a timming lite to 0 degrees. this is
> what the
> tag inside the engine compartment says it should be set to. I
> have
> lowered the level of the water in the raditor and there is
> good flow in
> there. the water pump was changed about 3,00 miles back. I
> have tried to
> advance and retard the timming and that just seemed to effect
> the
> performace of it. the thermostate was changed since the
> problem came up.
> i used the timming lite after everything was back together and
> the timming
> changes when i rev the engine, saying the advance is working.
> the thermal
> fan, when i start the engine cold, will have the noticable
> increase in air
> after a few seconds of running. it seems to be working
> correctly. I
> cannot tell if it is working after the engine gets hot. I am
> told that
> when the engine is hot, it should be pretty well bonded to the
> water pump
> shart, but other engines do not bond so I don't know if that
> is
> correct.Min feels pretty much the same hot or cold.

This is not a timing issue so do not waste you time with that, I have
long run greater than stock time and I have no heating problems on my
vehicals from it. Sounds like you have a plugged radiator. You may
need to get it recored or replaced but if you go the replacement route
get a v8 radiator or one with more core thickness and be shed of the
problem for good.

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thanks agian.
I'll keep away from the timming ( yes, setting the base timming) and go
for the cooling system and let ya all know how it turns out.
i sure am glad this isn't my only means of transportation. its hot down
here in texas

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 00:43:44 -0400, "ken2557" >
wrote:

>thanks agian.
>I'll keep away from the timming ( yes, setting the base timming) and go
>for the cooling system and let ya all know how it turns out.
>i sure am glad this isn't my only means of transportation. its hot down
>here in texas

I had an 89 mustang that ran hot in the city. It already had a new
radiator. Everything seemed ok so I replaced the easiest thing which
was the fan clutch with a "heavy duty" one from AutoZone. That cured
the problem. It's hard to really tell if those clutches are good or
not. Supposedly once the vehicle is warmed up you can test them by
shutting the engine off, waiting a few minutes and then try to "throw"
the fan to make it spin. If you can make it spin much at all it's got
a bad clutch. It definitely should not be easy to turn or feel like
it's freewheeling at all.

I changed the fan cluch and this made a massive difference in the air flow
and took care of my problem. While is was in there i cleaned the reditor
with liquid dish soap and i was suprised at the amout of dirt i got out.
I spray the raditor every time i wash the truck.
Thanks for the help.