2000 Concorde LXi Tranmission

"John Gregory" > wrote in message
...
> I've got the official factory service manual from Chrysler. Will the light
> automatically go out when the parts are replaced? If those parts are on
the
> outside, I have trouble understanding what risk of injury or damage might
> occur.

Daniel Stern had a car he couldnt fix a few years ago and got into a deep
mess with the owner so he blamed the after market manual for that. That is
what he meant when by the comment below

> > Which manual do you have? It must be a FACTORY manual, not a Haynes or
> > Chilton, etc., or you are wasting your time and risking injury and/or
> > damage.


But then... I haven't looked at the manual yet for this operation.
> When I think about it though, it's a moot point. The car is at the
> dealership, I'd have to tow it about two miles (assuming I shouldn't drive
> it as is), then I'd have to get the parts Monday and make the repair in
the
> rain followed by snow (northern Ohio). Bunk! I'll just let Chrysler do it
> and be guided by what I'm told here. I'm acquainted with the service
manager
> (he's help give me advice on various things I've done myself) and he seems
> to be fair. If I let him know Monday that I seem to have my finger on the
> problem that should help keep the labor where it ought to be. I assume the
> 1.5 is what "the book" (what IS that book called that gives you guys the
> expected time of repair?) calls for.

1.5 labor I said was on the high side.


>
> I appreciate all the help.
>
>
>
> "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
> n.umich.edu...
> > On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, John Gregory wrote:
> >
> >> Q1) That indicator light. Is that something that gets triggered by
> >> transmission fluid heat but needs to shut off by a mechanic. In other
> >> words, it goes on automatically but not off automatically.
> >
> > It's on because the computer isn't seeing proper signals from the output
> > speed sensor.
> >
> >> Q2) Are these parts that are readily accessible without tampering with
> >> the transmission itself - like something bolted onto the housing or
> >> somewhere else in the engine?
> >
> > They are indeed accessible from the outside, without disassembling the
> > transmission.
> >
> >> Q3) I have a manual and am mechanically inclined. I'm also retired and
> >> not readily inclined to slide under my car for very long. An Hour and a
> >> half may be too long.
> >
> > Which manual do you have? It must be a FACTORY manual, not a Haynes or
> > Chilton, etc., or you are wasting your time and risking injury and/or
> > damage.
>
>

On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, John Gregory wrote:

> I've got the official factory service manual from Chrysler.

Excellent.

> Will the light automatically go out when the parts are replaced?

I'm not certain -- the manual will contain this information.

> If those parts are on the
> outside, I have trouble understanding what risk of injury or damage might
> occur.

The reference was to the many errors and grossly incorrect procedures
present in Haynes and Chilton manuals.

> I assume the 1.5 is what "the book" (what IS that book called that gives
> you guys the expected time of repair?) calls for.

"Flat-rate manual".

You should have no problem driving the car home a few miles from the
dealership if you want to fix it yourself. The trans is locked in
second gear so accelerate slowly and don't go excessivley fast. The
input sensor failed on my sisters car a while back and she was at the
dealership less than 30 minutes total to get it replaced.

Steve B.

Also have the dealer change the AT fluid since it got very hot.


"maxpower" > wrote in message
...
>
> "John Gregory" > wrote in message
> ...
>> While cruising between 65 and 70 on the throughway this evening, my
>> speedometer suddenly (and I do mean suddenly) dropped to zero. I felt a
>> slight shift or hesitation and began looking at gages, suspecting the
> worst;
>> nothing but the speedometer registered unusual and the car continued. I
>> traveled about a quarter to a half mile, stopped at a station, checked
>> the
>> trans fluid and found nothing unusual. slight odor from the fluid but
>> nothing like burnt fluid.
>>
>>
>>
>> I pulled out of the station and chose to drive side roads rather than
>> turn
>> back on the throughway; a wise decision. The speedometer continued to
>> stay
>> at zero and - although I must have been traveling no more than 35 to 40
>> miles an hour, the RPMs exceeded 2000; as though I were stuck in first
> gear.
>> After traveling about half a mile, the transmission light came on ( I
> assume
>> that's what it was despite my failure to find a similar picture in the
>> service manual). I continued to drive with that light on for another
> quarter
>> of a mile to half mile then shut off the car as soon as I found a safe
> place
>> and called a tow truck. It was towed to a Chrysler dealer. Now I sit here
>> shuddering about the call I expect Monday morning;$$$$.
>>
>>
>>
>> What are likely root causes of this problem? My '95 Concorde had the
>> transmission replaced at 25000. I was "assured" the trans problems were
>> corrected. Now another Concorde five years younger - with only 55000 -
>> starts sputtering in the drive chain. What the hell's the mater with
>> these
>> components? Or could this be an electrical issue.like a computer module
>> of
>> some sort? And what's my likelihood of getting Chrysler to pick up at
> least
>> half the tab?
>>
> Your out put speed sensor quit on you, have the dealer replace both
> sensors
> on this trans, the Input and the Output speed sensor, the two parts should
> cost about $65.00 and I wouldn't expect to pay more then 1.5 labor for the
> job.
>
> Glenn Beasley
> Chrysler Tech
>
>

"John Gregory" > wrote in message
...
> While cruising between 65 and 70 on the throughway this evening, my
> speedometer suddenly (and I do mean suddenly) dropped to zero. I felt a
> slight shift or hesitation and began looking at gages, suspecting the
worst;
> nothing but the speedometer registered unusual and the car continued. I
> traveled about a quarter to a half mile, stopped at a station, checked the
> trans fluid and found nothing unusual. slight odor from the fluid but
> nothing like burnt fluid.
>
>
>
> I pulled out of the station and chose to drive side roads rather than turn
> back on the throughway; a wise decision. The speedometer continued to stay
> at zero and - although I must have been traveling no more than 35 to 40
> miles an hour, the RPMs exceeded 2000; as though I were stuck in first
gear.
> After traveling about half a mile, the transmission light came on ( I
assume
> that's what it was despite my failure to find a similar picture in the
> service manual). I continued to drive with that light on for another
quarter
> of a mile to half mile then shut off the car as soon as I found a safe
place
> and called a tow truck. It was towed to a Chrysler dealer. Now I sit here
> shuddering about the call I expect Monday morning;$$$$.
>
>
>
> What are likely root causes of this problem? My '95 Concorde had the
> transmission replaced at 25000. I was "assured" the trans problems were
> corrected. Now another Concorde five years younger - with only 55000 -
> starts sputtering in the drive chain. What the hell's the mater with these
> components? Or could this be an electrical issue.like a computer module of
> some sort? And what's my likelihood of getting Chrysler to pick up at
least
> half the tab?
>
>
Sounds like a speed sensor shouldn't be too big of a bill.

Welp... here's the outcome; $205.00! Replaced both sensors and billed me for
2 hours labor. Told me there was no need to worry about the transmission
fluid; new, improved and designed to withstand the temperatures of hell.
They also did a safety bulletin repair for two seat bolts so they got paid
by Chrysler for that as well.

Did I get rooked?

"TNKEV" > wrote in message
...
>
> "John Gregory" > wrote in message
> ...
>> While cruising between 65 and 70 on the throughway this evening, my
>> speedometer suddenly (and I do mean suddenly) dropped to zero. I felt a
>> slight shift or hesitation and began looking at gages, suspecting the
> worst;
>> nothing but the speedometer registered unusual and the car continued. I
>> traveled about a quarter to a half mile, stopped at a station, checked
>> the
>> trans fluid and found nothing unusual. slight odor from the fluid but
>> nothing like burnt fluid.
>>
>>
>>
>> I pulled out of the station and chose to drive side roads rather than
>> turn
>> back on the throughway; a wise decision. The speedometer continued to
>> stay
>> at zero and - although I must have been traveling no more than 35 to 40
>> miles an hour, the RPMs exceeded 2000; as though I were stuck in first
> gear.
>> After traveling about half a mile, the transmission light came on ( I
> assume
>> that's what it was despite my failure to find a similar picture in the
>> service manual). I continued to drive with that light on for another
> quarter
>> of a mile to half mile then shut off the car as soon as I found a safe
> place
>> and called a tow truck. It was towed to a Chrysler dealer. Now I sit here
>> shuddering about the call I expect Monday morning;$$$$.
>>
>>
>>
>> What are likely root causes of this problem? My '95 Concorde had the
>> transmission replaced at 25000. I was "assured" the trans problems were
>> corrected. Now another Concorde five years younger - with only 55000 -
>> starts sputtering in the drive chain. What the hell's the mater with
>> these
>> components? Or could this be an electrical issue.like a computer module
>> of
>> some sort? And what's my likelihood of getting Chrysler to pick up at
> least
>> half the tab?
>>
>>
> Sounds like a speed sensor shouldn't be too big of a bill.
>
>

"John Gregory" > wrote in message
...
> Welp... here's the outcome; $205.00! Replaced both sensors and billed me
for
> 2 hours labor. Told me there was no need to worry about the transmission
> fluid; new, improved and designed to withstand the temperatures of hell.
> They also did a safety bulletin repair for two seat bolts so they got paid
> by Chrysler for that as well.
>
> Did I get rooked?
>
> "TNKEV" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > "John Gregory" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >> While cruising between 65 and 70 on the throughway this evening, my
> >> speedometer suddenly (and I do mean suddenly) dropped to zero. I felt a
> >> slight shift or hesitation and began looking at gages, suspecting the
> > worst;
> >> nothing but the speedometer registered unusual and the car continued. I
> >> traveled about a quarter to a half mile, stopped at a station, checked
> >> the
> >> trans fluid and found nothing unusual. slight odor from the fluid but
> >> nothing like burnt fluid.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I pulled out of the station and chose to drive side roads rather than
> >> turn
> >> back on the throughway; a wise decision. The speedometer continued to
> >> stay
> >> at zero and - although I must have been traveling no more than 35 to 40
> >> miles an hour, the RPMs exceeded 2000; as though I were stuck in first
> > gear.
> >> After traveling about half a mile, the transmission light came on ( I
> > assume
> >> that's what it was despite my failure to find a similar picture in the
> >> service manual). I continued to drive with that light on for another
> > quarter
> >> of a mile to half mile then shut off the car as soon as I found a safe
> > place
> >> and called a tow truck. It was towed to a Chrysler dealer. Now I sit
here
> >> shuddering about the call I expect Monday morning;$$$$.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> What are likely root causes of this problem? My '95 Concorde had the
> >> transmission replaced at 25000. I was "assured" the trans problems were
> >> corrected. Now another Concorde five years younger - with only 55000 -
> >> starts sputtering in the drive chain. What the hell's the mater with
> >> these
> >> components? Or could this be an electrical issue.like a computer module
> >> of
> >> some sort? And what's my likelihood of getting Chrysler to pick up at
> > least
> >> half the tab?
> >>
> >>
> > Sounds like a speed sensor shouldn't be too big of a bill.
> >
> >
>
Yup a little steep with the labor

maxpower wrote:

> "John Gregory" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Welp... here's the outcome; $205.00! Replaced both sensors and billed me
>
> for
>
>>2 hours labor. Told me there was no need to worry about the transmission
>>fluid; new, improved and designed to withstand the temperatures of hell.
>>They also did a safety bulletin repair for two seat bolts so they got paid
>>by Chrysler for that as well.
>>
>>Did I get rooked?
>>

> Yup a little steep with the labor

Yeah - I'd like to get paid for 2 hours for 30 minutes work. Where do I
sign up! I'd at least tell them to knock it back to book rate - and ask
them to explain why they take that long to do a 30 minute job.

You really should change the fluid and filter regardless of what they
say. Every 80k miles would be reasonable. DIY for cost of fluid and
filter and 2 hours time, and get a thorough changeout of fluid in the
bargain - not less than half from a pan drop.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')

I have 4 of these same/very similar Chrysler electronic transmissions in a
1991 Mitsubishi 300GT (130K miles) 1996 Eagle Vision (75K miles) , 1999 T&C
Minivan (64K miles), and 2001 Dodge Intrepid (40K miles). I have dropped
the pans and changed all these vehicles transmission fluid (use the correct
ATF+3/4 fluid) and filter on 30-36K mile intervals and all are still
performing just like when they were new. I am still amazed at the shift
quality in the 14.5 year old 3000GT every time I drive it! I know that
dropping the pan does not get all the fluid, but believe that this approach
is much better than the "power flush" recommended at the dealer. I
personally have seen the gunk in the trans pan and the filings on the magnet
and know these will not come out using the power flush method. I also
believe in replacing the filter since it can only clog and restrict fluid
pressure over time.

With regard to the speed sensors, I doubt both were actually defective.
From what you had described, I would have guessed the output sensor was bad.
I've replaced three of these over the years on the vehicles listed above and
previous Chryslers as well. About two years back the part cost me about $25
or so dollars at the local dealer. Access was a breeze if you can get under
the vehicle and it took about 10 minutes to remove the electrical connector
, unscrew the part using a simple wrench and then screw in the replacement
and re-connect the connector. I personally do not see the value in the
price you paid, but then again, you might not have the tools or the
inclination so $200 to fix it may well be worth it to you.

Bob

"Bill Putney" > wrote in message
...
> maxpower wrote:
>
> > "John Gregory" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> >>Welp... here's the outcome; $205.00! Replaced both sensors and billed me
> >
> > for
> >
> >>2 hours labor. Told me there was no need to worry about the transmission
> >>fluid; new, improved and designed to withstand the temperatures of hell.
> >>They also did a safety bulletin repair for two seat bolts so they got
paid
> >>by Chrysler for that as well.
> >>
> >>Did I get rooked?
> >>
>
> > Yup a little steep with the labor
>
> Yeah - I'd like to get paid for 2 hours for 30 minutes work. Where do I
> sign up! I'd at least tell them to knock it back to book rate - and ask
> them to explain why they take that long to do a 30 minute job.
>
> You really should change the fluid and filter regardless of what they
> say. Every 80k miles would be reasonable. DIY for cost of fluid and
> filter and 2 hours time, and get a thorough changeout of fluid in the
> bargain - not less than half from a pan drop.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> adddress with the letter 'x')

Out of curiosity, I phoned another large Chrysler dealer to get an estimate
of this repair. $249! If the part costs $65 and they billed by "the book",
that means labor runs $122.66 and hour. Can this be right?

Q1) Is there a book available at the library - or on line - that will give
standard time for all repair jobs?

I think it would be wise to be armed with this information before agreeing
to a repair... not that I'm complaining about mine. I may have been clipped
a little but the dealership has been fair with me in the past. And... if his
competitor is any guide, my dealer actually gave me "a break".

Q2) What is the going hourly rate for a Chrysler dealership repair these
days?


"Bill Putney" > wrote in message
...
> maxpower wrote:
>
>> "John Gregory" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>Welp... here's the outcome; $205.00! Replaced both sensors and billed me
>>
>> for
>>
>>>2 hours labor. Told me there was no need to worry about the transmission
>>>fluid; new, improved and designed to withstand the temperatures of hell.
>>>They also did a safety bulletin repair for two seat bolts so they got
>>>paid
>>>by Chrysler for that as well.
>>>
>>>Did I get rooked?
>>>
>
>> Yup a little steep with the labor
>
> Yeah - I'd like to get paid for 2 hours for 30 minutes work. Where do I
> sign up! I'd at least tell them to knock it back to book rate - and ask
> them to explain why they take that long to do a 30 minute job.
>
> You really should change the fluid and filter regardless of what they say.
> Every 80k miles would be reasonable. DIY for cost of fluid and filter and
> 2 hours time, and get a thorough changeout of fluid in the bargain - not
> less than half from a pan drop.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> adddress with the letter 'x')