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#1
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2000 Concorde LXi Tranmission
While cruising between 65 and 70 on the throughway this evening, my
speedometer suddenly (and I do mean suddenly) dropped to zero. I felt a slight shift or hesitation and began looking at gages, suspecting the worst; nothing but the speedometer registered unusual and the car continued. I traveled about a quarter to a half mile, stopped at a station, checked the trans fluid and found nothing unusual. slight odor from the fluid but nothing like burnt fluid. I pulled out of the station and chose to drive side roads rather than turn back on the throughway; a wise decision. The speedometer continued to stay at zero and - although I must have been traveling no more than 35 to 40 miles an hour, the RPMs exceeded 2000; as though I were stuck in first gear. After traveling about half a mile, the transmission light came on ( I assume that's what it was despite my failure to find a similar picture in the service manual). I continued to drive with that light on for another quarter of a mile to half mile then shut off the car as soon as I found a safe place and called a tow truck. It was towed to a Chrysler dealer. Now I sit here shuddering about the call I expect Monday morning;$$$$. What are likely root causes of this problem? My '95 Concorde had the transmission replaced at 25000. I was "assured" the trans problems were corrected. Now another Concorde five years younger - with only 55000 - starts sputtering in the drive chain. What the hell's the mater with these components? Or could this be an electrical issue.like a computer module of some sort? And what's my likelihood of getting Chrysler to pick up at least half the tab? |
#2
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"John Gregory" > wrote in message ... > While cruising between 65 and 70 on the throughway this evening, my > speedometer suddenly (and I do mean suddenly) dropped to zero. I felt a > slight shift or hesitation and began looking at gages, suspecting the worst; > nothing but the speedometer registered unusual and the car continued. I > traveled about a quarter to a half mile, stopped at a station, checked the > trans fluid and found nothing unusual. slight odor from the fluid but > nothing like burnt fluid. > > > > I pulled out of the station and chose to drive side roads rather than turn > back on the throughway; a wise decision. The speedometer continued to stay > at zero and - although I must have been traveling no more than 35 to 40 > miles an hour, the RPMs exceeded 2000; as though I were stuck in first gear. > After traveling about half a mile, the transmission light came on ( I assume > that's what it was despite my failure to find a similar picture in the > service manual). I continued to drive with that light on for another quarter > of a mile to half mile then shut off the car as soon as I found a safe place > and called a tow truck. It was towed to a Chrysler dealer. Now I sit here > shuddering about the call I expect Monday morning;$$$$. > > > > What are likely root causes of this problem? My '95 Concorde had the > transmission replaced at 25000. I was "assured" the trans problems were > corrected. Now another Concorde five years younger - with only 55000 - > starts sputtering in the drive chain. What the hell's the mater with these > components? Or could this be an electrical issue.like a computer module of > some sort? And what's my likelihood of getting Chrysler to pick up at least > half the tab? > Your out put speed sensor quit on you, have the dealer replace both sensors on this trans, the Input and the Output speed sensor, the two parts should cost about $65.00 and I wouldn't expect to pay more then 1.5 labor for the job. Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech |
#3
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I never thought I'd be pleased to hear my car needed repair but that's what
happens when you expect a $2500 bill and learn it's gonna' cost less than $200. I appreciate the help. A few more questions: Q1) That indicator light. Is that something that gets triggered by transmission fluid heat but needs to shut off by a mechanic. In other words, it goes on automatically but not off automatically. Q2) Are these parts that are readily accessible without tampering with the transmission itself - like something bolted onto the housing or somewhere else in the engine? Q3) I have a manual and am mechanically inclined. I'm also retired and not readily inclined to slide under my car for very long. An Hour and a half may be too long. "maxpower" > wrote in message ... > > "John Gregory" > wrote in message > ... >> While cruising between 65 and 70 on the throughway this evening, my >> speedometer suddenly (and I do mean suddenly) dropped to zero. I felt a >> slight shift or hesitation and began looking at gages, suspecting the > worst; >> nothing but the speedometer registered unusual and the car continued. I >> traveled about a quarter to a half mile, stopped at a station, checked >> the >> trans fluid and found nothing unusual. slight odor from the fluid but >> nothing like burnt fluid. >> >> >> >> I pulled out of the station and chose to drive side roads rather than >> turn >> back on the throughway; a wise decision. The speedometer continued to >> stay >> at zero and - although I must have been traveling no more than 35 to 40 >> miles an hour, the RPMs exceeded 2000; as though I were stuck in first > gear. >> After traveling about half a mile, the transmission light came on ( I > assume >> that's what it was despite my failure to find a similar picture in the >> service manual). I continued to drive with that light on for another > quarter >> of a mile to half mile then shut off the car as soon as I found a safe > place >> and called a tow truck. It was towed to a Chrysler dealer. Now I sit here >> shuddering about the call I expect Monday morning;$$$$. >> >> >> >> What are likely root causes of this problem? My '95 Concorde had the >> transmission replaced at 25000. I was "assured" the trans problems were >> corrected. Now another Concorde five years younger - with only 55000 - >> starts sputtering in the drive chain. What the hell's the mater with >> these >> components? Or could this be an electrical issue.like a computer module >> of >> some sort? And what's my likelihood of getting Chrysler to pick up at > least >> half the tab? >> > Your out put speed sensor quit on you, have the dealer replace both > sensors > on this trans, the Input and the Output speed sensor, the two parts should > cost about $65.00 and I wouldn't expect to pay more then 1.5 labor for the > job. > > Glenn Beasley > Chrysler Tech > > |
#4
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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, John Gregory wrote:
> Q1) That indicator light. Is that something that gets triggered by > transmission fluid heat but needs to shut off by a mechanic. In other > words, it goes on automatically but not off automatically. It's on because the computer isn't seeing proper signals from the output speed sensor. > Q2) Are these parts that are readily accessible without tampering with > the transmission itself - like something bolted onto the housing or > somewhere else in the engine? They are indeed accessible from the outside, without disassembling the transmission. > Q3) I have a manual and am mechanically inclined. I'm also retired and > not readily inclined to slide under my car for very long. An Hour and a > half may be too long. Which manual do you have? It must be a FACTORY manual, not a Haynes or Chilton, etc., or you are wasting your time and risking injury and/or damage. |
#5
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I've got the official factory service manual from Chrysler. Will the light
automatically go out when the parts are replaced? If those parts are on the outside, I have trouble understanding what risk of injury or damage might occur. But then... I haven't looked at the manual yet for this operation. When I think about it though, it's a moot point. The car is at the dealership, I'd have to tow it about two miles (assuming I shouldn't drive it as is), then I'd have to get the parts Monday and make the repair in the rain followed by snow (northern Ohio). Bunk! I'll just let Chrysler do it and be guided by what I'm told here. I'm acquainted with the service manager (he's help give me advice on various things I've done myself) and he seems to be fair. If I let him know Monday that I seem to have my finger on the problem that should help keep the labor where it ought to be. I assume the 1.5 is what "the book" (what IS that book called that gives you guys the expected time of repair?) calls for. I appreciate all the help. "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message n.umich.edu... > On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, John Gregory wrote: > >> Q1) That indicator light. Is that something that gets triggered by >> transmission fluid heat but needs to shut off by a mechanic. In other >> words, it goes on automatically but not off automatically. > > It's on because the computer isn't seeing proper signals from the output > speed sensor. > >> Q2) Are these parts that are readily accessible without tampering with >> the transmission itself - like something bolted onto the housing or >> somewhere else in the engine? > > They are indeed accessible from the outside, without disassembling the > transmission. > >> Q3) I have a manual and am mechanically inclined. I'm also retired and >> not readily inclined to slide under my car for very long. An Hour and a >> half may be too long. > > Which manual do you have? It must be a FACTORY manual, not a Haynes or > Chilton, etc., or you are wasting your time and risking injury and/or > damage. |
#6
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John Gregory wrote:
> I've got the official factory service manual from Chrysler. Will the light > automatically go out when the parts are replaced? If those parts are on the > outside, I have trouble understanding what risk of injury or damage might > occur. But then... I haven't looked at the manual yet for this operation. > When I think about it though, it's a moot point. The car is at the > dealership, I'd have to tow it about two miles (assuming I shouldn't drive > it as is), then I'd have to get the parts Monday and make the repair in the > rain followed by snow (northern Ohio). Bunk! I'll just let Chrysler do it > and be guided by what I'm told here. I'm acquainted with the service manager > (he's help give me advice on various things I've done myself) and he seems > to be fair. If I let him know Monday that I seem to have my finger on the > problem that should help keep the labor where it ought to be. I assume the > 1.5 is what "the book" (what IS that book called that gives you guys the > expected time of repair?) calls for. > > I appreciate all the help. Shop rate book. 20 minute job for a DIY'er. They'll probably charge you the 1.5 hours - one of the costs of having "professionals" do it. BTW - you might want to visit and consider joining the 300M Enthusiasts Club: http://300mclub.100megs42.com/ Their forums: http://300mclub.100megs42.com/forums/index.php Also www.dodgeintrepid.net forums. All 2nd gen. LH cars are 95+% mechanically the same. There are no good Concorde forums, so those are the places to hang out. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x') |
#7
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"John Gregory" > wrote in message ... > I've got the official factory service manual from Chrysler. Will the light > automatically go out when the parts are replaced? If those parts are on the > outside, I have trouble understanding what risk of injury or damage might > occur. Daniel Stern had a car he couldnt fix a few years ago and got into a deep mess with the owner so he blamed the after market manual for that. That is what he meant when by the comment below > > Which manual do you have? It must be a FACTORY manual, not a Haynes or > > Chilton, etc., or you are wasting your time and risking injury and/or > > damage. But then... I haven't looked at the manual yet for this operation. > When I think about it though, it's a moot point. The car is at the > dealership, I'd have to tow it about two miles (assuming I shouldn't drive > it as is), then I'd have to get the parts Monday and make the repair in the > rain followed by snow (northern Ohio). Bunk! I'll just let Chrysler do it > and be guided by what I'm told here. I'm acquainted with the service manager > (he's help give me advice on various things I've done myself) and he seems > to be fair. If I let him know Monday that I seem to have my finger on the > problem that should help keep the labor where it ought to be. I assume the > 1.5 is what "the book" (what IS that book called that gives you guys the > expected time of repair?) calls for. 1.5 labor I said was on the high side. > > I appreciate all the help. > > > > "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message > n.umich.edu... > > On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, John Gregory wrote: > > > >> Q1) That indicator light. Is that something that gets triggered by > >> transmission fluid heat but needs to shut off by a mechanic. In other > >> words, it goes on automatically but not off automatically. > > > > It's on because the computer isn't seeing proper signals from the output > > speed sensor. > > > >> Q2) Are these parts that are readily accessible without tampering with > >> the transmission itself - like something bolted onto the housing or > >> somewhere else in the engine? > > > > They are indeed accessible from the outside, without disassembling the > > transmission. > > > >> Q3) I have a manual and am mechanically inclined. I'm also retired and > >> not readily inclined to slide under my car for very long. An Hour and a > >> half may be too long. > > > > Which manual do you have? It must be a FACTORY manual, not a Haynes or > > Chilton, etc., or you are wasting your time and risking injury and/or > > damage. > > |
#8
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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, John Gregory wrote:
> I've got the official factory service manual from Chrysler. Excellent. > Will the light automatically go out when the parts are replaced? I'm not certain -- the manual will contain this information. > If those parts are on the > outside, I have trouble understanding what risk of injury or damage might > occur. The reference was to the many errors and grossly incorrect procedures present in Haynes and Chilton manuals. > I assume the 1.5 is what "the book" (what IS that book called that gives > you guys the expected time of repair?) calls for. "Flat-rate manual". |
#9
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John Gregory wrote:
> I never thought I'd be pleased to hear my car needed repair but that's what > happens when you expect a $2500 bill and learn it's gonna' cost less than > $200. I appreciate the help. A few more questions: > > Q1) That indicator light. Is that something that gets triggered by > transmission fluid heat but needs to shut off by a mechanic. In other words, > it goes on automatically but not off automatically. > > Q2) Are these parts that are readily accessible without tampering with the > transmission itself - like something bolted onto the housing or somewhere > else in the engine? > > Q3) I have a manual and am mechanically inclined. I'm also retired and not > readily inclined to slide under my car for very long. An Hour and a half may > be too long. Here's a How To linked from the 300M Enthusisats Club web site (300M has identical power train and chassis as Concorde) - tells you everything you need to know including diagram showing location of sensors: http://theswampbbs.com/300m/Services...peedsensor.htm You'll need the front end or the left front up on jack stands - you'll be reaching in to the center of the vehicle from the left side - you'll be on the ground on your back. To access one of the sensors, you may need either an open end or deep well (1"). Regular socket (1") will work for the other one (sensor is shorter, and less obstructions). 20 minute job. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x') |
#10
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John Gregory wrote: > I never thought I'd be pleased to hear my car needed repair but that's what > happens when you expect a $2500 bill and learn it's gonna' cost less than > $200. I appreciate the help. A few more questions: > > Q1) That indicator light. Is that something that gets triggered by > transmission fluid heat but needs to shut off by a mechanic. In other words, > it goes on automatically but not off automatically. I believe what you saw was the "check engine" light which illuminates whenever a fairly serious trouble code is stored by the computer. Some more serious conditions will also cause the light to flash instead of being on steady. The light should go out after the computer detects the problem has not reoccurred after a period of time. If the dealer does the repair they may be able to reset it with their scan tool equipment. You can also view some trouble codes by turning the ignition ON three times repeatedly (don't start the engine) and watching the odometer display. This won't get all codes but it often can give you the more serious ones. Consult the FSM for their meanings. |
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