Replacing Oxygen Sensor.

On Feb 21, 9:52 am, jim beam > wrote:
> wrote:
> > On Feb 20, 11:40 am, jim beam > wrote:
> >> wrote:
> >>> On Feb 19, 10:10 pm, Tony Harding > wrote:
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>> On Feb 5, 2:27 pm, "Elle" > wrote:
> >>>>>> After putting your car's identifying info in atwww.bkhondaparts.com, do a "list all." Click on "exhaust
> >>>>>> manifold." The pre cat one appears. Click on "exhaust pipe"
> >>>>>> for the post cat one.
> >>>>>> These sites are a little tricky to navigate at first.
> >>>>>> Persist. :-)
> >>>>>> > wrote
> >>>>>>> I can't find a diagram of an O2 sensor on their website,
> >>>>>>> maybe using a
> >>>>>>> different term?
> >>>>> Good news. I purchased an O2 sensor off of EBAY for really cheap
> >>>>> (new), loaned the tool out from Auto Zone, jacked up the car, and
> >>>>> replaced the O2 sensor near the front passenger tire. Total time: 10
> >>>>> minutes.
> >>>>> The check engine light is now gone, and I'm looking forward to passing
> >>>>> my emissions, since my tabs have expired.
> >>>>> Thanks everybody!
> >>>> Good news, I guess you replaced the pre-cat sensor.
> >>> So, does this mean that both of O2 sensors have gone bad?
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> --JP
> >> that's why you need the code - without it, you're wasting time and
> >> money. you can get it read free at many of the local auto parts
> >> retailers. or you can buy your own code reader for as little as ~$60.
>
> > OK, so the sensor located after the catalytic converter is in the
> > front?
>
> what is the code?

OK. Autozone checked and found the codes: 0401 and 0420, which the
0401 is the PRG and 0420 is the catalytic converter, but when they
checked the ECU a month ago, the only code was for the O2 sensor. Now
after replacing the O2 sensor, the check engine light doesn't come on
until I drive the car for 50 miles, which I'm guessing is how long it
takes to complete the tests that are returning the codes above.

I would be convinced that I have to replace my catalytic converter,
but I've already replaced it about 1-year ago, and it was an OEM, and
not a generic catalytic converter.

Need to pass emissions soon.

Thanks,

--TJ

wrote:
> On Feb 21, 9:52 am, jim beam > wrote:
>> wrote:
>>> On Feb 20, 11:40 am, jim beam > wrote:
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> On Feb 19, 10:10 pm, Tony Harding > wrote:
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> On Feb 5, 2:27 pm, "Elle" > wrote:
>>>>>>>> After putting your car's identifying info in atwww.bkhondaparts.com, do a "list all." Click on "exhaust
>>>>>>>> manifold." The pre cat one appears. Click on "exhaust pipe"
>>>>>>>> for the post cat one.
>>>>>>>> These sites are a little tricky to navigate at first.
>>>>>>>> Persist. :-)
>>>>>>>> > wrote
>>>>>>>>> I can't find a diagram of an O2 sensor on their website,
>>>>>>>>> maybe using a
>>>>>>>>> different term?
>>>>>>> Good news. I purchased an O2 sensor off of EBAY for really cheap
>>>>>>> (new), loaned the tool out from Auto Zone, jacked up the car, and
>>>>>>> replaced the O2 sensor near the front passenger tire. Total time: 10
>>>>>>> minutes.
>>>>>>> The check engine light is now gone, and I'm looking forward to passing
>>>>>>> my emissions, since my tabs have expired.
>>>>>>> Thanks everybody!
>>>>>> Good news, I guess you replaced the pre-cat sensor.
>>>>> So, does this mean that both of O2 sensors have gone bad?
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> --JP
>>>> that's why you need the code - without it, you're wasting time and
>>>> money. you can get it read free at many of the local auto parts
>>>> retailers. or you can buy your own code reader for as little as ~$60.
>>> OK, so the sensor located after the catalytic converter is in the
>>> front?
>> what is the code?
>
> OK. Autozone checked and found the codes: 0401 and 0420, which the
> 0401 is the PRG

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...n-flow-egr.php



> and 0420 is the catalytic converter,

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...old-bank-1.php



> but when they
> checked the ECU a month ago, the only code was for the O2 sensor. Now
> after replacing the O2 sensor, the check engine light doesn't come on
> until I drive the car for 50 miles, which I'm guessing is how long it
> takes to complete the tests that are returning the codes above.
>
> I would be convinced that I have to replace my catalytic converter,
> but I've already replaced it about 1-year ago, and it was an OEM, and
> not a generic catalytic converter.
>
> Need to pass emissions soon.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --TJ

i suggest you reset the codes and give this car an "italian tune-up".
that may clean up the catalyst sufficiently to have it process the
exhaust correctly. if that doesn't work, consider replacing the second
sensor, the one that is downstream of the cat.

egr problems are common and a huge pita, so you need to deal with that
as a separate issue. google this group for solution. in the future, i
will help you to stick only to good quality branded gasoline, not
discount stuff.

On Feb 5, 1:30 pm, " >
wrote:
> I'm going to try and replace my O2 sensor that came up bad during
> diagnostics, and my tabs are already expired. I understand there are
> two O2 sensors on my model: Honda Accord 98 EX 4Cyc Vtec.
>
> Is this something the average joe can locate and replace, or do I need
> to take in into the shop?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> --TJ

Ended up having the replace the catalyst converter and post cat o2
sensor. The shop I took it to charged me $343 that included parts,
labor, and tax. They ended up having to do a little welding, so if
the check engine light stays off, I will consider this a success.

At that price, should I use this shop in the future?

Thanks,

--TJ

> wrote
> Ended up having the replace the catalyst converter and
> post cat o2
> sensor. The shop I took it to charged me $343 that
> included parts,
> labor, and tax. They ended up having to do a little
> welding, so if
> the check engine light stays off, I will consider this a
> success.
>
> At that price, should I use this shop in the future?

A catalytic converter all by itself runs about $400 at
online OEM Honda parts sites. Add another $100 for an OEM O2
sensor.

They did it so cheaply I bet they used non-OEM all the way
around. Dunno if that's okay for the cat converter. Around
here, many of us feel only OEM is the way to go with the O2
sensor.

The underlying cause of the failed converter needs to be
considered.

F23A1 or F23A4 engine? Calif emissions? Probably not given the $343
price tag.

But the catalytic converter is usually the victim and not the villain.
So make sure the engine is properly tuned up. When was the last time
you had the valve clearances checked? Might want to do that on your
next "tune up". If the clearances are tight, especially on the
exhausts, swap out with NGK Iridium plugs and, on a non-calif vehcile,
a new Bosch planar type sensor (#15730, F23A1, $65.79 rockauto.com)
for the upstream. Planars are more resistant to contamination as
well.

I know many like OEM sensors. If they are NTK/NGK fine, but I don't
really care for Densos. Even their plugs are cheap compared to NGKs.
Glad I didn't recommend a converter replacement for a V6 owner. Two
Bosch planars solved it for me, and the Denso junk didn't even set a
code.




On Mar 20, 3:10 pm, " >
wrote:
> Ended up having the replace the catalyst converter and post cat o2
> sensor. The shop I took it to charged me $343 that included parts,
> labor, and tax. They ended up having to do a little welding, so if
> the check engine light stays off, I will consider this a success.
>
> At that price, should I use this shop in the future?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --TJ

On Mar 22, 5:17 pm, wrote:
> F23A1 or F23A4 engine? Calif emissions? Probably not given the $343
> price tag.
>
> But the catalytic converter is usually the victim and not the villain.
> So make sure the engine is properly tuned up. When was the last time
> you had the valve clearances checked? Might want to do that on your
> next "tune up". If the clearances are tight, especially on the
> exhausts, swap out with NGK Iridium plugs and, on a non-calif vehcile,
> a new Bosch planar type sensor (#15730, F23A1, $65.79 rockauto.com)
> for the upstream. Planars are more resistant to contamination as
> well.
>
> I know many like OEM sensors. If they are NTK/NGK fine, but I don't
> really care for Densos. Even their plugs are cheap compared to NGKs.
> Glad I didn't recommend a converter replacement for a V6 owner. Two
> Bosch planars solved it for me, and the Denso junk didn't even set a
> code.
>
> On Mar 20, 3:10 pm, " >
> wrote:
>
> > Ended up having the replace the catalyst converter and post cat o2
> > sensor. The shop I took it to charged me $343 that included parts,
> > labor, and tax. They ended up having to do a little welding, so if
> > the check engine light stays off, I will consider this a success.
>
> > At that price, should I use this shop in the future?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > --TJ

On to replacing the EGR valve, which hopefully will get my car to pass
emissions.

--JP

On Mar 24, 1:10*pm, " >
wrote:
> On Mar 22, 5:17 pm, wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > F23A1 or F23A4 engine? Calif emissions? Probably not given the $343
> > price tag.
>
> > But the catalytic converter is usually the victim and not the villain.
> > So make sure the engine is properly tuned up. When was the last time
> > you had the valve clearances checked? Might want to do that on your
> > next "tune up". If the clearances are tight, especially on the
> > exhausts, swap out with NGK Iridium plugs and, on a non-calif vehcile,
> > a new Bosch planar type sensor (#15730, F23A1, $65.79 rockauto.com)
> > for the upstream. Planars are more resistant to contamination as
> > well.
>
> > I know many like OEM sensors. If they are NTK/NGK fine, but I don't
> > really care for Densos. Even their plugs are cheap compared to NGKs.
> > Glad I didn't recommend a converter replacement for a V6 owner. Two
> > Bosch planars solved it for me, and the Denso junk didn't even set a
> > code.
>
> > On Mar 20, 3:10 pm, " >
> > wrote:
>
> > > Ended up having the replace the catalyst converter and post cat o2
> > > sensor. *The shop I took it to charged me $343 that included parts,
> > > labor, and tax. *They ended up having to do a little welding, so if
> > > the check engine light stays off, I will consider this a success.
>
> > > At that price, should I use this shop in the future?
>
> > > Thanks,
>
> > > --TJ
>
> On to replacing the EGR valve, which hopefully will get my car to pass
> emissions.
>
> --JP- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Replaced EGR valve, and now I'm still getting P401. The shop said to
bring it in to clean out the system for less than $100. I guess they
have to clean out the pipe before the EGR valve, which is something I
can do they said, but it's very time consuming.

Any advice?

Thanks,

--TJ

On Mar 26, 2:34 pm, " >
wrote:
> On Mar 24, 1:10 pm, " >
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Mar 22, 5:17 pm, wrote:
>
> > > F23A1 or F23A4 engine? Calif emissions? Probably not given the $343
> > > price tag.
>
> > > But the catalytic converter is usually the victim and not the villain.
> > > So make sure the engine is properly tuned up. When was the last time
> > > you had the valve clearances checked? Might want to do that on your
> > > next "tune up". If the clearances are tight, especially on the
> > > exhausts, swap out with NGK Iridium plugs and, on a non-calif vehcile,
> > > a new Bosch planar type sensor (#15730, F23A1, $65.79 rockauto.com)
> > > for the upstream. Planars are more resistant to contamination as
> > > well.
>
> > > I know many like OEM sensors. If they are NTK/NGK fine, but I don't
> > > really care for Densos. Even their plugs are cheap compared to NGKs.
> > > Glad I didn't recommend a converter replacement for a V6 owner. Two
> > > Bosch planars solved it for me, and the Denso junk didn't even set a
> > > code.
>
> > > On Mar 20, 3:10 pm, " >
> > > wrote:
>
> > > > Ended up having the replace the catalyst converter and post cat o2
> > > > sensor. The shop I took it to charged me $343 that included parts,
> > > > labor, and tax. They ended up having to do a little welding, so if
> > > > the check engine light stays off, I will consider this a success.
>
> > > > At that price, should I use this shop in the future?
>
> > > > Thanks,
>
> > > > --TJ
>
> > On to replacing the EGR valve, which hopefully will get my car to pass
> > emissions.
>
> > --JP- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Replaced EGR valve, and now I'm still getting P401. The shop said to
> bring it in to clean out the system for less than $100. I guess they
> have to clean out the pipe before the EGR valve, which is something I
> can do they said, but it's very time consuming.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --TJ

Finally passed WA Emissions. My 98 Honda Accord has 215K rough miles
that includes trips to TX and CA and several months in Dallas. Also,
I drive daily in heavy traffic.

Problem: Check engine light. Codes reported: P401 and P420

Solution: Replaced O2 Sensor (POST CAT), Replaced Catalyst converter,
Replaced EGR Valve, and cleaned EGR passage.

Cost: Catalyst Converter $150, O2 Sensor $50, EGR Valve $125, and
Service $250. Oh yeah, I received two traffic violation tickets which
were for $216/ea, but I'm going to take the second ticket to
mitigation.

Thanks to this group for their experience and help.

--TJ