Chrysler Sebring Air Conditioner

Hello all, I have a problem with my ac and is looking for some
help/guidance. My ac worked fine for almost a year and suddenly my
compressor froze up. I did not know that that was the problem at the
time as I took it into the local shop because I had a burning smell
comming from the hood. They said the ac compressor froze up and the
belt was burning off. They repaired it for about $485.

I did not use the ac as this happen over winter. Come summer I tried to
use the ac and hot air was comming out the vents. i took it back to the
shop and they say the USED compressor thay put in was turning but not
doing its job as a compressor, I ask how much to fixed it, I grabbed my
keys and left in a hurry when they said $1200 in order for them to
guarantee the work.

I decided to do the job myself and this is where i need some help. I
took the sytem apart and while flushing the condensor, big chunks of
metal pieces came out, this tells me that the crap shop just put the
used compressor on the car, did not change or flush anything and slid
me a high bill.

I flushed the evaporator and condensor till no metal pieces was present
and took all the ac lines out and flushed them individually. I changed
the expansion valve and receiver/drier and got a used compressor under
warranty, put new pag 150 oil in the compressor as I have a 1996
sebring convertible, and this is the recommended oil.

I put the system back together with new orings and connected the
receiver/drier last as not to get air/moisture in it. I also put uv die
in the suction side of the compressor for leak detection and put the
system back together.

I then evacuated the sytem with a Vacuum Pump pulling at 30 psi for
about 2 hrs (i fell asleep ) and then close the valves to the high and
low side, shut the vacuum pump off and let it sit for 30 minutes. When
i returned, it was still at 30 psi so i rotated the compressor clutch
so the oil will lubricate it and open the low side and added a can of
refriderant (134a), started the car set the blower to high, turn ac
switch on, compressor clutch kicks on and I continued to add the
required refriderant.

The thing is, the clutch engages, i see no leaks, the receiver/drier
and expansion valve is new but am still at 90 degress comming out the
vents. Is this the sign of a bad compressor, i need to know because I
can return the compressor which is what am about to do and just get a
new unit.

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to let you guys know what i did or
what needed to be done that I did not do, things i can check to ensure
i have a bad compressor or expansion valve.

Any help and or suggestion would be really appreciated.

Thanks
Matrix733


P.S. I was recently informed that the gauges bought at the local shops
say to charge to 30-45 psi but Chrysler say their vehicles is normal at
50-55 psi.

can anyone confirm?

In article
. com>,
"matrix733" > wrote:

<snip>

> The thing is, the clutch engages, i see no leaks, the receiver/drier
> and expansion valve is new but am still at 90 degress comming out the
> vents. Is this the sign of a bad compressor, i need to know because I
> can return the compressor which is what am about to do and just get a
> new unit.

What is the low side pressure with the compressor engaged?
What is the high side pressure with the compressor engaged?
How much oil did you install?
How was the oil distributed?
How much refrigerant did you install?
Was the refrigerant pure R134 or did it have additives?
New expansion valve or used?
What did you use for a flushing agent?

> Sorry for the long post but I wanted to let you guys know what i did or
> what needed to be done that I did not do, things i can check to ensure
> i have a bad compressor or expansion valve.
>
> Any help and or suggestion would be really appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Matrix733
>
>
> P.S. I was recently informed that the gauges bought at the local shops
> say to charge to 30-45 psi but Chrysler say their vehicles is normal at
> 50-55 psi.

You don't charge a system to a specific pressure, you charge by
weight, the specific weight is on the underhood AC label.

No, I would not consider 50-55 PSI to be normal low side pressure
with the compressor running.

On 29 Jun 2006 22:54:07 -0700, "matrix733" >
wrote:

>Hello all, I have a problem with my ac and is looking for some
>help/guidance. My ac worked fine for almost a year and suddenly my
>compressor froze up. I did not know that that was the problem at the
>time as I took it into the local shop because I had a burning smell
>comming from the hood. They said the ac compressor froze up and the
>belt was burning off. They repaired it for about $485.

This lowball "repair" was not a good idea!

>I did not use the ac as this happen over winter. Come summer I tried to
>use the ac and hot air was comming out the vents. i took it back to the
>shop and they say the USED compressor thay put in was turning but not
>doing its job as a compressor, I ask how much to fixed it, I grabbed my
>keys and left in a hurry when they said $1200

About right to do it properly!

> in order for them to
>guarantee the work.
>
>I decided to do the job myself and this is where i need some help. I
>took the sytem apart and while flushing the condensor, big chunks of
>metal pieces came out, this tells me that the crap shop just put the
>used compressor on the car, did not change or flush anything and slid
>me a high bill.
>
>I flushed the evaporator and condensor till no metal pieces was present
>and took all the ac lines out and flushed them individually. I changed
>the expansion valve and receiver/drier and got a used compressor

You have obviously done considerable study and are doing everything
right except the choice of a used compressor. When it takes a dump
your system is filled with trash again!

> under warranty,

Warranty is worthless. Might get you another compressor but won't
cover everything else!

> put new pag 150 oil in the compressor as I have a 1996
>sebring convertible, and this is the recommended oil.
>
>I put the system back together with new orings and connected the
>receiver/drier last as not to get air/moisture in it. I also put uv die
>in the suction side of the compressor for leak detection and put the
>system back together.
>
>I then evacuated the sytem with a Vacuum Pump pulling at 30 psi for
>about 2 hrs (i fell asleep ) and then close the valves to the high and
>low side, shut the vacuum pump off and let it sit for 30 minutes. When
>i returned, it was still at 30 psi

That's actually 30 inches of vacuum!

> so i rotated the compressor clutch
>so the oil will lubricate it and open the low side and added a can of
>refriderant (134a), started the car set the blower to high, turn ac
>switch on, compressor clutch kicks on and I continued to add the
>required refriderant.
>
>The thing is, the clutch engages, i see no leaks, the receiver/drier
>and expansion valve is new but am still at 90 degress comming out the
>vents. Is this the sign of a bad compressor, i need to know because I
>can return the compressor which is what am about to do and just get a
>new unit.
>
>Sorry for the long post but I wanted to let you guys know what i did or
>what needed to be done that I did not do, things i can check to ensure
>i have a bad compressor or expansion valve.
>
>Any help and or suggestion would be really appreciated.

What are the high and low side pressures?
Is the suction line cold and sweating all the way back to the
compressor?
Chrysler temperature/air mode controls are a major disaster. You
could well have a blend door at the hot position.

>Thanks
>Matrix733
>
>
>P.S. I was recently informed that the gauges bought at the local shops
>say to charge to 30-45 psi but Chrysler say their vehicles is normal at
>50-55 psi.

Somewhat meaningless. Depends on engine RPM, ambient temperature and
humidity and the condition of the compressor and expansion valve. The
only accurate way to is to charge to specified weight.

Don
www.donsautomotive.conm

>can anyone confirm?

Hello and thanks for all the informative replys. The climate control
lever was one of the first things i checked. I actually took the front
console off and manually pulled the cable between hot and cold and it
got really hot when on the hot side so i know the vent is working.

lol, rock auto was actually the place i got my expansion valve and
receiver/drier but i can get a new compressor for $225, I should have
went with that.

I do hear a hissing sound when the compressor clutch engage but have no
idea if its actually doing its job.

I have 40 psi on the low side and 250 psi on the high side when the car
is running, clutch engage and blower switch is set to max. I think
there is a problem here as the line from the evaporator is not cold,
its almost as if its warm. The high side is very hot of course. Could
this be a problem with the expansion valve or compressor? The
expansion valve and receiver/drier is new.

I added 2 and a half 12oz can of refridgerant to the low side of
course. ( i think 1.75 lbs is what is required) I added 3.5oz of oil
in the suction side of the compressor and another 3.5 to the drier. I
know its added to accumulators but wasn't sure about the drier but did
it anyway. I already check the local shop and they have new drier and
expansion valve so I can at least replace the drier if thats where i
screwed up. I did a lot of research and will not give up till I get
this thing working so all your help is very much appreciated.

I flushed the system with mineral spirits letting it set overnight and
also another overnight after i got all the mineral spirits out.

I know its 30 inches of vacuum as the manifold as a special section of
the gauge to read this from just could not think of the proper term as
i was typing.

thanks for all your help, keep suggestions comming.

250 on the high side is bad. It shouldn't be that high. I'd say (guessing)
that you probably have a blocked oriface from all that junk. Flushing out
the system won't get it clean either. You will need to change it.

Steve (not an expert on AC but plays one on tv)

"matrix733" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hello and thanks for all the informative replys. The climate control
> lever was one of the first things i checked. I actually took the front
> console off and manually pulled the cable between hot and cold and it
> got really hot when on the hot side so i know the vent is working.
>
> lol, rock auto was actually the place i got my expansion valve and
> receiver/drier but i can get a new compressor for $225, I should have
> went with that.
>
> I do hear a hissing sound when the compressor clutch engage but have no
> idea if its actually doing its job.
>
> I have 40 psi on the low side and 250 psi on the high side when the car
> is running, clutch engage and blower switch is set to max. I think
> there is a problem here as the line from the evaporator is not cold,
> its almost as if its warm. The high side is very hot of course. Could
> this be a problem with the expansion valve or compressor? The
> expansion valve and receiver/drier is new.
>
> I added 2 and a half 12oz can of refridgerant to the low side of
> course. ( i think 1.75 lbs is what is required) I added 3.5oz of oil
> in the suction side of the compressor and another 3.5 to the drier. I
> know its added to accumulators but wasn't sure about the drier but did
> it anyway. I already check the local shop and they have new drier and
> expansion valve so I can at least replace the drier if thats where i
> screwed up. I did a lot of research and will not give up till I get
> this thing working so all your help is very much appreciated.
>
> I flushed the system with mineral spirits letting it set overnight and
> also another overnight after i got all the mineral spirits out.
>
> I know its 30 inches of vacuum as the manifold as a special section of
> the gauge to read this from just could not think of the proper term as
> i was typing.
>
> thanks for all your help, keep suggestions comming.
>

this is not an orifice system, it uses an expansion valve connected
directly to the evaporator and that along with the drier was changed,
each part, hose, condensor, evaporator was all flushed. With all this
and a very high pressure on the high side, could it be a bad condensor?



Steve m... wrote:
> 250 on the high side is bad. It shouldn't be that high. I'd say (guessing)
> that you probably have a blocked oriface from all that junk. Flushing out
> the system won't get it clean either. You will need to change it.
>
> Steve (not an expert on AC but plays one on tv)
>
> "matrix733" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> > Hello and thanks for all the informative replys. The climate control
> > lever was one of the first things i checked. I actually took the front
> > console off and manually pulled the cable between hot and cold and it
> > got really hot when on the hot side so i know the vent is working.
> >
> > lol, rock auto was actually the place i got my expansion valve and
> > receiver/drier but i can get a new compressor for $225, I should have
> > went with that.
> >
> > I do hear a hissing sound when the compressor clutch engage but have no
> > idea if its actually doing its job.
> >
> > I have 40 psi on the low side and 250 psi on the high side when the car
> > is running, clutch engage and blower switch is set to max. I think
> > there is a problem here as the line from the evaporator is not cold,
> > its almost as if its warm. The high side is very hot of course. Could
> > this be a problem with the expansion valve or compressor? The
> > expansion valve and receiver/drier is new.
> >
> > I added 2 and a half 12oz can of refridgerant to the low side of
> > course. ( i think 1.75 lbs is what is required) I added 3.5oz of oil
> > in the suction side of the compressor and another 3.5 to the drier. I
> > know its added to accumulators but wasn't sure about the drier but did
> > it anyway. I already check the local shop and they have new drier and
> > expansion valve so I can at least replace the drier if thats where i
> > screwed up. I did a lot of research and will not give up till I get
> > this thing working so all your help is very much appreciated.
> >
> > I flushed the system with mineral spirits letting it set overnight and
> > also another overnight after i got all the mineral spirits out.
> >
> > I know its 30 inches of vacuum as the manifold as a special section of
> > the gauge to read this from just could not think of the proper term as
> > i was typing.
> >
> > thanks for all your help, keep suggestions comming.
> >

matrix733 wrote:
> this is not an orifice system, it uses an expansion valve connected
> directly to the evaporator and that along with the drier was changed,
> each part, hose, condensor, evaporator was all flushed. With all this
> and a very high pressure on the high side, could it be a bad condensor?
>
>
>
A blockage in the evaporator more is likely.

To replace that, the manual will read something like: Step one, Remove
the dash...

anumber1 wrote:
> matrix733 wrote:
> > this is not an orifice system, it uses an expansion valve connected
> > directly to the evaporator and that along with the drier was changed,
> > each part, hose, condensor, evaporator was all flushed. With all this
> > and a very high pressure on the high side, could it be a bad condensor?
> >
> >
> >
> A blockage in the evaporator more is likely.
>
> To replace that, the manual will read something like: Step one, Remove
> the dash...

lol, if this was the case when i had the car in pieces installing my
remote starter, then that would be a possibility, lol.

after 2 driers, 2 expansion valves, 3 flushes, evacuation and refill,
(about $650 later the son of a bitch decided to work, hahahahaha, at
least all that work was not in vain.

here goes, I reflushed the condensor this time with the hoses still
attached to the condensor. I flushed it with more pressure in reversed
of what i did before for eg, I attached the air hose to the smaller
line after filling the condensor with mineral spirits. To my surprise
a big chuck of metal came out that could not pass through the other
side since the line was smaller.

I then removed the compressor and drained it completely and hook my
airline to the suction side and as i blow the oil out the clutch
activated as a result of the pressure so it got emptied pretty good.

Put it back together and no leaks, charge it up and let it sit
overnight after running it for about 30 minutes, it did not work at
this point. Started it in the morning and the pressures were back to
normal and the line from the evaporator to compressor was cold and
started perspiring, lol.

I now had cold air in the cabin, now on to installing the wifes remote
start and power locks in her corolla, damn it, lol

Thanks for all your help

matrix733