Replace all tires for a flat one?

"Big Bill" > wrote in message
...
> On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 23:28:24 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
>
> >
> >"Ocean" > wrote in message
> . com...
> >> My tire (rear/passenger side) got flat and the dealer told me it can't
> >> be fixed for a safty reason. That's ok. However, he asked me to
> >> replace all tires in order to tune ABS and so forth cause it is 4WD(I
> >> know only a little about car). BTW, the car is a 2003 XLT. I bought
> >> this car last year and it is only less than 15K miles so far. Is that
> >> a reasonable solution? I appreciate your suggestions!
> >
> >
> >If you have a locking rear end, you should have the same sized and brand
of
> >tires with similar tread wear on both sides. Because, different sized
tires
> >will greatly increase the wear and tear on your locking assembly
(clutches)
> >because the tires are unable to spin at the same rate.
>
> A locking rear end should not be locked unless traction is poor enough
> to allow the tires to slip. This means that even with the diff locked,
> a minor difference in tire circumference won't matter.
> >

BULL****!
Obviously you have Zero experience with locking rearends. They lock
according to the TORQUE being applied to them. They have ZERO input as to
the condition of the traction!!! You stomp the gas both axels are locked and
driven, regardless of traction conditions. DUH!

I currently have Four 4x4's and 3 cars that have locking rearends. I have
rebuilt and set up more rearends then you have owned in your lifetime. I
have worn out, twisted 31 spine axels, stripped the axel splines off and
even grenaded a couple Ford 9 inch rearends. I have a thorough understanding
of the design and function from the inside out.

If you are going to correct someone you really ought to understand what the
hell you are talking about...


> >If you have a 4x4 It is great practice to keep the same sized and brand
of
> >tires with similar tread wear on all 4 corners. I always do, But unless
it
> >is full time 4x4, or you are in the habit of running around in four wheel
> >drive on dry pavement, it really is not that critical as long as the new
> >tire is the same sized and brand as the other 3. If you have the locking
> >rear end, make sure you have two "matching" on the rear axel.
>
> Yes, same brand and size. But tire size is nominal; small differences
> occur within the same model.
> Ever see race teams measure their tires with an eye to placing the
> different sizes on different corners to improve handling? And these
> are racing tires; hand made, to be as uniform as possible. Tires
> bought 'off the rack', so to speak, are not identical.
> See above for the locking rear end thing.
> >
> >I have owned and driven 4x4 Ford trucks and Bronco's for 25 years. I
always
> >replace my tires in sets of 4, (the newest truck will be sets of 6 :-0)
the
> >only time I have lost a tire to a catastrophic failure and have not had
all
> >4 tires last the life of the set, was when I punched 2 separate sidewalls
on
> >two consecutive weekends on a fairly new set of tires. These tires were
> >purchased from Les Schwab tires, a regional North West dealer who has
> >offered full on and off road, unlimited warranty which covers sidewall
> >punctures since I have been driving, they replaced both for free.
> >
> >If you are not running around on dry pavement in four wheel drive, have
the
> >single new tire of the same brand and size put on the front and you will
be
> >fine.
>
> Why would anyone run around in four wheel drive on dry pavement?
> 25 years?

Duh! I don't, know, maybe they are driving a FULL-TIME 4x4, or who knows,
but my point was, since the vast majority of 4x4's never drive around in
four wheel drive on dry pavement, there would be no issues... Do you just
generally have trouble with reading comprehension?

> Not to sound like I'm making fun of you, but your post does not
> reflect the experience of four-wheeling for 25 years.

Your comments reflect embarrassing mechanical & reading comprehension... No
number of years is likely to correct that...

> >
> >Good Luck
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Bill Funk
> Change "g" to "a"

"351CJ" > wrote in message news:qkTsd.8$2U2.2@trnddc01...
> "Big Bill" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 23:28:24 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >"Ocean" > wrote in message
>> . com...
>> >> My tire (rear/passenger side) got flat and the dealer told me it can't
>> >> be fixed for a safty reason. That's ok. However, he asked me to
>> >> replace all tires in order to tune ABS and so forth cause it is 4WD(I
>> >> know only a little about car). BTW, the car is a 2003 XLT. I bought
>> >> this car last year and it is only less than 15K miles so far. Is that
>> >> a reasonable solution? I appreciate your suggestions!
>> >
>> >
>> >If you have a locking rear end, you should have the same sized and brand
> of
>> >tires with similar tread wear on both sides. Because, different sized
> tires
>> >will greatly increase the wear and tear on your locking assembly
> (clutches)
>> >because the tires are unable to spin at the same rate.
>>
>> A locking rear end should not be locked unless traction is poor enough
>> to allow the tires to slip. This means that even with the diff locked,
>> a minor difference in tire circumference won't matter.
>> >
>
> BULL****!
> Obviously you have Zero experience with locking rearends. They lock
> according to the TORQUE being applied to them. They have ZERO input as to
> the condition of the traction!!! You stomp the gas both axels are locked
> and
> driven, regardless of traction conditions. DUH!
>
> I currently have Four 4x4's and 3 cars that have locking rearends. I have
> rebuilt and set up more rearends then you have owned in your lifetime. I
> have worn out, twisted 31 spine axels, stripped the axel splines off and
> even grenaded a couple Ford 9 inch rearends. I have a thorough
> understanding
> of the design and function from the inside out.
>
> If you are going to correct someone you really ought to understand what
> the
> hell you are talking about...
>
>
>> >If you have a 4x4 It is great practice to keep the same sized and brand
> of
>> >tires with similar tread wear on all 4 corners. I always do, But unless
> it
>> >is full time 4x4, or you are in the habit of running around in four
>> >wheel
>> >drive on dry pavement, it really is not that critical as long as the new
>> >tire is the same sized and brand as the other 3. If you have the
>> >locking
>> >rear end, make sure you have two "matching" on the rear axel.
>>
>> Yes, same brand and size. But tire size is nominal; small differences
>> occur within the same model.
>> Ever see race teams measure their tires with an eye to placing the
>> different sizes on different corners to improve handling? And these
>> are racing tires; hand made, to be as uniform as possible. Tires
>> bought 'off the rack', so to speak, are not identical.
>> See above for the locking rear end thing.
>> >
>> >I have owned and driven 4x4 Ford trucks and Bronco's for 25 years. I
> always
>> >replace my tires in sets of 4, (the newest truck will be sets of 6 :-0)
> the
>> >only time I have lost a tire to a catastrophic failure and have not had
> all
>> >4 tires last the life of the set, was when I punched 2 separate
>> >sidewalls
> on
>> >two consecutive weekends on a fairly new set of tires. These tires were
>> >purchased from Les Schwab tires, a regional North West dealer who has
>> >offered full on and off road, unlimited warranty which covers sidewall
>> >punctures since I have been driving, they replaced both for free.
>> >
>> >If you are not running around on dry pavement in four wheel drive, have
> the
>> >single new tire of the same brand and size put on the front and you will
> be
>> >fine.
>>
>> Why would anyone run around in four wheel drive on dry pavement?
>> 25 years?
>
> Duh! I don't, know, maybe they are driving a FULL-TIME 4x4, or who knows,
> but my point was, since the vast majority of 4x4's never drive around in
> four wheel drive on dry pavement, there would be no issues... Do you just
> generally have trouble with reading comprehension?
>
>> Not to sound like I'm making fun of you, but your post does not
>> reflect the experience of four-wheeling for 25 years.
>
> Your comments reflect embarrassing mechanical & reading comprehension...
> No
> number of years is likely to correct that...
>
>> >
>> >Good Luck
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> --
>> Bill Funk
>> Change "g" to "a"
>
>

"351CJ" > wrote in message news:qkTsd.8$2U2.2@trnddc01...
> "Big Bill" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 23:28:24 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >"Ocean" > wrote in message
>> . com...
>> >> My tire (rear/passenger side) got flat and the dealer told me it can't
>> >> be fixed for a safty reason. That's ok. However, he asked me to
>> >> replace all tires in order to tune ABS and so forth cause it is 4WD(I
>> >> know only a little about car). BTW, the car is a 2003 XLT. I bought
>> >> this car last year and it is only less than 15K miles so far. Is that
>> >> a reasonable solution? I appreciate your suggestions!
>> >
>> >
>> >If you have a locking rear end, you should have the same sized and brand
> of
>> >tires with similar tread wear on both sides. Because, different sized
> tires
>> >will greatly increase the wear and tear on your locking assembly
> (clutches)
>> >because the tires are unable to spin at the same rate.
>>
>> A locking rear end should not be locked unless traction is poor enough
>> to allow the tires to slip. This means that even with the diff locked,
>> a minor difference in tire circumference won't matter.
>> >
>
> BULL****!
> Obviously you have Zero experience with locking rearends. They lock
> according to the TORQUE being applied to them. They have ZERO input as to
> the condition of the traction!!! You stomp the gas both axels are locked
> and
> driven, regardless of traction conditions. DUH!
>
> I currently have Four 4x4's and 3 cars that have locking rearends. I have
> rebuilt and set up more rearends then you have owned in your lifetime. I
> have worn out, twisted 31 spine axels, stripped the axel splines off and
> even grenaded a couple Ford 9 inch rearends. I have a thorough
> understanding
> of the design and function from the inside out.
>
> If you are going to correct someone you really ought to understand what
> the
> hell you are talking about...
>
>
>> >If you have a 4x4 It is great practice to keep the same sized and brand
> of
>> >tires with similar tread wear on all 4 corners. I always do, But unless
> it
>> >is full time 4x4, or you are in the habit of running around in four
>> >wheel
>> >drive on dry pavement, it really is not that critical as long as the new
>> >tire is the same sized and brand as the other 3. If you have the
>> >locking
>> >rear end, make sure you have two "matching" on the rear axel.
>>
>> Yes, same brand and size. But tire size is nominal; small differences
>> occur within the same model.
>> Ever see race teams measure their tires with an eye to placing the
>> different sizes on different corners to improve handling? And these
>> are racing tires; hand made, to be as uniform as possible. Tires
>> bought 'off the rack', so to speak, are not identical.
>> See above for the locking rear end thing.
>> >
>> >I have owned and driven 4x4 Ford trucks and Bronco's for 25 years. I
> always
>> >replace my tires in sets of 4, (the newest truck will be sets of 6 :-0)
> the
>> >only time I have lost a tire to a catastrophic failure and have not had
> all
>> >4 tires last the life of the set, was when I punched 2 separate
>> >sidewalls
> on
>> >two consecutive weekends on a fairly new set of tires. These tires were
>> >purchased from Les Schwab tires, a regional North West dealer who has
>> >offered full on and off road, unlimited warranty which covers sidewall
>> >punctures since I have been driving, they replaced both for free.
>> >
>> >If you are not running around on dry pavement in four wheel drive, have
> the
>> >single new tire of the same brand and size put on the front and you will
> be
>> >fine.
>>
>> Why would anyone run around in four wheel drive on dry pavement?
>> 25 years?
>
> Duh! I don't, know, maybe they are driving a FULL-TIME 4x4, or who knows,
> but my point was, since the vast majority of 4x4's never drive around in
> four wheel drive on dry pavement, there would be no issues... Do you just
> generally have trouble with reading comprehension?
>
>> Not to sound like I'm making fun of you, but your post does not
>> reflect the experience of four-wheeling for 25 years.
>
> Your comments reflect embarrassing mechanical & reading comprehension...
> No
> number of years is likely to correct that...
>
>> >
>> >Good Luck
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> --
>> Bill Funk
>> Change "g" to "a"
>
>

No experience with lockers, well I do. And you are wrong sir, the difference
in tread depth is not going to effect the persons OR your lockers to the
point of a problem. Tread depth is 15/32 (NEW BFGAT) after 15000 miles even
these tires are not going to drop to any less than 10/32, So now if you are
telling me that 5/32 of tire difference is going to effect your lockers then
you need to go out and buy you a set of ARB's. THe only things that should
be of concern are speed rating, tire size, not even brand really makes a hoo
haa.
Searcher1

"351CJ" > wrote in message news:qkTsd.8$2U2.2@trnddc01...
> "Big Bill" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 23:28:24 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >"Ocean" > wrote in message
>> . com...
>> >> My tire (rear/passenger side) got flat and the dealer told me it can't
>> >> be fixed for a safty reason. That's ok. However, he asked me to
>> >> replace all tires in order to tune ABS and so forth cause it is 4WD(I
>> >> know only a little about car). BTW, the car is a 2003 XLT. I bought
>> >> this car last year and it is only less than 15K miles so far. Is that
>> >> a reasonable solution? I appreciate your suggestions!
>> >
>> >
>> >If you have a locking rear end, you should have the same sized and brand
> of
>> >tires with similar tread wear on both sides. Because, different sized
> tires
>> >will greatly increase the wear and tear on your locking assembly
> (clutches)
>> >because the tires are unable to spin at the same rate.
>>
>> A locking rear end should not be locked unless traction is poor enough
>> to allow the tires to slip. This means that even with the diff locked,
>> a minor difference in tire circumference won't matter.
>> >
>
> BULL****!
> Obviously you have Zero experience with locking rearends. They lock
> according to the TORQUE being applied to them. They have ZERO input as to
> the condition of the traction!!! You stomp the gas both axels are locked
> and
> driven, regardless of traction conditions. DUH!
>
> I currently have Four 4x4's and 3 cars that have locking rearends. I have
> rebuilt and set up more rearends then you have owned in your lifetime. I
> have worn out, twisted 31 spine axels, stripped the axel splines off and
> even grenaded a couple Ford 9 inch rearends. I have a thorough
> understanding
> of the design and function from the inside out.
>
> If you are going to correct someone you really ought to understand what
> the
> hell you are talking about...
>
>
>> >If you have a 4x4 It is great practice to keep the same sized and brand
> of
>> >tires with similar tread wear on all 4 corners. I always do, But unless
> it
>> >is full time 4x4, or you are in the habit of running around in four
>> >wheel
>> >drive on dry pavement, it really is not that critical as long as the new
>> >tire is the same sized and brand as the other 3. If you have the
>> >locking
>> >rear end, make sure you have two "matching" on the rear axel.
>>
>> Yes, same brand and size. But tire size is nominal; small differences
>> occur within the same model.
>> Ever see race teams measure their tires with an eye to placing the
>> different sizes on different corners to improve handling? And these
>> are racing tires; hand made, to be as uniform as possible. Tires
>> bought 'off the rack', so to speak, are not identical.
>> See above for the locking rear end thing.
>> >
>> >I have owned and driven 4x4 Ford trucks and Bronco's for 25 years. I
> always
>> >replace my tires in sets of 4, (the newest truck will be sets of 6 :-0)
> the
>> >only time I have lost a tire to a catastrophic failure and have not had
> all
>> >4 tires last the life of the set, was when I punched 2 separate
>> >sidewalls
> on
>> >two consecutive weekends on a fairly new set of tires. These tires were
>> >purchased from Les Schwab tires, a regional North West dealer who has
>> >offered full on and off road, unlimited warranty which covers sidewall
>> >punctures since I have been driving, they replaced both for free.
>> >
>> >If you are not running around on dry pavement in four wheel drive, have
> the
>> >single new tire of the same brand and size put on the front and you will
> be
>> >fine.
>>
>> Why would anyone run around in four wheel drive on dry pavement?
>> 25 years?
>
> Duh! I don't, know, maybe they are driving a FULL-TIME 4x4, or who knows,
> but my point was, since the vast majority of 4x4's never drive around in
> four wheel drive on dry pavement, there would be no issues... Do you just
> generally have trouble with reading comprehension?
>
>> Not to sound like I'm making fun of you, but your post does not
>> reflect the experience of four-wheeling for 25 years.
>
> Your comments reflect embarrassing mechanical & reading comprehension...
> No
> number of years is likely to correct that...
>
>> >
>> >Good Luck
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> --
>> Bill Funk
>> Change "g" to "a"
>
>

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 06:52:06 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:

>"Big Bill" > wrote in message
.. .
>> On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 23:28:24 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >"Ocean" > wrote in message
>> . com...
>> >> My tire (rear/passenger side) got flat and the dealer told me it can't
>> >> be fixed for a safty reason. That's ok. However, he asked me to
>> >> replace all tires in order to tune ABS and so forth cause it is 4WD(I
>> >> know only a little about car). BTW, the car is a 2003 XLT. I bought
>> >> this car last year and it is only less than 15K miles so far. Is that
>> >> a reasonable solution? I appreciate your suggestions!
>> >
>> >
>> >If you have a locking rear end, you should have the same sized and brand
>of
>> >tires with similar tread wear on both sides. Because, different sized
>tires
>> >will greatly increase the wear and tear on your locking assembly
>(clutches)
>> >because the tires are unable to spin at the same rate.
>>
>> A locking rear end should not be locked unless traction is poor enough
>> to allow the tires to slip. This means that even with the diff locked,
>> a minor difference in tire circumference won't matter.
>> >
>
>BULL****!
>Obviously you have Zero experience with locking rearends. They lock
>according to the TORQUE being applied to them. They have ZERO input as to
>the condition of the traction!!! You stomp the gas both axels are locked and
>driven, regardless of traction conditions. DUH!

And, pray tell, on pavement, how much time does your locker spend
locked?
Use a little common sense.
>
>I currently have Four 4x4's and 3 cars that have locking rearends. I have
>rebuilt and set up more rearends then you have owned in your lifetime. I
>have worn out, twisted 31 spine axels, stripped the axel splines off and
>even grenaded a couple Ford 9 inch rearends. I have a thorough understanding
>of the design and function from the inside out.
>
>If you are going to correct someone you really ought to understand what the
>hell you are talking about...
>
>
>> >If you have a 4x4 It is great practice to keep the same sized and brand
>of
>> >tires with similar tread wear on all 4 corners. I always do, But unless
>it
>> >is full time 4x4, or you are in the habit of running around in four wheel
>> >drive on dry pavement, it really is not that critical as long as the new
>> >tire is the same sized and brand as the other 3. If you have the locking
>> >rear end, make sure you have two "matching" on the rear axel.
>>
>> Yes, same brand and size. But tire size is nominal; small differences
>> occur within the same model.
>> Ever see race teams measure their tires with an eye to placing the
>> different sizes on different corners to improve handling? And these
>> are racing tires; hand made, to be as uniform as possible. Tires
>> bought 'off the rack', so to speak, are not identical.
>> See above for the locking rear end thing.
>> >
>> >I have owned and driven 4x4 Ford trucks and Bronco's for 25 years. I
>always
>> >replace my tires in sets of 4, (the newest truck will be sets of 6 :-0)
>the
>> >only time I have lost a tire to a catastrophic failure and have not had
>all
>> >4 tires last the life of the set, was when I punched 2 separate sidewalls
>on
>> >two consecutive weekends on a fairly new set of tires. These tires were
>> >purchased from Les Schwab tires, a regional North West dealer who has
>> >offered full on and off road, unlimited warranty which covers sidewall
>> >punctures since I have been driving, they replaced both for free.
>> >
>> >If you are not running around on dry pavement in four wheel drive, have
>the
>> >single new tire of the same brand and size put on the front and you will
>be
>> >fine.
>>
>> Why would anyone run around in four wheel drive on dry pavement?
>> 25 years?
>
>Duh! I don't, know, maybe they are driving a FULL-TIME 4x4, or who knows,
>but my point was, since the vast majority of 4x4's never drive around in
>four wheel drive on dry pavement, there would be no issues... Do you just
>generally have trouble with reading comprehension?
>
>> Not to sound like I'm making fun of you, but your post does not
>> reflect the experience of four-wheeling for 25 years.
>
>Your comments reflect embarrassing mechanical & reading comprehension... No
>number of years is likely to correct that...
>
>> >
>> >Good Luck
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> --
>> Bill Funk
>> Change "g" to "a"
>

--
Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"

"Big Bill" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 06:52:06 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
>
> >"Big Bill" > wrote in message
> .. .
> >> On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 23:28:24 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
> >>
> >> >
> >> >"Ocean" > wrote in message
> >> . com...
> >> >> My tire (rear/passenger side) got flat and the dealer told me it
can't
> >> >> be fixed for a safty reason. That's ok. However, he asked me to
> >> >> replace all tires in order to tune ABS and so forth cause it is
4WD(I
> >> >> know only a little about car). BTW, the car is a 2003 XLT. I bought
> >> >> this car last year and it is only less than 15K miles so far. Is
that
> >> >> a reasonable solution? I appreciate your suggestions!
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >If you have a locking rear end, you should have the same sized and
brand
> >of
> >> >tires with similar tread wear on both sides. Because, different sized
> >tires
> >> >will greatly increase the wear and tear on your locking assembly
> >(clutches)
> >> >because the tires are unable to spin at the same rate.
> >>
> >> A locking rear end should not be locked unless traction is poor enough
> >> to allow the tires to slip. This means that even with the diff locked,
> >> a minor difference in tire circumference won't matter.
> >> >
> >
> >BULL****!
> >Obviously you have Zero experience with locking rearends. They lock
> >according to the TORQUE being applied to them. They have ZERO input as to
> >the condition of the traction!!! You stomp the gas both axels are locked
and
> >driven, regardless of traction conditions. DUH!
>
> And, pray tell, on pavement, how much time does your locker spend
> locked?
> Use a little common sense.

Generally every time you take off with more then 1/4 throttle...
That for many drivers is every time the start from a stand still.

If you are going to correct someone you really ought to understand what the
hell you are talking about...


> >
> >I currently have Four 4x4's and 3 cars that have locking rearends. I have
> >rebuilt and set up more rearends then you have owned in your lifetime. I
> >have worn out, twisted 31 spine axels, stripped the axel splines off and
> >even grenaded a couple Ford 9 inch rearends. I have a thorough
understanding
> >of the design and function from the inside out.
> >
> >If you are going to correct someone you really ought to understand what
the
> >hell you are talking about...
> >
> >
> >> >If you have a 4x4 It is great practice to keep the same sized and
brand
> >of
> >> >tires with similar tread wear on all 4 corners. I always do, But
unless
> >it
> >> >is full time 4x4, or you are in the habit of running around in four
wheel
> >> >drive on dry pavement, it really is not that critical as long as the
new
> >> >tire is the same sized and brand as the other 3. If you have the
locking
> >> >rear end, make sure you have two "matching" on the rear axel.
> >>
> >> Yes, same brand and size. But tire size is nominal; small differences
> >> occur within the same model.
> >> Ever see race teams measure their tires with an eye to placing the
> >> different sizes on different corners to improve handling? And these
> >> are racing tires; hand made, to be as uniform as possible. Tires
> >> bought 'off the rack', so to speak, are not identical.
> >> See above for the locking rear end thing.
> >> >
> >> >I have owned and driven 4x4 Ford trucks and Bronco's for 25 years. I
> >always
> >> >replace my tires in sets of 4, (the newest truck will be sets of 6
:-0)
> >the
> >> >only time I have lost a tire to a catastrophic failure and have not
had
> >all
> >> >4 tires last the life of the set, was when I punched 2 separate
sidewalls
> >on
> >> >two consecutive weekends on a fairly new set of tires. These tires
were
> >> >purchased from Les Schwab tires, a regional North West dealer who has
> >> >offered full on and off road, unlimited warranty which covers sidewall
> >> >punctures since I have been driving, they replaced both for free.
> >> >
> >> >If you are not running around on dry pavement in four wheel drive,
have
> >the
> >> >single new tire of the same brand and size put on the front and you
will
> >be
> >> >fine.
> >>
> >> Why would anyone run around in four wheel drive on dry pavement?
> >> 25 years?
> >
> >Duh! I don't, know, maybe they are driving a FULL-TIME 4x4, or who
knows,
> >but my point was, since the vast majority of 4x4's never drive around in
> >four wheel drive on dry pavement, there would be no issues... Do you
just
> >generally have trouble with reading comprehension?
> >
> >> Not to sound like I'm making fun of you, but your post does not
> >> reflect the experience of four-wheeling for 25 years.
> >
> >Your comments reflect embarrassing mechanical & reading comprehension...
No
> >number of years is likely to correct that...
> >
> >> >
> >> >Good Luck
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> --
> >> Bill Funk
> >> Change "g" to "a"
> >
>
> --
> Bill Funk
> Change "g" to "a"

Previously in rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer, Big Bill
> proclaimed :

>On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 14:13:36 -0500, Capt Retardo and the Skidmarks
> wrote:
>
>>Previously in rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer, Janet
> proclaimed :
>>
>>>
>>>> "Ocean" > wrote in message
>>>> om...
>>>> > My tire (rear/passenger side) got flat and the dealer told me it can't
>>>> > be fixed for a safty reason. That's ok. However, he asked me to
>>>> > replace all tires in order to tune ABS and so forth cause it is 4WD(I
>>>> > know only a little about car). BTW, the car is a 2003 XLT. I bought
>>>> > this car last year and it is only less than 15K miles so far. Is that
>>>> > a reasonable solution? I appreciate your suggestions!
>>>>
>>>
>>>What I would do is buy a new tire to match, take the spare which should
>>>be new and put that on. This way you have two new tires on the same
>>>axle. Then I use the other that had 15k on it for the spare.
>>>
>>>Janet
>>
>>
>>unfortunately, the dealer is correct. In a 4wd system, *all* tires
>>must be replaced. The uneven tread depth that a new tire would
>>can really mess up your 4x4 drive train.
>>
>>If you never put the vehicle in 4x4 then it isn't an issue.
>
>Nope.
>The differential will take up any such minor differences in tire
>circunference.
>And since 4x4 should only be used when the tires can slip anyway,
>that's *really* not true.


this took all of 2 minutes to find. There's dozens of resources out
there that say the same thing:


http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...chingtires.jsp


__________________________________________________ ________________________

People are more violently opposed to fur than leather because it's
safer to harass rich women than motorcycle gangs.
-Unknown
__________________________________________________ ________________________
Remove "die spammers" to email

"AZGuy" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 18:19:34 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
>
> >
> >"Big Bill" > wrote in message
> .. .
> >> On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 06:52:06 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
> >>
> >> >"Big Bill" > wrote in message
> >> .. .
> >> >> On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 23:28:24 GMT, "351CJ" > wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >
> >> >> >"Ocean" > wrote in message
> >> >> . com...
> >> >> >> My tire (rear/passenger side) got flat and the dealer told me it
> >can't
> >> >> >> be fixed for a safty reason. That's ok. However, he asked me to
> >> >> >> replace all tires in order to tune ABS and so forth cause it is
> >4WD(I
> >> >> >> know only a little about car). BTW, the car is a 2003 XLT. I
bought
> >> >> >> this car last year and it is only less than 15K miles so far. Is
> >that
> >> >> >> a reasonable solution? I appreciate your suggestions!
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >If you have a locking rear end, you should have the same sized and
> >brand
> >> >of
> >> >> >tires with similar tread wear on both sides. Because, different
sized
> >> >tires
> >> >> >will greatly increase the wear and tear on your locking assembly
> >> >(clutches)
> >> >> >because the tires are unable to spin at the same rate.
> >> >>
> >> >> A locking rear end should not be locked unless traction is poor
enough
> >> >> to allow the tires to slip. This means that even with the diff
locked,
> >> >> a minor difference in tire circumference won't matter.
> >> >> >
> >> >
> >> >BULL****!
> >> >Obviously you have Zero experience with locking rearends. They lock
> >> >according to the TORQUE being applied to them. They have ZERO input as
to
> >> >the condition of the traction!!! You stomp the gas both axels are
locked
> >and
> >> >driven, regardless of traction conditions. DUH!
> >>
> >> And, pray tell, on pavement, how much time does your locker spend
> >> locked?
> >> Use a little common sense.
> >
> >Generally every time you take off with more then 1/4 throttle...
> >That for many drivers is every time the start from a stand still.
> >
>
> Please explain the mechanism that would cause this. On pavement, 1/4
> throttle won't cause any difference in tire slip between the two
> tires. No differential (between sides) slip = no lockup in any
> "Locking axle" I've driven. So how do you figure they lock up??
>

Do you have any clue how the clutch pack in a factory ford "locking" rear
end works, or even a conventional mechanical Detroit locker? Cause you
question doesn't indicate that you do...

Ford sells a Trac-Lok clutch-plate limited slip differential as a locking
differential, although it is not a true locker. They do not offer a true
locker, you would have to install or have that installed yourself. So if
you order you truck from Ford with a "locking differential", you really have
a Trac-Lok clutch-plate limited slip differential.

A conventional open differential sends equal amounts of torque to both axle
shafts. If one wheel spins because of lost traction, it is sustaining zero
engine torque, so zero engine torque is also going to the wheel with
traction. The most common limited slip differentials found in performance
cars and trucks are of the cone or clutch type. Many cone or clutch type
differentials use preload springs to help keep some tension on the unit at
all times. There is torque applied to both axels, not just when there is
slippage.

Limited Slips:
(LSD's) come in a variety of designs. Most use friction plates, cones and/or
gears to reduce slippage between each of the tires. these units have a dual
power path from the differential case to the axle shafts. some power is
transmitted through the spider gears to the side gears in the conventional
manner. The remainder is transmitted by friction between the differential
case and the clutch plates and the side gears. A certain amount of "clutch
preload" is built into the unit in a static condition. Then, as load is
applied to the differential, the separation forces between the spider gears
and the side gears increases this clutch loading. This increase in friction
provides for a good positive power flow from the case directly to the side
gears. When traction is available to both wheels, the power going to the
differential causes the plates to bind tightly together, giving even power
to both wheels. However, in a situation where there is little or no traction
available to either one wheel or the other, the amount of power that can be
transmitted to the other wheel which has traction is dependent on the
friction or "preload" in the clutch plates. High levels of "clutch preload"
will result in good torque transfer but some chattering of the clutches
during cornering may occur. Lower levels of preload results in minimal
chatter but reduced levels of torque transfer to the wheel with traction.
Because LSD's restrict true differential action, tire wear is accelerated.
Changes in vehicle handling may also occur, particularly in short wheelbase
vehicles. Wear rates on limited slip differentials are generally higher than
on other types due to the reliance on friction to reduce wheel slippage.
Also, special lubricants may be required to minimize rough and noisy
operation.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...erComparo.html

>
>
> >If you are going to correct someone you really ought to understand what
the
> >hell you are talking about...
> >
> >
> >> >
> >> >I currently have Four 4x4's and 3 cars that have locking rearends. I
have
> >> >rebuilt and set up more rearends then you have owned in your lifetime.
I
> >> >have worn out, twisted 31 spine axels, stripped the axel splines off
and
> >> >even grenaded a couple Ford 9 inch rearends. I have a thorough
> >understanding
> >> >of the design and function from the inside out.
> >> >
> >> >If you are going to correct someone you really ought to understand
what
> >the
> >> >hell you are talking about...
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> >If you have a 4x4 It is great practice to keep the same sized and
> >brand
> >> >of
> >> >> >tires with similar tread wear on all 4 corners. I always do, But
> >unless
> >> >it
> >> >> >is full time 4x4, or you are in the habit of running around in four
> >wheel
> >> >> >drive on dry pavement, it really is not that critical as long as
the
> >new
> >> >> >tire is the same sized and brand as the other 3. If you have the
> >locking
> >> >> >rear end, make sure you have two "matching" on the rear axel.
> >> >>
> >> >> Yes, same brand and size. But tire size is nominal; small
differences
> >> >> occur within the same model.
> >> >> Ever see race teams measure their tires with an eye to placing the
> >> >> different sizes on different corners to improve handling? And these
> >> >> are racing tires; hand made, to be as uniform as possible. Tires
> >> >> bought 'off the rack', so to speak, are not identical.
> >> >> See above for the locking rear end thing.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I have owned and driven 4x4 Ford trucks and Bronco's for 25 years.
I
> >> >always
> >> >> >replace my tires in sets of 4, (the newest truck will be sets of 6
> >:-0)
> >> >the
> >> >> >only time I have lost a tire to a catastrophic failure and have not
> >had
> >> >all
> >> >> >4 tires last the life of the set, was when I punched 2 separate
> >sidewalls
> >> >on
> >> >> >two consecutive weekends on a fairly new set of tires. These tires
> >were
> >> >> >purchased from Les Schwab tires, a regional North West dealer who
has
> >> >> >offered full on and off road, unlimited warranty which covers
sidewall
> >> >> >punctures since I have been driving, they replaced both for free.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >If you are not running around on dry pavement in four wheel drive,
> >have
> >> >the
> >> >> >single new tire of the same brand and size put on the front and you
> >will
> >> >be
> >> >> >fine.
> >> >>
> >> >> Why would anyone run around in four wheel drive on dry pavement?
> >> >> 25 years?
> >> >
> >> >Duh! I don't, know, maybe they are driving a FULL-TIME 4x4, or who
> >knows,
> >> >but my point was, since the vast majority of 4x4's never drive around
in
> >> >four wheel drive on dry pavement, there would be no issues... Do you
> >just
> >> >generally have trouble with reading comprehension?
> >> >
> >> >> Not to sound like I'm making fun of you, but your post does not
> >> >> reflect the experience of four-wheeling for 25 years.
> >> >
> >> >Your comments reflect embarrassing mechanical & reading
comprehension...
> >No
> >> >number of years is likely to correct that...
> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Good Luck
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >> Bill Funk
> >> >> Change "g" to "a"
> >> >
> >>
> >> --
> >> Bill Funk
> >> Change "g" to "a"
> >
>
> --
> Elbridge Gerry, of Massachusetts:
>
> "What, sir, is the use of militia? It is to prevent the
> establishment of a standing army, the bane of liberty. . .
> Whenever Government means to invade the rights and liberties of
> the people, they always attempt to destroy the militia, in order
> to raise a standing army upon its ruins." -- Debate, U.S. House
> of Representatives, August 17, 1789

Capt Retardo and the Skidmarks wrote:

>
> this took all of 2 minutes to find. There's dozens of resources out
> there that say the same thing:
>
>
> http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...chingtires.jsp
>

That's an interesting article but I fail to understand the actual theory
behind their claim:

"As an example of different tire diameters resulting from tires worn to
different tread depths,..."
"While the difference of 1/8" in overall diameter doesn't seem
excessive, the resulting 4 revolutions per mile difference can place a
continuous strain on the tires and vehicle's driveline. Obviously, the
greater the difference in the tires' circumferences, the greater the
resulting strain"

In the above example, the difference in rotation at 60mph would amount
to 4 rpm. If you have 4WD then the the front axle is disconnected from
the driveline on the roadway anyway. If you have AWD then the transfer
case is viscous coupled, which allows slippage between the front and
rear axles. So difference in wear between front and rear axles is
insignificant.

If you have open diffs then the amount of difference in rotational speed
between wheels on teh ame axle is also of no consequence. Even if you
have limited slip diffs, slippage between two wheels on the same axle at
4 rpm is hardly anything compared to the amount of slippage that occurs
normally when steering. I cannot see where this would put undue
"strain" on anything.

Obviously if you put a different sized tire on, or a different
manufacturer the differences in circumference wiould be magnified and at
some point *could* be significant.

It sounds to me like this theory is in the best interest of tire
merchants or services that perform "shaving" to match the diameters.

I'd be interested in some hard evidence that shows a cause and effect
relationship of worn driveline parts and slightly mismatched tires such
as what one would expect from wear.

-Fred W

Thanks for posting this link, very interesting article. Also explains
why Ford recommends rotating tires so often.

On Tue, 07 Dec 2004 13:20:57 -0500, Fred W
> wrote:

>Capt Retardo and the Skidmarks wrote:
>
>>
>> this took all of 2 minutes to find. There's dozens of resources out
>> there that say the same thing:
>>
>>
>> http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...chingtires.jsp
>>
>
>That's an interesting article but I fail to understand the actual theory
>behind their claim:
>
>"As an example of different tire diameters resulting from tires worn to
>different tread depths,..."
>"While the difference of 1/8" in overall diameter doesn't seem
>excessive, the resulting 4 revolutions per mile difference can place a
>continuous strain on the tires and vehicle's driveline. Obviously, the
>greater the difference in the tires' circumferences, the greater the
>resulting strain"
>
>In the above example, the difference in rotation at 60mph would amount
>to 4 rpm. If you have 4WD then the the front axle is disconnected from
>the driveline on the roadway anyway. If you have AWD then the transfer
>case is viscous coupled, which allows slippage between the front and
>rear axles. So difference in wear between front and rear axles is
>insignificant.
>
>If you have open diffs then the amount of difference in rotational speed
>between wheels on teh ame axle is also of no consequence. Even if you
>have limited slip diffs, slippage between two wheels on the same axle at
>4 rpm is hardly anything compared to the amount of slippage that occurs
>normally when steering. I cannot see where this would put undue
>"strain" on anything.
>
>Obviously if you put a different sized tire on, or a different
>manufacturer the differences in circumference wiould be magnified and at
>some point *could* be significant.
>
>It sounds to me like this theory is in the best interest of tire
>merchants or services that perform "shaving" to match the diameters.
>
>I'd be interested in some hard evidence that shows a cause and effect
>relationship of worn driveline parts and slightly mismatched tires such
>as what one would expect from wear.
>
>-Fred W