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#1
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idle speed control motor
I have a 93 dodge shadow 2.2. Lately when i start it up, it won't ilde or
when i go to put in gear it dies, but if i give it a little gas when i start it and put in gear it won't die. Once i get going it does fine. I had auto zone do a code check on it. According to what they found out, it's code 26 i beleive, idle speed control motor short ciruit. they said i needed to check with a dealership to get a new one, and i did. I was just wondering if i could find one a little cheaper than the dealership, and if i can, could someone please tell me where..... and also how would i have someone replace it without having to pay the mechanic at the dealership... any help would be greatly appreciated.... thanks |
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#2
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On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 04:01:55 -0400, temptress2972 wrote:
> it's code 26 i beleive, idle speed control motor short ciruit. they said > i needed to check with a dealership to get a new one, and i did. I was > just wondering if i could find one a little cheaper than the dealership, > and if i can, could someone please tell me where..... I've spent the past 40 minutes retyping this and I realized I was putting WAY too much info in, so if you want more info, just ask. To answer your question is very easy. In a word: Junkyards. I know, we're talking "used" parts and "used" could really mean anything, plus parts are sold as-is and rarely will you find a warranty on non-working parts from an inexpensive yard, but the only parts that I have had any trouble with from junkyards were those that were made of plastic (especially ABS plastic) -- heat from the sun makes them brittle and they break too easily. Usually not a problem for underhood parts, though; it's mostly interiors. Still, for engine parts, you'll usually do fine at a yard. Just try to look for a car that has been wrecked. That means the car was on the road and the engine worked, otherwise, how could it have gotten in a wreck? Even front-impact will do for throttle-body and other intake/exhaust/fuel system parts. Just avoid ignition parts like distributor caps and rotors, ignition coils, plug wires, etc. Those are too inexpensive to not buy new from an auto parts store. Get your mechanical parts from the yard though: starters (you'll want to rebuild them, but it's *NOT* hard at all, and only costs about $4 for the contacts), distributors, water pumps... basically anything that doesn't have moving parts inside it, and even some that do. What's better is that many yards will find and remove the necessary part for you, but they do charge a fee, and I'm not sure if they get your hardware for you too or not. Your only other alternative is parts stores. Some stores specialize in different makes, some specialize in riceboy ****, and others are fairly general. I prefer Discount/Advance auto parts first, then AutoZone. When all else fails go to Pep Boys, but you might rather just get your parts from NAPA instead of dealing with them. Their prices aren't horrible, but their quality is questionable and they're usually the most expensive parts house in my area next to NAPA. NAPA is usually the most expensive here, next to the dealer. The dealer gets their parts from NAPA here anyway, so to buy from the dealer, you get the same thing as you get from NAPA -- just in a different box and slightly less expensive. Good luck getting NAPA to install it, though ;-) So, first to last, for me (assuming no junkyard option): Advance, Autozone, NAPA, Dealer, Pep Boys. > and also how would i have someone replace it without having to pay the > mechanic at the dealership... any help would be greatly appreciated.... > thanks After buying your new/used AIS motor, you'll also need some tools -- if you don't have some, ***BUY SOME***. Try to get Craftsman (from Sears) or Husky (from Home Depot) -- good warranties there. If you don't want to buy some tools *AND* do your own work, then pay someone else to install your AIS motor for you. Whether it be Pep Boys, the Dealer, or any of the no-doubt DOZENS of auto garages in your area. Your choice: invest about $125 to $150 in tools and some $20 to $100 for a box to put them in, or, pay $100+ every time some little hose cracks or some little circuit breaks. The tools you only buy once. The knowledge stays with you for life. The experience is free. Knowing you did it yourself is priceless. Knowing you did it yourself, it lasting for 10+ years, and being able to pawn it off to your kids for only around $500 DIY compared to around 2 or 3 thousand dollars to have someone else always fix it....... I could be wrong, but it's worked for me. Of course, I was fortunate enough to inherit my grandfather's tools (my dad already had his own), but had I not done that, they probably would have set me back about $150 or so, including an inexpensive plastic toolbox and ratchet case. Plus, I can do almost any repair short of an overhaul or suspension replacement with that $150 worth of tools. Not a bad investment. Your call. HIH. AFAIK, YMMV. CJ |
#3
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On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 04:01:55 -0400, temptress2972 wrote:
> it's code 26 i beleive, idle speed control motor short ciruit. they said > i needed to check with a dealership to get a new one, and i did. I was > just wondering if i could find one a little cheaper than the dealership, > and if i can, could someone please tell me where..... I've spent the past 40 minutes retyping this and I realized I was putting WAY too much info in, so if you want more info, just ask. To answer your question is very easy. In a word: Junkyards. I know, we're talking "used" parts and "used" could really mean anything, plus parts are sold as-is and rarely will you find a warranty on non-working parts from an inexpensive yard, but the only parts that I have had any trouble with from junkyards were those that were made of plastic (especially ABS plastic) -- heat from the sun makes them brittle and they break too easily. Usually not a problem for underhood parts, though; it's mostly interiors. Still, for engine parts, you'll usually do fine at a yard. Just try to look for a car that has been wrecked. That means the car was on the road and the engine worked, otherwise, how could it have gotten in a wreck? Even front-impact will do for throttle-body and other intake/exhaust/fuel system parts. Just avoid ignition parts like distributor caps and rotors, ignition coils, plug wires, etc. Those are too inexpensive to not buy new from an auto parts store. Get your mechanical parts from the yard though: starters (you'll want to rebuild them, but it's *NOT* hard at all, and only costs about $4 for the contacts), distributors, water pumps... basically anything that doesn't have moving parts inside it, and even some that do. What's better is that many yards will find and remove the necessary part for you, but they do charge a fee, and I'm not sure if they get your hardware for you too or not. Your only other alternative is parts stores. Some stores specialize in different makes, some specialize in riceboy ****, and others are fairly general. I prefer Discount/Advance auto parts first, then AutoZone. When all else fails go to Pep Boys, but you might rather just get your parts from NAPA instead of dealing with them. Their prices aren't horrible, but their quality is questionable and they're usually the most expensive parts house in my area next to NAPA. NAPA is usually the most expensive here, next to the dealer. The dealer gets their parts from NAPA here anyway, so to buy from the dealer, you get the same thing as you get from NAPA -- just in a different box and slightly less expensive. Good luck getting NAPA to install it, though ;-) So, first to last, for me (assuming no junkyard option): Advance, Autozone, NAPA, Dealer, Pep Boys. > and also how would i have someone replace it without having to pay the > mechanic at the dealership... any help would be greatly appreciated.... > thanks After buying your new/used AIS motor, you'll also need some tools -- if you don't have some, ***BUY SOME***. Try to get Craftsman (from Sears) or Husky (from Home Depot) -- good warranties there. If you don't want to buy some tools *AND* do your own work, then pay someone else to install your AIS motor for you. Whether it be Pep Boys, the Dealer, or any of the no-doubt DOZENS of auto garages in your area. Your choice: invest about $125 to $150 in tools and some $20 to $100 for a box to put them in, or, pay $100+ every time some little hose cracks or some little circuit breaks. The tools you only buy once. The knowledge stays with you for life. The experience is free. Knowing you did it yourself is priceless. Knowing you did it yourself, it lasting for 10+ years, and being able to pawn it off to your kids for only around $500 DIY compared to around 2 or 3 thousand dollars to have someone else always fix it....... I could be wrong, but it's worked for me. Of course, I was fortunate enough to inherit my grandfather's tools (my dad already had his own), but had I not done that, they probably would have set me back about $150 or so, including an inexpensive plastic toolbox and ratchet case. Plus, I can do almost any repair short of an overhaul or suspension replacement with that $150 worth of tools. Not a bad investment. Your call. HIH. AFAIK, YMMV. CJ |
#4
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When this happened in my 1988 Aries with the 2.5, another idle motor did not
help. The indicated fault was a short circuit which was traced to a short in the wiring harness. This was fixed with 10 cents worth of tape (and $100.00 of dealer labor). Dan |
#5
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When this happened in my 1988 Aries with the 2.5, another idle motor did not
help. The indicated fault was a short circuit which was traced to a short in the wiring harness. This was fixed with 10 cents worth of tape (and $100.00 of dealer labor). Dan |
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