'94 Acclaim - No Headlights in Cold Weather

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005, Gary Kaucher wrote:

> I will see if I can find the ground wires

They are the leftmost wires leading into the headlamp sockets (rightmost
socket slot if you remove the socket and look into it)

> I have a voltmeter. I suppose I would be testing for continuity

Well, when the headlamps fail to turn on, leave the switch in the "on"
position, put your voltmeter's negative probe onto a good ground (e.g.
battery negative) and probe the middle and left socket slots (removed from
bulb) looking for ~12v. If you don't see it, your headlamp and/or beam
selector switch(es) is/are faulty, or there's a fault in the wiring
between them and the lamps.

> The bill from the mechanic says "headlamp relay", but maybe he meant
> "headlamp switch". I did see something about headlamp relays at
> https://www.rockauto.com for the 1994 Plymouth Acclaim

Shows two items: The first listing is for rear defogger and A/C
applications in the AA-bodies (Spirit, Acclaim, LeBaron sedan). It is used
for headlamp duty in certain other '94 Chrysler products. The second
listing (the round item) is the under-dash thermal timer that controls the
"halo" light around the ignition switch.

> Another possibility is that he replaced a completely different relay. I
> think there is one between the coil and the PCM that causes electrical
> problems.

That would be the ASD relay -- nothing to do with the headlamps.

DS

"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
...
> On Sun, 11 Dec 2005, Gary Kaucher wrote:
>
> > I will see if I can find the ground wires
>
> They are the leftmost wires leading into the headlamp sockets (rightmost
> socket slot if you remove the socket and look into it)
>
> > I have a voltmeter. I suppose I would be testing for continuity
>
> Well, when the headlamps fail to turn on, leave the switch in the "on"
> position, put your voltmeter's negative probe onto a good ground (e.g.
> battery negative) and probe the middle and left socket slots (removed from
> bulb) looking for ~12v. If you don't see it, your headlamp and/or beam
> selector switch(es) is/are faulty, or there's a fault in the wiring
> between them and the lamps.



Yesterday morning, the outside temperature went down to 7 degrees
Fahrenheit. Despite this, the headlights worked fine. It didn't go above
freezing all day, and this morning it was 4 degrees Fahrenheit and the
headlamps won't work at all. The parking lights come on, but no headlights,
high or low. I found my old voltmeter and confirmed that it worked (12 volts
across the battery terminals - no problem). I turned on the beam selector
switch and removed the plug from behind each bulb and probed the sockets,
using the negative battery terminal as a ground. In all cases, I get no
needle deflection.

I don't see any noticeable wire damage or disruption in the immediate area
of the headlamps. I will find out if my mechanic already changed the
headlamp switch and incorrectly called it a "headlamp relay". If so, then
maybe the beam selector switch is the problem.

I also tried your suggestion of pulling back on the turn signal with the
beam selector switch turned on, and the headlights still didn't turn on.

"Gary Kaucher" > wrote in message
...
> "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
> ...
> > On Sun, 11 Dec 2005, Gary Kaucher wrote:
> >
> > > I will see if I can find the ground wires
> >
> > They are the leftmost wires leading into the headlamp sockets (rightmost
> > socket slot if you remove the socket and look into it)
> >
> > > I have a voltmeter. I suppose I would be testing for continuity
> >
> > Well, when the headlamps fail to turn on, leave the switch in the "on"
> > position, put your voltmeter's negative probe onto a good ground (e.g.
> > battery negative) and probe the middle and left socket slots (removed
from
> > bulb) looking for ~12v. If you don't see it, your headlamp and/or beam
> > selector switch(es) is/are faulty, or there's a fault in the wiring
> > between them and the lamps.
>
>
>
> Yesterday morning, the outside temperature went down to 7 degrees
> Fahrenheit. Despite this, the headlights worked fine. It didn't go above
> freezing all day, and this morning it was 4 degrees Fahrenheit and the
> headlamps won't work at all. The parking lights come on, but no
headlights,
> high or low. I found my old voltmeter and confirmed that it worked (12
volts
> across the battery terminals - no problem). I turned on the beam selector
> switch and removed the plug from behind each bulb and probed the sockets,
> using the negative battery terminal as a ground. In all cases, I get no
> needle deflection.
>
> I don't see any noticeable wire damage or disruption in the immediate area
> of the headlamps. I will find out if my mechanic already changed the
> headlamp switch and incorrectly called it a "headlamp relay". If so, then
> maybe the beam selector switch is the problem.
>
> I also tried your suggestion of pulling back on the turn signal with the
> beam selector switch turned on, and the headlights still didn't turn on.
>
>

I spoke to my mechanic. He said that he had previously replaced a headlamp
relay, not the headlamp switch. The headlamp relay that he replaced
apparently has something to do with the low beams, but it is quite possible
that he replaced that relay for reasons unrelated to headlights. That was
when he fixed the problems that gave me the 41 fault code.

I really think (hope) that problem is gone and that this problem might just
be the headlight switch. Is there some way I can use my voltmeter to
determine if it is the headlight switch or beam selector switch? Thanks for
your help in understanding this.

Gary Kaucher wrote:
>
> "Gary Kaucher" > wrote in message
> ...
> > "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > On Sun, 11 Dec 2005, Gary Kaucher wrote:
> > >
> > > > I will see if I can find the ground wires
> > >
> > > They are the leftmost wires leading into the headlamp sockets (rightmost
> > > socket slot if you remove the socket and look into it)
> > >
> > > > I have a voltmeter. I suppose I would be testing for continuity
> > >
> > > Well, when the headlamps fail to turn on, leave the switch in the "on"
> > > position, put your voltmeter's negative probe onto a good ground (e.g.
> > > battery negative) and probe the middle and left socket slots (removed
> from
> > > bulb) looking for ~12v. If you don't see it, your headlamp and/or beam
> > > selector switch(es) is/are faulty, or there's a fault in the wiring
> > > between them and the lamps.
> >
> >
> >
> > Yesterday morning, the outside temperature went down to 7 degrees
> > Fahrenheit. Despite this, the headlights worked fine. It didn't go above
> > freezing all day, and this morning it was 4 degrees Fahrenheit and the
> > headlamps won't work at all. The parking lights come on, but no
> headlights,
> > high or low. I found my old voltmeter and confirmed that it worked (12
> volts
> > across the battery terminals - no problem). I turned on the beam selector
> > switch and removed the plug from behind each bulb and probed the sockets,
> > using the negative battery terminal as a ground. In all cases, I get no
> > needle deflection.
> >
> > I don't see any noticeable wire damage or disruption in the immediate area
> > of the headlamps. I will find out if my mechanic already changed the
> > headlamp switch and incorrectly called it a "headlamp relay". If so, then
> > maybe the beam selector switch is the problem.
> >
> > I also tried your suggestion of pulling back on the turn signal with the
> > beam selector switch turned on, and the headlights still didn't turn on.
> >
> >
>
> I spoke to my mechanic. He said that he had previously replaced a headlamp
> relay, not the headlamp switch. The headlamp relay that he replaced
> apparently has something to do with the low beams, but it is quite possible
> that he replaced that relay for reasons unrelated to headlights. That was
> when he fixed the problems that gave me the 41 fault code.
>
> I really think (hope) that problem is gone and that this problem might just
> be the headlight switch. Is there some way I can use my voltmeter to
> determine if it is the headlight switch or beam selector switch? Thanks for
> your help in understanding this.

You need to locate the relay and see if it clicks every time the
headlight switch is turned on. If it doesn't click, then you need to
probe the socket with your meter or preferably just swap it with another
relay. The relays will interchange if the numbers on the pins are the
same.

The power you would be looking for with the switch on would be on pin 86
if it is a standard Bosch style relay. With the headlight switch off,
the power to pin 86 will be off. You can put the meter in pinhole 85
and 86 and when the switch is on, you should see 12 volts there.

A dirty or rusty connection on the relay will cause your symptoms.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005, Gary Kaucher wrote:

> I found my old voltmeter and confirmed that it worked (12 volts across
> the battery terminals - no problem). I turned on the beam selector
> switch and removed the plug from behind each bulb and probed the
> sockets, using the negative battery terminal as a ground. In all cases,
> I get no needle deflection.

OK, that's good info.

> I also tried your suggestion of pulling back on the turn signal with the
> beam selector switch turned on, and the headlights still didn't turn on.

OK, more good info.

> I spoke to my mechanic. He said that he had previously replaced a
> headlamp relay, not the headlamp switch. The headlamp relay that he
> replaced apparently has something to do with the low beams

There is STILL no headlamp relay in a 1994 Acclaim, as delivered from the
factory. Here are the wiring diagrams:

http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9..._HLSwitch1.gif
http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9..._HLSwitch2.gif
http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9...4AA_HLLeft.gif
http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9...AA_HLRight.gif

The first diagram shows the headlamp switch and all its connections.

The second diagram shows the multifunction switch (beam selector, turn
signal, windshield wiper) and all its connections.

The third and fourth diagrams show the left and right headlamps and their
connections.

There is no relay present in any of these diagrams, just as there is no
headlamp relay present on the vehicle unless somebody added one sometime
in the past.

Just right off the bat, we can eliminate certain problems. Note that the
headlamp switch's main feed is wire number A3, a 12ga red-and-white wire.
We know power's coming in on this wire and reaching the switch, for the
headlamps *sometimes* work, and even when they don't, the parking lamps
carry on working. Since the headlamp switch gets power to send to the
parking lamps from A3, we know this isn't the failure point.

Next wire to focus on is wire number L2, a 16ga light green wire that goes
from the headlamp switch to the multifunction switch. When the headlamps
refuse to work, if this wire meters out at 12v relative to good ground
with the headlamp switch on, then the headlamp switch is not the problem.
If this wire shows no voltage under those conditions, the headlamp switch
is faulty.

Next wire to focus on is wire number L4, a 16ga purple/white wire
connected to the multifunction switch. When the headlamps refuse to work,
if this wire meters out at 12v relative to good ground with the headlamp
switch on, alternating on and off when you click the lever back and forth
between low and high beam positions, then the multifunction switch is not
the problem. If this wire shows no voltage under those conditions, then
the multifunction switch is faulty.

Next item down the line is fuses numbered 3 and 4, which respectively feed
the left and right low beams. It would be most unusual to find a problem
here.

> but it is quite possible that he replaced that relay for reasons
> unrelated to headlights.

Headlamp relays have one function: To control the headlamps. Your car
didn't have a headlamp relay from the factory, so unless someone added one
at some point in the past, your mechanic doesn't know what the hell he's
talking about. The only relay in the lighting system of a '94 Acclaim
would be a fog lamp relay, if your '94 is one of the very few that came
with fog lamps. The fog lamp relay's failure would not prevent the
headlamps working.

> I really think (hope) that problem is gone and that this problem might
> just be the headlight switch.

I really think it is either the headlamp switch or the multifunction
switch.

> Is there some way I can use my voltmeter to determine if it is the
> headlight switch or beam selector switch?

See above.

Daniel J. Stern wrote:
> There is STILL no headlamp relay in a 1994 Acclaim, as delivered from the
> factory. Here are the wiring diagrams:
>
> http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9..._HLSwitch1.gif
> http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9..._HLSwitch2.gif
> http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9...4AA_HLLeft.gif
> http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9...AA_HLRight.gif

This is the best display of diagrams I have seen. You set this up as a
toggle between regular size and a big, expanded size of the diagram. I
just click the mouse and it toggles regular and large size. It would be
nice if this is a new trend for showing diagrams over the internet
rather than separate frames. I had not noticed this before anywhere
else. This is the quickest way and easiest to follow tracing a circuit
by zooming in and out.

"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
...
> On Wed, 14 Dec 2005, Gary Kaucher wrote:
>
> > I found my old voltmeter and confirmed that it worked (12 volts across
> > the battery terminals - no problem). I turned on the beam selector
> > switch and removed the plug from behind each bulb and probed the
> > sockets, using the negative battery terminal as a ground. In all cases,
> > I get no needle deflection.
>
> OK, that's good info.
>
> > I also tried your suggestion of pulling back on the turn signal with the
> > beam selector switch turned on, and the headlights still didn't turn on.
>
> OK, more good info.
>
> > I spoke to my mechanic. He said that he had previously replaced a
> > headlamp relay, not the headlamp switch. The headlamp relay that he
> > replaced apparently has something to do with the low beams
>
> There is STILL no headlamp relay in a 1994 Acclaim, as delivered from the
> factory. Here are the wiring diagrams:
>
>
http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9..._HLSwitch1.gif
>
http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9..._HLSwitch2.gif
>
http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9...4AA_HLLeft.gif
>
http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/9...AA_HLRight.gif
>
> The first diagram shows the headlamp switch and all its connections.
>
> The second diagram shows the multifunction switch (beam selector, turn
> signal, windshield wiper) and all its connections.
>
> The third and fourth diagrams show the left and right headlamps and their
> connections.
>
> There is no relay present in any of these diagrams, just as there is no
> headlamp relay present on the vehicle unless somebody added one sometime
> in the past.
>
> Just right off the bat, we can eliminate certain problems. Note that the
> headlamp switch's main feed is wire number A3, a 12ga red-and-white wire.
> We know power's coming in on this wire and reaching the switch, for the
> headlamps *sometimes* work, and even when they don't, the parking lamps
> carry on working. Since the headlamp switch gets power to send to the
> parking lamps from A3, we know this isn't the failure point.
>
> Next wire to focus on is wire number L2, a 16ga light green wire that goes
> from the headlamp switch to the multifunction switch. When the headlamps
> refuse to work, if this wire meters out at 12v relative to good ground
> with the headlamp switch on, then the headlamp switch is not the problem.
> If this wire shows no voltage under those conditions, the headlamp switch
> is faulty.


Thanks for the drawings and explanations. I am a novice, but now I
understand what I have to look for,
and I may have a good opportunity to check this out soon. The morning
temperatures here in Pennsylvania
have been in the single digits lately, and my headlights only come on in
the afternoon.

Is there an easy way to access the headlamp switch? To take readings do I
remove the switch and probe sockets or do
I probe through the insulation into the wire?


> Next wire to focus on is wire number L4, a 16ga purple/white wire
> connected to the multifunction switch. When the headlamps refuse to work,
> if this wire meters out at 12v relative to good ground with the headlamp
> switch on, alternating on and off when you click the lever back and forth
> between low and high beam positions, then the multifunction switch is not
> the problem. If this wire shows no voltage under those conditions, then
> the multifunction switch is faulty.


Is there an easy way to access the multifunction switch? Is it located
somewhere on the steering column?



> Next item down the line is fuses numbered 3 and 4, which respectively feed
> the left and right low beams. It would be most unusual to find a problem
> here.
>
> > but it is quite possible that he replaced that relay for reasons
> > unrelated to headlights.
>
> Headlamp relays have one function: To control the headlamps. Your car
> didn't have a headlamp relay from the factory, so unless someone added one
> at some point in the past, your mechanic doesn't know what the hell he's
> talking about. The only relay in the lighting system of a '94 Acclaim
> would be a fog lamp relay, if your '94 is one of the very few that came
> with fog lamps. The fog lamp relay's failure would not prevent the
> headlamps working.
>
> > I really think (hope) that problem is gone and that this problem might
> > just be the headlight switch.
>
> I really think it is either the headlamp switch or the multifunction
> switch.
>
> > Is there some way I can use my voltmeter to determine if it is the
> > headlight switch or beam selector switch?
>
> See above.
>

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005, Gary Kaucher wrote:

> Thanks for the drawings and explanations. I am a novice, but now I
> understand what I have to look for, and I may have a good opportunity to
> check this out soon. The morning temperatures here in Pennsylvania have
> been in the single digits lately, and my headlights only come on in the
> afternoon.

I find myself wondering what happens if you start the car when cold, turn
the headlamps on (and they don't come on), turn the heater on full blast
and wait. Will the headlamps come on at some point?

> Is there an easy way to access the headlamp switch? To take readings do
> I remove the switch and probe sockets or do I probe through the
> insulation into the wire?

NEVER probe through the insulation!

To remove the headlamp switch:

-Remove the main dashboard trim panel surrounding the instrument cluster
and containing the two centre dash vents. This whole trim piece simply
pulls off; get your fingers under the inner edges adjacent to the
instrument cluster and pry it rearward until one or two of the clips
disengage, then move around the trim piece pulling carefully but firmly
rearward, and eventually the piece will pop free. Lift it away from the
dash and put it in the back seat.

-Remove the trim panel surrounding the headlamp switch. This, too, simply
pulls off.

-Remove the philips head screws holding the black plastic headlamp switch
panel to the dashboard. The panel and switch assembly can then be pulled
away from the dash. At this point you should be able to access the wires
plugged into the headlamp switch. You can 'backprobe' them (insert
voltmeter probe alongside the wire of interest, into its plug cavity,
making contact with its terminal without damaging the insulation).

If you need to replace the headlamp switch, carry on as follows:

-Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery.

-Find the small round-headed, spring-loaded pushbutton on the side or
bottom of the headlamp switch. Press and hold it in towards the headlamp
switch firmly (it helps to tape a coin to your finger or thumb). While
holding it in, firmly pull the headlamp knob until it disengages from the
switch and pulls free. Set it aside.

-Remove the headlamp switch from the switch panel.

Installation is the reverse of removal.


> Is there an easy way to access the multifunction switch? Is it located
> somewhere on the steering column?

It's not difficult, but you will need one special tool: A tamperproof Torx
driver (or tamperproof Torx driver bit). Size is either T15 or T20. A
regular Torx won't fit; it must be the tamperproof type which has a hole
in the centre of the driver or bit.

-Using the tamperproof Torx driver, remove the single screw located in the
middle of the bottom of the steering column cover.

-Using a conventional driver, remove the two or four fasteners located at
the corners of the bottom of the steering column cover.

-Grasp the bottom half of the steering column cover and pull it off of the
column if it does not drop off on its own. Set it aside.

-If the car is equipped with tilt steering wheel, grasp the tilt release
lever shaft carefully with pliers and unscrew it. Remove and set aside.

-Lift the top half of the steering column cover off and set it aside.

The multifunction switch is now exposed. Two screws hold it to the
steering column, and one screw secures its wiring plug.

Installation is the reverse of removal.


DS

> wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> This is the best display of diagrams I have seen. You set this up as a
> toggle between regular size and a big, expanded size of the diagram. I
> just click the mouse and it toggles regular and large size. It would be
> nice if this is a new trend for showing diagrams over the internet
> rather than separate frames. I had not noticed this before anywhere
> else. This is the quickest way and easiest to follow tracing a circuit
> by zooming in and out.
>
I hope you are joking and if you aren't the image zooming is a "feature"
built into internet explorer 6 whenever you load an image file that isn't
embedded into a web page. It shows up as a button in the lower right hand
corner of the image when you hover the mouse pointer over the image. To
turn it off you go to: Tools Menu>Internet Options>Advanced tab>scroll down
and "Enable Automatic Image Resizing" will be the first thing listed under
"Multimedia"

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005, Daniel Armstrong wrote:

> I hope you are joking and if you aren't the image zooming is a "feature"
> built into internet explorer 6

And the browsers used by those of us not so stupid as to use Exploder.