Home-built hybrid

Anyone trying this?

I've got a 96 Ford Escort wagon with another blown head gasket. Last
time this happened I had to replace the engine - aluminum cylinder block
& aluminum heads both warped when it overheated.

I'd like to convert this a home-built hybrid using an electric motor,
batteries and a small diesel engine.

I'm fairly proficient with tools, having rebuilt an MGB after a crash,
rebuilt the engine after the cylinder head cracked, rebuilt it again
after ... you get the picture.

Anyway, I've ordered a set of plans from Mother Earth News based on a
1979 article I remembered, but I'd like some input on doing this.

Particularly, I'd like to start with suggestions on a diesel engine;
size, number of cylinders, horsepower etc.

"no_name" > wrote

> Anyone trying this?

I might. But I need some help. See bottom.

> I've got a 96 Ford Escort wagon with another blown head gasket. Last
> time this happened I had to replace the engine - aluminum cylinder block
> & aluminum heads both warped when it overheated.
>
> I'd like to convert this a home-built hybrid using an electric motor,
> batteries and a small diesel engine.
>
> I'm fairly proficient with tools, having rebuilt an MGB after a crash,
> rebuilt the engine after the cylinder head cracked, rebuilt it again
> after ... you get the picture.
>
> Anyway, I've ordered a set of plans from Mother Earth News based on a
> 1979 article I remembered, but I'd like some input on doing this.
>
> Particularly, I'd like to start with suggestions on a diesel engine;
> size, number of cylinders, horsepower etc.

So, the small diesel engine indirectly provides the motive force of the
car. In other words it drives a generator to provide electricity to the
electric motor?

In the article he mentioned a pulser which is simply a combination of a
reworked car generator and an old fan motor which he can keep the
draw within limits and effectively control the car's acceleration.

What is this combination of a reworked car generator and an old fan motor?

Sam Nickaby wrote:
> "no_name" > wrote
>
>
>>Anyone trying this?
>
>
> I might. But I need some help. See bottom.
>
>
>>I've got a 96 Ford Escort wagon with another blown head gasket. Last
>>time this happened I had to replace the engine - aluminum cylinder block
>>& aluminum heads both warped when it overheated.
>>
>>I'd like to convert this a home-built hybrid using an electric motor,
>>batteries and a small diesel engine.
>>
>>I'm fairly proficient with tools, having rebuilt an MGB after a crash,
>>rebuilt the engine after the cylinder head cracked, rebuilt it again
>>after ... you get the picture.
>>
>>Anyway, I've ordered a set of plans from Mother Earth News based on a
>>1979 article I remembered, but I'd like some input on doing this.
>>
>>Particularly, I'd like to start with suggestions on a diesel engine;
>>size, number of cylinders, horsepower etc.
>
>
> So, the small diesel engine indirectly provides the motive force of the
> car. In other words it drives a generator to provide electricity to the
> electric motor?
>
> In the article he mentioned a pulser which is simply a combination of a
> reworked car generator and an old fan motor which he can keep the
> draw within limits and effectively control the car's acceleration.
>
> What is this combination of a reworked car generator and an old fan motor?
>
>
>
>
>
But the real technology is in the control electronics. One has to
generate a profile or schedule of the charging. When to start the IC
engine, when to turn it off, how to partition energy from generator
between driving vehicle and charging batteries.

The speed controller needs to be a bit more sophisticated than for a
pure electric, because it has to feed data to the scheduler/controller.
A good speed control has some pretty fancy high power semiconductors.

The electronics is what keeps me from trying this, even though I retired
a couple of years ago as an avionics engineer.

Sam Nickaby wrote:
> "no_name" > wrote
>
>
>>Anyone trying this?
>
>
> I might. But I need some help. See bottom.
>
>
>>I've got a 96 Ford Escort wagon with another blown head gasket. Last
>>time this happened I had to replace the engine - aluminum cylinder block
>>& aluminum heads both warped when it overheated.
>>
>>I'd like to convert this a home-built hybrid using an electric motor,
>>batteries and a small diesel engine.
>>
>>I'm fairly proficient with tools, having rebuilt an MGB after a crash,
>>rebuilt the engine after the cylinder head cracked, rebuilt it again
>>after ... you get the picture.
>>
>>Anyway, I've ordered a set of plans from Mother Earth News based on a
>>1979 article I remembered, but I'd like some input on doing this.
>>
>>Particularly, I'd like to start with suggestions on a diesel engine;
>>size, number of cylinders, horsepower etc.
>
>
> So, the small diesel engine indirectly provides the motive force of the
> car. In other words it drives a generator to provide electricity to the
> electric motor?
>
> In the article he mentioned a pulser which is simply a combination of a
> reworked car generator and an old fan motor which he can keep the
> draw within limits and effectively control the car's acceleration.
>
> What is this combination of a reworked car generator and an old fan motor?
>
>
>
>
>
But the real technology is in the control electronics. One has to
generate a profile or schedule of the charging. When to start the IC
engine, when to turn it off, how to partition energy from generator
between driving vehicle and charging batteries.

The speed controller needs to be a bit more sophisticated than for a
pure electric, because it has to feed data to the scheduler/controller.
A good speed control has some pretty fancy high power semiconductors.

The electronics is what keeps me from trying this, even though I retired
a couple of years ago as an avionics engineer.

"no_name" > wrote in message
...
> Anyone trying this?

It sounds like a fun project, but may run into some frustrations and money.

My son in Europe has an Escort station wagon that came with a little
diesel engine. It gets good mileage, is reliable, and is pretty darn peppy.
If I could get my hands on one of those little engines, I might forget the
hybrid concept.

Sam Nickaby wrote:

> "no_name" > wrote
>
>
>>Anyone trying this?
>
>
> I might. But I need some help. See bottom.
>
>
>>I've got a 96 Ford Escort wagon with another blown head gasket. Last
>>time this happened I had to replace the engine - aluminum cylinder block
>>& aluminum heads both warped when it overheated.
>>
>>I'd like to convert this a home-built hybrid using an electric motor,
>>batteries and a small diesel engine.
>>
>>I'm fairly proficient with tools, having rebuilt an MGB after a crash,
>>rebuilt the engine after the cylinder head cracked, rebuilt it again
>>after ... you get the picture.
>>
>>Anyway, I've ordered a set of plans from Mother Earth News based on a
>>1979 article I remembered, but I'd like some input on doing this.
>>
>>Particularly, I'd like to start with suggestions on a diesel engine;
>>size, number of cylinders, horsepower etc.
>
>
> So, the small diesel engine indirectly provides the motive force of the
> car. In other words it drives a generator to provide electricity to the
> electric motor?
>
> In the article he mentioned a pulser which is simply a combination of a
> reworked car generator and an old fan motor which he can keep the
> draw within limits and effectively control the car's acceleration.
>
> What is this combination of a reworked car generator and an old fan motor?
>

If I understood the article, the "pulser" was a mechanical control to
chop the DC when the motor was first starting to to keep it from drawing
too much current. Homebrew using 1979 junkyard technology.

I think it was some kind of rigged up rotary "on/off switch" to modulate
the current draw. The DC motor draws a lot of current when it's just
starting to spin, so he applies a little current & chops it off, applies
a little more current & chops it off ...

Instead of real DC you'd get something like:

_ _ _ _ _ 28 VDC
| | | | | | | | | |
_| |_| |_| |_| |_| |_ 0 VDC

Even though the motor draws a whole lot of current, it's prevented from
drawing too much by the repeated chopping of the voltage.

As the DC motor gets spun up, it draws less current to keep spinning and
the duty cycle of the chopper would increase so the current was on more
and more of the time.

From the DC motor's point of view, it starts out with a low voltage
that builds up as motor speed increases. And the initial low voltage
limits the current the motor draws.

But, that is, again, **If I understood the article ...**

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Alter...id_Electic_Car

"Don Stauffer" > wrote

> But the real technology is in the control electronics. One has to
> generate a profile or schedule of the charging. When to start the IC
> engine, when to turn it off, how to partition energy from generator
> between driving vehicle and charging batteries.
>
> The speed controller needs to be a bit more sophisticated than for a
> pure electric, because it has to feed data to the scheduler/controller.
> A good speed control has some pretty fancy high power semiconductors.
>
> The electronics is what keeps me from trying this, even though I retired
> a couple of years ago as an avionics engineer.

The solid state speed controller could cost up to $800. But, the rotary "on/off
switch" speed controller can be built at for $25.

"no_name" > wrote

> If I understood the article, the "pulser" was a mechanical control to
> chop the DC when the motor was first starting to to keep it from drawing
> too much current. Homebrew using 1979 junkyard technology.
>
> I think it was some kind of rigged up rotary "on/off switch" to modulate
> the current draw. The DC motor draws a lot of current when it's just
> starting to spin, so he applies a little current & chops it off, applies
> a little more current & chops it off ...
>
> Instead of real DC you'd get something like:
>
> _ _ _ _ _ 28 VDC
> | | | | | | | | | |
> _| |_| |_| |_| |_| |_ 0 VDC
>
> Even though the motor draws a whole lot of current, it's prevented from
> drawing too much by the repeated chopping of the voltage.
>
> As the DC motor gets spun up, it draws less current to keep spinning and
> the duty cycle of the chopper would increase so the current was on more
> and more of the time.
>
> From the DC motor's point of view, it starts out with a low voltage
> that builds up as motor speed increases. And the initial low voltage
> limits the current the motor draws.
>
> But, that is, again, **If I understood the article ...**
>
> http://www.motherearthnews.com/Alter...id_Electic_Car

Thanks. The rotary "on/off switch" is just what I was looking for. If I understand
correctly, this device is a mechanical one. I needed to built a mechanical controller
that I can fix when it breaks. A mechanical controller will produce a lot of arching
during acceleration which could build up a lot of heat. I'm not certain how I can
suppress the arching or cool it down.

> wrote in message et...
>
> "no_name" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Anyone trying this?
>
> It sounds like a fun project, but may run into some frustrations and money.
>
> My son in Europe has an Escort station wagon that came with a little
> diesel engine. It gets good mileage, is reliable, and is pretty darn peppy.
> If I could get my hands on one of those little engines, I might forget the
> hybrid concept.

The Lupo 3Liter TDI engine is a 3-cylinder diesel. Diesel makes sense if
you're in California - you don't need a smog inspection.

A hybrid is much more interesting that the motor can act as a generator during braking.
The battery can be charged at home using solar panels. Three deep cycle battery can
range up to 15-25 miles is pretty much my daily commute. In effect, I may never have
to go to a gas station.

Sam Nickaby wrote:

> "no_name" > wrote
>
>
>>If I understood the article, the "pulser" was a mechanical control to
>>chop the DC when the motor was first starting to to keep it from drawing
>>too much current. Homebrew using 1979 junkyard technology.
>>
>>I think it was some kind of rigged up rotary "on/off switch" to modulate
>>the current draw. The DC motor draws a lot of current when it's just
>>starting to spin, so he applies a little current & chops it off, applies
>>a little more current & chops it off ...
>>
>>Instead of real DC you'd get something like:
>>
>> _ _ _ _ _ 28 VDC
>> | | | | | | | | | |
>> _| |_| |_| |_| |_| |_ 0 VDC
>>
>>Even though the motor draws a whole lot of current, it's prevented from
>>drawing too much by the repeated chopping of the voltage.
>>
>>As the DC motor gets spun up, it draws less current to keep spinning and
>>the duty cycle of the chopper would increase so the current was on more
>>and more of the time.
>>
>> From the DC motor's point of view, it starts out with a low voltage
>>that builds up as motor speed increases. And the initial low voltage
>>limits the current the motor draws.
>>
>>But, that is, again, **If I understood the article ...**
>>
>>http://www.motherearthnews.com/Alter...id_Electic_Car
>
>
> Thanks. The rotary "on/off switch" is just what I was looking for. If I understand
> correctly, this device is a mechanical one. I needed to built a mechanical controller
> that I can fix when it breaks. A mechanical controller will produce a lot of arching
> during acceleration which could build up a lot of heat. I'm not certain how I can
> suppress the arching or cool it down.
>

Maybe when the plans get here there will be some explanation.