Cooling fan Problem

I have a 95 dodge Intreped. The cooling fan will not turn on and the fuse is
bad. I removed the colling fan and they both tested fine. I removed the high
and low relays and the air conditioner relay also removed the 40 Amp fuse
under the hood. After all this as soon as I turn the key with no fans or
relays pluged in the 10 amp fuse pops. any ideas

"wittrock" <u25623@uwe> wrote in message news:652db45fbd46d@uwe...
> I have a 95 dodge Intreped. The cooling fan will not turn on and the fuse
is
> bad. I removed the colling fan and they both tested fine. I removed the
high
> and low relays and the air conditioner relay also removed the 40 Amp fuse
> under the hood. After all this as soon as I turn the key with no fans or
> relays pluged in the 10 amp fuse pops. any ideas
>

Hmmm why not disconnect all on the circuit with..... a good fuse installed
and the key on, plug in one component at a time until you the fuse pops????
Being careful of those 10 fingers if the fans do turn on.

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

maxpower wrote:
>> I have a 95 dodge Intreped. The cooling fan will not turn on and the fuse is
>> bad. I removed the colling fan and they both tested fine. I removed the high
>> and low relays and the air conditioner relay also removed the 40 Amp fuse
>> under the hood. After all this as soon as I turn the key with no fans or
>> relays pluged in the 10 amp fuse pops. any ideas
>
>Hmmm why not disconnect all on the circuit with..... a good fuse installed
>and the key on, plug in one component at a time until you the fuse pops????
>Being careful of those 10 fingers if the fans do turn on.
>
>Glenn Beasley
>Chrysler Tech
I tried disconnecting some things and for no reason it started to work. I
drove the car the next day and it ran fine for 1/2 the day then the check
engine light came on again and I can tell it runs rough. I checked the codes
and I get a 33, 35, 31, and a 32. I unpluged the EGR solenoid and the
Canister purge solenoid The air conditioner and the fans. The 10 amp fuse
will still blow. I found that if I unplug a connector on the passenger side
by the firewall and fender. There is a group of connectors here when I unplug
the one on the top left the fuse will not pop. The car will not start also. I
had heard that the heating controlls can short out so I also disconected this
all with the same results. Help Please any more Ideas

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I have no idea what connector you are referring too. This vehicle is to old
and I dont have wire schematics. Make sure there are no wires touching the
tie rods on the steering rack under the air intake (snokel) hose.

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

"wittrock via CarKB.com" <u25623@uwe> wrote in message
news:657854c3b4148@uwe...
> maxpower wrote:
> I tried disconnecting some things and for no reason it started to work. I
> drove the car the next day and it ran fine for 1/2 the day then the check
> engine light came on again and I can tell it runs rough. I checked the
codes
> and I get a 33, 35, 31, and a 32. I unpluged the EGR solenoid and the
> Canister purge solenoid The air conditioner and the fans. The 10 amp fuse
> will still blow. I found that if I unplug a connector on the passenger
side
> by the firewall and fender. There is a group of connectors here when I
unplug
> the one on the top left the fuse will not pop. The car will not start
also. I
> had heard that the heating controlls can short out so I also disconected
this
> all with the same results. Help Please any more Ideas
>

This, I believe is "Engine Connector #2". (Black in color, with a White one
under it?)
If so, it contains wires for:

Idle Air Control
Charge Air Temp Sensor (Flex-Fuel only I believe)
Signal Reference (Sensor Ground)
5-Volt Output
Throttle Position Sensor
Map Sensor
Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
Camshaft Output Speed Signal (B+)
8-Volt Supply
Alternator Feed
Knock Sensor Signal (3.5L Only)

This is from the '94 Service manual... It can't be much different for the
'95... Good luck with this one! Unplug all the listed sensors, and then
plug back in one at a time, turning the ignition on after each one. The one
that blows the fuse is likely the faulty one... If none do, or it blows
even with all these unplugged, then I wish you luck!

I believe I have found the problem. I connected a meter to the fuse and
continued to pull connectors till the short went away. Again it pointed to
the group of connectors on the passenger side by the fender and firewall.
I found the individual wire that was shorting out by cutting each wire till
my meter no longer showed a short. I know this may not sound like a smart
move but I was desperate. The wire I found was a Black with a green stripe
that goes to the ERG selonoid. I had unpluged this in the past with no luck
so the wire must be shorted somewhere between the selonoid and the connector.
I bypassed the connector and just hard wired the EGR to the other end of the
wire. I can not see behind the engine where this goes so this looked to be
the best solution. After doing this I was able to clear the check engine
light and the fuse does not blow. I drove it 150 miles with no problems so
far.
Thank you for your help. The information was very helpful

FeMaster wrote:
>> I tried disconnecting some things and for no reason it started to work. I
>> drove the car the next day and it ran fine for 1/2 the day then the check
>[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>> had heard that the heating controlls can short out so I also disconected this
>> all with the same results. Help Please any more Ideas
>
>This, I believe is "Engine Connector #2". (Black in color, with a White one
>under it?)
>If so, it contains wires for:
>
>Idle Air Control
>Charge Air Temp Sensor (Flex-Fuel only I believe)
>Signal Reference (Sensor Ground)
>5-Volt Output
>Throttle Position Sensor
>Map Sensor
>Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
>Camshaft Output Speed Signal (B+)
>8-Volt Supply
>Alternator Feed
>Knock Sensor Signal (3.5L Only)
>
>This is from the '94 Service manual... It can't be much different for the
>'95... Good luck with this one! Unplug all the listed sensors, and then
>plug back in one at a time, turning the ignition on after each one. The one
>that blows the fuse is likely the faulty one... If none do, or it blows
>even with all these unplugged, then I wish you luck!

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