dodge shadow question

i have a 1994 dodge shadow 2.2L 4cyl. 5sp.
when i turn the ignition the car wont start. it wont turn over. it makes
one click noise when i try to start it. the battery is brand new. can
anyone tell me what the problem could be?

thanks in advance

Battery cables are loose, or the new battery is dead (ie) not charged! Or
bad alternator. I would suspect loose cables, or battery is not charged.
Make sure the cables are on the right way. Black to negative post red to
positive post!
> wrote in message
...
> i have a 1994 dodge shadow 2.2L 4cyl. 5sp.
> when i turn the ignition the car wont start. it wont turn over. it makes
> one click noise when i try to start it. the battery is brand new. can
> anyone tell me what the problem could be?
>
> thanks in advance
>

Battery cables are loose, or the new battery is dead (ie) not charged! Or
bad alternator. I would suspect loose cables, or battery is not charged.
Make sure the cables are on the right way. Black to negative post red to
positive post!
> wrote in message
...
> i have a 1994 dodge shadow 2.2L 4cyl. 5sp.
> when i turn the ignition the car wont start. it wont turn over. it makes
> one click noise when i try to start it. the battery is brand new. can
> anyone tell me what the problem could be?
>
> thanks in advance
>

On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 18:18:25 -0400, drceacphc wrote:

> i have a 1994 dodge shadow 2.2L 4cyl. 5sp.
> when i turn the ignition the car wont start. it wont turn over. it makes
> one click noise when i try to start it. the battery is brand new. can
> anyone tell me what the problem could be?
>
> thanks in advance

In addition to Deadbeat's reply, might also be that the starter's contacts
are worn like my '90 Daytona's were about a year or so ago. It makes one
click -- that will be the solenoid hitting the end of its travel without
engaging the contacts (and thereby not engaging the rotor needed for start).

But, when it went out with my car, I could sit there for a few minutes
trying and trying to start it and it would eventually crank over.

Now, you have to decide whether the click is a relay inside the cabin or
the starter solenoid under the engine.

HIH

CJ

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On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 18:18:25 -0400, drceacphc wrote:

> i have a 1994 dodge shadow 2.2L 4cyl. 5sp.
> when i turn the ignition the car wont start. it wont turn over. it makes
> one click noise when i try to start it. the battery is brand new. can
> anyone tell me what the problem could be?
>
> thanks in advance

In addition to Deadbeat's reply, might also be that the starter's contacts
are worn like my '90 Daytona's were about a year or so ago. It makes one
click -- that will be the solenoid hitting the end of its travel without
engaging the contacts (and thereby not engaging the rotor needed for start).

But, when it went out with my car, I could sit there for a few minutes
trying and trying to start it and it would eventually crank over.

Now, you have to decide whether the click is a relay inside the cabin or
the starter solenoid under the engine.

HIH

CJ

--
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IT FROM A WEB BROWSER SUCH AS INTERNET EXPLORER OR NETSCAPE, THEN YOU ARE NOT
READING THE ORIGINAL POST AND YOU SHOULD LEARN ABOUT "USENET" FROM
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it definatly has to do with the starter. today i pop started the car in
second gear and it started up and i had it running. but when i turned it
off the car would do the same one click no turn over thing. i suspect it
is the starter selonoid. but thats a good question if it could be in the
cabin? i found out today that the selonoid comes together with the
starter. is there a way i could just replace the selonoid on the starter
separetly? and how would i know if its the relay in the cabin?

thanks in advance

-----------------------------------------------------------

Circuit Breaker wrote:

In addition to Deadbeat's reply, might also be that the starter's
contacts are worn like my '90 Daytona's were about a year or so ago. It
makes one click -- that will be the solenoid hitting the end of its
travel without engaging the contacts (and thereby not engaging the rotor
needed for start).
But, when it went out with my car, I could sit there for a few minutes
trying and trying to start it and it would eventually crank over.
Now, you have to decide whether the click is a relay inside the cabin or
the starter solenoid under the engine.
HIH
CJ
--
THIS POST ORIGINATED FROM USENET, *NOT* ANY WEB-BASED FORUM! IF YOU ARE
READING IT FROM A WEB BROWSER SUCH AS INTERNET EXPLORER OR NETSCAPE,
THEN YOU ARE NOT READING THE ORIGINAL POST AND YOU SHOULD LEARN ABOUT
"USENET" FROM http://www.ibiblio.org/usenet-i/usenet-help.html

it definatly has to do with the starter. today i pop started the car in
second gear and it started up and i had it running. but when i turned it
off the car would do the same one click no turn over thing. i suspect it
is the starter selonoid. but thats a good question if it could be in the
cabin? i found out today that the selonoid comes together with the
starter. is there a way i could just replace the selonoid on the starter
separetly? and how would i know if its the relay in the cabin?

thanks in advance

-----------------------------------------------------------

Circuit Breaker wrote:

In addition to Deadbeat's reply, might also be that the starter's
contacts are worn like my '90 Daytona's were about a year or so ago. It
makes one click -- that will be the solenoid hitting the end of its
travel without engaging the contacts (and thereby not engaging the rotor
needed for start).
But, when it went out with my car, I could sit there for a few minutes
trying and trying to start it and it would eventually crank over.
Now, you have to decide whether the click is a relay inside the cabin or
the starter solenoid under the engine.
HIH
CJ
--
THIS POST ORIGINATED FROM USENET, *NOT* ANY WEB-BASED FORUM! IF YOU ARE
READING IT FROM A WEB BROWSER SUCH AS INTERNET EXPLORER OR NETSCAPE,
THEN YOU ARE NOT READING THE ORIGINAL POST AND YOU SHOULD LEARN ABOUT
"USENET" FROM http://www.ibiblio.org/usenet-i/usenet-help.html

On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 21:41:02 -0400, drceacphc wrote:

> it definatly has to do with the starter. today i pop started the car in
> second gear and it started up and i had it running. but when i turned it
> off the car would do the same one click no turn over thing. i suspect it
> is the starter selonoid. but thats a good question if it could be in the
> cabin? i found out today that the selonoid comes together with the
> starter. is there a way i could just replace the selonoid on the starter
> separetly? and how would i know if its the relay in the cabin?

You don't replace the solenoid. There are simply two small copper tabs
inside the starter solenoid housing. You can pick them up from a
starter/alternator repair shop for roughly $4 a piece. If yours is like
my local shop, they won't mind selling you the pieces because they
already have plenty of work to keep them busy.

Anyway, take the housing apart, clean everything up, relube with something
like bearing grease (lithium, perhaps?? dunno) and then replace the tabs
and put it all back together.

On my 3.0, it was a very simple device without a lot of ways if any to
screw it up so long as you're sober and awake. Just pay attention to what
you're doing and there's nothing to it.

If memory serves, once it was dismounted from the car, there were a couple
of long (brass?) screws, then the rear cap came off. I think I might have
had to disconnect a small cable, but I don't recall. I recall pulling the
rotor out basically to clean stuff up and relube, but I don't recall it
being a necessity to do this in order to get to the contacts. Once you
get to them, you'll find they are held on by something along the lines of
12 millimeter nuts. Remove nuts, pop out the studs, contacts come out,
put new contacts in, replace stud, retorque nuts (torque not critical
here, just put it as tight as the old ones felt when they came off, maybe
a hair tighter, and you should be fine) (just don't stand on the breaker
bar to torque them). In all, once I had the parts, I guess it took me shy
of an hour to do the whole thing, including removal/installation (but my
memory is not the best).

HIH
CJ
--
THIS POST ORIGINATED FROM USENET, *NOT* ANY WEB-BASED FORUM! IF YOU ARE READING
IT FROM A WEB BROWSER SUCH AS INTERNET EXPLORER OR NETSCAPE, THEN YOU ARE NOT
READING THE ORIGINAL POST AND YOU SHOULD LEARN ABOUT "USENET" FROM
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On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 21:41:02 -0400, drceacphc wrote:

> it definatly has to do with the starter. today i pop started the car in
> second gear and it started up and i had it running. but when i turned it
> off the car would do the same one click no turn over thing. i suspect it
> is the starter selonoid. but thats a good question if it could be in the
> cabin? i found out today that the selonoid comes together with the
> starter. is there a way i could just replace the selonoid on the starter
> separetly? and how would i know if its the relay in the cabin?

You don't replace the solenoid. There are simply two small copper tabs
inside the starter solenoid housing. You can pick them up from a
starter/alternator repair shop for roughly $4 a piece. If yours is like
my local shop, they won't mind selling you the pieces because they
already have plenty of work to keep them busy.

Anyway, take the housing apart, clean everything up, relube with something
like bearing grease (lithium, perhaps?? dunno) and then replace the tabs
and put it all back together.

On my 3.0, it was a very simple device without a lot of ways if any to
screw it up so long as you're sober and awake. Just pay attention to what
you're doing and there's nothing to it.

If memory serves, once it was dismounted from the car, there were a couple
of long (brass?) screws, then the rear cap came off. I think I might have
had to disconnect a small cable, but I don't recall. I recall pulling the
rotor out basically to clean stuff up and relube, but I don't recall it
being a necessity to do this in order to get to the contacts. Once you
get to them, you'll find they are held on by something along the lines of
12 millimeter nuts. Remove nuts, pop out the studs, contacts come out,
put new contacts in, replace stud, retorque nuts (torque not critical
here, just put it as tight as the old ones felt when they came off, maybe
a hair tighter, and you should be fine) (just don't stand on the breaker
bar to torque them). In all, once I had the parts, I guess it took me shy
of an hour to do the whole thing, including removal/installation (but my
memory is not the best).

HIH
CJ
--
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IT FROM A WEB BROWSER SUCH AS INTERNET EXPLORER OR NETSCAPE, THEN YOU ARE NOT
READING THE ORIGINAL POST AND YOU SHOULD LEARN ABOUT "USENET" FROM
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thanks for the advice. greatly appreciate it.

----------------------------------------------------------
Circuit=A0Breaker Wrote:

You don't replace the solenoid. There are simply two small copper tabs
inside the starter solenoid housing. You can pick them up from a
starter/alternator repair shop for roughly $4 a piece. If yours is like
my local shop, they won't mind selling you the pieces because they
already have plenty of work to keep them busy.
Anyway, take the housing apart, clean everything up, relube with
something like bearing grease (lithium, perhaps?? dunno) and then
replace the tabs and put it all back together.
On my 3.0, it was a very simple device without a lot of ways if any to
screw it up so long as you're sober and awake. Just pay attention to
what you're doing and there's nothing to it.
If memory serves, once it was dismounted from the car, there were a
couple of long (brass?) screws, then the rear cap came off. I think I
might have had to disconnect a small cable, but I don't recall. I recall
pulling the rotor out basically to clean stuff up and relube, but I
don't recall it being a necessity to do this in order to get to the
contacts. Once you get to them, you'll find they are held on by
something along the lines of 12 millimeter nuts. Remove nuts, pop out
the studs, contacts come out, put new contacts in, replace stud,
retorque nuts (torque not critical here, just put it as tight as the old
ones felt when they came off, maybe a hair tighter, and you should be
fine) (just don't stand on the breaker bar to torque them). In all, once
I had the parts, I guess it took me shy of an hour to do the whole
thing, including removal/installation (but my memory is not the best).
HIH
CJ
--
THIS POST ORIGINATED FROM USENET, *NOT* ANY WEB-BASED FORUM! IF YOU ARE
READING IT FROM A WEB BROWSER SUCH AS INTERNET EXPLORER OR NETSCAPE,
THEN YOU ARE NOT READING THE ORIGINAL POST AND YOU SHOULD LEARN ABOUT
"USENET" FROM http://www.ibiblio.org/usenet-i/usenet-help.html