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#1
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87 Mazda 626 - trying to remove front brake rotor
Need some help here. I'm trying to remove the front brake rotor from an 87
Mazda 626 (pulsing brakes - probably a warped rotor). With the wheel and brake caliper off, there is nothing that appears to hold the rotor on. But banging on the rotor and a reasonable amount of force with a puller, along with liberal doses of WD-40, have not budged it. Is it possible that I have to remove the front hub to get the rotor off? Thanks, Craig [to reply directly, change the VERB to a NUMERAL] |
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#2
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Are you sure it doesn't have two counter sunk screws holding them to the
hub? "Williams" > wrote in message ... > Need some help here. I'm trying to remove the front brake rotor from an > 87 Mazda 626 (pulsing brakes - probably a warped rotor). With the wheel > and brake caliper off, there is nothing that appears to hold the rotor on. > But banging on the rotor and a reasonable amount of force with a puller, > along with liberal doses of WD-40, have not budged it. > > Is it possible that I have to remove the front hub to get the rotor off? > > Thanks, > Craig > [to reply directly, change the VERB to a NUMERAL] > > ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#3
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There are no countersunk screws. I looked for that first, because other
cars I've worked on have had that arrangement (such as our daughter's Civic). There are four holes, but they have bolts from the rear side that hold the "lug plate" to the rotor. (I made up that term - I don't know what it's called. It's a separate piece that holds the wheel lugs. The four bolts on the rear are not accessible until the rotor is removed. Craig "Shep" > wrote in message ... > Are you sure it doesn't have two counter sunk screws holding them to the > hub? > "Williams" > wrote in message > ... >> Need some help here. I'm trying to remove the front brake rotor from an >> 87 Mazda 626 (pulsing brakes - probably a warped rotor). With the wheel >> and brake caliper off, there is nothing that appears to hold the rotor >> on. But banging on the rotor and a reasonable amount of force with a >> puller, along with liberal doses of WD-40, have not budged it. >> >> Is it possible that I have to remove the front hub to get the rotor off? >> >> Thanks, >> Craig >> [to reply directly, change the VERB to a NUMERAL] >> >> > > > > ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet > News==---- > http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ > Newsgroups > ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption > =---- |
#4
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I would be glad to post a couple of pictures, if that would help. Is there
a convenient web site for doing that? Craig |
#5
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Williams wrote:
> Need some help here. I'm trying to remove the front brake rotor > from an 87 Mazda 626 (pulsing brakes - probably a warped rotor). > With the wheel and brake caliper off, there is nothing that appears > to hold the rotor on. But banging on the rotor and a reasonable > amount of force with a puller, along with liberal doses of WD-40, > have not budged it. > > Is it possible that I have to remove the front hub to get the rotor off? Some rotors have 2 small shallow holes, with a screw thread, that opens out onto the hub behind it. You screw in a bolt into the hole, and it levers the rotor off the hub. Essential for getting rusted rotors off, if you don't want to hammer your system to death. |
#6
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Thanks, but there are no threaded holes on these rotors.
Craig "Old Wolf" > wrote in message oups.com... > Williams wrote: >> Need some help here. I'm trying to remove the front brake rotor >> from an 87 Mazda 626 (pulsing brakes - probably a warped rotor). >> With the wheel and brake caliper off, there is nothing that appears >> to hold the rotor on. But banging on the rotor and a reasonable >> amount of force with a puller, along with liberal doses of WD-40, >> have not budged it. >> >> Is it possible that I have to remove the front hub to get the rotor > off? > > Some rotors have 2 small shallow holes, with a screw thread, that > opens out onto the hub behind it. You screw in a bolt into the > hole, and it levers the rotor off the hub. Essential for getting > rusted rotors off, if you don't want to hammer your system to death. > |
#7
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"Williams" > wrote in
: > Need some help here. I'm trying to remove the front brake rotor from > an 87 Mazda 626 (pulsing brakes - probably a warped rotor). Or heavy rust on the hub... > With the > wheel and brake caliper off, there is nothing that appears to hold the > rotor on. But banging on the rotor and a reasonable amount of force > with a puller, along with liberal doses of WD-40, have not budged it. > > Is it possible that I have to remove the front hub to get the rotor > off? > If you live in an area that has snow or regular rain, it's rust. The rust grows to the point where it creeps behind the hub and clamps the rotor on to the hub. Got exactly that problem right now with the left rotor on our '99 Tercel. This is the Tercel's right rotor, which eventually came off with lots of wiggling and persuasion with a plastic mallet. You can clearly see where the hub was scraping on the rotor's "top hat" as it slid off. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/rotor_hub.jpg http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/rotor_rust.jpg Get a 1# ball-peen hammer. With the small end, tap sharply on the side of the "top hat", inboard of the hub. Whack, turn a bit, whack, turn a bit. What you're trying to do is shock the rust into breaking off the inside of the top hat. Might take a LONG time if there's lots of rust. As it breaks loose, you'll start to hear it rattling around as you turn the hub. If your Mazda's hub is anything like all the Hondas and Toyotas I've seen it's about 3/8" thick, with the top hat being about 1/8". When you strike with the hammer, you want to do it in the place where you'll get maximum resonance. You don't want the vibration to be transferred directly to the hub. By the way, make certain the hub surface is squeaky, shiny, silvery clean, with NO trace of rust, otherwise your new rotors will vibrate right out of the box! Here's what the rotor looks like after I chip off all the rust with a hammer and old screwdriver: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/rotor_rust_chip.jpg And here it is, ready to reinstall: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...st_sandoff.jpg Cleanliness is critical! -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#8
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"TeGGeR®" wrote > "Williams" > wrote in > : > > > Need some help here. I'm trying to remove the front brake rotor from > > an 87 Mazda 626 (pulsing brakes - probably a warped rotor). > > > Or heavy rust on the hub... Sounds like it's rusted on. No mention of bolts, pullers, or fancy tools required... http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8017e361.jsp 323, MX-6 and 1983-89 626 1. Raise the vehicle and support it securely by the center crossmember using axle stands. Inspect the disc brake rotor as described below. If the disc requires replacement or machining, inspect the wheel bearing and then remove it. 2. Spin the tire to check for roughness in the bearing or unusual noise. Then, remove the wheel and unfasten the brake caliper, as described above. Hang the caliper out of the way without disconnecting the hydraulic line. 3. Pull the rotor from the hub. |
#9
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Doe it have two-three-four small diameter, threaded holes in the
unswept, center part of the rotor? I'm not familiar with the Mazda, but a lot of front-drive cars have these holes. You run bolts into 'em and thus break the rotor loose from the hub, where rust and a wide swath of tight metal-on-metal contact can form an impressive seal. You might then have to keep cranking on the bolts and walk the rotor a bit further outboard before you can pull it off. This carries a lot less potential for collateral damage than just bombing away with a hammer -- and doesn't make the neighbors think you've put the speakers in the window and put on the Anvil Chorus again. Sometimes you see that scheme on rear drums too. By the way, W(ater) D(isplacing)-40 is better than nothing when persuading rusty old machinery to see things your way, and is an invaluable product to have around for other reasons, but proper "penetrating oil" is best of all for this job. Cheers, --Joe |
#10
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In article >, Williams wrote:
> Need some help here. I'm trying to remove the front brake rotor from an 87 > Mazda 626 (pulsing brakes - probably a warped rotor). With the wheel and > brake caliper off, there is nothing that appears to hold the rotor on. But > banging on the rotor and a reasonable amount of force with a puller, along > with liberal doses of WD-40, have not budged it. > > Is it possible that I have to remove the front hub to get the rotor off? It's a bit of work. You have to remove the entire assembly of the hub,knuckle,etc from the car. Then press the hub out of the knuckle. Now with access to backside of the hub and rotor, you can remove the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. If you want more detailed instructions email me, and I'll see if I can scan the revelant pages from the '86 factory manual. |
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