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1989 ford f-150 start troubles



 
 
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  #11  
Old March 8th 05, 11:26 PM
Swabbie
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no winston, the truck does not start at temperature, pressurized or not.
it hast o cool first..

--

"Winston" > wrote in message
...
> Swabbie wrote:
>> "Winston" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>> Swabbie wrote:
>>>
>>>> this is a problem that has plagued this truck for about 2 years now. I
>>>> have posted this problem on about every ford tech site on the net.
>>>> Still no go.
>>>> heres the situation,
>>>> the truck will crank right up, and drive perfectly to wherever I am
>>>> going. I then turn it off.
>>>> If it has been about 30 miles or so, it will NOT restart until it has
>>>> sat for about 15 minutes(as if it needs to cool down).

>
> Other posters have indicated a chronic heat problem in the starter motor
> and suggest a heat shield. This seems most likely.
>
>>>
>>> Stick? Automatic? auto
>>>
>>> How much current goes to the starter under each condition?
>>> About the same or much more or less under the fault condition?checked it
>>> today, its the same
>>>
>>> Can you reproduce the problem with an unpressurized cooling system?
>>> (Loosen the radiator cap before starting?)NO

>
> This means that the truck always starts at any temperature as long as
> the cooling system is unpressurized. That's what you meant to say,
> yes? The problem cannot be reproduced with an unpressurized cooling
> system.
>
> Cool! I wonder if this means that coolant is leaking into the cylinders
> and bogging down the starter. How is your coolant level? Do you
> have to keep topping it up?
>
>>> If you remove the sparkplugs after the failure, does the engine spin
>>> up at about the right RPM or is it still bogged down, indicating
>>> perhaps a main bearing problem?

>>
>> more detail on this one please, I guess I don't get what you mean

>
> Earlier, you mentioned that the truck always starts at any temperature
> as long as the cooling system is unpressurized, right?
>
> Forget my mention of a main bearing problem. It is looking more as if
> coolant is getting into one or more cylinders.
>
> You also state that the starter motor draws no more current when the
> problem appears.
> This is a puzzlement, because one would expect a 'hydraulically siezed'
> engine to draw much more current through the series - wound starter.
> Removing the plugs and cranking the engine would blow out any water
> collected in the cylinders.
>
>>> Oil look ok? Not 'creamy' as if water has gotten in?
>>> looks fine to me

>
> Good. That means water isn't getting past the rings or valve stem seals.
>
>>> Blue Sky Department:
>>> Sick F.I. computer injecting liquid gas into a couple cylinders?
>>> Sick injector(s) sticking open when heated?
>>> Head gasket leak putting incompressable water in a couple cylinders?
>>>
>>> --Winston

>
> But these wildass guesses are probably wrong and you just need to put a
> heat shield on your starter.
>
> --Winston
>


Ads
  #12  
Old March 9th 05, 12:01 AM
Mike Romain
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Speed shops have shields and wrapping for the pipes that works really
well.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Swabbie wrote:
>
> Ive thought of that before..I think I may try the heat shield before the
> rest...great ideas guys...
>
> --
>

  #13  
Old March 9th 05, 04:32 AM
Swabbie
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so you're saying wrap the pipes, and not the starter Mike?
i was thinking something like this.
http://www.autobarn.net/stheshbyth.html
--

"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> Speed shops have shields and wrapping for the pipes that works really
> well.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Swabbie wrote:
>>
>> Ive thought of that before..I think I may try the heat shield before the
>> rest...great ideas guys...
>>
>> --
>>


  #14  
Old March 9th 05, 05:54 AM
Winston
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Swabbie wrote:
> no winston, the truck does not start at temperature, pressurized or not.
> it hast o cool first..


Yeah, I thought you might have meant Yes when you said No.

So. Next time it happens are you going to spray a little cold water on the
starter body to see if it cools off faster?

--Winston

  #15  
Old March 9th 05, 02:57 PM
Mike Romain
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Posts: n/a
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I have seen it done both ways. I was at a custom street rod show last
summer and was checking out the wrapping stuff. On a fully warmed up V8
you could put your hand on the exhaust with no heat transfer.

I am not sure which way is the most effective. That product in the link
does specifically say it's for that problem though.

Mike

Swabbie wrote:
>
> so you're saying wrap the pipes, and not the starter Mike?
> i was thinking something like this.
> http://www.autobarn.net/stheshbyth.html
> --
>
> "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Speed shops have shields and wrapping for the pipes that works really
> > well.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Swabbie wrote:
> >>
> >> Ive thought of that before..I think I may try the heat shield before the
> >> rest...great ideas guys...
> >>
> >> --
> >>

  #16  
Old March 14th 05, 12:09 AM
mic canic
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Posts: n/a
Default

yoiu need to do a voltage drop test to the wiring for the battery to the
soliniod and then to the starter
this will tell you if the wiring is corrioded inside the casing and not visable

Swabbie wrote:

> this is a problem that has plagued this truck for about 2 years now. I have
> posted this problem on about every ford tech site on the net. Still no go.
> heres the situation,
> the truck will crank right up, and drive perfectly to wherever I am going. I
> then turn it off.
> If it has been about 30 miles or so, it will NOT restart until it has sat
> for about 15 minutes(as if it needs to cool down).
> it tries to turn over, but will crank like a low battery. Jumping it does
> nothing. It has to sit for about 15 minutes minimum, Then it will crank
> right up like nothing was wrong.
> Of course this doesn't happen if its a short trip. Only if the truck has
> been driven 30 miles or so.
>
> now heres what I have done/changed:
> the obvious guess would be the starter, perhaps bushings heating up..but,
> I've been through 2 of them..NO DIFFERENCE! one remanufactured, the other a
> new motorcraft.
>
> next, is the battery..brand new, new cables and leads. ground is good and
> tight to motor.
> I even ran a bigger gauge lead to the starter, no difference.
> I've changed plugs, wires, solenoid under hood, and still NO GO.
> Someone suggested that it had jumped time...checked it with light and its
> perfect.
> distributor you say? NOPE..new one too.
>
> any ideas? it sucks to HAVE to stay somewhere for at least 20 minutes.
>
> --
> d


  #17  
Old March 14th 05, 03:23 PM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

It's an electrical problem, aggravated by heat. If it was
coolant in the cylinders it would never start. Ever. Plugs would be
shorted.

Turning the headlights on while trying to start it will tell you if the
starter is drawing properly; if the headlights dim way down when the
starter runs, it's drawing well and the problem is a dragging starter
or some mechanical engine failure. If the lights don't dim much, the
starter isn't taking what it needs, and you have to look closer at all
the connections. If the connections are all new and clean, and the
solenoid is new, like you said, then it's likely an internal starter
problem like a sticking brush. There are four brushes, and if one
sticks the starter has only half its torque. Sometimes whacking the
starter will seat the brushes and it'll go.
Heat has some stupid effect on the situation, and it's common in
some GMs. The heat may be coming thru the starter mounting, not from
the exhaust.
Where is that ground cable attached?
Dan

  #18  
Old March 14th 05, 11:23 PM
Swabbie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

well Dan, I have put a heat shield on the starter, and thus far..it seems to
have alleved the problem.
I will give it a real test tomorrow as I make an hr and a half trip.
thanks a ton for the ideas..
I sincerely appreciate it

--

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> It's an electrical problem, aggravated by heat. If it was
> coolant in the cylinders it would never start. Ever. Plugs would be
> shorted.
>
> Turning the headlights on while trying to start it will tell you if the
> starter is drawing properly; if the headlights dim way down when the
> starter runs, it's drawing well and the problem is a dragging starter
> or some mechanical engine failure. If the lights don't dim much, the
> starter isn't taking what it needs, and you have to look closer at all
> the connections. If the connections are all new and clean, and the
> solenoid is new, like you said, then it's likely an internal starter
> problem like a sticking brush. There are four brushes, and if one
> sticks the starter has only half its torque. Sometimes whacking the
> starter will seat the brushes and it'll go.
> Heat has some stupid effect on the situation, and it's common in
> some GMs. The heat may be coming thru the starter mounting, not from
> the exhaust.
> Where is that ground cable attached?
> Dan
>


 




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