engine temp.

> when i put the distributor back, it went in smooth, until the rotor shaft
> locked in, then i had to tap it the rest of the way down.
> could the shaft be in some sort of bind now, causing enough friction to
> cause the distributor body to get hot enough to melt the rubber?

187 - Now you know what you gotta do...pull that dizzy out and check the
shaft. What does the shaft oil seal look like? Does the shaft appear to be
scored? Can you get that meat thermometer onto the base of the dist. while
it's running and get a good reading? If you have a backup distributer, try
the backup. Solve that hot dizzy problem, then go to work on the engine/oil
temp problem. Good luck.



"187" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
>i with it would have been that easy.
> i haven't had a chance to check the oil pressure, or take the valves out
> yet, i had to work late today.
> but i did get me a haynes manual today, and hopefully that will help me
> some.
> i have been racking my brains about what i could have done while i had the
> engine out that would have caused this, and something hit me.
> when i put the distributor back, it went in smooth, until the rotor shaft
> locked in, then i had to tap it the rest of the way down.
> could the shaft be in some sort of bind now, causing enough friction to
> cause the distributor body to get hot enough to melt the rubber?
> if not, got any ideas of what i could have done wrong?
> thanks again
> matt
>

well, i had a chance to pull out the oil pressure relief valve, and the oil
control valve, the had a few scratches on them, but not to bad, but i did
go ahead and smooth them back up with some 1200 grit sandpaper, then i
installed a mechanical oil pressure guage.
when hot it has about 10psi at idle, and 35 or so when i speed the engine
up. so im thinking thats fine.
im gonna pull the dizzy tomorrow and see what that looks like, hopefully i
will find the problem then.
thanks alot.
matt

i pulled the dizzy, and found that the oil hole won't line up with the
window in the case, unless i turn the dizzy to the left untill the vac.
can hits the fuel pump.
is there something i'm missing, or do i have the wrong dizzy for my
engine?
thanks
matt

ive looked at the the gear, with everything lined up as the book shows, and
it is what looks like 1 tooth off clockwise, so i got me a drive puller,
and got my drive lined back up properly.

but that didnt help!
it did get my distributor turned closer to my fuel pump, but it still
wasnt far enough, i did try 1 tooth left of straight up, and that was too
far , so i put it back like the book called for.
but regardless of where the rotor is pointing, there is no way i can turn
the distributor and make the oil hole line up with the oil window in the
case, unless i take the fuel pump , and its studs out.
i do know that the #'s on the car, engine, and distributor all match, so i
know it aint the wrong distributor.
and as for the distributor drive turning when i had the motor out for the
clutch job, it couldnt have, i didnt take the flange below the fuel pump
out when the motor was out, so the drive was misaligned when i got the
car.
while i was checking the shaft and all, i replaced the seals for the oil
cooler, and rechecked for obstruction, and there was none., the flaps in
the fan housing were all fine, facing down, nothing on top of cylinders.
i did get rid of the electric fuel pump, so that is out of the picture.
even ran a ground wire from the condensor to the bolt at the bottom of the
carb.
after i did all this, i went for a test drive.
i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F
i was thinking everything was fine, so i turned around and headed home,
when i got here, she cut off on me. i looked, and the darn rubber had
melted again. i wiggled it to break the ground connection, and she fired
right back up.
the temp had gotten up to whatever back around to 40F on a analog
themometer going up to 220F would be.
someone please help!
thanks
matt

"187" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> ive looked at the the gear, with everything lined up as the book shows,
and
> it is what looks like 1 tooth off clockwise, so i got me a drive puller,
> and got my drive lined back up properly.
>
> but that didnt help!
> it did get my distributor turned closer to my fuel pump, but it still
> wasnt far enough, i did try 1 tooth left of straight up, and that was too
> far , so i put it back like the book called for.
> but regardless of where the rotor is pointing, there is no way i can turn
> the distributor and make the oil hole line up with the oil window in the
> case, unless i take the fuel pump , and its studs out.
> i do know that the #'s on the car, engine, and distributor all match, so i
> know it aint the wrong distributor.
> and as for the distributor drive turning when i had the motor out for the
> clutch job, it couldnt have, i didnt take the flange below the fuel pump
> out when the motor was out, so the drive was misaligned when i got the
> car.
> while i was checking the shaft and all, i replaced the seals for the oil
> cooler, and rechecked for obstruction, and there was none., the flaps in
> the fan housing were all fine, facing down, nothing on top of cylinders.
> i did get rid of the electric fuel pump, so that is out of the picture.
> even ran a ground wire from the condensor to the bolt at the bottom of the
> carb.
> after i did all this, i went for a test drive.
> i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F
> i was thinking everything was fine, so i turned around and headed home,
> when i got here, she cut off on me. i looked, and the darn rubber had
> melted again. i wiggled it to break the ground connection, and she fired
> right back up.
> the temp had gotten up to whatever back around to 40F on a analog
> themometer going up to 220F would be.
> someone please help!
> thanks
> matt
>

Matt,

I believe Bob may be incorrect, with relation to the position of the hole.
I have sent Bob some information for discussion, I have yet to receive his
reply.

You say the flaps are "facing down", but are they opening?
With regards to the "darn rubber" melting. Is it really rubber?
All the distributers I have, use a "themoplastic" as the insulator for the
wires.

Grahame
from Australia

187 wrote:

> ive looked at the the gear, with everything lined up as the book shows, and
> it is what looks like 1 tooth off clockwise, so i got me a drive puller,
> and got my drive lined back up properly.
>
> but that didnt help!
> it did get my distributor turned closer to my fuel pump, but it still
> wasnt far enough, i did try 1 tooth left of straight up, and that was too
> far , so i put it back like the book called for.
> but regardless of where the rotor is pointing, there is no way i can turn
> the distributor and make the oil hole line up with the oil window in the
> case, unless i take the fuel pump , and its studs out.
> i do know that the #'s on the car, engine, and distributor all match, so i
> know it aint the wrong distributor.
> and as for the distributor drive turning when i had the motor out for the
> clutch job, it couldnt have, i didnt take the flange below the fuel pump
> out when the motor was out, so the drive was misaligned when i got the
> car.
> while i was checking the shaft and all, i replaced the seals for the oil
> cooler, and rechecked for obstruction, and there was none., the flaps in
> the fan housing were all fine, facing down, nothing on top of cylinders.
> i did get rid of the electric fuel pump, so that is out of the picture.
> even ran a ground wire from the condensor to the bolt at the bottom of the
> carb.
> after i did all this, i went for a test drive.
> i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F
> i was thinking everything was fine, so i turned around and headed home,
> when i got here, she cut off on me. i looked, and the darn rubber had
> melted again. i wiggled it to break the ground connection, and she fired
> right back up.
> the temp had gotten up to whatever back around to 40F on a analog
> themometer going up to 220F would be.
> someone please help!
> thanks
> matt
>

QUOTE: "i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F"

If accurate, this is way out of line on a Type 1.

I think this whole distributor oiling issue has become a red herring
and distraction from whatever is causing the high engine temps.

Not being there for a "hands on", I don't have any more suggestions
beyond what you have already checked (thoroughly, I might add).

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

"Grahame Rumballe" wrote in message ...

> I believe Bob may be incorrect, with relation to the position of the hole.

Are you referring to the fact that the "window" in the case appears to open
onto the area where the drive dog meets the housing, rather than the oil
hole? The vertical groove would then carry the oil from this area to the
hole. This would mean that it does not matter where the oil hole was
facing, as it is generally not facing the window, as far as I can see.

could the seal between the engine and the rear apron (right above the
muffler) be causing this?
during the clutch job, most of the seal at the rear of the engine
compartment got broken off.
the sides are still in place.
im wondering if air that passes over the engine is being brought back up
through that hole, and just blowing hotter, and hotter air over the
engine. just a thought.
matt

Matt, you would'nt be the same Matt that used to visit this group
several years ago as a very young troll? If you are, you have matured
and have a much better manner and again are playing the best in our
group like a piano. Congrats if you are. Of course the dist is very
hot as are most other parts of a hot engine.

nope, not the same matt, just a guy with a hot bug, thats driving him
CRAZY!