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2001 Town and Country A/C problem
"joe" wrote: > I have a 2001 Town and Country where the A/C would not cool. I charged > the system with 24 oz. of r124a plus a can of dye. How did you remove the '10' from r134a to create 124a freon? > It worked fine for > 6 weeks and then lost it's charge. High side 125psi. low 20 psi. Using > an electronic detector there was no signal from the engine > compartment, but it beeped in the front dash vents. It would seem like > a front evaporator leak. What causes the evaporator to leak other than > poor construction? Well, there's bad construction, crappy construction, and inadequate construction to name three. > I called Chrysler and asked if they are having problems with their > evaporators on T & C's. I know they had problems in the past with > evaporators in some models and they entended the waranty on them. I > was told that on this model they did extend the waranty on the A/C > compressor, but not the evaporator. It would seem that a 4 y/o car > with 46k miles shouldn't need to have the evaporator replaced. Evaporators? Heavens, no! I've never heard of an evaporator failure on a Chrysler product, let alone a 2001 Town and Country... Please complete the survey after I hang up with you if you think I did a satisfactory job of customer service. Thanks!! > It appears that to replace the evaporator the entire dash has to be > removed. Yes. > The dealer quoted ~$1000 for the job. Sounds about right. > A friend of a friend ( who is reported to be a good mechanic and has > done a number of these) quoted ~ $800. He also suggested replacing the > heater core since the only cost would be the part. Not a *bad* idea, but the heater core really shouldn't give you trouble -- statistically. It's probably a waste of money, unless your mechanic likes to destroy the soft brass pipes during hose removal. > If I take it to the dealer and there is something wrong with the > compressor the waranty will cover the compressor. I'd be on my own > with that if I took it to the independet mechanic. > Any suggestions? Treat them as separate issues. At this time you need an evaporator. > Has anyonre done this job, and is it as much of a bear as it appears? Give yourself a day or two time frame to carefully remove and keep track of all of the bolts, screws and dash components and you shouldn't have a problem. Do you have the capability of evacuating the system to 29" vacuum before recharging? That needs to be done for a proper repair. Toyota MDT in MO |
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"joe" wrote: > I got the r134a on a discount, only $9 /lb.so they call it r124a. > I have the manifold and vaccum pump to evacuate the system. > I'm more worried about all the electronics and connections in the > dash..Someone suggested a two part system for fixing the leak. Has > anyone any experiance with it? I question how good it would be for the > compressor, reciever dryer, or the H valve. I wouldn't try any "Mechanic in a Bottle" crap for your A/C system. It can certainly cause more problems than you have right now. Modern automotive condenser core tubing is the smallest diameter it has ever been (more prone to clogging), and your van uses an expansion valve (more expensive to replace than an orifice tube if it clogs). I wouldn't worry about the electrical connections. They are all differently shaped to ease reassembly. Simply label every connector and part with adhesive memo paper or whatever. Other random thoughts on the job: Drop the steering wheel down to get more room to pull back the dash. Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait a few minutes before disconnecting any airbag related wiring on and around the steering column or passenger side airbag. Drain the coolant long before you start. Use new green A/C orings and lube them with PAG oil before reassembly. Take out the heater, instrument panel, and radio components first to get a look at hidden bolts. Remove any A pillar and kick panel trim that you think might get in the way. When all of this stuff is out of the way the dash will move fairly easily. Be careful with the heater core pipes. Break the heater hose adhesion with a hose removal tool (a blunt pick shaped tool); don't try to twist them loose with pliers like a butcher. Toyota MDT in MO |
#3
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well this van has a issue with rear ac verses the front
double check the bac, if you have it, and the heater code in this van is done real easy without removing dash so it would be a waste of money since it can be done from the dr. side floor Cattle wrote: > I have a 2001 Town and Country where the A/C would not cool. I charged > the system with 24 oz. of r124a plus a can of dye. It worked fine for > 6 weeks and then lost it's charge. High side 125psi. low 20 psi. Using > an electronic detector there was no signal from the engine > compartment, but it beeped in the front dash vents. It would seem like > a front evaporator leak. What causes the evaporator to leak other than > poor construction? > I called Chrysler and asked if they are having problems with their > evaporators on T & C's. I know they had problems in the past with > evaporators in some models and they entended the waranty on them. I > was told that on this model they did extend the waranty on the A/C > compressor, but not the evaporator. It would seem that a 4 y/o car > with 46k miles shouldn't need to have the evaporator replaced. > > It appears that to replace the evaporator the entire dash has to be > removed. I'm pretty good mechinically, but I'm not sure I want to > handle this one. > The dealer quoted ~$1000 for the job. > A friend of a friend ( who is reported to be a good mechanic and has > done a number of these) quoted ~ $800. He also suggested replacing the > heater core since the only cost would be the part. > If I take it to the dealer and there is something wrong with the > compressor the waranty will cover the compressor. I'd be on my own > with that if I took it to the independet mechanic. > Any suggestions? > Should I replace the heater core also? > Has anyonre done this job, and is it as much of a bear as it appears? > Should I personally give it a try? > > Thanks |
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