1999 SL2

My mechanic friend came over today and we started testing everything. Think
we have it narrowed down to the fuel pump may be starting to fail and is
shorting the system somehow by drawing too many amps or the securuty block
module located on the side of the rear passenger seat.
"John" > wrote in message
sburylight...
>I have a four door 1999 Saturn SL2 Automatic that just recently started
>having electrical issues. About two months ago was driving in extreme heat,
>shut off to fill with gas, and would not restart. After sitting in shade
>for about an hour (jump did no good battery fine) it restarted and made it
>home and then died again. Helpful mechanic diagnosed it with testing meter
>to be Relay switch--and we replaced the main one and the one that controlls
>the AC to be safe (and even bought two spare just in case). Ran great for
>about a month. Then another scorcher....died....remote keys/alarm would not
>work/radio would not work/car would not start/ headlights work/interior
>light works/dash lights come on when try to start.....no fix when change
>out relay switches.....Let car sit for 2-3 hours....started and ran fine
>for 1-2 weeks (but radio/clock all reset)
>
> Happened again today...very hot and humid...all above symptoms...towed
> home....called mechanic and described...he wants me to research too as
> he's stumped. Luckily home and so is car...and can borrow if
> can...research seeming to say to start with Crank Position Sensor? Does
> this sound posible? I'm sure it will be tough to test as by the time he
> can look at it, it will probably start again...and I do not have much
> knowledge or meters...I just need advice to help point him and not empty
> my bank. Any/all help will be GREATLY appreciated!!!
> Thanks

I do not see how the fuel pump could do what you describe. It would
definitely blow a fuse before it could cause the type of short you describe.
In addition, none of the other accessories (lights, etc.) that you described
as working would operate. I am not familiar with the "securuty" block
module so have no comment on that.

Good luck.

Bob



"John" > wrote in message
sburylight...
> My mechanic friend came over today and we started testing everything.
> Think we have it narrowed down to the fuel pump may be starting to fail
> and is shorting the system somehow by drawing too many amps or the
> securuty block module located on the side of the rear passenger seat.
> "John" > wrote in message
> sburylight...
>>I have a four door 1999 Saturn SL2 Automatic that just recently started
>>having electrical issues. About two months ago was driving in extreme
>>heat, shut off to fill with gas, and would not restart. After sitting in
>>shade for about an hour (jump did no good battery fine) it restarted and
>>made it home and then died again. Helpful mechanic diagnosed it with
>>testing meter to be Relay switch--and we replaced the main one and the one
>>that controlls the AC to be safe (and even bought two spare just in case).
>>Ran great for about a month. Then another scorcher....died....remote
>>keys/alarm would not work/radio would not work/car would not start/
>>headlights work/interior light works/dash lights come on when try to
>>start.....no fix when change out relay switches.....Let car sit for 2-3
>>hours....started and ran fine for 1-2 weeks (but radio/clock all reset)
>>
>> Happened again today...very hot and humid...all above symptoms...towed
>> home....called mechanic and described...he wants me to research too as
>> he's stumped. Luckily home and so is car...and can borrow if
>> can...research seeming to say to start with Crank Position Sensor? Does
>> this sound posible? I'm sure it will be tough to test as by the time he
>> can look at it, it will probably start again...and I do not have much
>> knowledge or meters...I just need advice to help point him and not empty
>> my bank. Any/all help will be GREATLY appreciated!!!
>> Thanks
>
>

In article >, "Bob Shuman" > wrote:
>I do not see how the fuel pump could do what you describe. It would
>definitely blow a fuse before it could cause the type of short you describe.
>In addition, none of the other accessories (lights, etc.) that you described
>as working would operate.

I agree. I'm betting on a bad battery or connections to the battery.

Doug,

I definitely agree with you (battery connections/cables or battery). A
resistive connection drops the voltage and prevents sufficient current to
engage the starter.

If not that then the next most likely cause would be the starter solenoid,
followed by the starter relay, ignition switch, neutral/park safety
interlock, or the engine and chassis grounds.

Bob

"Doug Miller" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, "Bob Shuman"
> > wrote:
>>I do not see how the fuel pump could do what you describe. It would
>>definitely blow a fuse before it could cause the type of short you
>>describe.
>>In addition, none of the other accessories (lights, etc.) that you
>>described
>>as working would operate.
>
> I agree. I'm betting on a bad battery or connections to the battery.

In article >, "Bob Shuman" > wrote:
>Doug,
>
>I definitely agree with you (battery connections/cables or battery). A
>resistive connection drops the voltage and prevents sufficient current to
>engage the starter.
>
>If not that then the next most likely cause would be the starter solenoid,
>followed by the starter relay, ignition switch, neutral/park safety
>interlock, or the engine and chassis grounds.

Of that list, though, only the engine and chassis grounds would explain the
radio resetting to factory settings. *That* is why I'm convinced that the OP
either has a bad battery, or bad connections between the battery and ground.

Doug,

From the post, it is not at all clear when the radio got reset to its
factory settings ... I was simply assuming it could have been during earlier
troubleshooting and diagnosis when the battery could have been temporarily
disconnected. I figure better to give a more exhaustive list and let the OP
make his own decisions from there. In any event, based on the limited info
that has been provided, we seem to be in agreement that the mechanic may be
overlooking the obvious.

In any event, I wish the OP well and hope he posts a more descriptive
failure mode and the ultimate root cause to benefit others.

Bob

"Doug Miller" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, "Bob Shuman"
> > wrote:
>>Doug,
>>
>>I definitely agree with you (battery connections/cables or battery). A
>>resistive connection drops the voltage and prevents sufficient current to
>>engage the starter.
>>
>>If not that then the next most likely cause would be the starter solenoid,
>>followed by the starter relay, ignition switch, neutral/park safety
>>interlock, or the engine and chassis grounds.
>
> Of that list, though, only the engine and chassis grounds would explain
> the
> radio resetting to factory settings. *That* is why I'm convinced that the
> OP
> either has a bad battery, or bad connections between the battery and
> ground.

My mechanic had the car while I was on vacation and took the dash apart
trying to trace it. He found a wire from the radio had rubbed against
something metal causing a short. This in turn had melted a connection on the
fuse block. Replaced the fuse block and fixed the wire. All seems to be well
now.
"Bob Shuman" > wrote in message
...
> Doug,
>
> From the post, it is not at all clear when the radio got reset to its
> factory settings ... I was simply assuming it could have been during
> earlier troubleshooting and diagnosis when the battery could have been
> temporarily disconnected. I figure better to give a more exhaustive list
> and let the OP make his own decisions from there. In any event, based on
> the limited info that has been provided, we seem to be in agreement that
> the mechanic may be overlooking the obvious.
>
> In any event, I wish the OP well and hope he posts a more descriptive
> failure mode and the ultimate root cause to benefit others.
>
> Bob
>
> "Doug Miller" > wrote in message
> ...
>> In article >, "Bob Shuman"
>> > wrote:
>>>Doug,
>>>
>>>I definitely agree with you (battery connections/cables or battery). A
>>>resistive connection drops the voltage and prevents sufficient current to
>>>engage the starter.
>>>
>>>If not that then the next most likely cause would be the starter
>>>solenoid,
>>>followed by the starter relay, ignition switch, neutral/park safety
>>>interlock, or the engine and chassis grounds.
>>
>> Of that list, though, only the engine and chassis grounds would explain
>> the
>> radio resetting to factory settings. *That* is why I'm convinced that the
>> OP
>> either has a bad battery, or bad connections between the battery and
>> ground.
>
>