1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3 "Check Engine" Lig

The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of driving and
there seems to be no engine problems. While not for the faint of
heart, I even shut off the engine while going down the road and
restarted the engine to have the light come back on after another 10
minutes of driving.

Even after swapping out the engine due to a different problem, the
light still comes on.

Any ideas?

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"dcsharpsr" > wrote in message
news:1_595568_575210d6e300d083202f40abb7695b3a@aut oforumz.com...
> The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of driving and
> there seems to be no engine problems. While not for the faint of
> heart, I even shut off the engine while going down the road and
> restarted the engine to have the light come back on after another 10
> minutes of driving.
>
> Even after swapping out the engine due to a different problem, the
> light still comes on.
>
> Any ideas?
>
Try reading the engine codes for a starter!

dcsharpsr wrote:

> The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of driving and
> there seems to be no engine problems. While not for the faint of
> heart, I even shut off the engine while going down the road and
> restarted the engine to have the light come back on after another 10
> minutes of driving.
>
> Even after swapping out the engine due to a different problem, the
> light still comes on.
>
> Any ideas?

No, not until you tell us what diagnostic code is set concurrent with
the check engine light.


Matt

"Matt Whiting" wrote:
> dcsharpsr wrote:
>
> > The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of
> driving and
> > there seems to be no engine problems. While not for the
> faint of
> > heart, I even shut off the engine while going down the road
> and
> > restarted the engine to have the light come back on after
> another 10
> > minutes of driving.
> >
> > Even after swapping out the engine due to a different
> problem, the
> > light still comes on.
> >
> > Any ideas?
>
> No, not until you tell us what diagnostic code is set
> concurrent with
> the check engine light.
>
>
> Matt

I’m not a mechanic and don’t have the equipment to read these codes.
And, by the time I take it to a mechanic, they charge $70 for a
diagnostics test to read the codes to find a $10 part is at fault. Is
there a way to read these codes without such equipment? Without being
able to read the codes, is there some general ideas of some of the
things that only would cause the Check Engine light to come on after
having driven down the road for at least ten minutes that I could
check? One person mentioned that a bad gas cap could cause it and I
did replace it to no avail. I do remember that the problem started
shortly after replacing the fuel pump in the gas tank.

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On Tue, 7 Jun 2005, dcsharpsr wrote:

> I=92m not a mechanic and don=92t have the equipment to read these codes.

Got the ignition key to the vehicle? Then you have the equipment to read
the codes.

To check the computer codes:

With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on,
leaving it "ON". Do not
go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.

Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go
off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored.
For instance, if it flashes:

flash <pause> flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash

Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes
stored. Check the codes and report what you find.

"Daniel J. Stern" wrote:
> On Tue, 7 Jun 2005, dcsharpsr wrote:
>
> > I’m not a mechanic and don’t have the equipment to read
> these codes.
>
> Got the ignition key to the vehicle? Then you have the
> equipment to read
> the codes.
>
> To check the computer codes:
>
> With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on,
> leaving it "ON". Do not
> go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.
>
> Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn
> on, then go
> off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have
> been stored.
> For instance, if it flashes:
>
> flash <pause> flash flash
> <long pause>
> flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash
> <long pause>
> flash flash flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash
> flash
>
> Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and
> five) and a
> 55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself,
> "No codes
> stored. Check the codes and report what you find.

I never knew you could do that! I did what you said and the following
codes were presented in order...

12
32
14
24
11
22
55

It will be interesting to know the translation...thanks for all your
help!

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On Fri, 10 Jun 2005, dcsharpsr wrote:

> 12

Start of codes

> 32

EGR system fault

> 14

MAP sensor voltage out of range

> 24

Throttle Position Sensor voltage out of range (over 4.96v)

> 11

No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (faulty distributor
pickup, if so equipped) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss
of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor signal.

> 22

Coolant temperature sensor signal out of range.

> 55

End of codes

Yep, I'd say you've got some problems with your van...

"Daniel J. Stern" wrote:
> On Fri, 10 Jun 2005, dcsharpsr wrote:
>
> > 12
>
> Start of codes
>
> > 32
>
> EGR system fault
>
> > 14
>
> MAP sensor voltage out of range
>
> > 24
>
> Throttle Position Sensor voltage out of range (over 4.96v)
>
> > 11
>
> No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (faulty
> distributor
> pickup, if so equipped) OR timing belt skipped one or more
> teeth; OR loss
> of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor signal.
>
> > 22
>
> Coolant temperature sensor signal out of range.
>
> > 55
>
> End of codes
>
> Yep, I'd say you've got some problems with your van...

Wow! I have a few things to look at to say the least. I know why the
egr fault as the replacement engine (1992) did not have the egr hookup
that my 1994 did. I’ll give this to my son and see if he knows what to
do to resolve these errors.

Thanks to all for all the help!! This is a great forum!!!

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I had the check engine light come on with mine as well. No codes for
MONTHS. It was really ticking me off. Finally, I was getting
occasional spit-back and los of power.

I took it to my trusted shop. After a few minutes of tinkering, it
turned out to be the O2 sensor. I never did get a code, but all the
tech got from the O2 sensor was a square wave. This sqaure wave
averages out to a 50% signal. Sort of a "best guess". But the signal
did not change or track with varying engine conditions.

As soon as the new sensor was in, he showed me how the signal returned
to "normal" varying with conditions like opening the throttle.

The check engine light has not come on since.

A VERY quick, and relatively inexpensive fix. )

On 6 Jun 2005 10:35:38 -0400, dcsharpsr
> wrote:

>The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of driving and
>there seems to be no engine problems. While not for the faint of
>heart, I even shut off the engine while going down the road and
>restarted the engine to have the light come back on after another 10
>minutes of driving.
>
>Even after swapping out the engine due to a different problem, the
>light still comes on.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>--
>Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
>Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
>Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Chrysler-1...ict122458.html
>Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=595568

"" wrote:
> I had the check engine light come on with mine as well. No
> codes for
> MONTHS. It was really ticking me off. Finally, I was getting
> occasional spit-back and los of power.
>
> I took it to my trusted shop. After a few minutes of
> tinkering, it
> turned out to be the O2 sensor. I never did get a code, but
> all the
> tech got from the O2 sensor was a square wave. This sqaure
> wave
> averages out to a 50% signal. Sort of a "best guess". But the
> signal
> did not change or track with varying engine conditions.
>
> As soon as the new sensor was in, he showed me how the signal
> returned
> to "normal" varying with conditions like opening the throttle.
>
> The check engine light has not come on since.
>
> A VERY quick, and relatively inexpensive fix. )
>
> On 6 Jun 2005 10:35:38 -0400, dcsharpsr
> > wrote:
>
> >The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of
> driving and
> >there seems to be no engine problems. While not for the faint
> of
> >heart, I even shut off the engine while going down the road
> and
> >restarted the engine to have the light come back on after
> another 10
> >minutes of driving.
> >
> >Even after swapping out the engine due to a different
> problem, the
> >light still comes on.
> >
> >Any ideas?
> >
> >--
> >Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
> >Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet
> standards
> >Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Chrysler-1...ict122458.html
> >Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=595568

As reported earlier, there were several error codes present on the
computer diagnostics some of which were due to changing out the ’94
engine with a ’92 engine. I have some things to look at bit
interesting to note that I went to the state inspection center and
there posted on the waiting room window was a note about "Check
Engine" lights being on. Topping the list was the fuel cap not being
able to hold pressure. How that relates to the diagnostics codes I
don’t know but without doing any changes, the light now sometimes
doesn’t come on on my drive to/from work. Interesting.

BTW...the car failed NOx (too high) and obviously they don’t read the
computers codes on some earlier cars otherwise they would have seen at
least a dozen on mine. I have to find out how to reset the codes to
get a fresh report.