fuel tank leak - epoxy question

wrote:
> With an AWD Subaru, the rear differential has to be removed (which
> means most of the axle) for removal of the fuel tank. There is a small
> but proficient leak at the seam, and being that I don't have a
> hydraulic lift, removing the fuel tank would take a very long time and
> leave very little room to work.....Perhaps the individual posting knows
> little about the fuel tanks on AWD Subarus, and the labor and cost
> involved...............What I asked (and believe I did ask) is what
> sort of epoxy will withstand the corrosive properties of gasoline, not
> suggestions on what to do with the tank. I know what needs to
> ultimately be done. This is not a difficult question, unless your sole
> purpose is to seem like a jack-ass. I am painfully aware that the only
> real fix is to replace the whole tank, but THIS IS NOT THE QUESTION I
> AM ASKING!! If you have no useful/pertinent information on EPOXIES that
> can withstand gasoline, please DO NOT POST in this thread. Start your
> own thread for people who are unable to answer simple questions. Thank
> you very much for your useless information/****ing me
> off................
>
Yeah those are fun. Run it so you are SURE that the gas is below the
seam. Go to a parts store or order online a Versa Chem/Syon Fuel tank
repair kit. Use a brass wire brush to cleans the rust and dirt off of
the seam, go well past the current leaking area and check for other weak
spots as well. Get the tank as clean as you can in the repair
area(s)without making sparks. Wipe the area down real good with a fast
drying solvent (acetone, lacquer thinner, Naphtha) No water based
cleaners. Mix up the epoxy type material in the kit and make the
repairs. Let it cure and fill the tank and enjoy. I've used it a bunch
of times and never had a problem. They make different types for
different repairs as well. The radiator tank kit also works real good.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/c...ants/40754.htm
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...564?n=15684181

are the type you want.

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go to your local auto store and pick-up some (magnum steel)-- it will work
good..IMPORTANT follow directions to the T

autoguy

wrote in article
.com>...
> Thanks for the suggestion fweddy.....Sorry I got a bit upset, but I
> really do know the best solution to this problem, but am P-O-O-R. I
> KNOW the tank will need to be replaced soon/eventually.......

> If there are any more good suggestions (asised from getting a
> $^#@&!*^$(^%&$*@&(^%(@(#@) new fuel tank, please respond. If you feel
> the desire to state the obvious, I hope you die in a fire.............
> Thanks in advance -
> (not actually this aggressive/cruel - just wanting an answer from
> someone with a similar experience)
>
> jeremiah
>
>


I'm not going to suggest you replace the tank......but, I AM going to state
the obvious.

I'm going to suggest you replace the car with one that you can afford to
have maintained and repaired.......

......for example, one that doesn't require the removal of the entire rear
suspension for something as simple as a gas tank replacement.

YOU bought the car - a complicated car that, obviously, has some
serviceability issues - so don't get all ****y with people who offer you
the absolute best solution.....which IS to replace the tank.

YOU want to patch it, and YOU want validation of your ideas, and YOU get
****ed when people answer your question candidly - which happens to NOT
agree with the route YOU want to take.

Patches are PATCHES......

.......something to get you home from a trip.....

.......NOT long-term solutions.......

All your "patch" would require would be a minor collision to tear the patch
loose, split the tank open at its weak seam, spill gasoline, and cause a
fire where none should have happened.

I don't give a schidt about YOU. I'm concerned with the women and her kids
in the car you hit, then turned into a firebomb with a weakened, patched
gas tank.

If you cannot afford to maintain and repair the car properly, you cannot
afford the car!!!!

* wrote:
> wrote in article
> .com>...
> > Thanks for the suggestion fweddy.....Sorry I got a bit upset, but I
> > really do know the best solution to this problem, but am P-O-O-R. I
> > KNOW the tank will need to be replaced soon/eventually.......
>
> > If there are any more good suggestions (asised from getting a
> > $^#@&!*^$(^%&$*@&(^%(@(#@) new fuel tank, please respond. If you feel
> > the desire to state the obvious, I hope you die in a fire.............
> > Thanks in advance -
> > (not actually this aggressive/cruel - just wanting an answer from
> > someone with a similar experience)
> >
> > jeremiah
> >
> >
>
>
> I'm not going to suggest you replace the tank......but, I AM going to state
> the obvious.
>
> I'm going to suggest you replace the car with one that you can afford to
> have maintained and repaired.......
>
> .....for example, one that doesn't require the removal of the entire rear
> suspension for something as simple as a gas tank replacement.
>
> YOU bought the car - a complicated car that, obviously, has some
> serviceability issues - so don't get all ****y with people who offer you
> the absolute best solution.....which IS to replace the tank.
>
> YOU want to patch it, and YOU want validation of your ideas, and YOU get
> ****ed when people answer your question candidly - which happens to NOT
> agree with the route YOU want to take.
>
> Patches are PATCHES......
>
> ......something to get you home from a trip.....
>
> ......NOT long-term solutions.......
>
> All your "patch" would require would be a minor collision to tear the patch
> loose, split the tank open at its weak seam, spill gasoline, and cause a
> fire where none should have happened.
>
> I don't give a schidt about YOU. I'm concerned with the women and her kids
> in the car you hit, then turned into a firebomb with a weakened, patched
> gas tank.
>
> If you cannot afford to maintain and repair the car properly, you cannot
> afford the car!!!!

Such an intriguing reply.......thanks for not caring about me being
turned into napalm - that's really good of you. And I'm a much more
productive member of socity than a child, so therefore, would you not
want me to live instead? More children can be made, and if they're
young, how can they have been around long enough for anyone to be
attached to them?

Secondly, the car is bought and paid for, and is an incredibly
reliable/safe car. I keep my car going DIY-style and don't feeling like
purchasing/installing a hydraulic life for my driveway. I'm not sure my
landlord would approve. I also find it interesting that you think
perhaps i should simply purchace a different car. In a perfect world,
we'd all drive BMWs with 50k miles on them and never worry about
anything more than changing the oil. But, being that this is the "real"
world, car parts tend to fail and the best option is to repair them in
the most economically prudent fashion. If only I had foreseen the
failure of the fuel tank seam, perhaps I'd have bought a Yugo or some
disposable car like that. A Subaru is a responsible car, and that was
the decision........

Perhaps you also had a bit of trouble understanding the point of my
post - which was nowhere along the lines of "how do I replace the fuel
tank?" I hate to have to point that out again, and I have gotten good
responses. I am not looking for people to justify or validate the
decision I have made to repair the tank, but only for others who have
had similar experiences. If I sense that the patch is going to fail and
lead to a fireball, I'll certainly not be driving it. I've never been
in an exploding car and don't want to start now. Does your wife or kids
need a car? I've got a Subie I'll sell you.........

Thanks to all the folks who were able to answer the question I asked. I
still have a hard time understanding why you would answer a question
that hasdn't been asked, but I guess there is no itelligence test that
must be passed for access to these forums.....

wrote:
>
> Thanks to all the folks who were able to answer the question I asked. I
> still have a hard time understanding why you would answer a question
> that hasdn't been asked, but I guess there is no itelligence test that
> must be passed for access to these forums.....
>

relax. the other guy was probably just grumpy.
Or he's like me, and has had no luck patching gas tanks. I've had two
cars with leaking tanks - both of them were basically rusted to nothing
- no patching would work.

When you get free advice, you get what you pay for. There are lots of
helpful people here, some people who are helpful but suffer from PMS,
some people who are helpful, but are dead wrong, and the usual
collection of nitwits and assholes.

Ray

wrote in article
. com>...
>
>
> Such an intriguing reply.......thanks for not caring about me being
> turned into napalm - that's really good of you.

Since YOU choose to effect such a feeble, potentially dangerous patch
repair, and continue to drive the vehicle, I could only assume that YOU had
even LESS concern for your own life than I - so I was expressing concern
for the potential innocent victims who did not have the opportunity to have
any input into your idiotic concept of a safe repair, and your stupid
decision to take a chance with a patch in order to avoid the work involved
in doing the repair correctly.


> And I'm a much more
> productive member of socity than a child, so therefore, would you not
> want me to live instead? More children can be made, and if they're
> young, how can they have been around long enough for anyone to be
> attached to them?


What a truly noble statement.......

"Screw the kid. Save ME!!!"

It tells me much more about you than you will ever know.

I wouldn't be planning on a Nobel Prize in the near - OR distant - future,
if I were you......


> Secondly, the car is bought and paid for, and is an incredibly
> reliable/safe car.


A car with a leaking/patched/weak gas tank is neither incredibly reliable
nor is it incredibly safe.


> If I sense that the patch is going to fail and
> lead to a fireball, I'll certainly not be driving it. I've never been
> in an exploding car and don't want to start now.


And, exactly what data bank will you be using to make that decision?

As far as your ability to assess exactly what IS and IS NOT safe.....

How many patched gas tanks/fuel systems have you actually observed?

Better yet, how many FAILED patches have you ever observed in order to
assess your patch against a failed patch?

If your answer is "NONE" or "Near None" to the above questions, then I
would suggest you are not in any sort of position to determine with any
sort of accuracy exactly what IS and IS NOT susceptible to failure.

Of all the fuel system patches I have ever observed come into my shop over
the years - and I've seeen scores in 40 + years - I have YET to see one
that I would consider safe enough to drive the car.

A patch is a "PATCH"....NOT a repair!


Have you EVER observed the result of a failed patch?

Have you EVER towed away a car in which someone was burned to death?

It has a smell that's a bit like the one you get when passing a Burger
King, but not quite. There's a bit of a dump fire smell to it, too.

The REAL jolt is that you KNOW it isn't hamburger, chicken or steak that
you're smelling. It was a living human being just a few hours
earlier......but, then again, you've already given us your take on respect
for human life.

I've had that experience a few times in more than 40 years of automotive
service and repair.....The last one - some 20 years ago - was the LAST time
I ever went out on an accident call. That one was the straw......a mother
and two kids rear-ended by a drunk - who survived.



........I guess there is no itelligence test that
> must be passed for access to these forums.....

.....the proof of which is your assinine concept of a "safe" repair
concerning flammable liquids in transport, and your incredible disdain for
your fellow human.

"Al Bundy" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> wrote:
>> Thanks for the suggestion fweddy.....Sorry I got a bit upset, but I
>> really do know the best solution to this problem, but am P-O-O-R. I
>> KNOW the tank will need to be replaced soon/eventually.......I have
>> Googled (the best tool in the known universe) and have found some good
>> options. Its a small leak, but when you leave a small leak for two
>> days.......
>> JB Weld seems to be the best option now, but I was hoping that someone
>> had a similar problem and was successful with a certain method. I am a
>> college student working at a golf course for the summer, and need to be
>> as cheap as possible. Replacing the tank is a LOT of cash. The question
>> I posted asked nothing about replacement tanks, but asked about
>> epoxies. Perhaps I'm a little too stringent with my standards in regard
>> to answering questions................................The
>> reading/research I've done indicates that JB Weld is the best option.
>> If there are any more good suggestions (asised from getting a
>> $^#@&!*^$(^%&$*@&(^%(@(#@) new fuel tank, please respond. If you feel
>> the desire to state the obvious, I hope you die in a fire.............
>> Thanks in advance -
>> (not actually this aggressive/cruel - just wanting an answer from
>> someone with a similar experience)
>>
>> jeremiah
>
> The auto parts stores, even hardware stores, sell knead and press
> epoxies that resist gas and solvents. The package states they are for
> fuel tanks. They have been around for years and they work if applied
> properly. I had it last the life of one car. I favor this over JB
> because it shrinks very slightly and grabs the surface. That's what the
> package says and it seems to work that way. I'd be afraid of JB poping
> off suddenly.
>
Hey onesandzeroes, Al surely knows what he is talking about here. I've
converted GM diesel cars to gas engines--nearly 60 of them--and most of them
we drilled a hole in the lowest point to get ALL the diesel out of the tank.
And we used this 2-part stuff, consistency like modeling clay, from
AutoZone, kneaded it together, and pasted it in and around the
carefully-sanded hole, as per the instructions. Never had the 1st complaint
about any leak, and 50 of those cars were sold in and around a small
10,000-population town where just about everybody knows everybody.
Still see a pickup--with 2 tanks & 2 patched holes--running around my
new home town after about 19 years. I see the couple often at breakfast,
and all they've done to the pickup is have it painted one time. That STUFF
works!!! s

"sdlomi2" > wrote in message
...

> Hey onesandzeroes, Al surely knows what he is talking about here. I've
> converted GM diesel cars to gas engines--nearly 60 of them--and most of
> them we drilled a hole in the lowest point to get ALL the diesel out of
> the tank. And we used this 2-part stuff, consistency like modeling clay,
> from AutoZone, kneaded it together, and pasted it in and around the
> carefully-sanded hole, as per the instructions. Never had the 1st
> complaint about any leak, and 50 of those cars were sold in and around a
> small 10,000-population town where just about everybody knows everybody.
> Still see a pickup--with 2 tanks & 2 patched holes--running around my
> new home town after about 19 years. I see the couple often at breakfast,
> and all they've done to the pickup is have it painted one time. That
> STUFF works!!! s

I would be a little worried about a spark from the drill... how about making
the hole with a nail? I've heard of that being done, followed by an epoxy
patch, to drain water out of the tank.

But in any case, it's one thing to patch a small, self-contained hole that
is not accompanied by any structural damage to the tank. Didn't the
original poster have a seam coming apart?

On Sat, 5 Aug 2006 11:00:15 -0400, "mc"
> wrote:

>"sdlomi2" > wrote in message
...
>
>> Hey onesandzeroes, Al surely knows what he is talking about here. I've
>> converted GM diesel cars to gas engines--nearly 60 of them--and most of
>> them we drilled a hole in the lowest point to get ALL the diesel out of
>> the tank. And we used this 2-part stuff, consistency like modeling clay,
>> from AutoZone, kneaded it together, and pasted it in and around the
>> carefully-sanded hole, as per the instructions. Never had the 1st
>> complaint about any leak, and 50 of those cars were sold in and around a
>> small 10,000-population town where just about everybody knows everybody.
>> Still see a pickup--with 2 tanks & 2 patched holes--running around my
>> new home town after about 19 years. I see the couple often at breakfast,
>> and all they've done to the pickup is have it painted one time. That
>> STUFF works!!! s
>
>I would be a little worried about a spark from the drill...

They got away with that because its not very easy to light diesel
fuel. Throw a match in a pool of diesel fuel and the match will go
out.

> how about making
>the hole with a nail? I've heard of that being done, followed by an epoxy
>patch, to drain water out of the tank.
>
>But in any case, it's one thing to patch a small, self-contained hole that
>is not accompanied by any structural damage to the tank. Didn't the
>original poster have a seam coming apart?

He did and that's why the epoxy is a really poor idea.
But the OP has made up his mind that he does not want to know that.

Don
www.donsautomotive.com

>
>

I would give one of the gas tank repair products a shot. Permatex
makes a couple of products specifically for this. Follow the
instructions and do all the prep work. I repaired a motorcycle tank
once with JB Weld, the repair lasted for about a year and I had to redo
it. Check for leaks after the repair and keep an eye on it. If these
armchair computer mechanics were half as right as they think they are
then they wouldnt even sell repair kits - The product liablility would
be so great the manufacturers wouldnt get near it. Good luck with your
repair.