Brake Job...?

I put some new lower control arms on my Mazda a couple weeks ago, and a
cursory check revealed my front pads were getting pretty low. So I ordered
up a pile of parts, and today was just warm enough to get the fronts done.

Now, I got this car (1989 Mazda 626) back in December of 2006, and looked
at the brakes in April 2007. I replaced the pads back then, but the rotors
looked in pretty good shape, so I did the pads and did some PM on the
calipers. That was ~47,000 miles ago. So, the pads were pretty much gone.
Again I took it apart, got the new pads out, did some PM on the calipers
and...the freakin rotors had hardly worn down 1mm! I don't know what they
were or when they were put on the car, but I pulled them and replaced them
only because I got the new rotors mail order and it's too much of a hassle
to return them. The one good thing was they looked just like the ones I
removed.

I'm guessing the organic pads I used help attribute to the low wear on the
rotors. Since the car is a spit shy of 200,000 miles I am assuming this
will probably be it's last brake job. Maybe...

"Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" > wrote in message news:EDTep.4520>
> I'm guessing the organic pads I used help attribute to the low wear on the
> rotors. Since the car is a spit shy of 200,000 miles I am assuming this
> will probably be it's last brake job. Maybe...
>

Maybe and maybe not. If you put new rotors on, and had them trued
and prepared before they were installed, that is a step in the right
direction.

If you had lost only a millimeter, why did you replace them at all? Were
they
warped too much, scored, or did you just decide to give your FLAPS and
early Christmas.

If you bought GOOD pads, they will last a reasonably long time. If your
rotors were straight and properly prepared, they should do OK.

If you like to replace parts for the fun of it, bless you.

On Sat, 12 Mar 2011 18:51:10 -0600, hls wrote:

>
> "Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" > wrote in message
> news:EDTep.4520>
>> I'm guessing the organic pads I used help attribute to the low wear on
>> the rotors. Since the car is a spit shy of 200,000 miles I am assuming
>> this will probably be it's last brake job. Maybe...
>>
>>
> Maybe and maybe not. If you put new rotors on, and had them trued and
> prepared before they were installed, that is a step in the right
> direction.
>
> If you had lost only a millimeter, why did you replace them at all? Were
> they
> warped too much, scored, or did you just decide to give your FLAPS and
> early Christmas.
>
> If you bought GOOD pads, they will last a reasonably long time. If your
> rotors were straight and properly prepared, they should do OK.
>
> If you like to replace parts for the fun of it, bless you.

Not really. Like I said, I did a quick inspection. I have never had rotors
wear so well! So when I saw how far down the pads were I figured the
rotors must be well done. I was surprised...both sides the pads were worn
well down, but the rotors hardly at all.

I think the last pads I put on were AutoZone's "better". I won't touch
ValueCrap, although I put their lowest grade battery in my s00b three
years ago and it's still going strong.

"Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" > wrote in message
news
> On Sat, 12 Mar 2011 18:51:10 -0600, hls wrote:
>
>>
>> "Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" > wrote in message
>> news:EDTep.4520>
>>> I'm guessing the organic pads I used help attribute to the low wear on
>>> the rotors. Since the car is a spit shy of 200,000 miles I am assuming
>>> this will probably be it's last brake job. Maybe...
>>>
>>>
>> Maybe and maybe not. If you put new rotors on, and had them trued and
>> prepared before they were installed, that is a step in the right
>> direction.
>>
>> If you had lost only a millimeter, why did you replace them at all? Were
>> they
>> warped too much, scored, or did you just decide to give your FLAPS and
>> early Christmas.
>>
>> If you bought GOOD pads, they will last a reasonably long time. If your
>> rotors were straight and properly prepared, they should do OK.
>>
>> If you like to replace parts for the fun of it, bless you.
>
> Not really. Like I said, I did a quick inspection. I have never had rotors
> wear so well! So when I saw how far down the pads were I figured the
> rotors must be well done. I was surprised...both sides the pads were worn
> well down, but the rotors hardly at all.
>
> I think the last pads I put on were AutoZone's "better". I won't touch
> ValueCrap, although I put their lowest grade battery in my s00b three
> years ago and it's still going strong.
>

I have used Autozone's pads, but I use the very best they have, and they
are quite good. I never replace rotors unless they need to be
replaced;i.e.,
they are excessively worn or warped beyond the point that cutting them is
a good choice.

If the pads are not wearing evenly, then it is time to start planning what
to
do about the caliper, IMO. I'm still not afraid of rebuilding calipers but
rebuild vs replace would be an economic decision as much as anything.

"Gary L. Burnore" > wrote in message >
> FYI, anything after 2K (really, 1999 too) are a snap to rebuild. I
> replace brakes more often, but only because I wear them out faster.
> When I do, as you, I go for the top of the line at either AutoZone or
> NAPA. I find I need to replace rotors about every other change of
> pads. (Heat + Rotor = Replace Please) and I rebuild the calipers on
> every 4th replacement. The kits are cheap and, with a power bleeder
> (Craigslist, yay!) it's a one-person operation.


Let's see. I've been rebuilding my calipers since the 70's. Only one
I ever failed on was a FIAT, and that was because the bleedcock
wouldnt come out of the lousy aluminum caliper body. I ended up
snapping it off, and it was more expensive to have it machined out
than to go to a junkyard and get another one.

If rotors are cheaper than the machining, of course one could replace
rotors if they get a little wrinkled or if they wear too much. If they are
the $70-80 rotors, I find I can normally get them turned for less than
$15 and they work just fine. Very often, they dont need machining,
but can be surface prepped with a little fine sandpaper on a rotary
sander, just enough to break the glaze. Even that is probably not
really necessary.

In the past, I have not cleaned the hub surface and the rotor surface
around the lug holes, nor was I checking the assembly for runout.
That will change if I ever do another brake job, more out of curiosity
than anything else.. I have never had a properly machined rotor
give any out of plane problems when freshly installed, but I have
run into problems after some jake slams the wheels on with an
impact wrench.

I know the above statement goes against some people's training and
belief systems, but it is true in my experience, and has been noticed on
several occasions. I will not, Lord help me, get into another thread on
this.

On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 09:09:28 -0500, hls wrote:

>
> "Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" > wrote in message
> news
>> On Sat, 12 Mar 2011 18:51:10 -0600, hls wrote:
>>
>>
>>> "Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" > wrote in message
>>> news:EDTep.4520>
>>>> I'm guessing the organic pads I used help attribute to the low wear on
>>>> the rotors. Since the car is a spit shy of 200,000 miles I am assuming
>>>> this will probably be it's last brake job. Maybe...
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Maybe and maybe not. If you put new rotors on, and had them trued and
>>> prepared before they were installed, that is a step in the right
>>> direction.
>>>
>>> If you had lost only a millimeter, why did you replace them at all?
>>> Were they
>>> warped too much, scored, or did you just decide to give your FLAPS and
>>> early Christmas.
>>>
>>> If you bought GOOD pads, they will last a reasonably long time. If
>>> your rotors were straight and properly prepared, they should do OK.
>>>
>>> If you like to replace parts for the fun of it, bless you.
>>
>> Not really. Like I said, I did a quick inspection. I have never had
>> rotors wear so well! So when I saw how far down the pads were I figured
>> the rotors must be well done. I was surprised...both sides the pads were
>> worn well down, but the rotors hardly at all.
>>
>> I think the last pads I put on were AutoZone's "better". I won't touch
>> ValueCrap, although I put their lowest grade battery in my s00b three
>> years ago and it's still going strong.
>>
>>
> I have used Autozone's pads, but I use the very best they have, and they
> are quite good. I never replace rotors unless they need to be
> replaced;i.e.,
> they are excessively worn or warped beyond the point that cutting them is
> a good choice.
>
> If the pads are not wearing evenly, then it is time to start planning
> what to
> do about the caliper, IMO. I'm still not afraid of rebuilding calipers
> but rebuild vs replace would be an economic decision as much as anything.


I have to admit (knocks on wood) for a car with 200,000 on it I have had
fewer brake troubles than with any other car! Even my beloved Toyotas. The
pad wear was nice and even, almost perfect. The calipers are in good
shape; the boots are old but intact, and the sliders work well. One slider
was a little gummy but a touch up with 1200 grit paper and some light
grease should take care of that. Brake performance was very good before I
replaced everything, now it is outstanding!

I have to go through UMASS at least every other day, and the kids just
don't think anything about walking out right in front of a ton of steel
doing 20 MPH. Good brakes are a must.

On 03/13/2011 11:21 AM, Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 09:09:28 -0500, hls wrote:
>
>>
>> "Hachiroku > wrote in message
>> news
>>> On Sat, 12 Mar 2011 18:51:10 -0600, hls wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> "Hachiroku > wrote in message
>>>> news:EDTep.4520>
>>>>> I'm guessing the organic pads I used help attribute to the low wear on
>>>>> the rotors. Since the car is a spit shy of 200,000 miles I am assuming
>>>>> this will probably be it's last brake job. Maybe...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Maybe and maybe not. If you put new rotors on, and had them trued and
>>>> prepared before they were installed, that is a step in the right
>>>> direction.
>>>>
>>>> If you had lost only a millimeter, why did you replace them at all?
>>>> Were they
>>>> warped too much, scored, or did you just decide to give your FLAPS and
>>>> early Christmas.
>>>>
>>>> If you bought GOOD pads, they will last a reasonably long time. If
>>>> your rotors were straight and properly prepared, they should do OK.
>>>>
>>>> If you like to replace parts for the fun of it, bless you.
>>>
>>> Not really. Like I said, I did a quick inspection. I have never had
>>> rotors wear so well! So when I saw how far down the pads were I figured
>>> the rotors must be well done. I was surprised...both sides the pads were
>>> worn well down, but the rotors hardly at all.
>>>
>>> I think the last pads I put on were AutoZone's "better". I won't touch
>>> ValueCrap, although I put their lowest grade battery in my s00b three
>>> years ago and it's still going strong.
>>>
>>>
>> I have used Autozone's pads, but I use the very best they have, and they
>> are quite good. I never replace rotors unless they need to be
>> replaced;i.e.,
>> they are excessively worn or warped beyond the point that cutting them is
>> a good choice.
>>
>> If the pads are not wearing evenly, then it is time to start planning
>> what to
>> do about the caliper, IMO. I'm still not afraid of rebuilding calipers
>> but rebuild vs replace would be an economic decision as much as anything.
>
>
> I have to admit (knocks on wood) for a car with 200,000 on it I have had
> fewer brake troubles than with any other car! Even my beloved Toyotas. The
> pad wear was nice and even, almost perfect. The calipers are in good
> shape; the boots are old but intact, and the sliders work well. One slider
> was a little gummy but a touch up with 1200 grit paper and some light
> grease should take care of that. Brake performance was very good before I
> replaced everything, now it is outstanding!
>
> I have to go through UMASS at least every other day, and the kids just
> don't think anything about walking out right in front of a ton of steel
> doing 20 MPH. Good brakes are a must.
>
>

I've never had serious problems with brakes on any car, although I tend
to go over-the-top when they do need attention (e.g. replacing hoses
just on principle due to time/mileage)

I did buy a '67 Dart years ago that had "bad brakes" and a "noise from
the rear wheels." The brakes were so worn that the pistons had come out
of the LR wheel cylinder and were rolling around in the drum! Yikes!
But that wasn't the fault of the car; some new shoes and cylinders and a
little anal-retentive wire brushing and lubing of the adjusters (and
installation of new self-adjuster kits) and all was better.

The one (actually two) exception to my "no trouble with brakes" rule has
been my company cars. 2005 and 2008 Impalas. Both have needed brakes
at about the 50K mark, which I attribute to the incredibly loose torque
converter in those cars, causing one to have to ride the brakes far more
than in any other car I've ever owned. Even in manual second, I have to
ride the brakes to keep the speed from creeping up over 25 MPH on a
slight downgrade coming into town. I'm not really sure how this isn't
considered "freewheeling" which is prohibited by some FMVSS or other...
The '08 also had badly warped rotors when I got it (at about 17K
miles) and they were warped again although not as badly by the time the
pads wore out.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"Hachiroku ????" > wrote in message
...
>I put some new lower control arms on my Mazda a couple weeks ago, and a
> cursory check revealed my front pads were getting pretty low. So I ordered
> up a pile of parts, and today was just warm enough to get the fronts done.
>
> Now, I got this car (1989 Mazda 626) back in December of 2006, and looked
> at the brakes in April 2007. I replaced the pads back then, but the rotors
> looked in pretty good shape, so I did the pads and did some PM on the
> calipers. That was ~47,000 miles ago. So, the pads were pretty much gone.
> Again I took it apart, got the new pads out, did some PM on the calipers
> and...the freakin rotors had hardly worn down 1mm! I don't know what they
> were or when they were put on the car, but I pulled them and replaced them
> only because I got the new rotors mail order and it's too much of a hassle
> to return them. The one good thing was they looked just like the ones I
> removed.
>
> I'm guessing the organic pads I used help attribute to the low wear on the
> rotors. Since the car is a spit shy of 200,000 miles I am assuming this
> will probably be it's last brake job. Maybe...
>
>

It is not unusual to see less than 1 mm of rotor wear for a set of pads, and
I would probably be looking for different brake pads or rotors if the rotors
were wearing that quickly.

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク wrote:
> I put some new lower control arms on my Mazda a couple weeks ago, and a
> cursory check revealed my front pads were getting pretty low. So I ordered
> up a pile of parts, and today was just warm enough to get the fronts done.
>
> Now, I got this car (1989 Mazda 626) back in December of 2006, and looked
> at the brakes in April 2007. I replaced the pads back then, but the rotors
> looked in pretty good shape, so I did the pads and did some PM on the
> calipers. That was ~47,000 miles ago. So, the pads were pretty much gone.
> Again I took it apart, got the new pads out, did some PM on the calipers
> and...the freakin rotors had hardly worn down 1mm! I don't know what they
> were or when they were put on the car, but I pulled them and replaced them
> only because I got the new rotors mail order and it's too much of a hassle
> to return them. The one good thing was they looked just like the ones I
> removed.
>
> I'm guessing the organic pads I used help attribute to the low wear on the
> rotors. Since the car is a spit shy of 200,000 miles I am assuming this
> will probably be it's last brake job. Maybe...
>
>
The rotors on my vehicles have always went 150-200k miles without
needing any work or replacement. I just keep replacing pads.
I drive Houston traffic every day.
Will see on the Kia. Things are lighter and made of poor quality
materials nowadays and the Kia has a bit of brake pulsation at
61k miles.

Paul in Houston TX > wrote:
>>
>The rotors on my vehicles have always went 150-200k miles without
>needing any work or replacement. I just keep replacing pads.

Mine were needing replacement every 30k to 40k miles. Then I stopped
letting the kids at the tire store rotate my tires and started doing it
on blocks at home with a torque wrench. No more problems....
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."