torqueflite 727 problem, need help....please. Long, sorry.

"DeserTBoB" > wrote in message
...
> On 26 Sep 2006 17:48:59 -0700, "cjboater" > wrote:
>
>> I'm going to try adjusting the tv cable a bit more tonight and see if
>>the shift points get better. <snip>
>
> There's only one optimal position for the TV cable to be in...lever
> fully actuated at full throttle.

Absolutely wrong!!!

Adjusting the cable/linkage so that the transmission lever is full back at
WOT most often results in late part throttle upshifts or no WOT upshifts.
When properly adjusted the lever will be NEAR full back but there will be
some travel left.

The "optimal" setting is one that suits the individual driver. As long as
the transmission will kickdown at WOT at a road speed of 40 mph or so, the
adjustment is sufficient to prevent any low pressure associated damage.

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 11:43:20 -0700, "John Kunkel" >
wrote:

>Fairbanks kits are the same as Superior, they're in bed together. <snip>

OK, Superior I've seen out here. Could they be marketing different
names regionally?
>
>B&M didn't actually make "kits" for the iron Hydro, they built a unit manual
>controlled Hydro called the Hydro-Stik with the famous logo of a robot
>holding a shift lever. <snip>

That's the one, seen oft times in T-buckets with a '53-'55 Cadillac
transplanted into it.

>The missing #3 ball was the cause for no 2-3 upshift (you weren't alone in
>suggesting that) and the backflow through the missing check ball partially
>applied the rear band which accounts for the "bogging" feeling.
>The remainder of the OP's current late shift timing issues are related to
>throttle pressure adjustment and not the shift kit. The late 2-3 upshift and
>the early forced kickdown are solely the result of too much throttle
>pressure for the throttle opening; a simple cable/linkage adjustment should
>solve that problem. <snip>

So, it would seem, with a TV adjustment, he's home free.

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 11:50:58 -0700, "John Kunkel" >
wrote:

>This "desertbob" character is a poser who is posting from auto repair
>manuals- he doesn't have any hands on experience fixing cars.
>
>Duly noted, but even a blind squirrel occasionally finds a nut. <snip>

So he says. Charlie Nudo, aka "duty-honor-country," is the troll who
trailed me in here. And, FYI, I've rebuild two 727s myself. How many
has Nudo even touched? Zero.

The rear clutch check ball thing came to mind, because I had the same
problem with a Road Runner I got on the cheap with a "blown" trans.
What happened was that the check ball was just plain missing, and the
rear band was fried. Everything else, including all hard parts, were
in great shape, so it was an easy job. I used an ATP master kit on
that one, and was later told I'd screwed up by using their stuff,
although I sold the car and never got a comeback on the trans. One
shop owner told me that ATP seals weren't up to par, but yet others
say their stuff's perfectly reliable. I used some seal repair items
on a Ford C6 that held up for over 100K miles, so....

Any opinions on that?

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 11:56:12 -0700, "John Kunkel" >
wrote:

>
>"DeserTBoB" > wrote in message
.. .
>> On 26 Sep 2006 17:48:59 -0700, "cjboater" > wrote:
>>
>>> I'm going to try adjusting the tv cable a bit more tonight and see if
>>>the shift points get better. <snip>
>>
>> There's only one optimal position for the TV cable to be in...lever
>> fully actuated at full throttle.
>
>Absolutely wrong!!! <snip>

So the FSM is wrong, then.

"DeserTBoB" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 11:56:12 -0700, "John Kunkel" >
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"DeserTBoB" > wrote in message
. ..
>>> On 26 Sep 2006 17:48:59 -0700, "cjboater" > wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm going to try adjusting the tv cable a bit more tonight and see if
>>>>the shift points get better. <snip>
>>>
>>> There's only one optimal position for the TV cable to be in...lever
>>> fully actuated at full throttle.
>>
>>Absolutely wrong!!! <snip>
>
> So the FSM is wrong, then.

Please reference ANY Mopar shop manual that specifies the lever must be full
back at WOT, include year, page, paragraph.

What you will actually find is that EVERY FSM specifies the adjustment be
made with the carb/throttle body at warm curb idle and with the transmission
lever full FORWARD. When correctly adjusted at idle the position of the
transmission lever at WOT will automatically be correct due to the design of
the factory linkage/cable system.

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 14:11:54 -0700, "John Kunkel" >
wrote:

>
>"DeserTBoB" > wrote in message
.. .
>> On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 11:56:12 -0700, "John Kunkel" >
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"DeserTBoB" > wrote in message
...
>>>> On 26 Sep 2006 17:48:59 -0700, "cjboater" > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I'm going to try adjusting the tv cable a bit more tonight and see if
>>>>>the shift points get better. <snip>
>>>>
>>>> There's only one optimal position for the TV cable to be in...lever
>>>> fully actuated at full throttle.
>>>
>>>Absolutely wrong!!! <snip>
>>
>> So the FSM is wrong, then.
>
>Please reference ANY Mopar shop manual that specifies the lever must be full
>back at WOT, include year, page, paragraph.
>
>What you will actually find is that EVERY FSM specifies the adjustment be
>made with the carb/throttle body at warm curb idle and with the transmission
>lever full FORWARD. When correctly adjusted at idle the position of the
>transmission lever at WOT will automatically be correct due to the design of
>the factory linkage/cable system. <snip>

That's exactly what my FSM says for the overtravel rod system for '86,
and a recheck showed that this will also put the TV fully in at WOT,
at least on my application. I can shinny underneath and recheck it,
but that's how it worked out last time I set it.

Since you have a custom install I would look for a different throdle lever
(the one on the trans) I have seen them in different lengths depending on
application. Another thought Has it been converted to carb? You need the
correct mopar adapter lever for the carb. Front band & rear bands seldom
wear out on 727 So that wouldn't be a problem unless overtightened. The
quickest way to distroy a TF is to leave the throdle pressure linnkage
disconnected I had the MP deep pan on mine with street shift kit

> John,
>
> This "desertbob" character is a poser who is posting from auto repair
> manuals- he doesn't have any hands on experience fixing cars.
>
> Duly noted, but even a blind squirrel occasionally finds a nut.


John,

Check this out- DeserTroll is now trying to say a TH350 only came on a
Chevy- this goes far to show his total LACK of automotive knowledge- as
it was a common transmission on Buick, Olds, Pontiac as well, from the
1960's all the way into the 1980's

Here's his latest post:

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.c...de7085682b61bf


And here's the obvious info that totally DISPROVES what he's saying. I
must have seen 100's of TH350's in Buick-Olds-Pontiac cars. I parted
out many myself, and my Firebird still has the original TH350 it came
with in 1970.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/th350.htm

Engine Compatibility and Adaptability
GM
The front face TH350 is natively compatible with either the Chevrolet
90 degree "Small Block" & "Big Block" patterned engines,
including the V6, V8, I6 & Iron Duke I4. Another version, the Buick /
Oldsmobile / Pontiac (BOP) TH350 will be compatible with the Buick 90
degree V6 & V8 engines, and the Olds & Pontiac 90 degree V8. This
"BOP" version features a "valley" at the twelve o'clock
position of the block flange where the peak would be on the Chevy
(pictured) version.


THIS IS WHY YOU CAN'T BELIEVE ANYTHING DESERTBOB TELLS YOU- he's a
poser.

DeserTBoB wrote:
> POSER ALERT: , claims to have a Pontiac Firebird 455 HO with a "tunnel ram" manifold. It probably
> doesn't run.

You already saw pictures of the engine, with your picture on the
manifold- here it is again, you ricer.

http://i9.tinypic.com/3022e5i.jpg


Also, the Chevrolet THM350 does NOT fit the Pontiac
> block at all. B-O-P cars had their own THM375 made by the former
> Detroit Transmission Divison, NOT Chevrolet Division, with the B-O-P
> bell housing pattern.

WRONG- I still have the owner's manual for my car, it says right in it,
TH350

The TH375 was a TH350 with a LONG TAILSHAFT, used in full sized luxury
cars- you DUMB ASS.

Explain this:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/co...gmth350id.html

Bolt Pattern
The Turbo 350 case commonly comes with three different bolt patterns.
Some cases have a Chevy engine bolt pattern, some cases have the Buick,

Olds, Pontiac, and Caddy bolt pattern, and some have both. It is well
worth getting the dual pattern, or unicase, Turbo 350. If you ever
think you might do an engine swap, you won't have to worry about the
transmission. It will also help the resale of the transmission because
it will work with more engine combinations.

The Buick, Olds, Pontiac, and Caddy engine bolt pattern is easily
identified by the valley at the top and the Chevy pattern is peaked on
the top. The dual pattern transmission in the picture on the right has
both patterns. You can see the valley and peak. Each set of bolts
around the top is in a pair. The alignment pin and the lower bolt is
the same.

IT'S DAMN OBVIOUS- DESERTBOB NEVER OWNED A GM V-8 POWERED CAR- HE KNOWS
**** ABOUT THE MOST COMMON TRANSMISSION GM EVER MADE ALL THROUGH THE
1970'S !

duty-honor-country wrote:
> DeserTBoB wrote:
> > POSER ALERT: , claims to have a Pontiac Firebird 455 HO with a "tunnel ram" manifold. It probably
> > doesn't run.
>
> You already saw pictures of the engine, with your picture on the
> manifold- here it is again, you ricer.
>
> http://i9.tinypic.com/3022e5i.jpg
>
>
> Also, the Chevrolet THM350 does NOT fit the Pontiac
> > block at all. B-O-P cars had their own THM375 made by the former
> > Detroit Transmission Divison, NOT Chevrolet Division, with the B-O-P
> > bell housing pattern.
>
> WRONG- I still have the owner's manual for my car, it says right in it,
> TH350
>
> The TH375 was a TH350 with a LONG TAILSHAFT, used in full sized luxury
> cars- you DUMB ASS.
>
> Explain this:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/co...gmth350id.html
>

You accused Bob being obsessive and yet you take the time to Photoshop
his picture, print it out and put in on someones engine. You are the
psycho and this proves it.