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ALIGNMENT ?? - 2003 Impala 3.4V6
I recently upgraded to H-rated tires of OEM size for my Impala and had
4whl alignment done as a package at a local Town Fair. The improvement from S-rated to H-rated was noticeable, particularly in steering response. No more squeal in turns, and a firmer ride. Unfortunately, the car "seemed" to exhibit some pull to the left, which I brought the car back for the next week. My sales rep reviewed the alignment printout which showed everything to be pretty much within manufacturer's spec window, but proceeded to rack up my car for an adjustment. And actually, the conditions that would contribute to a left-pull: more positive camber on the left, less positive caster on the left, were not the case! Afterwards, I was handed a new print out, which showed my caster to be just outside the manufacturer's window, but all other measurements within spec. Caster for the '03 Impala should be +2.7 <> +3.7 deg, but mine was +2.5L/+2.6R. I asked how the caster got to be so out of spec and will it effect my driveablity, the sales guy said, the other adjustments affect caster, and, no, it shouldn't effect driveablity. Once back on the road, the left pull was gone, but now the car exhibits little or no "center" feel to it. Steering wheel return after a turn is not nearly as nimble, and I often must correct slightly one I'm on the road I turned on to. And even at highway speeds, I have to guide the car to keep it in the lane I'm in. If what the sales rep said is true, what other adjustments can have an effect on the Impala caster, which itself is not adjustable? And what should I have them do to get the caster closer to GM's +3.2 suggested spec? Thanks in advance, -ChrisCoaster |
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#2
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ChrisCoaster wrote:
> > I recently upgraded to H-rated tires of OEM size for my Impala and had > 4whl alignment done as a package at a local Town Fair. > > The improvement from S-rated to H-rated was noticeable, particularly in > steering response. No more squeal in turns, and a firmer ride. > Unfortunately, the car "seemed" to exhibit some pull to the left, which > I brought the car back for the next week. > > My sales rep reviewed the alignment printout which showed everything to > be pretty much within manufacturer's spec window, but proceeded to rack > up my car for an adjustment. And actually, the conditions that would > contribute to a left-pull: more positive camber on the left, less > positive caster on the left, were not the case! > > Afterwards, I was handed a new print out, which showed my caster to be > just outside the manufacturer's window, but all other measurements > within spec. Caster for the '03 Impala should be +2.7 <> +3.7 deg, but > mine was +2.5L/+2.6R. I asked how the caster got to be so out of spec > and will it effect my driveablity, the sales guy said, the other > adjustments affect caster, and, no, it shouldn't effect driveablity. > > Once back on the road, the left pull was gone, but now the car exhibits > little or no "center" feel to it. Steering wheel return after a turn > is not nearly as nimble, and I often must correct slightly one I'm on > the road I turned on to. And even at highway speeds, I have to guide > the car to keep it in the lane I'm in. > > If what the sales rep said is true, what other adjustments can have an > effect on the Impala caster, which itself is not adjustable? And what > should I have them do to get the caster closer to GM's +3.2 suggested > spec? > > Thanks in advance, > > -ChrisCoaster Sounds like castor or toe is out of specs. Have an alignment done by a reputable shop. BTW, what is a "sales rep"? Is he/she/it ASE suspension and steering certified? |
#3
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=AB=BB wrote: > > Sounds like castor or toe is out of specs. Have an alignment done > by a reputable shop. > BTW, what is a "sales rep"? Is he/she/it ASE suspension and steering > certified? ____________________ I know my caster is out of spec - it's right on the printout: Range +2.7 - +3.7 Actual +2.5. An Actual of +3.0 would be more acceptable, and would definitely help my tracking. What I'm asking is if, and which, adjustments, when made, can have an effect on the caster setting? Town Fair and GM both *say* caster is non-adjustable on these Impalas, but can changing the toe and/or camber affect it? -CC |
#4
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ChrisCoaster wrote:
> = > =AB=BB wrote: > = > > > > Sounds like castor or toe is out of specs. Have an alignment done > > by a reputable shop. > > BTW, what is a "sales rep"? Is he/she/it ASE suspension and steering= > > certified? > ____________________ > I know my caster is out of spec - it's right on the printout: Range > +2.7 - +3.7 Actual +2.5. An Actual of +3.0 would be more acceptable, > and would definitely help my tracking. > = > What I'm asking is if, and which, adjustments, when made, can have an > effect on the caster setting? Town Fair and GM both *say* caster is > non-adjustable on these Impalas, but can changing the toe and/or camber= > affect it? > = > -CC Changing the camb or toe should not affect the castor. It is non-adjustable (without cutting and grinding slots). =46rom your problem description, it sounds like it may be toed out too mu= ch. Did you buy it new? |
#5
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Actually, the fronts are closer to the "in" limit than to the "toe out"
limit. Positive values indicate toe-in, Negative= toe out, if I'm correct? I bought the car used from a dealer, and the alignment seemed fine until I had the tires replaced and alignment done a couple months ago. The salesman I referred to in my original post simply acts as liason between the customer and the installation / alignment techs. He and the alignment tech both went over my specs and stated that adjusting the toe and/or camber will have some effect on caster. I took them at face value and have been wandering across the countryside in my fine Buick Impala ever since.... Either way, I would like someone - the dealer, a specialty shop, or Town Fair, to figure out how to restore the correct amount of caster. I like a ride with a strong sense of center - being a bitch to park is no big deal, I'm not veering off into a tree or oncoming traffic at 60mph when parking, y'know? ; ) -CC |
#6
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ChrisCoaster wrote:
> > Actually, the fronts are closer to the "in" limit than to the "toe out" > limit. Positive values indicate toe-in, Negative= toe out, if I'm > correct? > > I bought the car used from a dealer, and the alignment seemed fine > until I had the tires replaced and alignment done a couple months ago. > The salesman I referred to in my original post simply acts as liason > between the customer and the installation / alignment techs. He and > the alignment tech both went over my specs and stated that adjusting > the toe and/or camber will have some effect on caster. I took them at > face value and have been wandering across the countryside in my fine > Buick Impala ever since.... > > Either way, I would like someone - the dealer, a specialty shop, or > Town Fair, to figure out how to restore the correct amount of caster. > I like a ride with a strong sense of center - being a bitch to park is > no big deal, I'm not veering off into a tree or oncoming traffic at > 60mph when parking, y'know? ; ) > > -CC Questions... When they checked the alignment, did they do it with you in the car? Did they do it with +1/2 tank of gas or with an empty tank? That right there could mean 1/2 to one degree (or more) towards negative. Lowering the rear of the car gives more + caster. So does raising the front. If toe is not zero when getting the readings, it will affect all the numbers. Wrong caster is often due to bent parts. Running over curbs tends to bend the lower parts backward reducing + caster. The strut towers can be slotted so that caster can be adjusted. |
#7
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-ahh lemme break i'down fo yah, brothahh.. : )
Questions... When they checked the alignment, did they do it with you in the car? -Sign on Town Fair Garage wall: CUSTOMERS NOT ALLOWED IN TECH BAY FOR INSURANCE REASONS (let alone in the front seat of a car being worked) Did they do it with +1/2 tank of gas or with an empty tank? I don't recall - but I think it was closer to 3/4 or full. That right there could mean 1/2 to one degree (or more) towards negative. Lowering the rear of the car gives more + caster. So does raising the front. If toe is not zero when getting the readings, it will affect all the numbers. Wrong caster is often due to bent parts. Running over curbs tends to bend the lower parts backward reducing + caster. -LOL! This car doesn't seem to show any hints of prior cop duty. It IS a base sedan you know. The strut towers can be slotted so that caster can be adjusted. -That's encouraging. It means that this car's feel can be adjusted to feel somewhat like my fiance's '05 Corolla and the loaner Malibu-Classic I drove on an unrelated issue, with spot-on steering return and still excellent parking manners. -CC |
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