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NetMax: From Standpipe discussion



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 3rd 04, 11:58 PM
John Lange
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Posts: n/a
Default NetMax: From Standpipe discussion

snip and snip again see bottom
Filtration would be by canister filter. Inside the tank, (before
anything is put in), place a UGF plate in the far-end, and connect a
horizontal run of pipe from the UGF plate to the wall-end. This plate
becomes a very wide filter strainer, not a UGF filter. It's location
makes it a continuously running gravel vacuum. It will be covered by
river stones (3/8" to 1" diameter). This type of an input will not clog
and is virtually maintenance-free (and you don't need to gravel vac
either). It is also unlikely that there will be much in the way of
aquascaping at the far-end, so a cleared area of river stones will fit
almost any bio-tope being planned. Stack a few low stones and/or low
driftwood in this area.

At the wall-end, install a 90 degree elbow and run a pipe up the middle
of the wall-end glass to a U fitting to run canister hose down inside the

This weekly backwashing of your filter and reversing flow direction
through your hoses will significantly increase the servicing interval
needed. With the right balance, your canister servicing interval may
only become an annual event.

Oh yeah, your filter return is at the wall-end, so you have nice
leisurely top-rear to front-bottom circulation, adaptable to almost any
bio-tope (you don't need high flow rates for their detritus pick-up power
as your sucking debris right off the bottom. Your slope from the far-end
to wall-end would rise (nothing dramatic, just enough for detritus to
roll downwards).
----------------------------------------
THIS INFO IS SO PERTINENT TO MY CURRENT PROJECT...
I am starting the planning stages for a 405g Plywood & Glass tank. 6' X 3' X
3'
I understand what you have here and am wondering about a later comment about
YOUR swimming pool filter. You have an 800g indoor pond. I was thinking
about the swimming pool filter for my project because it is basically a
sealed unit (canister) with little maintenance. Not sure about the capacity
needed for a 400g FW with local game fish, Bass, Muskie, Bluegill, etc.
(not to go into the game fish legality discussion)

What is your filter, what size and gph?

Never heard a swimming pool filter / pump run, are they noisy?

We are on city water with chlorine, NOT chloramines. Water changes... can
I do it like you discussed and just dump "Aqua Safe" or other chemical in to
treat the chlorine??? Prefilter the city water to remove the chlorine?

My stand will be 30" high with 24" inside height available. Will a swimming
pool filter fit in here?

In a plywood tank, what about a shower stall or garage floor drain built in
the bottom, or will compromising the structure of the bottom be a source of
failure?

plastic drain pan in the top of an open canopy, and pumped water up to
it, you could fill the canopy 'shelf' with a variety of terrestrial plants


Cool, this could be the return line from the filter, right? or is this tooo
much flow?

Thanks for ALL your help
JOhn


  #2  
Old January 4th 04, 02:50 PM
NetMax
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default NetMax: From Standpipe discussion


"John Lange" wrote in
message t...
snip and snip again see bottom
Filtration would be by canister filter. Inside the tank, (before
anything is put in), place a UGF plate in the far-end, and connect a
horizontal run of pipe from the UGF plate to the wall-end. This plate
becomes a very wide filter strainer, not a UGF filter. It's location
makes it a continuously running gravel vacuum. It will be covered by
river stones (3/8" to 1" diameter). This type of an input will not

clog
and is virtually maintenance-free (and you don't need to gravel vac
either). It is also unlikely that there will be much in the way of
aquascaping at the far-end, so a cleared area of river stones will fit
almost any bio-tope being planned. Stack a few low stones and/or low
driftwood in this area.

At the wall-end, install a 90 degree elbow and run a pipe up the middle
of the wall-end glass to a U fitting to run canister hose down inside

the

This weekly backwashing of your filter and reversing flow direction
through your hoses will significantly increase the servicing interval
needed. With the right balance, your canister servicing interval may
only become an annual event.

Oh yeah, your filter return is at the wall-end, so you have nice
leisurely top-rear to front-bottom circulation, adaptable to almost any
bio-tope (you don't need high flow rates for their detritus pick-up

power
as your sucking debris right off the bottom. Your slope from the

far-end
to wall-end would rise (nothing dramatic, just enough for detritus to
roll downwards).
----------------------------------------
THIS INFO IS SO PERTINENT TO MY CURRENT PROJECT...
I am starting the planning stages for a 405g Plywood & Glass tank. 6' X

3' X
3'
I understand what you have here and am wondering about a later comment

about
YOUR swimming pool filter. You have an 800g indoor pond. I was

thinking
about the swimming pool filter for my project because it is basically a
sealed unit (canister) with little maintenance. Not sure about the

capacity
needed for a 400g FW with local game fish, Bass, Muskie, Bluegill, etc.
(not to go into the game fish legality discussion)

What is your filter, what size and gph?


Hi John, not sure about the pool pump details. It's the most common
pump/filter set-up you see (around here) for above ground pools of about
22 to 26 feet diameter. The filter stands about 4' high. When I'm at
work I can look up more details, but I would start by visiting your local
pool store and see what is most commonly available, and their price
points. For a 400g tank, I'd look at the smallest pump/filter combos
(Wal-Mart?).

Never heard a swimming pool filter / pump run, are they noisy?


Yes, the motor/pump assembly is noisy. Locate this outdoors if possible,
or in another room. Making a small closed enclosure is not a good option
as they run very warm to start with, and overheat easily (although they
still run when too hot, they wear down more quickly).

OT: In one installation, the pipes were run so the water 'crashed' into a
sharp corner while intaking air at the same point. This oxygenated the
water. This technique might be of interest for you to research (although
a large enough plant tray area will also re-oxygenate the water).

We are on city water with chlorine, NOT chloramines. Water changes...

can
I do it like you discussed and just dump "Aqua Safe" or other chemical

in to
treat the chlorine??? Prefilter the city water to remove the chlorine?


You have 2 options, carbon or chemical. The backwash uses no new water,
but I need to fill the pond every 3 days (due to evaporation and
accumulated backwashes). Doing 100g fill-ups twice a week, I just
estimate the amount of water needed and put in AquaPlus. With tanks, you
can't let your level drop significantly, so I imagine that you will be
doing daily w/c while doing the backwash. A carbon filter would work
nicely. There are high-tech carbons on the market (ie:Centaur) and
zeolite mixes which are designed for chloramine or high ammonia
situations. If going with carbon filtration and you only have chlorine,
I'd start with garden-variety carbon. A single canister (1 or 2 cu.ft.)
would probably last you a year or more.

My stand will be 30" high with 24" inside height available. Will a

swimming
pool filter fit in here?


I haven't seen one that small.

In a plywood tank, what about a shower stall or garage floor drain

built in
the bottom, or will compromising the structure of the bottom be a

source of
failure?


Interesting question. Structurally, it could be a weak point, but
properly designed it should not be any more concern than anything else,
however - it's obtaining the correct fittings, making them non-toxic and
connecting everything without affecting structural integrity. If you are
using FibreGlas to coat the interior, then this is a good material to
seal (and make safe) toxic fittings.

Sourcing odd fittings can be done either by i) contacting the
manufacturer/suppliers (of plastic/nylon/stainless/brass/aluminum/steel
liquid-tight hose/bulkhead fittings), or ii) contacting an OEM
manufacturer of a part which uses similar fittings (anyone building large
plastic storage tanks in your neighborhood?), or iii) visiting industrial
supply houses, especially supplying farms. Most chemical companys would
have equipment which used fittings you could adapt, so if they couldn't
sell you a spare, perhaps they could give you the URL of the companys
which did. Start by checking out what the pool companys use ;~)

plastic drain pan in the top of an open canopy, and pumped water up

to
it, you could fill the canopy 'shelf' with a variety of terrestrial

plants

Cool, this could be the return line from the filter, right? or is this

tooo
much flow?


The standard pool pumps are too strong for this. The one I have is about
1/3 restricted, and it still pushes a 7' waterfall leading down to the
pond. It would blow your plant shelf across the room ;~) Also you need
strong circulation for wild game fish (I think), so a small diverter
valve on your return could drive accessories such as a plant tray, while
the main flow would keep the fish in motion. In your case, with the high
fish-loads you are considering, the surface area of the tank to
accomodate a plant tray, would IMO be insufficient (wild game fish eat a
lot of high protein foods). I'd build the scrubber (esentially what it
is) elsewhere. Visit a hydroponics supply house to see what they have.
Ask them about your drain fitting while you are there.

Thanks for ALL your help
JOhn


I hope I was of some help. I don't have a lot of experience with what
you are doing. Have fun with it.

NetMax


 




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