'02 300M overheating now

As i reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but now I
cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge goes up
into the red.

My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to quit,
but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling system. I
have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four trips of
20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating problem
reared its ugly head.

When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale), the
top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm. Doesn't
that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a suggestion
online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can cause the
same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How come
the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?

Perce

On 08/08/12 10:04 pm, I wrote:

> As Ii reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but now I
> cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge goes up
> into the red.
>
> My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to quit,
> but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling system. I
> have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
> overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four trips of
> 20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating problem
> reared its ugly head.
>
> When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale), the
> top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm. Doesn't
> that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a suggestion
> online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can cause the
> same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How come
> the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?

I did buy a new thermostat, gasket and hose, but decided to consult
first with my has-worked-in-an-auto-shop neighbor (the one who declined
to do the a/c job for me). He had me warm the engine up with the bleed
valve open (with a tube to a bucket) and the coolant-bottle cap off and
said, "Don't worry about the coolant that spews out: it's being forced
out by the air burps." More than a gallon of coolant later (which I had
to keep adding to maintain the correct level in the coolant tank) the
temperature still rises too high, and I have no heat in the cabin (no
a/c-related fault codes). He is now suggesting head-gasket failure, and
I do see steam coming from the exhaust, but I don't know whether the
amount is abnormal, as I don't usually stand behind my car and watch the
exhaust. I see no sign of water in the oil.

My neighbor is going to try to borrow a compression tester and also
plans to talk to his friend who now owns the auto shop where he (my
neighbor) used to work; he is by all accounts a Chrysler fanatic and may
have some useful insights.

Any words of wisdom from the assembled multitude here?

Perce

it is acting like your thermostat is stuck shut. try this first.....

let it cool down cold. Then with the coolant full, take the cap off and
watch it while someone starts it up. if you see bubbles, see if you can
find a parts stores that sells one time use "block testers" they stick down
inside the coolant and change colors if there is exhaust gases in your
coolant.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391378_0_0_

BUT....if you DON'T get any bubbles in the coolant when you start it up
cold, then drain it, put in the new thermostat. Then refill it with the
bleeder screw open and the hose connected to it. as soon as you get coolant
out of it, then close it and fill the coolant the rest of the way.





"Percival P. Cassidy" > wrote in message
...
> On 08/08/12 10:04 pm, I wrote:
>
>> As Ii reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but now I
>> cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge goes up
>> into the red.
>>
>> My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to quit,
>> but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling system. I
>> have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
>> overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four trips of
>> 20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating problem
>> reared its ugly head.
>>
>> When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale), the
>> top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm. Doesn't
>> that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a suggestion
>> online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can cause the
>> same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How come
>> the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?
>
> I did buy a new thermostat, gasket and hose, but decided to consult first
> with my has-worked-in-an-auto-shop neighbor (the one who declined to do
> the a/c job for me). He had me warm the engine up with the bleed valve
> open (with a tube to a bucket) and the coolant-bottle cap off and said,
> "Don't worry about the coolant that spews out: it's being forced out by
> the air burps." More than a gallon of coolant later (which I had to keep
> adding to maintain the correct level in the coolant tank) the temperature
> still rises too high, and I have no heat in the cabin (no a/c-related
> fault codes). He is now suggesting head-gasket failure, and I do see steam
> coming from the exhaust, but I don't know whether the amount is abnormal,
> as I don't usually stand behind my car and watch the exhaust. I see no
> sign of water in the oil.
>
> My neighbor is going to try to borrow a compression tester and also plans
> to talk to his friend who now owns the auto shop where he (my neighbor)
> used to work; he is by all accounts a Chrysler fanatic and may have some
> useful insights.
>
> Any words of wisdom from the assembled multitude here?
>
> Perce
>
>
>

My neighbor said that the sudden rush of coolant from the bottle showed
that the thermostat had opened -- but I wasn't sure that I believed him.

I haven't seen bubbles in the coolant: it stays clear and bubble-free
until it gets almost up to half-scale on the temp. gauge, at which point
the "burps" start.

Perce


On 08/09/12 09:31 pm, Rob wrote:
> it is acting like your thermostat is stuck shut. try this first.....
>
> let it cool down cold. Then with the coolant full, take the cap off and
> watch it while someone starts it up. if you see bubbles, see if you can
> find a parts stores that sells one time use "block testers" they stick down
> inside the coolant and change colors if there is exhaust gases in your
> coolant.
> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391378_0_0_
>
> BUT....if you DON'T get any bubbles in the coolant when you start it up
> cold, then drain it, put in the new thermostat. Then refill it with the
> bleeder screw open and the hose connected to it. as soon as you get coolant
> out of it, then close it and fill the coolant the rest of the way.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Percival P. > wrote in message
> ...
>> On 08/08/12 10:04 pm, I wrote:
>>
>>> As Ii reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but now I
>>> cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge goes up
>>> into the red.
>>>
>>> My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to quit,
>>> but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling system. I
>>> have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
>>> overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four trips of
>>> 20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating problem
>>> reared its ugly head.
>>>
>>> When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale), the
>>> top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm. Doesn't
>>> that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a suggestion
>>> online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can cause the
>>> same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How come
>>> the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?
>>
>> I did buy a new thermostat, gasket and hose, but decided to consult first
>> with my has-worked-in-an-auto-shop neighbor (the one who declined to do
>> the a/c job for me). He had me warm the engine up with the bleed valve
>> open (with a tube to a bucket) and the coolant-bottle cap off and said,
>> "Don't worry about the coolant that spews out: it's being forced out by
>> the air burps." More than a gallon of coolant later (which I had to keep
>> adding to maintain the correct level in the coolant tank) the temperature
>> still rises too high, and I have no heat in the cabin (no a/c-related
>> fault codes). He is now suggesting head-gasket failure, and I do see steam
>> coming from the exhaust, but I don't know whether the amount is abnormal,
>> as I don't usually stand behind my car and watch the exhaust. I see no
>> sign of water in the oil.
>>
>> My neighbor is going to try to borrow a compression tester and also plans
>> to talk to his friend who now owns the auto shop where he (my neighbor)
>> used to work; he is by all accounts a Chrysler fanatic and may have some
>> useful insights.
>>
>> Any words of wisdom from the assembled multitude here?
>>
>> Perce
>>
>>
>>
>
>

does it overheat just idling in the garage?

or only driving down the road?


"Percival P. Cassidy" > wrote in message
...
> My neighbor said that the sudden rush of coolant from the bottle showed
> that the thermostat had opened -- but I wasn't sure that I believed him.
>
> I haven't seen bubbles in the coolant: it stays clear and bubble-free
> until it gets almost up to half-scale on the temp. gauge, at which point
> the "burps" start.
>
> Perce
>
>
> On 08/09/12 09:31 pm, Rob wrote:
>> it is acting like your thermostat is stuck shut. try this first.....
>>
>> let it cool down cold. Then with the coolant full, take the cap off and
>> watch it while someone starts it up. if you see bubbles, see if you can
>> find a parts stores that sells one time use "block testers" they stick
>> down
>> inside the coolant and change colors if there is exhaust gases in your
>> coolant.
>> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391378_0_0_
>>
>> BUT....if you DON'T get any bubbles in the coolant when you start it up
>> cold, then drain it, put in the new thermostat. Then refill it with the
>> bleeder screw open and the hose connected to it. as soon as you get
>> coolant
>> out of it, then close it and fill the coolant the rest of the way.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Percival P. > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> On 08/08/12 10:04 pm, I wrote:
>>>
>>>> As Ii reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but now I
>>>> cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge goes up
>>>> into the red.
>>>>
>>>> My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to
>>>> quit,
>>>> but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling system.
>>>> I
>>>> have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
>>>> overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four trips of
>>>> 20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating problem
>>>> reared its ugly head.
>>>>
>>>> When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale), the
>>>> top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm.
>>>> Doesn't
>>>> that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a suggestion
>>>> online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can cause
>>>> the
>>>> same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How come
>>>> the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?
>>>
>>> I did buy a new thermostat, gasket and hose, but decided to consult
>>> first
>>> with my has-worked-in-an-auto-shop neighbor (the one who declined to do
>>> the a/c job for me). He had me warm the engine up with the bleed valve
>>> open (with a tube to a bucket) and the coolant-bottle cap off and said,
>>> "Don't worry about the coolant that spews out: it's being forced out by
>>> the air burps." More than a gallon of coolant later (which I had to keep
>>> adding to maintain the correct level in the coolant tank) the
>>> temperature
>>> still rises too high, and I have no heat in the cabin (no a/c-related
>>> fault codes). He is now suggesting head-gasket failure, and I do see
>>> steam
>>> coming from the exhaust, but I don't know whether the amount is
>>> abnormal,
>>> as I don't usually stand behind my car and watch the exhaust. I see no
>>> sign of water in the oil.
>>>
>>> My neighbor is going to try to borrow a compression tester and also
>>> plans
>>> to talk to his friend who now owns the auto shop where he (my neighbor)
>>> used to work; he is by all accounts a Chrysler fanatic and may have some
>>> useful insights.
>>>
>>> Any words of wisdom from the assembled multitude here?
>>>
>>> Perce
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>

I haven't left it *merely* idling in the garage: I've sometimes held the
gas pedal down a little to get it to warm up faster after following the
bleeding procedure -- to see if the temp. still goes too high, and it does.

I've driven it slowly (25mph max., probably) around our subdivision --
difficult to say how far -- and the temp. gauge has been in the red by
the time I got back home.

Perce


On 08/10/12 12:13 am, Rob wrote:
> does it overheat just idling in the garage?
>
> or only driving down the road?
>
>
> "Percival P. > wrote in message
> ...
>> My neighbor said that the sudden rush of coolant from the bottle showed
>> that the thermostat had opened -- but I wasn't sure that I believed him.
>>
>> I haven't seen bubbles in the coolant: it stays clear and bubble-free
>> until it gets almost up to half-scale on the temp. gauge, at which point
>> the "burps" start.
>>
>> Perce
>>
>>
>> On 08/09/12 09:31 pm, Rob wrote:
>>> it is acting like your thermostat is stuck shut. try this first.....
>>>
>>> let it cool down cold. Then with the coolant full, take the cap off and
>>> watch it while someone starts it up. if you see bubbles, see if you can
>>> find a parts stores that sells one time use "block testers" they stick
>>> down
>>> inside the coolant and change colors if there is exhaust gases in your
>>> coolant.
>>> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391378_0_0_
>>>
>>> BUT....if you DON'T get any bubbles in the coolant when you start it up
>>> cold, then drain it, put in the new thermostat. Then refill it with the
>>> bleeder screw open and the hose connected to it. as soon as you get
>>> coolant
>>> out of it, then close it and fill the coolant the rest of the way.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "Percival P. > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> On 08/08/12 10:04 pm, I wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> As I reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but now I
>>>>> cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge goes up
>>>>> into the red.
>>>>>
>>>>> My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to
>>>>> quit,
>>>>> but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling system.
>>>>> I
>>>>> have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
>>>>> overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four trips of
>>>>> 20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating problem
>>>>> reared its ugly head.
>>>>>
>>>>> When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale), the
>>>>> top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm.
>>>>> Doesn't
>>>>> that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a suggestion
>>>>> online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can cause
>>>>> the
>>>>> same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How come
>>>>> the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?
>>>>
>>>> I did buy a new thermostat, gasket and hose, but decided to consult
>>>> first
>>>> with my has-worked-in-an-auto-shop neighbor (the one who declined to do
>>>> the a/c job for me). He had me warm the engine up with the bleed valve
>>>> open (with a tube to a bucket) and the coolant-bottle cap off and said,
>>>> "Don't worry about the coolant that spews out: it's being forced out by
>>>> the air burps." More than a gallon of coolant later (which I had to keep
>>>> adding to maintain the correct level in the coolant tank) the
>>>> temperature
>>>> still rises too high, and I have no heat in the cabin (no a/c-related
>>>> fault codes). He is now suggesting head-gasket failure, and I do see
>>>> steam
>>>> coming from the exhaust, but I don't know whether the amount is
>>>> abnormal,
>>>> as I don't usually stand behind my car and watch the exhaust. I see no
>>>> sign of water in the oil.
>>>>
>>>> My neighbor is going to try to borrow a compression tester and also
>>>> plans
>>>> to talk to his friend who now owns the auto shop where he (my neighbor)
>>>> used to work; he is by all accounts a Chrysler fanatic and may have some
>>>> useful insights.
>>>>
>>>> Any words of wisdom from the assembled multitude here?
>>>>
>>>> Perce
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>

My neighbor came back after talking to his friend the Chrysler fan and
new owner of the auto shop. He says "Definitely not the thermostat:
these things are pain in the neck to bleed, and you just have to keep at
it. But it could be that the vent hole in the thermostat housing is
blocked." But if I have to remove the thermostat housing to check
whether that hole is blocked, I might as well replace the thermostat anyway.

Perce

On 08/10/12 12:13 am, Rob wrote:
> does it overheat just idling in the garage?
>
> or only driving down the road?
>
>
> "Percival P. > wrote in message
> ...
>> My neighbor said that the sudden rush of coolant from the bottle showed
>> that the thermostat had opened -- but I wasn't sure that I believed him.
>>
>> I haven't seen bubbles in the coolant: it stays clear and bubble-free
>> until it gets almost up to half-scale on the temp. gauge, at which point
>> the "burps" start.
>>
>> Perce
>>
>>
>> On 08/09/12 09:31 pm, Rob wrote:
>>> it is acting like your thermostat is stuck shut. try this first.....
>>>
>>> let it cool down cold. Then with the coolant full, take the cap off and
>>> watch it while someone starts it up. if you see bubbles, see if you can
>>> find a parts stores that sells one time use "block testers" they stick
>>> down
>>> inside the coolant and change colors if there is exhaust gases in your
>>> coolant.
>>> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391378_0_0_
>>>
>>> BUT....if you DON'T get any bubbles in the coolant when you start it up
>>> cold, then drain it, put in the new thermostat. Then refill it with the
>>> bleeder screw open and the hose connected to it. as soon as you get
>>> coolant
>>> out of it, then close it and fill the coolant the rest of the way.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "Percival P. > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> On 08/08/12 10:04 pm, I wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> As Ii reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but now I
>>>>> cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge goes up
>>>>> into the red.
>>>>>
>>>>> My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to
>>>>> quit,
>>>>> but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling system.
>>>>> I
>>>>> have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
>>>>> overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four trips of
>>>>> 20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating problem
>>>>> reared its ugly head.
>>>>>
>>>>> When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale), the
>>>>> top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm.
>>>>> Doesn't
>>>>> that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a suggestion
>>>>> online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can cause
>>>>> the
>>>>> same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How come
>>>>> the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?
>>>>
>>>> I did buy a new thermostat, gasket and hose, but decided to consult
>>>> first
>>>> with my has-worked-in-an-auto-shop neighbor (the one who declined to do
>>>> the a/c job for me). He had me warm the engine up with the bleed valve
>>>> open (with a tube to a bucket) and the coolant-bottle cap off and said,
>>>> "Don't worry about the coolant that spews out: it's being forced out by
>>>> the air burps." More than a gallon of coolant later (which I had to keep
>>>> adding to maintain the correct level in the coolant tank) the
>>>> temperature
>>>> still rises too high, and I have no heat in the cabin (no a/c-related
>>>> fault codes). He is now suggesting head-gasket failure, and I do see
>>>> steam
>>>> coming from the exhaust, but I don't know whether the amount is
>>>> abnormal,
>>>> as I don't usually stand behind my car and watch the exhaust. I see no
>>>> sign of water in the oil.
>>>>
>>>> My neighbor is going to try to borrow a compression tester and also
>>>> plans
>>>> to talk to his friend who now owns the auto shop where he (my neighbor)
>>>> used to work; he is by all accounts a Chrysler fanatic and may have some
>>>> useful insights.
>>>>
>>>> Any words of wisdom from the assembled multitude here?

And my neighbor said that his friend the Chrysler fan and new owner of
the auto shop told him that he had sometimes had to drill extra holes in
the body (the flange, I assume) of the thermostat to deal with the
airlock problem. Sounds flaky to me.

Perce

On 08/10/12 03:00 pm, I wrote:

> My neighbor came back after talking to his friend the Chrysler fan and
> new owner of the auto shop. He says "Definitely not the thermostat:
> these things are pain in the neck to bleed, and you just have to keep at
> it. But it could be that the vent hole in the thermostat housing is
> blocked." But if I have to remove the thermostat housing to check
> whether that hole is blocked, I might as well replace the thermostat
> anyway.
>
> Perce
>
> On 08/10/12 12:13 am, Rob wrote:
>> does it overheat just idling in the garage?
>>
>> or only driving down the road?
>>
>>
>> "Percival P. > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> My neighbor said that the sudden rush of coolant from the bottle showed
>>> that the thermostat had opened -- but I wasn't sure that I believed him.
>>>
>>> I haven't seen bubbles in the coolant: it stays clear and bubble-free
>>> until it gets almost up to half-scale on the temp. gauge, at which point
>>> the "burps" start.
>>>
>>> Perce
>>>
>>>
>>> On 08/09/12 09:31 pm, Rob wrote:
>>>> it is acting like your thermostat is stuck shut. try this first.....
>>>>
>>>> let it cool down cold. Then with the coolant full, take the cap off and
>>>> watch it while someone starts it up. if you see bubbles, see if you can
>>>> find a parts stores that sells one time use "block testers" they stick
>>>> down
>>>> inside the coolant and change colors if there is exhaust gases in your
>>>> coolant.
>>>> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391378_0_0_
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> BUT....if you DON'T get any bubbles in the coolant when you start it up
>>>> cold, then drain it, put in the new thermostat. Then refill it with the
>>>> bleeder screw open and the hose connected to it. as soon as you get
>>>> coolant
>>>> out of it, then close it and fill the coolant the rest of the way.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Percival P. > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>> On 08/08/12 10:04 pm, I wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> As Ii reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but
>>>>>> now I
>>>>>> cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge
>>>>>> goes up
>>>>>> into the red.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to
>>>>>> quit,
>>>>>> but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling
>>>>>> system.
>>>>>> I
>>>>>> have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
>>>>>> overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four
>>>>>> trips of
>>>>>> 20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating
>>>>>> problem
>>>>>> reared its ugly head.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale), the
>>>>>> top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm.
>>>>>> Doesn't
>>>>>> that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a suggestion
>>>>>> online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can cause
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How come
>>>>>> the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?
>>>>>
>>>>> I did buy a new thermostat, gasket and hose, but decided to consult
>>>>> first
>>>>> with my has-worked-in-an-auto-shop neighbor (the one who declined
>>>>> to do
>>>>> the a/c job for me). He had me warm the engine up with the bleed valve
>>>>> open (with a tube to a bucket) and the coolant-bottle cap off and
>>>>> said,
>>>>> "Don't worry about the coolant that spews out: it's being forced
>>>>> out by
>>>>> the air burps." More than a gallon of coolant later (which I had to
>>>>> keep
>>>>> adding to maintain the correct level in the coolant tank) the
>>>>> temperature
>>>>> still rises too high, and I have no heat in the cabin (no a/c-related
>>>>> fault codes). He is now suggesting head-gasket failure, and I do see
>>>>> steam
>>>>> coming from the exhaust, but I don't know whether the amount is
>>>>> abnormal,
>>>>> as I don't usually stand behind my car and watch the exhaust. I see no
>>>>> sign of water in the oil.
>>>>>
>>>>> My neighbor is going to try to borrow a compression tester and also
>>>>> plans
>>>>> to talk to his friend who now owns the auto shop where he (my
>>>>> neighbor)
>>>>> used to work; he is by all accounts a Chrysler fanatic and may have
>>>>> some
>>>>> useful insights.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any words of wisdom from the assembled multitude here?

this is the 3.5L just like mine. only difference was mine was first gen.


never had any issues with the bleeding. filled it until coolant ran out that
hose, with a small amount of coolant in the catch bucket to cover the end of
the hose so it didn't suck any air in that way, once I got coolant out that
hose, then fill the coolant tank the rest of the way to the full point.

if its overheating that fast, the upper hose is getting hot, and the lower
one is not, and you are POSITIVE the thermostat is ok, then start looking at
the water pump.

Also pull your dipstick and see what color your oil is.
..
"Percival P. Cassidy" > wrote in message
...
> And my neighbor said that his friend the Chrysler fan and new owner of the
> auto shop told him that he had sometimes had to drill extra holes in the
> body (the flange, I assume) of the thermostat to deal with the airlock
> problem. Sounds flaky to me.
>
> Perce
>
> On 08/10/12 03:00 pm, I wrote:
>
>> My neighbor came back after talking to his friend the Chrysler fan and
>> new owner of the auto shop. He says "Definitely not the thermostat:
>> these things are pain in the neck to bleed, and you just have to keep at
>> it. But it could be that the vent hole in the thermostat housing is
>> blocked." But if I have to remove the thermostat housing to check
>> whether that hole is blocked, I might as well replace the thermostat
>> anyway.
>>
>> Perce
>>
>> On 08/10/12 12:13 am, Rob wrote:
>>> does it overheat just idling in the garage?
>>>
>>> or only driving down the road?
>>>
>>>
>>> "Percival P. > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> My neighbor said that the sudden rush of coolant from the bottle showed
>>>> that the thermostat had opened -- but I wasn't sure that I believed
>>>> him.
>>>>
>>>> I haven't seen bubbles in the coolant: it stays clear and bubble-free
>>>> until it gets almost up to half-scale on the temp. gauge, at which
>>>> point
>>>> the "burps" start.
>>>>
>>>> Perce
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 08/09/12 09:31 pm, Rob wrote:
>>>>> it is acting like your thermostat is stuck shut. try this first.....
>>>>>
>>>>> let it cool down cold. Then with the coolant full, take the cap off
>>>>> and
>>>>> watch it while someone starts it up. if you see bubbles, see if you
>>>>> can
>>>>> find a parts stores that sells one time use "block testers" they stick
>>>>> down
>>>>> inside the coolant and change colors if there is exhaust gases in your
>>>>> coolant.
>>>>> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391378_0_0_
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> BUT....if you DON'T get any bubbles in the coolant when you start it
>>>>> up
>>>>> cold, then drain it, put in the new thermostat. Then refill it with
>>>>> the
>>>>> bleeder screw open and the hose connected to it. as soon as you get
>>>>> coolant
>>>>> out of it, then close it and fill the coolant the rest of the way.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Percival P. > wrote in message
>>>>> ...
>>>>>> On 08/08/12 10:04 pm, I wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> As Ii reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but
>>>>>>> now I
>>>>>>> cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge
>>>>>>> goes up
>>>>>>> into the red.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to
>>>>>>> quit,
>>>>>>> but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling
>>>>>>> system.
>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>> have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
>>>>>>> overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four
>>>>>>> trips of
>>>>>>> 20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating
>>>>>>> problem
>>>>>>> reared its ugly head.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale),
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm.
>>>>>>> Doesn't
>>>>>>> that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a suggestion
>>>>>>> online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can cause
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How
>>>>>>> come
>>>>>>> the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I did buy a new thermostat, gasket and hose, but decided to consult
>>>>>> first
>>>>>> with my has-worked-in-an-auto-shop neighbor (the one who declined
>>>>>> to do
>>>>>> the a/c job for me). He had me warm the engine up with the bleed
>>>>>> valve
>>>>>> open (with a tube to a bucket) and the coolant-bottle cap off and
>>>>>> said,
>>>>>> "Don't worry about the coolant that spews out: it's being forced
>>>>>> out by
>>>>>> the air burps." More than a gallon of coolant later (which I had to
>>>>>> keep
>>>>>> adding to maintain the correct level in the coolant tank) the
>>>>>> temperature
>>>>>> still rises too high, and I have no heat in the cabin (no a/c-related
>>>>>> fault codes). He is now suggesting head-gasket failure, and I do see
>>>>>> steam
>>>>>> coming from the exhaust, but I don't know whether the amount is
>>>>>> abnormal,
>>>>>> as I don't usually stand behind my car and watch the exhaust. I see
>>>>>> no
>>>>>> sign of water in the oil.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My neighbor is going to try to borrow a compression tester and also
>>>>>> plans
>>>>>> to talk to his friend who now owns the auto shop where he (my
>>>>>> neighbor)
>>>>>> used to work; he is by all accounts a Chrysler fanatic and may have
>>>>>> some
>>>>>> useful insights.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any words of wisdom from the assembled multitude here?
>

well wait...........

does yours look like this?
http://tinyurl.com/8lz8sk2

if it does then your bleed valve is different than I thought it
was....yours is probably behind the first couple intake runners.







"Rob" > wrote in message
ng.com...
> this is the 3.5L just like mine. only difference was mine was first gen.
>
>
> never had any issues with the bleeding. filled it until coolant ran out
> that hose, with a small amount of coolant in the catch bucket to cover the
> end of the hose so it didn't suck any air in that way, once I got coolant
> out that hose, then fill the coolant tank the rest of the way to the full
> point.
>
> if its overheating that fast, the upper hose is getting hot, and the lower
> one is not, and you are POSITIVE the thermostat is ok, then start looking
> at the water pump.
>
> Also pull your dipstick and see what color your oil is.
> .
> "Percival P. Cassidy" > wrote in message
> ...
>> And my neighbor said that his friend the Chrysler fan and new owner of
>> the auto shop told him that he had sometimes had to drill extra holes in
>> the body (the flange, I assume) of the thermostat to deal with the
>> airlock problem. Sounds flaky to me.
>>
>> Perce
>>
>> On 08/10/12 03:00 pm, I wrote:
>>
>>> My neighbor came back after talking to his friend the Chrysler fan and
>>> new owner of the auto shop. He says "Definitely not the thermostat:
>>> these things are pain in the neck to bleed, and you just have to keep at
>>> it. But it could be that the vent hole in the thermostat housing is
>>> blocked." But if I have to remove the thermostat housing to check
>>> whether that hole is blocked, I might as well replace the thermostat
>>> anyway.
>>>
>>> Perce
>>>
>>> On 08/10/12 12:13 am, Rob wrote:
>>>> does it overheat just idling in the garage?
>>>>
>>>> or only driving down the road?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Percival P. > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>> My neighbor said that the sudden rush of coolant from the bottle
>>>>> showed
>>>>> that the thermostat had opened -- but I wasn't sure that I believed
>>>>> him.
>>>>>
>>>>> I haven't seen bubbles in the coolant: it stays clear and bubble-free
>>>>> until it gets almost up to half-scale on the temp. gauge, at which
>>>>> point
>>>>> the "burps" start.
>>>>>
>>>>> Perce
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 08/09/12 09:31 pm, Rob wrote:
>>>>>> it is acting like your thermostat is stuck shut. try this first.....
>>>>>>
>>>>>> let it cool down cold. Then with the coolant full, take the cap off
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> watch it while someone starts it up. if you see bubbles, see if you
>>>>>> can
>>>>>> find a parts stores that sells one time use "block testers" they
>>>>>> stick
>>>>>> down
>>>>>> inside the coolant and change colors if there is exhaust gases in
>>>>>> your
>>>>>> coolant.
>>>>>> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391378_0_0_
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> BUT....if you DON'T get any bubbles in the coolant when you start it
>>>>>> up
>>>>>> cold, then drain it, put in the new thermostat. Then refill it with
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> bleeder screw open and the hose connected to it. as soon as you get
>>>>>> coolant
>>>>>> out of it, then close it and fill the coolant the rest of the way.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Percival P. > wrote in message
>>>>>> ...
>>>>>>> On 08/08/12 10:04 pm, I wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> As Ii reported earlier, I completed the overhaul of the a/c, but
>>>>>>>> now I
>>>>>>>> cannot drive more than a couple of miles before the temp. gauge
>>>>>>>> goes up
>>>>>>>> into the red.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> My first thought was that the thermostat had chosen this moment to
>>>>>>>> quit,
>>>>>>>> but then I realized that I had overlooked bleeding the cooling
>>>>>>>> system.
>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>> have now followed the instructions for bleeding the system, but the
>>>>>>>> overheating problem is still there. Moreover, we had made four
>>>>>>>> trips of
>>>>>>>> 20 miles or so after fixing the a/c and before the overheating
>>>>>>>> problem
>>>>>>>> reared its ugly head.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> When the temp. gauge shows approx. the normal temp. (half scale),
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> top rad. hose is hot while the lower hose is only slightly warm.
>>>>>>>> Doesn't
>>>>>>>> that indicate a thermostat problem? -- although I found a
>>>>>>>> suggestion
>>>>>>>> online that due to this vehicle's design air in the system can
>>>>>>>> cause
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> same problem -- but even after those runs without a problem? How
>>>>>>>> come
>>>>>>>> the problem didn't show up then if it was due to air in the system?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I did buy a new thermostat, gasket and hose, but decided to consult
>>>>>>> first
>>>>>>> with my has-worked-in-an-auto-shop neighbor (the one who declined
>>>>>>> to do
>>>>>>> the a/c job for me). He had me warm the engine up with the bleed
>>>>>>> valve
>>>>>>> open (with a tube to a bucket) and the coolant-bottle cap off and
>>>>>>> said,
>>>>>>> "Don't worry about the coolant that spews out: it's being forced
>>>>>>> out by
>>>>>>> the air burps." More than a gallon of coolant later (which I had to
>>>>>>> keep
>>>>>>> adding to maintain the correct level in the coolant tank) the
>>>>>>> temperature
>>>>>>> still rises too high, and I have no heat in the cabin (no
>>>>>>> a/c-related
>>>>>>> fault codes). He is now suggesting head-gasket failure, and I do see
>>>>>>> steam
>>>>>>> coming from the exhaust, but I don't know whether the amount is
>>>>>>> abnormal,
>>>>>>> as I don't usually stand behind my car and watch the exhaust. I see
>>>>>>> no
>>>>>>> sign of water in the oil.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> My neighbor is going to try to borrow a compression tester and also
>>>>>>> plans
>>>>>>> to talk to his friend who now owns the auto shop where he (my
>>>>>>> neighbor)
>>>>>>> used to work; he is by all accounts a Chrysler fanatic and may have
>>>>>>> some
>>>>>>> useful insights.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any words of wisdom from the assembled multitude here?
>>
>
>