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#18
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There seems to be a difference of opinion concerning the transmission fluid
here. The service manual - based upon my driving habits - claims no change is necessary. The dealer claims - after checking the fluid - no change is necessary. I can understand the position one might take if they have changed fluid over the years with no incidence of trans failure. However, that fact alone - particularly in view of recommendation from the manufacture NOT to change - doesn't serve as proof that changing fluid prevents failure. The same results may have occurred without the changes. On the other hand, it may be like chicken soup as a remedy for the common; it can't hurt. That being the case... Q3) How do I get ALL the fluid out of the system if I drain it myself, check the magnet, and replace the filter? Q4) Do I need any "special" tools for any part of the job? (I don't think I did for the '95 Concorde I had) Q5) How much would be left in the system if I simply dropped the pan and drained? (Assuming the pan is the only thing I could drop reasonably) "Bob Shuman" > wrote in message ... >I have 4 of these same/very similar Chrysler electronic transmissions in a > 1991 Mitsubishi 300GT (130K miles) 1996 Eagle Vision (75K miles) , 1999 > T&C > Minivan (64K miles), and 2001 Dodge Intrepid (40K miles). I have dropped > the pans and changed all these vehicles transmission fluid (use the > correct > ATF+3/4 fluid) and filter on 30-36K mile intervals and all are still > performing just like when they were new. I am still amazed at the shift > quality in the 14.5 year old 3000GT every time I drive it! I know that > dropping the pan does not get all the fluid, but believe that this > approach > is much better than the "power flush" recommended at the dealer. I > personally have seen the gunk in the trans pan and the filings on the > magnet > and know these will not come out using the power flush method. I also > believe in replacing the filter since it can only clog and restrict fluid > pressure over time. > > With regard to the speed sensors, I doubt both were actually defective. > From what you had described, I would have guessed the output sensor was > bad. > I've replaced three of these over the years on the vehicles listed above > and > previous Chryslers as well. About two years back the part cost me about > $25 > or so dollars at the local dealer. Access was a breeze if you can get > under > the vehicle and it took about 10 minutes to remove the electrical > connector > , unscrew the part using a simple wrench and then screw in the replacement > and re-connect the connector. I personally do not see the value in the > price you paid, but then again, you might not have the tools or the > inclination so $200 to fix it may well be worth it to you. > > Bob > > "Bill Putney" > wrote in message > ... >> maxpower wrote: >> >> > "John Gregory" > wrote in message >> > ... >> > >> >>Welp... here's the outcome; $205.00! Replaced both sensors and billed >> >>me >> > >> > for >> > >> >>2 hours labor. Told me there was no need to worry about the >> >>transmission >> >>fluid; new, improved and designed to withstand the temperatures of >> >>hell. >> >>They also did a safety bulletin repair for two seat bolts so they got > paid >> >>by Chrysler for that as well. >> >> >> >>Did I get rooked? >> >> >> >> > Yup a little steep with the labor >> >> Yeah - I'd like to get paid for 2 hours for 30 minutes work. Where do I >> sign up! I'd at least tell them to knock it back to book rate - and ask >> them to explain why they take that long to do a 30 minute job. >> >> You really should change the fluid and filter regardless of what they >> say. Every 80k miles would be reasonable. DIY for cost of fluid and >> filter and 2 hours time, and get a thorough changeout of fluid in the >> bargain - not less than half from a pan drop. >> >> Bill Putney >> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my >> adddress with the letter 'x') > > |
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