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#11
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ed wrote: > Dumb question. Could the water pump be shot? *Could* be. We had a car in a few weeks ago that had only one impeller left on it. (If I remember right, it should've had six!!) In this case, though, it's probably the thermostat. There are a lot of CHEAP thermostats on the market. |
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#12
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I was waiting to reply because it seemed like it had resolved itself and I
wasn't going to have to do anything but..... The car has been driven daily since my first post and didn't heat up again until last night. It did almost the same thing as before. It finally got to a point when it was really hot and the thermostat decided to open and the engine temp dropped to normal in a matter of seconds. I already have a spare thermostat and gasket so I am going to change it out and then I'll bleed the system as Daniel suggested. Though I don't want to drill a hole in the flange for fear of really messing something up ;o) When I installed the first thermostat I did leave the cap off and let it warm up like Lawrence had suggested. It did start to spill out so I thought I was ok but maybe I didn't let it go long enough. In the Hanes book it says to drain the entire system and reuse the coolant if it is fairly new but doesn't mention anything about bleeding it. There is a hex head plug at the top of the water box like Daniel said there would be but the book didn't mention it at all. A friend is bringing me some larger hex wrenches later today since I don't have any big enough. Hopefully this will fix it for good. Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I'll be posting another question about my truck so stay tuned! "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message .umich.edu... > On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Helvis wrote: > >> I have a 94 Acclaim that wouldn't hardly warm up. A friend said I >> needed a thermostat, so I replaced it. I am pretty sure that I put it >> in the correct way. I put it in the same way the other was in. >> Anyway, since then it has had a couple of intermittent periods of >> overheating. The following day we took it out and it got really hot so I >> pulled over and opened the hood. The engine was really hot but the >> radiator >> and upper hose felt cold. > > Sounds as if you failed to bleed the air out of the cooling system after > replacing the thermostat. That's what the screw-in fitting atop the water > box (where the thermostat goes) is for. > >> I opened the radiator cap and some coolant shot out. > > NEVER do this; you can be very badly burned. > > It's good to drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange *just* outboard of > the valve poppet, and when you install the thermostat put this hole at the > 12:00 (top) position; this helps move air forward and evacuate it. But for > now, you need to bleed the system. The screw plug is often frozen in > place, so a decent alternative procedure is to put the car with the nose > on as sharp an upward angle as possible, loosen the radiator cap and run > the engine at a fast idle until it reaches full operating temperature and > for about 10 minutes thereafter. > > The other possibility is that your engine requires a head gasket. These > engines aren't as prone to head gasket failures as the early 2.0/2.4, but > they do tend to need a gasket if they begin heating up like this. |
#13
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On Thu, 24 Feb 2005, Helvis wrote:
> In the Hanes book it says to drain the entire system and reuse the coolant > if it is fairly new but doesn't mention anything about bleeding it. There > is a hex head plug at the top of the water box like Daniel said there would > be but the book didn't mention it at all. This is just one more example of why you should not rely on Haynes' crappy books. Full instructions for using a Haynes manual are at: http://u225.torque.net/haynes_instructions.html You should really, REALLY get the factory manual if you plan on working on your own car. DS |
#14
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"Helvis" > wrote in message ... > I was waiting to reply because it seemed like it had resolved itself and I > wasn't going to have to do anything but..... > > The car has been driven daily since my first post and didn't heat up again > until last night. It did almost the same thing as before. It finally got > to a point when it was really hot and the thermostat decided to open and the > engine temp dropped to normal in a matter of seconds. I already have a > spare thermostat and gasket so I am going to change it out and then I'll > bleed the system as Daniel suggested. Though I don't want to drill a hole > in the flange for fear of really messing something up ;o) > > When I installed the first thermostat I did leave the cap off and let it > warm up like Lawrence had suggested. It did start to spill out so I thought > I was ok but maybe I didn't let it go long enough. > > In the Hanes book it says to drain the entire system and reuse the coolant > if it is fairly new but doesn't mention anything about bleeding it. There > is a hex head plug at the top of the water box like Daniel said there would > be but the book didn't mention it at all. > > A friend is bringing me some larger hex wrenches later today since I don't > have any big enough. Hopefully this will fix it for good. > > Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I'll be posting another question > about my truck so stay tuned! > > > > > "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message > .umich.edu... > > On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Helvis wrote: > > > >> I have a 94 Acclaim that wouldn't hardly warm up. A friend said I > >> needed a thermostat, so I replaced it. I am pretty sure that I put it > >> in the correct way. I put it in the same way the other was in. > >> Anyway, since then it has had a couple of intermittent periods of > >> overheating. The following day we took it out and it got really hot so I > >> pulled over and opened the hood. The engine was really hot but the > >> radiator > >> and upper hose felt cold. > > > > Sounds as if you failed to bleed the air out of the cooling system after > > replacing the thermostat. That's what the screw-in fitting atop the water > > box (where the thermostat goes) is for. > > > >> I opened the radiator cap and some coolant shot out. > > > > NEVER do this; you can be very badly burned. > > > > It's good to drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange *just* outboard of > > the valve poppet, and when you install the thermostat put this hole at the > > 12:00 (top) position; this helps move air forward and evacuate it. But for > > now, you need to bleed the system. The screw plug is often frozen in > > place, so a decent alternative procedure is to put the car with the nose > > on as sharp an upward angle as possible, loosen the radiator cap and run > > the engine at a fast idle until it reaches full operating temperature and > > for about 10 minutes thereafter. > > > > The other possibility is that your engine requires a head gasket. These > > engines aren't as prone to head gasket failures as the early 2.0/2.4, but > > they do tend to need a gasket if they begin heating up like this. > Loosen the coolant temp sensor at the thermostat housing as you are filling the system up it will push almost all air out, Start the engine and let the rest burp out, you dont need to point the car up a hill or anything. Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech |
#15
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"TeGGer®" > writes:
> "Helvis" > wrote in > : > > > > > > In the Hanes book it says to drain the entire system > > > > My Hanes book says to wash my underwear regularly. Fortunately, you got the FSM andnot the Haynes book... -- Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D. Phone -- (505) 646-1605 Department of Computer Science FAX -- (505) 646-1002 New Mexico State University http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer |
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