Clutch plate removal

I need to remove the old flywheel/clutch assembly from my old engine
and transfer it to the new one. Both are AR-code 1300's, so should be
interchangeable.

To remove the flywheel, one must also remove the outer clutch housing,
which is held in place by several allen-headed bolts (hex bolts?).
Using the correct size allen key, I CANNOT undo these as they are too
tight! any secret tips in getting them off?

Also the old engine came from a semi-auto, so therefore had the semi-
auto oil pump (easily replaced) and clutch pressure plate. You can
see it in the photo below:

http://www.howard81.co.uk/upload/vz/engine/engine04.JPG

Again, any tips on removing this? I have tried bolting a large iron
bar to a scrap front pully, but this just makes the engine rock about,
despite my brother standing on it!

Howard Rose wrote:
> I need to remove the old flywheel/clutch assembly from my old engine
> and transfer it to the new one. Both are AR-code 1300's, so should be
> interchangeable.
>
> To remove the flywheel, one must also remove the outer clutch housing,
> which is held in place by several allen-headed bolts (hex bolts?).
> Using the correct size allen key, I CANNOT undo these as they are too
> tight! any secret tips in getting them off?
>
> Also the old engine came from a semi-auto, so therefore had the semi-
> auto oil pump (easily replaced) and clutch pressure plate. You can
> see it in the photo below:
>
> http://www.howard81.co.uk/upload/vz/engine/engine04.JPG
>
> Again, any tips on removing this? I have tried bolting a large iron
> bar to a scrap front pully, but this just makes the engine rock about,
> despite my brother standing on it!
>

The bolts shouldn't be that tight; someone overtorqued.
Use a length of pipe on the allen wrench. If that fails,
impact or else use a pipe wrench on the head.

You would need an iron bar about 1 meter long bolted to
the pulley or to the drive plate.
The alternative is to cart the whole lump to a tire repair
shop and ask them to impact (rattle gun) the nut off.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

I am with Speedy Jim here....................impact gun would make your life
easier for the large center bolt in the 'driveplate'! ;-)

I have seen some butchers use a chisel and a hammer striking the bolt in the
CCW direction, but I don't like that since it may try to damage your crank
bearings.

BTW those 4 little torque converter bolts should not give you any trouble
coming out unless they are very rusted to the driveplate.

JMHO
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
. net...
> Howard Rose wrote:
>> I need to remove the old flywheel/clutch assembly from my old engine
>> and transfer it to the new one. Both are AR-code 1300's, so should be
>> interchangeable.
>>
>> To remove the flywheel, one must also remove the outer clutch housing,
>> which is held in place by several allen-headed bolts (hex bolts?).
>> Using the correct size allen key, I CANNOT undo these as they are too
>> tight! any secret tips in getting them off?
>>
>> Also the old engine came from a semi-auto, so therefore had the semi-
>> auto oil pump (easily replaced) and clutch pressure plate. You can
>> see it in the photo below:
>>
>> http://www.howard81.co.uk/upload/vz/engine/engine04.JPG
>>
>> Again, any tips on removing this? I have tried bolting a large iron
>> bar to a scrap front pully, but this just makes the engine rock about,
>> despite my brother standing on it!
>>
>
> The bolts shouldn't be that tight; someone overtorqued.
> Use a length of pipe on the allen wrench. If that fails,
> impact or else use a pipe wrench on the head.
>
> You would need an iron bar about 1 meter long bolted to
> the pulley or to the drive plate.
> The alternative is to cart the whole lump to a tire repair
> shop and ask them to impact (rattle gun) the nut off.
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/