Click while turning right

Hey Folks, I have an issue with my 03 accord
its has 120,000 miles and has run great since we bought it 2 years ago

here's the issue, when turning to the right, the front left wheel
makes a clicking noise that is spaced proportionally to how fast the
wheel is turning.

My first thought it that its a CV joint issue. agree? disagee?

here's the fun part, its been doing this for 2 years apparently.
My wife drives the car the bulk of the time, and the noise only occurs
when turning right, not left, and only if it is cold outside, IE less
that 40 F. So here in Michigan for 6 months of the year the noise
never happens.

I drove it this morning its 50's out, and no noise at all

If the boots themselves are torn its a mighty small tear, I don't
have a lift so I can't see the inner boot, but I can feel both the
inner and outer boots and neither has any grease on the outside, and
both feel fully intact.

So, I am reluctant to fix something that is not broken 1/2 the year.

any recommendations on actions I should take?

Dave

"Zephyr" > wrote
> Hey Folks, I have an issue with my 03 accord
> its has 120,000 miles and has run great since we bought it
> 2 years ago
>
> here's the issue, when turning to the right, the front
> left wheel
> makes a clicking noise that is spaced proportionally to
> how fast the
> wheel is turning.
>
> My first thought it that its a CV joint issue. agree?

This is the first place to look, yes. Specifically, evaluate
the outer CV joint.

Failing outer joints click; failing inner joints clunk.

> here's the fun part, its been doing this for 2 years
> apparently.
> My wife drives the car the bulk of the time, and the noise
> only occurs
> when turning right, not left, and only if it is cold
> outside, IE less
> that 40 F. So here in Michigan for 6 months of the year
> the noise
> never happens.
>
> I drove it this morning its 50's out, and no noise at all
>
> If the boots themselves are torn its a mighty small tear,
> I don't
> have a lift so I can't see the inner boot, but I can feel
> both the
> inner and outer boots and neither has any grease on the
> outside, and
> both feel fully intact.

The grease coulda squeezed out the clamps and left the
bearings somewhat deprived, resulting in wear yada and so
the clicking. Just one theory, anyway. Michigan winters will
"wash off" the underside of cars to such an extent that I am
not sure I would trust the absence of grease.

> So, I am reluctant to fix something that is not broken
> 1/2 the year.
>
> any recommendations on actions I should take?

I have noticed that some folks here have reported ignoring
the clicking for quite some time. Google the archives for
immediate help. Others likely will post more at some point.

If it is the CV joint, it is said to be customary to replace
the entire half shaft. This is because the labor for
removing the old half shaft, and then the old CV joint, and
installing and grease-packing a new joint, exceeds the cost
of just replacing the entire half shaft. Remanned half
shafts have become widely available. OEM is recommended.
It's too easy to go amiss with shaft diameter, length, etc.
otherwise. Or so it's said.

On May 22, 2:14*pm, "Elle" > wrote:
> "Zephyr" > wrote
>
> > Hey Folks, *I have an issue with my 03 accord
> > its has 120,000 miles and has run great since we bought it
> > 2 years ago
>
> > here's the issue, *when turningtothe right, the front
> > left wheel
> > makes a clicking noise that is spaced proportionallyto
> >howfast the
> > wheel is turning.
>
> > My first thought it that its aCVjointissue. *agree?
>
> This is the first placetolook, yes. Specifically, evaluate
> the outerCVjoint.
>
> Failing outerjoints click; failing innerjoints clunk.
>
>
>
>
>
> > here's the fun part, *its been doing this for 2 years
> > apparently.
> > My wife drives the car the bulk of the time, and the noise
> > only occurs
> > when turning right, *not left, and only if it is cold
> > outside, IE less
> > that 40 F. *So here in Michigan for 6 months of the year
> > the noise
> > never happens.
>
> > I drove it this morning *its 50's out, and no noise at all
>
> > If the boots themselves are torn its a mighty small tear,
> > I don't
> > have a lift so I can't see the inner boot, but I can feel
> > both the
> > inner and outer boots and neither has any grease on the
> > outside, and
> > both feel fully intact.
>
> The grease coulda squeezed out the clamps and left the
> bearings somewhat deprived, resulting in wear yada and so
> the clicking. Just one theory, anyway. Michigan winters will
> "wash off" the underside of carstosuch an extent that I am
> not sure I would trust the absence of grease.
>
> > So, *I am reluctanttofix something that is not broken
> > 1/2 the year.
>
> > any recommendations on actions I should take?
>
> I have noticed that some folks here have reported ignoring
> the clicking for quite some time. Google the archives for
> immediate help. Others likely will post more at some point.
>
> If it is theCVjoint, it is saidtobe customarytoreplace
> the entire half shaft. This is because the labor for
> removing the old half shaft, and then the oldCVjoint, and
> installing and grease-packing a newjoint, exceeds the cost
> of just replacing the entire half shaft. Remanned half
> shafts have become widely available. OEM is recommended.
> It's too easytogo amiss with shaft diameter, length, etc.
> otherwise. Or so it's said.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Showquoted text -

I am considering trying to slide the outer boot back away from the
joint, repacking the joint, then re attaching the same undamaged
boot, anyone done this? I am worried about getting the boot back
into place once it is slid back.


Dave

Zephyr > wrote in news:2893983c-b455-4444-9de2-
:


>
> I am considering trying to slide the outer boot back away from the
> joint, repacking the joint, then re attaching the same undamaged
> boot, anyone done this? I am worried about getting the boot back
> into place once it is slid back.
>


A CV joint clicks because the balls are breaking up. It has nothing to do
with the grease.

You need to replace the joint, or the entire shaft. New grease will have
absolutely NO effect.

See he
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/worn_cv-joint/
THAT's why CV joints click.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

I guess the only thing I would comment on is for this part, is it
necessary to get OEM?

A new shaft for this car would run $411.52 and a remanufactured would
run $211.44, while a brand new Cardone new shaft is roughly $100 for
each side (with a lifetime warranty). When I had to replace them on my
95 Accord and 95 Integra I went with Cardone. They have been on the
car for 3 years now without any problems (knock on wood). The only
thing that I noticed is on the metal part of the shaft there is a
little rust vs. the painted surface on the OEM ones.

Our 99 Accord is coming up next for the replacement. Hopefully the
DeWalt that you have used will work like a charm at removing the
spindle nut.


Nick



On Sat, 24 May 2008 00:12:36 +0000 (UTC), Tegger >
wrote:

>Zephyr > wrote in news:2893983c-b455-4444-9de2-
:
>
>
>>
>> I am considering trying to slide the outer boot back away from the
>> joint, repacking the joint, then re attaching the same undamaged
>> boot, anyone done this? I am worried about getting the boot back
>> into place once it is slid back.
>>
>
>
>A CV joint clicks because the balls are breaking up. It has nothing to do
>with the grease.
>
>You need to replace the joint, or the entire shaft. New grease will have
>absolutely NO effect.
>
>See he
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/worn_cv-joint/
>THAT's why CV joints click.