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Seeking additional info abour repairs to a Jeep
I have been quoted some prices on some potential repairs to my 95 Jeep
Wrangler, but being a non-technical owner (I just drive the thing, I don't know how it works) I have a hard time understanding these problems, guaging how important they really are, and guessing whether or not I am getting a decent price. I do trust this particular mechanic, and they are not presenting these problems to me as high-importance must-fix-for-safe-operation problems, but I would still appreciate it if some of you knowledgable jeep-people could offer your opinions on these: 1) What is a "Rear Main Seal". How important is a leak in one? Is it worth over $400 to fix? 2) What is the transmissions "Transfer Case Seal"? How important is a leak in it? Is it worth over $300 to fix? 3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth approx $150 to have done? |
#2
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Bob-googlegroups did pass the time by typing:
> I have been quoted some prices on some potential repairs to my 95 Jeep > Wrangler, but being a non-technical owner (I just drive the thing, I > don't know how it works) I have a hard time understanding these > problems, guaging how important they really are, and guessing whether > or not I am getting a decent price. > > I do trust this particular mechanic, and they are not presenting these > problems to me as high-importance must-fix-for-safe-operation problems, > but I would still appreciate it if some of you knowledgable jeep-people > could offer your opinions on these: > > 1) What is a "Rear Main Seal". How important is a leak in one? Is it > worth over $400 to fix? The rear-main-seal is on the engine output shaft. It's two C shaped bits of rubber, one that fits into the engine block and the other that lays on the back of the oil pan. Understand that a lot of "rear main seal" leaks are actually the rear of the valve cover, especially on the 4.0 I6. Always check there first as rear main seals last quite a long time. End result is your jeep will drip oil on the garage. Keep an eye on the oil level and it's not that big of a deal. > 2) What is the transmissions "Transfer Case Seal"? How important is a > leak in it? Is it worth over $300 to fix? That's the output shaft seal and probably bushing. Unless it's a gusher all it does is drip a bit of tranny fluid on the driveway. Check fluids regularly. > 3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth approx > $150 to have done? That's a can-o-cleaner they put into the fuel rail and run through your engine, including running stuff down the throttle body. It cleans out carbon deposits and fuel injectors. Not a bad thing and not unreasonable for the price, although if your engine is in fairly good shape there are good in-tank cleaners available. Techron for one. The prices you were quoted aren't unreasonable for the mechanics time. And if you trust the mechanics work that's better than saving a buck and getting a crap job done. I'd still have a look at that rear main seal vs/ valve cover leak first. All that take is reaching behind the motor and wiping the block off just below the valve cover. Then after you drive it and let it cool, go back there and wipe again. If you come up with oil, that's the source. It leaks from the back and runs down. Does a good impersonation of a rear main seal leak. The parts themselves aren't expensive, it's the time. That's why lots of us do our own wrenching. The money saved allows us to buy more toys. -- -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.cox.net/wilsond HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge! |
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On Thu, 7 Jul 2005, DougW wrote:
> > 3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth > > approx $150 to have done? > That's a can-o-cleaner they put into the fuel rail and run through your > engine, including running stuff down the throttle body. It cleans out > carbon deposits and fuel injectors. Not a bad thing and not > unreasonable for the price Are you high? There's nothing in that $150 "induction flush" that cannot be achieved with a $16 bottle of Chevron Techron or BG 44K. |
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Daniel J. Stern did pass the time by typing:
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2005, DougW wrote: > >>> 3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth >>> approx $150 to have done? > >> That's a can-o-cleaner they put into the fuel rail and run through your >> engine, including running stuff down the throttle body. It cleans out >> carbon deposits and fuel injectors. Not a bad thing and not >> unreasonable for the price > > Are you high? There's nothing in that $150 "induction flush" that cannot > be achieved with a $16 bottle of Chevron Techron or BG 44K. I'm not high and that $16 bottle of techron has no where near the cleaning capability of the stuff they feed directly into the rail. I prefer to use this system though. http://www.motorvac.com/ Average cost is $99 and it takes about half an hour. -- -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.cox.net/wilsond HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge! |
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> wrote in message oups.com... > I have been quoted some prices on some potential repairs to my 95 Jeep > Wrangler, but being a non-technical owner (I just drive the thing, I > don't know how it works) I have a hard time understanding these > problems, guaging how important they really are, and guessing whether > or not I am getting a decent price. > > I do trust this particular mechanic, and they are not presenting these > problems to me as high-importance must-fix-for-safe-operation problems, > but I would still appreciate it if some of you knowledgable jeep-people > could offer your opinions on these: > > 1) What is a "Rear Main Seal". How important is a leak in one? Is it > worth over $400 to fix? > If, and that's a big I-F, the rear main is really leaking, then it would take about $400 to fix. The part - the rear main seal - is about $30, and the oil pan gasket set is another $30 or so. That's $60 for gaskets and $340 for labor. That is a bit on the high side, but not hugely on the high side. I don't think your rear main is the problem, the Valve Cover Gasket is the more likely culprit. > 2) What is the transmissions "Transfer Case Seal"? How important is a > leak in it? Is it worth over $300 to fix? > This is a tough one. The tcase does have seals on the front and the back, and if the seals are leaking then you need to have them replaced. It is a job that most of us will tackle at home, but you said that you don't do any service more complicated than filling the gas tank, so you will be subjected to the going rate at the service center. If the repairs you listed up here, this is the one that has the best chance of actually being needed. The Rear Main is probably a valve cover gasket, and the injector cleaner is stuff that you can pour into the gas tank yourself. I suggest you pass on the injector service, have the shop take a close look at the valve cover -- particularly the portion near the firewall -- and get a second opinion on the tcase. > 3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth approx > $150 to have done? > This is a giant bottle of snake oil. You can buy a few small bottles of snake oil at the auto parts store and pour one in with every fill up for the next several weeks. Snake Oil is a bit of a misnomer, but you can buy Fuel Injector Cleaner for about 5 bucks per bottle, and throw one in with a fill up, and follow that with the next fill up or two, then add one bottle with each fill up when you do an oil change and this should keep the injectors clean and trouble free. There is nothing with this service to warrant a service ticket for $150. |
#6
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"Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message = ... .... > > 3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth = approx > > $150 to have done? > > >=20 > This is a giant bottle of snake oil. You can buy a few small bottles = of > snake oil at the auto parts store and pour one in with every fill up = for the > next several weeks. Or just use Chevron gasoline... Shell gas also has the high-tech additives in it now. This is one service you don't need... major boondoggle. __ Steve .. |
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Stephen Cowell wrote:
> > "Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message ... > > ... > > > > 3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth approx > > > $150 to have done? > > > > > > > This is a giant bottle of snake oil. You can buy a few small bottles of > > snake oil at the auto parts store and pour one in with every fill up for the > > next several weeks. > > Or just use Chevron gasoline... Shell gas also has > the high-tech additives in it now. This is one service > you don't need... major boondoggle. > __ > Steve > . I just tried a tank of that Shell 91 octane super crap on a trip and my engine went insane! I don't know what is in it, but my manually set up 258 would 'not' run over 65 mph except on a down hill, I even had to gear down on a couple long uphill runs, which is unheard of for my rig, even 3rd gear wouldn't pass 65 mph! (normally 3rd pulls fast up to at least 75 mph) I also lost about 30% for gas mileage. It made for a long trip home too. I finally got it low enough and put in Esso gas and magically my engine came back alive with it's normal tire chirp off a fast start and top end power restored. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
#8
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Check it's alcohol content.
Mike Romain wrote: > Stephen Cowell wrote: > >>"Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message ... >> >>... >> >> >>>>3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth approx >>>>$150 to have done? >>>> >>> >>>This is a giant bottle of snake oil. You can buy a few small bottles of >>>snake oil at the auto parts store and pour one in with every fill up for the >>>next several weeks. >> >>Or just use Chevron gasoline... Shell gas also has >>the high-tech additives in it now. This is one service >>you don't need... major boondoggle. >>__ >>Steve >>. > > > I just tried a tank of that Shell 91 octane super crap on a trip and my > engine went insane! > > I don't know what is in it, but my manually set up 258 would 'not' run > over 65 mph except on a down hill, I even had to gear down on a couple > long uphill runs, which is unheard of for my rig, even 3rd gear wouldn't > pass 65 mph! (normally 3rd pulls fast up to at least 75 mph) > > I also lost about 30% for gas mileage. It made for a long trip home > too. > > I finally got it low enough and put in Esso gas and magically my engine > came back alive with it's normal tire chirp off a fast start and top end > power restored. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
#9
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Could be, but there are two gasses that use that cleaner and my 258 runs
like crap on both of them. Someone mentioned I might be running lean, so last carb kit I went a little richer on the high speed metering rods and then tried that Shell gas. No help, it still won't burn the crap. All I got was a slight bog if I stomp it too fast with real gas. At least the adjustment is up top so I only have to open one plate to get it back. Mike RoyJ wrote: > > Check it's alcohol content. > > Mike Romain wrote: > > Stephen Cowell wrote: > > > >>"Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message ... > >> > >>... > >> > >> > >>>>3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth approx > >>>>$150 to have done? > >>>> > >>> > >>>This is a giant bottle of snake oil. You can buy a few small bottles of > >>>snake oil at the auto parts store and pour one in with every fill up for the > >>>next several weeks. > >> > >>Or just use Chevron gasoline... Shell gas also has > >>the high-tech additives in it now. This is one service > >>you don't need... major boondoggle. > >>__ > >>Steve > >>. > > > > > > I just tried a tank of that Shell 91 octane super crap on a trip and my > > engine went insane! > > > > I don't know what is in it, but my manually set up 258 would 'not' run > > over 65 mph except on a down hill, I even had to gear down on a couple > > long uphill runs, which is unheard of for my rig, even 3rd gear wouldn't > > pass 65 mph! (normally 3rd pulls fast up to at least 75 mph) > > > > I also lost about 30% for gas mileage. It made for a long trip home > > too. > > > > I finally got it low enough and put in Esso gas and magically my engine > > came back alive with it's normal tire chirp off a fast start and top end > > power restored. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
#10
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Mike Romain proclaimed:
> Stephen Cowell wrote: > >>"Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message ... >> >>... >> >> >>>>3) What is an "Induction Flush" how important is it? Is it worth approx >>>>$150 to have done? >>>> >>> >>>This is a giant bottle of snake oil. You can buy a few small bottles of >>>snake oil at the auto parts store and pour one in with every fill up for the >>>next several weeks. >> >>Or just use Chevron gasoline... Shell gas also has >>the high-tech additives in it now. This is one service >>you don't need... major boondoggle. >>__ >>Steve >>. > > > I just tried a tank of that Shell 91 octane super crap on a trip and my > engine went insane! Since Bush Gas, I haven't been able to run Texaco, Chevron, or Shell regular in a 95 4.0 without mild ping. Recently the local Valero station ran out of midgrade, and it seems that their regular will actually run without ping. |
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