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Parts from a 93 GC same on a 96 GC
My v8 96 ZJ needs 2 parts and I'd like to know if anyone knows if they're
interchangable with the ones from a v6 96 that's available. 1) The driver door electric lock (motor I guess): only sometimes operates the lock, and when it does move the lock, the lock only slides half-way or less.. Sometimes that's just enough to engage or disengage the lock, sometimes it's not, and I have to then use the key to lock, or unlock the door manually. I've never looked at my motor, but I assume that it's "going", since the physical lock mechanism seems to manually move just fine (no particular unusual resistance there). 2) The oil level sensor (screws into the side of the oil pan): There's a slight leak from mine. The 96 doesn't have a VIC in the center like my 93, just the LED for the 4 wheel drive mode. I don't even know if the 96 has an oil level sensor since I haven't yet looked. Thanks. -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1 |
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Parts from a 93 GC same on a 96 GC
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Parts from a 93 GC same on a 96 GC
jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> My v8 96 ZJ needs 2 parts and I'd like to know if anyone knows if they're > interchangable with the ones from a v6 96 that's available. > > 1) The driver door electric lock (motor I guess): > only sometimes operates the lock, and when it does move the lock, the lock > only slides half-way or less.. Sometimes that's just enough to engage or > disengage the lock, sometimes it's not, and I have to then use the key to > lock, or unlock the door manually. 94-98 It's a whole motor/lock assembly and not cheap. $109 or abouts for a new one. You might get lucky and clean it, but I've had mixed results with the rear door motor. > I've never looked at my motor, but I assume that it's "going", since the > physical lock mechanism seems to manually move just fine (no particular > unusual resistance there). It's full of dirt. There was a TSB but no recall to my knowledge. > 2) The oil level sensor (screws into the side of the oil pan): > There's a slight leak from mine. The 96 doesn't have a VIC in the center like > my 93, just the LED for the 4 wheel drive mode. I don't even know if the 96 > has an oil level sensor since I haven't yet looked. That's not a cheap doodad. ECHFLS102 from NAPA and it's $56.99 Also the same between 94-98 Be careful with it, the end bit is very sensitive and can be damaged by crushing. The good thing it's only an idiot light and can be ignored. Make sure it's not something else dripping on it or that the gasket isn't loose. -- DougW |
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Parts from a 93 GC same on a 96 GC
Are the doors the same color? If not, do you care? What I am leading up
to, is swap the whole door, and save yourself a headache. Earle "jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message news:5f71f0966ac3e@uwe... > My v8 96 ZJ needs 2 parts and I'd like to know if anyone knows if they're > interchangable with the ones from a v6 96 that's available. > > 1) The driver door electric lock (motor I guess): > only sometimes operates the lock, and when it does move the lock, the lock > only slides half-way or less.. Sometimes that's just enough to engage or > disengage the lock, sometimes it's not, and I have to then use the key to > lock, or unlock the door manually. > > I've never looked at my motor, but I assume that it's "going", since the > physical lock mechanism seems to manually move just fine (no particular > unusual resistance there). > > > 2) The oil level sensor (screws into the side of the oil pan): > There's a slight leak from mine. The 96 doesn't have a VIC in the center like > my 93, just the LED for the 4 wheel drive mode. I don't even know if the 96 > has an oil level sensor since I haven't yet looked. > > Thanks. > > -- > Message posted via CarKB.com > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1 |
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Parts from a 93 GC same on a 96 GC
Doug, so you're saying my 93 has an incompatible door-motor-locking mechanism
than what is in the 6 cyl 96 that I have access to at salvage? (It's the front driver side BTW, not the rear). As far as the oil level sender goes (and the oil pan in general), I just changed the gasket and cleaned the pan out (which incidentally fixed my erratic oil pressure gauge readings which would "bounce" around from top to bottom-- now my readings are stable between 40 and 60 or so). The leak I referred to in the OP is definately from the sender itself and no where else. Perhaps one drop over night and that all. Just a nuisance. Earle, the door's are a different color, (and somewhat different cofig's also, in and out), so I'd rather do the work to fix/replace the lock motor mechanism. Hopefully, what Doug said about the lock motor mechanism simply being filled with dirt and impeding the movement some of the time is the problem and I can just clean it out. We'll see. -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200605/1 |
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Parts from a 93 GC same on a 96 GC
jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> Doug, so you're saying my 93 has an incompatible door-motor-locking mechanism > than what is in the 6 cyl 96 that I have access to at salvage? (It's the > front driver side BTW, not the rear). You could write these folks http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ or call 888-528-2200 and the parts desk can look them up for you. I show a different part for 93 than 94... however, I have a 93 and there are parts on mine that are from the 94 production run. The only way to tell for certain is to take the door off and get the number from the part. (all parts have painted or stamped numbers on them) Oh.. and when you do, you will probably break some of those plastic push thingies. The dealer wants way too much for them. I bought a bag-o-50 from http://www.thecliplink.com/ ..ignore the Jeep part and use the 18915 http://store.thecliplink.com/18915.html It's the same dang part but less$$. They do have a minimum purchase though. I just got clips for the bumpers, trim, etc. Now I don't care if I break one taking things apart. Oh, and the screw inserts, 19276. > As far as the oil level sender goes (and the oil pan in general), I just > changed the gasket and cleaned the pan out (which incidentally fixed my > erratic oil pressure gauge readings which would "bounce" around from top to > bottom-- now my readings are stable between 40 and 60 or so). The pressure sender is by the oil filter and generally cleaning the connector fixes most problems. 40-60 stable sounds ok. A new sender can be had from NAPA Part# OP6695 $37.50, if you get a military discount (or jobber discount) it's a few bucks cheaper. http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/diag...r-oil-pressure My ZJ was running about 60-70 steady (too high, but related to a bad sender) Replaced it a few weeks ago and everything is nice and even now. > The leak I referred to in the OP is definately from the sender itself and no > where else. Perhaps one drop over night and that all. Just a nuisance. Zip tie and a piece of cloth? -- DougW |
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