Need help with 1990 4-sale

Consider the investigating, the shopping and the test driving as part of the
fun, it really is and you'll be a smart buyer when you pull the trigger.

One thing I'd add, tire quality can make a huge difference in how these cars
drive. You can't test drive all of them with the same tires obviously but,
equally important, is tire pressure and since most people are clueless on
this issue (sadly, even some miata folks), you really want to make this part
of your pre-testdrive check. Make sure that pressures are equal rt to lft
and not too much different frnt to bk. Optimum tire pressures can be debated
here all day (and have been) but probably nothing below 25psi and, best if
not over 32psi or so. The optimum psi not being the issue here but, the
attempt to be able to compare 'apples to apples'. This will help your butt
interpret the suspension more accurately.

Good luck,
Chris
99BBB


"Sean" > wrote in message ...
> Thanks for the help everyone... looks like I'll be a while checking
> things out.
>
> Sean_Q_

"Chris D'Agnolo" > wrote in
:

> Optimum tire pressures can be debated here all day (and have been)

Nothing to debate, everyone knows the pressure on the door sticker is
the correct one and decreasing the pressure even 1/2 lb will cause the
tire to overheat and explode, killing the driver, the passenger and any
bystanders while increasing the pressure by 1/2 pound will cause the
tire to explode with sufficient force to rupture the space/time
continum and destroy all life on earth.

Or maybe not....

XS11E wrote:
>
> Chris D'Agnolo wrote:
>
> > Optimum tire pressures can be debated here all day (and
> > have been)
>
> Nothing to debate, everyone knows the pressure on the door
> sticker is the correct one and decreasing the pressure
> even 1/2 lb will cause the tire to overheat and explode,
> killing the driver, the passenger and any bystanders while
> increasing the pressure by 1/2 pound will cause the tire
> to explode with sufficient force to rupture the space/time
> continum and destroy all life on earth.
>
> Or maybe not....

Yeah right, but I can definitely tell the difference when one of my
tires is more than 1 PSI different from the others. FWD Corollas are
sensitive to tire pressure like that too. The best investment I've made
for my car in terms of _sports car performance_ (you're spose ta hear
all kinda zoomy sounds when you read that phrase) was a digital bicycle
tire gauge and a portable air pump.

Yours WDK -

Chris D'Agnolo wrote:
> Consider the investigating, the shopping and the test driving as part of the
> fun, it really is and you'll be a smart buyer when you pull the trigger.
>
> One thing I'd add, tire quality can make a huge difference in how these cars
> drive. You can't test drive all of them with the same tires obviously but,
> equally important, is tire pressure and since most people are clueless on
> this issue (sadly, even some miata folks), you really want to make this part
> of your pre-testdrive check. Make sure that pressures are equal rt to lft
> and not too much different frnt to bk. Optimum tire pressures can be debated
> here all day (and have been) but probably nothing below 25psi and, best if
> not over 32psi or so. The optimum psi not being the issue here but, the
> attempt to be able to compare 'apples to apples'. This will help your butt
> interpret the suspension more accurately.
>
> Good luck,
> Chris
> 99BBB


That is good advice. I test drove somewhere between 20 and 30 miatas
before I bought my first one, I lost track after a while. It was kind of
fun but became tedious, especially doing it after work and on the weekends.
It might have been different if every one had been decent, but some were
real dogs. Even a miata must be maintained.

In addition, that car salesperson slime was becoming a part of me that
would not wash off. If I offended any car salespeople, good, that was my
intent.

A lot of the cars appeared to be in good shape but just didn't feel
right. This could have been from an accident, bad alignment, or tire
pressures as you mentioned, which I did not think to check on a used car.
I will bet that many others fail to do so as well, there are so many
things to look at that it is easy to forget if you don't have it on your
checklist.

One '95 miata that drove beautifully had a big ragged hole on the driver
side floorboard. The salesperson told me that it was not a big deal. I
told him I guess not, as long as he didn't mind me walking away from the
car.
I don't go to car lots or dealerships to make friends. ;-)

Pat

W. Kiernan wrote:

> Yeah right, but I can definitely tell the difference when one of my
> tires is more than 1 PSI different from the others. FWD Corollas are
> sensitive to tire pressure like that too. The best investment I've made
> for my car in terms of _sports car performance_ (you're spose ta hear
> all kinda zoomy sounds when you read that phrase) was a digital bicycle
> tire gauge and a portable air pump.
>
> Yours WDK -

I could sure tell the other day when I picked up a nail and had 28
pounds on one side in the rear and 12 in the other. Things were a bit
squirmy on acceleration out of the driveway.

I agree, a portable air compressor had gotten me going without using the
donut wheel, which I only carry on long trips anyway, usually without
needing to plug the tire, but I have one of those kits in there too just
in case.
Only a sidewall tear or a total blowout, neither of which I have ever
experienced in any of my cars, would be likely to leave me stranded.

I have almost always had a compressor and tire plug kit in my car for
about 20 years. I have only needed the plug kit a few times and then had
it professionally patched or replaced each time afterwards.

Pat