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1965 Mustang PS Conversion
Hi,
Trying to convert my 65 Mustang from Manual to Power Steering. Does anyone know if the Steering Box needs to be changed? Or do I just need the Control Valve and Slave Cylinder? Thanks |
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#2
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The PS steering box is quicker than the manual one, 16:1 vs. 19:1. The
PS setup also uses longer idler and Pitman arms. I wouldn't worry about changing the box, but I would get the longer arms, which are marketed as the "Shelby quick steer" kit. You also need a PS drag link, aka center link, but you probably already know that. 180 Out |
#3
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#4
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Or you can go with a bolt in rack and pinion. Get the kit with the
tilt steering column: ) I've been eyeing the www.mustangsplus.com RP&Tilt kit. On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 11:27:13 -0600, Chris > wrote: > Hi, >Trying to convert my 65 Mustang from Manual to Power Steering. Does >anyone know if the Steering Box needs to be changed? Or do I just >need the Control Valve and Slave Cylinder? > >Thanks Hey! Spikey Likes IT! 1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16 |
#5
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Spike wrote:
> Or you can go with a bolt in rack and pinion. Get the kit with the > tilt steering column: ) I've been eyeing the www.mustangsplus.com > RP&Tilt kit. > > On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 11:27:13 -0600, Chris > > wrote: > > >> Hi, >>Trying to convert my 65 Mustang from Manual to Power Steering. Does >>anyone know if the Steering Box needs to be changed? Or do I just >>need the Control Valve and Slave Cylinder? >> I used the R&P manual kit from Mustangs Plus. I had factory PS, but (as has been said) it's not very accurate, and it leaked a lot. It's also heavy, and the factory pump robs enough power to be noticeable. I have to admit I don't much like it. The ad says, "Manual steering that feels like power". Don't believe it. It fells good when driving down the road. Very smooth and precise. But low speed maneuvers do require some muscle; much more than my Cobra. If Flaming River ever makes a power rack for this conversion, I'll be buying one. I'm also looking closely at this kit called "Steeroids". If I had seen that a few months sooner, I would have bought it. -- ..boB 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged! 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project |
#6
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I thought Flaming River had begun producing a bolt in R&P matched to
their tilt column. I know that with the kit you do not need to cut the column shaft as you do when you buy only the column. On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 16:38:56 -0700, ".boB" > wrote: >Spike wrote: >> Or you can go with a bolt in rack and pinion. Get the kit with the >> tilt steering column: ) I've been eyeing the www.mustangsplus.com >> RP&Tilt kit. >> >> On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 11:27:13 -0600, Chris > >> wrote: >> >> >>> Hi, >>>Trying to convert my 65 Mustang from Manual to Power Steering. Does >>>anyone know if the Steering Box needs to be changed? Or do I just >>>need the Control Valve and Slave Cylinder? >>> > > I used the R&P manual kit from Mustangs Plus. I >had factory PS, but (as has been said) it's not very >accurate, and it leaked a lot. It's also heavy, and >the factory pump robs enough power to be noticeable. > I have to admit I don't much like it. The ad >says, "Manual steering that feels like power". Don't >believe it. It fells good when driving down the road. > Very smooth and precise. But low speed maneuvers do >require some muscle; much more than my Cobra. > If Flaming River ever makes a power rack for this >conversion, I'll be buying one. I'm also looking >closely at this kit called "Steeroids". If I had seen >that a few months sooner, I would have bought it. Hey! Spikey Likes IT! 1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16 |
#7
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Spike wrote:
> I thought Flaming River had begun producing a bolt in R&P matched to > their tilt column. I know that with the kit you do not need to cut the > column shaft as you do when you buy only the column. Yes, that's the kit I used. You rip out all the old junk, from the steering wheel to the spindles, and install their kit. -- ..boB 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged! 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project |
#8
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I know the column is Flaming River, but isn't the R&P Flaming River as
well? Overall, what did you think? quality, ease of install, etc.... On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 17:52:11 -0700, ".boB" > wrote: >Spike wrote: >> I thought Flaming River had begun producing a bolt in R&P matched to >> their tilt column. I know that with the kit you do not need to cut the >> column shaft as you do when you buy only the column. > Yes, that's the kit I used. You rip out all the >old junk, from the steering wheel to the spindles, and >install their kit. Hey! Spikey Likes IT! 1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16 |
#9
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Spike wrote:
> I know the column is Flaming River, but isn't the R&P Flaming River as > well? > > Overall, what did you think? quality, ease of install, etc.... Yes, it's all built by FR, column, rack, U-joints, cradle, etc. It think it's a pretty good quality, but there were a couple of things I was not happy with. I've used FR racks before, and never had any problems. I have one in my Cobra kit. They are smooth, long lasting, and fit the application well. I've never heard of one failing. The cradle fit almost exactly as designed. There was a poorly done weld on my car (not the cradle) that I had to modify for. And the right side rack bracket hit the starter motor, so I had to modify that a little. But the rack and cradle really was a simple bolt on affair. There are separate parts for headers and non-headers applications. The U-joints are very high quality. I think they are the best in the business. The column was another matter. It's a tilt, but only seems to have two positions. I had some trouble getting it wired correctly, the instructions were not exactly correct. I used the service manual to get that right. The floor plate is held to the column by two cheesy little #6 sheet metal screws. I added two steel #10 nutserts in their place, and two stainless bolts. And the column feels rough when you turn it, it makes a slight scraping noise. All in all, a shoddy piece of work. If I were to do it again, I would use the FR rack and cradle, and go to Iditit for the column. If you want power steering, go to Steeroids or Total Control. And here's another little tip that nobody has mentioned before. You know the stock '65 steering column and box are one piece, affectionately known as the "Thoracic Impaler". There is no way you're going to get that out in one piece with the engine in place. That's where a sawzall comes in. -- ..boB 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged! 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver 1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project |
#10
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..boB wrote:
> Spike wrote: > >> Or you can go with a bolt in rack and pinion. Get the kit with the >> tilt steering column: ) I've been eyeing the www.mustangsplus.com >> RP&Tilt kit. >> >> On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 11:27:13 -0600, Chris > >> wrote: >> >> >>> Hi, >>> Trying to convert my 65 Mustang from Manual to Power Steering. Does >>> anyone know if the Steering Box needs to be changed? Or do I just >>> need the Control Valve and Slave Cylinder? >>> > > I used the R&P manual kit from Mustangs Plus. I had factory PS, but > (as has been said) it's not very accurate, and it leaked a lot. It's > also heavy, and the factory pump robs enough power to be noticeable. Yes, I also noticed the reduced drag, and noise. Less float, too. > I have to admit I don't much like it. The ad says, "Manual steering > that feels like power". Don't believe it. It fells good when driving > down the road. Very smooth and precise. But low speed maneuvers do > require some muscle; much more than my Cobra. The increased effort is true, even the best MS setup doesn't feel -at all- like PS. It does feel better overall IMO. It improves road feel considerably, as Bob mentioned. It took me a few months to acclimate to how manual steering cars like to be turned, while rolling -just- a little bit. There are times I curse it, but they are few. Also, this tidbit - my '67 is set to +1 deg. caster (I believe -0.5 deg. is the stock caster setting), and while this actually increases steering effort, it makes the car track better. This rec. came from an old geezer curmudgeon (not ByM). It is well worth it. > If Flaming River ever makes a power rack for this conversion, I'll be > buying one. I'm also looking closely at this kit called "Steeroids". > If I had seen that a few months sooner, I would have bought it. With R&P, also keep in mind header interference, and other things. I've considered R&P, but to me, it's just not worth the expense. I'll put those $ into horsepower and paint, and deal with the bump-steering, skittish factory steering characteristics. And with MS, put the thing into a power-on (or off) slide with a tight, even factory-spec suspension, and it'll naturally correct itself. You just have to know how and when to catch it, then reel it in. It's a lot more fun than the mushy PS setup, to me. My suggestion? Unless you've got a BB, get a 16:1 box, and just grease everything well every 6 mo..... my ten cents -- Wound Up ThunderSnake #65 |
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