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#21
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Daniel J. Stern wrote:
> On Wed, 13 Jul 2005, Hugo Schmeisser wrote: > > > Speaking of tough-to-find bulbs, I've been having a devil of a time > > finding a replacement for the Stanley 12V5W bulbs that came in the > > corner lights of my '92 Civic. Two clear ones are used, one for the > > signal and one for the marker light. > > > > Stanley will not sell to the aftermarket (I called them), and my > > local dealer does not stock them. They simply replace burnt-out > > ones with (I think) 194s that are nowhere near as bright. > > > > Do you keep these as well? > > Yep, in four different varieties. > > > And as an aside, why do they silver-over with age? Is this the > > filament depositing itself upon the glass? > > Yep. > > Send me an e-mail via danielsternlighting.com and I'll get you helped > out. And so I have. Please check your email. |
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#22
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There used to be a material for stage lighting that you dipped bulbs in
to change color. fairly durable unless scratched. |
#23
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#24
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Ulf wrote:
> Nate Nagel wrote: > > > Is there any legitimate method for turning a clear glass bulb into an > > amber one? I'm not nuts about the lack of contrast between the turn > > signals and headlights, but I'm also not prepared to modify the very > > rare and expensive parking light housings with a different socket... > > Actually, white parking lights/turn signals work pretty good, at least > as long as they're not too close to the headlights. I put clear turn > signal/parking/DRL bulbs on my Camaro (as a temporary fix after the > inspection) last spring, and I almost prefer having white DRLs, seem to > be less confusing IME. Probably not legal. For some strange reason, the front turn signals bulbs in my car are clear behind an amber lens (in the headlight assembly). The rears are amber bulbs in a clear lens. The assemblies are made by different manufacturers. > There's also a product called "Color Chrome", or something like that. I > thought about buying a can and color the lights on my BMW a little. I'm > not sure if it works on bulbs, or only lenses, but it might be worth a > try. YMMV. I've seen some "color covers". I know - "halfassed ****". Might even burn? Well - I did get some clear (Sylvania packaged) 7440 and 7443 bulbs as spares. I can't quite figure out why they're not packaged (in pairs) in a way to keep the bulbs from banging into each other. I took them out and covered them in bubble wrap. The 7443s are different. The base is darkened like smoked glass. They say "12W21/5W" and "E11" (in a rounded box), with no country of origin. They package says they're made in Japan. I still have to contact DS about the amber bulbs and some H1 bulbs I need. |
#25
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Daniel J. Stern wrote:
> On Thu, 14 Jul 2005 wrote: > > > There used to be a material for stage lighting that you dipped > > bulbs in to change color. fairly durable unless scratched. > > Rosco Colorine. Its formula had to be changed dramatically (as it > were) in the 1990s to comply with VOC regulations. The old stuff > dried hard and was quite durable. The new stuff stays gummy/sticky > and can only be used on bulbs of less than 15 watts otherwise it > bubbles and smokes. It's also available now in only a fraction of the > range of colors it used to come in, none of which is suitable for car > bulbs. Unfortunately, this option no longer exists. I've seen aerosol cans of "light bulb paint" on certain Web sites that cater to the rice-rocket crowd. It's very expensive. You use it to turn your clear bulbs blue or whatnot. Not that I would consider using it (much too old for that sort of thing), but is this stuff considered a bodge as well? |
#26
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On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Hugo Schmeisser wrote:
> I've seen aerosol cans of "light bulb paint" on certain Web sites that > cater to the rice-rocket crowd. It's very expensive. You use it to turn > your clear bulbs blue or whatnot. ....and it fades to a nice brownish-clear after about 6 minutes' worth of bulb "on" time, hence the "half pink, half brownish-white" appearance of the clear taillamps with red-painted bulbs. |
#27
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y_p_w wrote:
> Ulf wrote: > >>Nate Nagel wrote: >> >> >>>Is there any legitimate method for turning a clear glass bulb into an >>>amber one? I'm not nuts about the lack of contrast between the turn >>>signals and headlights, but I'm also not prepared to modify the very >>>rare and expensive parking light housings with a different socket... >> >>Actually, white parking lights/turn signals work pretty good, at least >>as long as they're not too close to the headlights. I put clear turn >>signal/parking/DRL bulbs on my Camaro (as a temporary fix after the >>inspection) last spring, and I almost prefer having white DRLs, seem to >>be less confusing IME. > > > Probably not legal. For some strange reason, the front turn signals > bulbs in my car are clear behind an amber lens (in the headlight > assembly). The rears are amber bulbs in a clear lens. The assemblies > are made by different manufacturers. Actually, it is. LOL, overengineered..? BTW, saw a new Saab wagon with white taillight lenses today driving home in the rain. The light was weird, kind of blurry, like it was filtered somehow. The side markers were red LEDs though... > > >>There's also a product called "Color Chrome", or something like that. I >>thought about buying a can and color the lights on my BMW a little. I'm >>not sure if it works on bulbs, or only lenses, but it might be worth a >>try. YMMV. > > > I've seen some "color covers". I know - "halfassed ****". Might even > burn? Possibly. It will make the bulb dimmer in either case, although maybe not enough to make a difference. > > Well - I did get some clear (Sylvania packaged) 7440 and 7443 bulbs as > spares. I can't quite figure out why they're not packaged (in pairs) in > a way to keep the bulbs from banging into each other. I took them out > and covered them in bubble wrap. The 7443s are different. The base > is darkened like smoked glass. They say "12W21/5W" and "E11" (in a > rounded box), with no country of origin. They package says they're > made in Japan. I still have to contact DS about the amber bulbs and > some H1 bulbs I need. Good luck. > Ulf |
#28
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Daniel J. Stern wrote: > On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Nate Nagel wrote: > > > > Speaking of tough-to-find bulbs, I've been having a devil of a time > > > finding a replacement for the Stanley 12V5W bulbs that came in the > > > corner lights of my '92 Civic. Two clear ones are used, one for the > > > signal and one for the marker light. Stanley will not sell to the > > > aftermarket (I called them), and my local dealer does not stock them. > > > They simply replace burnt-out ones with (I think) 194s that are > > > nowhere near as bright. > > > If they are replaced by 194s, try a W5W I think? > > Nope. W5W is closer than 194, but not the correct bulb for the > application. Not to be argumentative, but what's the difference? It's a 5W bulb in the same form factor as a 194... curious why there would be a need for a bulb almost the same, but different... But you reminded me of another question I wanted to ask. Do you have any experience with LED lights either in a 194-like wedge base or else as a replacement for a #55? Reason I ask is, a Porsche 944 uses a wedge base bulb for the dash lights, I have W3Ws in there now, and they're really freaking dim. I've been warned not to go any higher wattage. Am thinking LEDs might be a reasonable solution to the problem? Also thinking that red LEDs would be cool in an old Studebaker (uses #55 or 57 bulb) instead of the old paint-dipped 57Rs which are just as expensive as the LEDs. thanks, nate |
#29
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On Fri, 15 Jul 2005, N8N wrote:
> > > If they are replaced by 194s, try a W5W I think? > > > > Nope. W5W is closer than 194, but not the correct bulb for the > > application. > > Not to be argumentative, but what's the difference? It's a 5W bulb in > the same form factor as a 194... curious why there would be a need for > a bulb almost the same, but different... There are lots and lots of variants on this theme. 168, W5W, W5W-10X, W5W-6K, W5W-4A, 3652, 2886X, 70715... All of these are about 5 watts. Some of them put out more light than others. Some of them last longer than others. Some have different filament shapes. Of this list: One's halogen Three are Xenon filled One is Krypton filled One is Argon filled Two are vacuum bulbs > But you reminded me of another question I wanted to ask. Do you have > any experience with LED lights either in a 194-like wedge base or else > as a replacement for a #55? Yes, both. > Reason I ask is, a Porsche 944 uses a wedge base bulb for the dash > lights, I have W3Ws in there now, and they're really freaking dim. > I've been warned not to go any higher wattage. Am thinking LEDs might > be a reasonable solution to the problem? Also thinking that red LEDs > would be cool in an old Studebaker (uses #55 or 57 bulb) instead of the > old paint-dipped 57Rs which are just as expensive as the LEDs. You can try it...whether it will work or not depends on the positioning of the bulb with respect to the instruments themselves. Sometimes these "LED bulbs" work OK in dash illumination situations. Sometimes they don't work at all. And they never work in exterior lighting/signalling. |
#30
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On Fri, 15 Jul 2005, Ulf wrote:
>There's also a product called "Color Chrome", or something like that. I >thought about buying a can and color the lights on my BMW a little. I'm >not sure if it works on bulbs, or only lenses, but it might be worth a >try. Works very well on lenses, probably works OK on low-heat bulbs. http://dastern.torque.net/lampics/selyel.html |
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