Bosch Platium Spark plugs?

Good info and links - thanks. I pulled this from the first link...

"The heat range of a plug does not affect the power output of an engine.
Rather, it allows the plug to function as designed for the duration of the
racing event. In other words, once the correct heat range is found that
prevents fouling and does not contribute to the pre-ignition or detonation,
a change to a hotter or colder plug will not have a positive effect on
engine performance. "


"C. E. White" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Jonnie Santos wrote:
> >
> > I did plugs recently on my 97SL2 - used the NGK's from SPS. One model
was
> > slightly warmer and the other slightly cooler. Do you remember what
that
> > refers to and or what it means related to performance?
>
> Hotter or colder mean literally that. Hotter plugs have tips
> that get hotter as the engine warms up. Colder plugs have
> better heat conduction properties, so the tip is cooler.
>
> This was more important in the past when the spark was
> weaker. A hotter plug is less likely to foul (the depositis
> burn off), but it is more likelt to cause pre-ignition
> (knocking). A plug that is to cold might lead to missing -
> particaulrly in the old days when ignition systems were much
> wealer than today. Temperature range can be critical in
> racing engines that run for extended periods at high power
> levels. Plugs that are too "hot" can get so hot that they
> can cause severe preignition. Plugs that are too cold can
> foul out at low speeds.
>
> When you are talking about high perfomance engines that are
> at the edge of the performance envelope, a lot of weird
> things are done with spark plugs (minor changes in heat
> range, indexing, etc.). FoOr street cars most of these sorts
> of fine changes would be undetectable.
>
> See
>
> http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html
> http://www.tpub.com/content/construc...s/14273_64.htm
> http://www.densoiridium.com/heatranges.htm
>
> Regards,
>
> Ed White

Only furthers in my mind the adage:

"You can always tell a German;
You just can't tell him anything."

My son-in-law worked at Zeiss (a German owned company) where that saying was
widespread.

In my own dealings, I had designed a commercial ballast for an arc lamp. It
was designed to Osram's published specifications for one of their lamps. For
years these ballasts worked just fine. Recently, there have been some
problems experienced by customers and I tried to resolve any issues with
Osram. I even sent one of my ballasts to Osram to have it reviewed. The
report came back that the unit was 'satisfactory for use with their lamps."
No mention of possible trouble causes was made and they skipped over
entirely my assertion that their Japanese competitor's product totally
outperformed the Osram product.

Lest anybody think I am German bashing, Oppie is short for Oppenheimer and I
work for another German company.

Oppie


"Blah blah" > wrote in message
...
> I knew a search would come up with something.
>
> http://www.deathstar.org/~flash/bosch.html
>
> This guy seemed real happy getting new plugs from bosch. I'd be happy to
> get my money back rather than more frigg'n crap. I need to take pics of
> the ones I got sitting on a shelf. I know other people that have had
> problems with bosch plugs. I dont think bosch has been in any hurry to
> correct anything.

Just as a precaution, I always squirt a bit of Kroil www.kanolabs.com on the
base of the plugs and wait 10 minutes before trying to remove them. Kroil is
a great penetrating fluid.

Previously, I had stripped the threads in the head. Repair wasn't too bad.
Went to the parts store and got a tool to re-thread the hole oversize and a
steel insert that screws onto the plug and into the head. (Lisle made it
afik)
Carefully tap the new thread (this is no time to learn if you haven't done
tapping before). Helps to have the piston slightly down to keep it out of
the way. Blow out any chips that remain in the cylinder. Degrease the
surfaces and apply a small amount of stud lock to the sleeve exterior and
using a spark plug, thread it into the head. When the locking compound has
set up, the plug can be removed and a new one with anti-seize on it can be
torqued in.

Oppie


"James1549" > wrote in message
...
> Someone mentioned 100K miles plugs. Does Saturn still use aluminum heads?
>
> I wonder how easy a spark plug will come out of an aluminum head after
100,000
> miles? Will they come out with or without the threads?
>
> James

In article m>,
says...
> Just as a precaution, I always squirt a bit of Kroil www.kanolabs.com on the
> base of the plugs and wait 10 minutes before trying to remove them. Kroil is
> a great penetrating fluid.
>
> Previously, I had stripped the threads in the head. Repair wasn't too bad.
> Went to the parts store and got a tool to re-thread the hole oversize and a
> steel insert that screws onto the plug and into the head. (Lisle made it
> afik)
> Carefully tap the new thread (this is no time to learn if you haven't done
> tapping before). Helps to have the piston slightly down to keep it out of
> the way. Blow out any chips that remain in the cylinder. Degrease the
> surfaces and apply a small amount of stud lock to the sleeve exterior and
> using a spark plug, thread it into the head. When the locking compound has
> set up, the plug can be removed and a new one with anti-seize on it can be
> torqued in.
>
> Oppie

If you ever have to tap threads for something like a spark plug hole its
a good idea to put something like crisco on the tap. It will catch a lot
of the shavings and chips.

>Previously, I had stripped the threads in the head. Repair wasn't too bad.
>Went to the parts store and got a tool to re-thread the hole oversize and a
>steel insert that screws onto the plug and into the head. (Lisle made it
>afik)
>Carefully tap the new thread (this is no time to learn if you haven't done
>tapping before). Helps to have the piston slightly down to keep it out of
>the way. Blow out any chips that remain in the cylinder. Degrease the
>surfaces and apply a small amount of stud lock to the sleeve exterior and
>using a spark plug, thread it into the head. When the locking compound has
>set up, the plug can be removed and a new one with anti-seize on it can be
>torqued in.

I hurt the threads in one of my plugs awhile ago......I was removing one of the
plugs when all of a sudden it wouldn't turn anymore, I tried working it back
and forth, no luck......I ended up having to use a big breaker bar to get it
out.

The good news is, I just used a thread chaser and it fixed the threads, no
problem. No need to tap it bigger or anything.

Often, a bit of aluminum will stick to the steel threads and cause the plug
to jam. Forcing it just allows the aluminum chunk to tear at the rest of the
thread. You were very lucky just to be able to chase out the thread.

If it doesn't feel right at the start (and a lot of the times, I do it
anyway) I use a squirt of good penetrating fluid like Kroil then let it sit
a few minutes before proceeding. In spite of all the advertising, WD-40 is
nearly useless.
Oppie
_________________
"BANDIT2941" > wrote in message
...
|
| I hurt the threads in one of my plugs awhile ago......I was removing one
of the
| plugs when all of a sudden it wouldn't turn anymore, I tried working it
back
| and forth, no luck......I ended up having to use a big breaker bar to get
it
| out.
|
| The good news is, I just used a thread chaser and it fixed the threads, no
| problem. No need to tap it bigger or anything.

In article >,
"Oppie" > wrote:

> Often, a bit of aluminum will stick to the steel threads and cause the plug
> to jam. Forcing it just allows the aluminum chunk to tear at the rest of the
> thread. You were very lucky just to be able to chase out the thread.
>
> If it doesn't feel right at the start (and a lot of the times, I do it
> anyway) I use a squirt of good penetrating fluid like Kroil then let it sit
> a few minutes before proceeding. In spite of all the advertising, WD-40 is
> nearly useless.
> Oppie
> _________________
> "BANDIT2941" > wrote in message
> ...
> |
> | I hurt the threads in one of my plugs awhile ago......I was removing one
> of the
> | plugs when all of a sudden it wouldn't turn anymore, I tried working it
> back
> | and forth, no luck......I ended up having to use a big breaker bar to get
> it
> | out.
> |
> | The good news is, I just used a thread chaser and it fixed the threads, no
> | problem. No need to tap it bigger or anything.
>
>

ALWAYS use a good thread lube when putting spark plugs into an aluminum
head! Molykjote is good, as is Champion Plug Lube, available at airport
pilot supply shops.