need haynes manual

hi Geoff
thanks very much for posting the tool list!
i REALLY appreciate it
i *do* have some of tools that you mention...
thanks again
sincerely,
Tanya


Geoff wrote:

> > hi and thanks for answering!
> > basically i have S.T.U.P.I.D. questions (for ex: what tools i would need)
> > this is
> > in the haynes manual for my other car --
> > i would NOT follow haynes / chiltons for procedures if they were outlined
> > in the
> > fsm.
>
> Hi, Tanya.
>
> Why don't you try posting about what task you want to perform, and we will
> give you an idea as to what tools you need to get the job done properly.
> Meanwhile, we'll assume you have some basic things you need for most
> automotive repairs:
>
> Basic Tools
> o Socket sets: 1/2" and 3/8" drive, both SAE and metric sizes. Extensions
> for same; the more and longer the better.
> o Box-end or combination open-end/box-end wrenches. SAE and metric sizes.
> o Pliers. You can frequently get away with a standard pair, but
> adjustables come in handy. Needle-nosed pliers are especially useful as
> well.
> o Wire cutter/stripping tool. You don't need anything fancy.
> o Screwdrivers. A selection of both Phillips and flat-blades. Long,
> skinny flat-blades are often handy.
> o A utility knife, or other similar instrument.
> o Hammer. If you have a typical claw hammer, it will do. A ball-peen
> hammer is useful.
> o Rubber or (less desirable) wooden mallet. Used for "gently" "persuading"
> things, where a regular hammer would damage parts.
> o Scraping tool -- a putty knife or razor-blade scraper will suffice. You
> may also require a plastic scraper if you're going to be removing old gasket
> material from soft aluminum surfaces.
> o A pry (or crow) bar of some sort.
> o A magnetic tool, usually telescoping, for retrieving dropped fasteners or
> sockets
> o An oil drain pan
> o A small floor jack and a pair of jack stands. Choose carefully if you're
> working on a large SUV; some are heavier than the rating on the less
> expensive jacks/stands, and are too high off the ground to be lifted.
> o Something to block the wheels when lifting the vehicle with the jack. A
> couple of bricks work fine.
> o A shop light, with a steel or plastic protective cage surrounding the
> bulb. An inexpensive incandescent light works fine, but you'll want to
> spend an extra dollar or two for the 'rough service' lightbulbs.
>
> Consumables
> o A wire brush
> o An aerosol can of penetrating lubricant.
> o An aerosol can of carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner
> o A small blowtorch and a cylinder of propane, along with matches or a
> spark igniter
> o An abundance of old rags, paper towels and a good waterless hand cleaner.
> Lava soap works as well.
> o A roll of electrical tape
>
> There are obviously many, many other items you could add to this list.
> These are probably the bare minimum you will want to have to tackle light
> repair work. Being that winter is setting in for many parts of the country,
> you will likely need to find a sheltered location to do your work.
>
> If you're going to be doing much at all, add a torque wrench to the list
> above. You'll probably actually want two: one with a range in inch-pounds
> for small fasteners, and one with a range in foot-pounds for larger
> fasteners. Basic units start around $25, but the quality is questionable.
>
> --Geoff

hi and thanks for replying and for the suggestions
[...below...]

Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:

> "Tanya" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Asking questions is probably the best bet.
> >
> > my questions are stupid... how to access certain parts (what parts i need
> to
> > remove).
>
> Tanya, if you read the section in the FSM and don't understand it, your
> questions aren't going to be stupid.
>
> Some joker asked if he could feed his car vegetables a couple days ago
> in rec.autos.tech, THAT is a stupid question.
>
> You may not think so but it is as easy as pie to tell the difference between
> a fool who doesen't have a FSM and asks a stupid question, and someone
> who does have a FSM, reads the pertinent section, then asks questions.
>
> In fact questions like this are why we all bother reading this ng.
>
> > what type of tools are needed for replacing spark-plugs (for that vehicle)
> etc.
>
> You aren't going to help yourself by asking something like this and not
> telling
> us why.
>
> Here's a start, you can let me know if I'm wrong or not:
>
> "My car is running like crap and I want to do a basic tuneup to eliminate
> obvious bull****, so I'm replacing the coil/plugs/wires, I read the FSM and
> what tools should I use"
>
> Ted

close
car runs poorly when it is cold (even without the blower (fan in the car)) -- it
*does* start with no problem ...
the spark plugs were changed last week (the ones that were replaced are VERY
black and were only in the car for ~ 10 months)

i want to look at the spark plugs -- i don't know how :-)

thanks again
sincerely
Tanya

hi and thanks for replying and for the suggestions
[...below...]

Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:

> "Tanya" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Asking questions is probably the best bet.
> >
> > my questions are stupid... how to access certain parts (what parts i need
> to
> > remove).
>
> Tanya, if you read the section in the FSM and don't understand it, your
> questions aren't going to be stupid.
>
> Some joker asked if he could feed his car vegetables a couple days ago
> in rec.autos.tech, THAT is a stupid question.
>
> You may not think so but it is as easy as pie to tell the difference between
> a fool who doesen't have a FSM and asks a stupid question, and someone
> who does have a FSM, reads the pertinent section, then asks questions.
>
> In fact questions like this are why we all bother reading this ng.
>
> > what type of tools are needed for replacing spark-plugs (for that vehicle)
> etc.
>
> You aren't going to help yourself by asking something like this and not
> telling
> us why.
>
> Here's a start, you can let me know if I'm wrong or not:
>
> "My car is running like crap and I want to do a basic tuneup to eliminate
> obvious bull****, so I'm replacing the coil/plugs/wires, I read the FSM and
> what tools should I use"
>
> Ted

close
car runs poorly when it is cold (even without the blower (fan in the car)) -- it
*does* start with no problem ...
the spark plugs were changed last week (the ones that were replaced are VERY
black and were only in the car for ~ 10 months)

i want to look at the spark plugs -- i don't know how :-)

thanks again
sincerely
Tanya

Matt Whiting wrote:

> Tanya wrote:
>
> > hi
> > (x-posted)
> > i need a haynes manual for the following:
> > mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> > 200) (?2000 series)
> > it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;
> >
> > fairly urgent
> > PLEASE ADVISE!
> > thanks in advance!
> >
>
> Nobody needs a Haynes manual. You are much better off buying a factory
> manual, used if need be to save cost.
>
> Matt

hi,
thanks for the suggestion
i have the factory manual.
sincerely,
Tanya

Matt Whiting wrote:

> Tanya wrote:
>
> > hi
> > (x-posted)
> > i need a haynes manual for the following:
> > mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> > 200) (?2000 series)
> > it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;
> >
> > fairly urgent
> > PLEASE ADVISE!
> > thanks in advance!
> >
>
> Nobody needs a Haynes manual. You are much better off buying a factory
> manual, used if need be to save cost.
>
> Matt

hi,
thanks for the suggestion
i have the factory manual.
sincerely,
Tanya

"Tanya" > wrote in message
...
> hi and thanks for replying and for the suggestions
> [...below...]
>
> Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:
>
> >
> > Here's a start, you can let me know if I'm wrong or not:
> >
> > "My car is running like crap and I want to do a basic tuneup to
eliminate
> > obvious bull****, so I'm replacing the coil/plugs/wires, I read the FSM
and
> > what tools should I use"
> >
> > Ted
>
> close
> car runs poorly when it is cold (even without the blower (fan in the
car)) -- it
> *does* start with no problem ...
> the spark plugs were changed last week (the ones that were replaced are
VERY
> black and were only in the car for ~ 10 months)
>
> i want to look at the spark plugs -- i don't know how :-)
>

Leave the plugs alone. If your plugs were very black when changed last week
after only being in the engine for 10 months, then your engine is burning
oil, unless they were the wrong plugs. If nothing has been changed since 10
months
ago other than the plugs, the ones that are in there today are rapidly on
their way to
getting black.

What does the inside of the end of the tailpipe look like? Is it black and
sooty?

If you have the car idling in the driveway on a sunny day and someone guns
the engine, does a big puff of stinky blueish smoke come out the back?

How many miles are on this 1989 Colt? How many quarts of oil is this car
going
through in between oil changes?

The cold drivability problems are just a side effect, and are not important.
They
are probably happening because this is a high-mileage engine with worn
rings,
which is why it's burning oil, and the compression on this engine is in the
toilet.
As a result the engine systems are way out of wack, trying to overcompensate
for
this.

If your using more than a quart of oil every 2000 miles then your not going
to
fix this by adjusting and tinkering with the engine. You either need a new
engine, or a rebuild on the one you have, or a junkyard engine that isn't
worn
out.

Ted

"Tanya" > wrote in message
...
> hi and thanks for replying and for the suggestions
> [...below...]
>
> Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:
>
> >
> > Here's a start, you can let me know if I'm wrong or not:
> >
> > "My car is running like crap and I want to do a basic tuneup to
eliminate
> > obvious bull****, so I'm replacing the coil/plugs/wires, I read the FSM
and
> > what tools should I use"
> >
> > Ted
>
> close
> car runs poorly when it is cold (even without the blower (fan in the
car)) -- it
> *does* start with no problem ...
> the spark plugs were changed last week (the ones that were replaced are
VERY
> black and were only in the car for ~ 10 months)
>
> i want to look at the spark plugs -- i don't know how :-)
>

Leave the plugs alone. If your plugs were very black when changed last week
after only being in the engine for 10 months, then your engine is burning
oil, unless they were the wrong plugs. If nothing has been changed since 10
months
ago other than the plugs, the ones that are in there today are rapidly on
their way to
getting black.

What does the inside of the end of the tailpipe look like? Is it black and
sooty?

If you have the car idling in the driveway on a sunny day and someone guns
the engine, does a big puff of stinky blueish smoke come out the back?

How many miles are on this 1989 Colt? How many quarts of oil is this car
going
through in between oil changes?

The cold drivability problems are just a side effect, and are not important.
They
are probably happening because this is a high-mileage engine with worn
rings,
which is why it's burning oil, and the compression on this engine is in the
toilet.
As a result the engine systems are way out of wack, trying to overcompensate
for
this.

If your using more than a quart of oil every 2000 miles then your not going
to
fix this by adjusting and tinkering with the engine. You either need a new
engine, or a rebuild on the one you have, or a junkyard engine that isn't
worn
out.

Ted

Tanya wrote:

> hi
> (x-posted)
> i need a haynes manual for the following:
> mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> 200) (?2000 series)
> it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;
>
> fairly urgent
> PLEASE ADVISE!
> thanks in advance!
>
if you really wish to use these manuals try your local library, from
reading the other posts sounds as if a) you would be better off looking
yourself and making your own gameplan to work on a vehicle (at least if
you leave steps out or make extra steps all you can blame is yourself)
b) pay attention to the reply about it being worn rings, could be fuel
air mixture also albiet very unlikely

Tanya wrote:

> hi
> (x-posted)
> i need a haynes manual for the following:
> mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> 200) (?2000 series)
> it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;
>
> fairly urgent
> PLEASE ADVISE!
> thanks in advance!
>
if you really wish to use these manuals try your local library, from
reading the other posts sounds as if a) you would be better off looking
yourself and making your own gameplan to work on a vehicle (at least if
you leave steps out or make extra steps all you can blame is yourself)
b) pay attention to the reply about it being worn rings, could be fuel
air mixture also albiet very unlikely

Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:
<snip>

> > close
> > car runs poorly when it is cold (even without the blower (fan in the
> car)) -- it
> > *does* start with no problem ...
> > the spark plugs were changed last week (the ones that were replaced are
> VERY
> > black and were only in the car for ~ 10 months)
> >
> > i want to look at the spark plugs -- i don't know how :-)
> >
>
> Leave the plugs alone. If your plugs were very black when changed last week
> after only being in the engine for 10 months, then your engine is burning
> oil, unless they were the wrong plugs.

i don't know if they were the wrong plugs:
i have them and they are
NGK
R
BPR6EY
11
the fsm says to use:
NGK
BPR6ES - 11
i don't know whether the Y vs. S is important (because i got "champion RN9YC?"
(the box is in the car) however these are different in the last number but the
place's (where i got them) catalogue says there are fine for that auto. (should
be RN9YC4)
the former plugs are charred.
what was changed: there was <apparently> an exhaust leak which was fixed
(replacement)
and an emissions treatment (something for the oil; engine and gas) it had an oil
change
then it failed nox (>2000?) and was "readjusted" -- the place said that it had
to be reset.
it apparently passed after this


> If nothing has been changed since 10
> months
> ago other than the plugs, the ones that are in there today are rapidly on
> their way to
> getting black.

probably

> What does the inside of the end of the tailpipe look like? Is it black and
> sooty?

it became black last summer on several occasions (xs rich exhaust) so i don't
think that it is worse -- difficult to tell

> If you have the car idling in the driveway on a sunny day and someone guns
> the engine, does a big puff of stinky blueish smoke come out the back?

no (no black smoke -- no blue smoke)

> How many miles are on this 1989 Colt?

~70,000

> How many quarts of oil is this car
> going
> through in between oil changes?

hardly any -- uses VERY little oil
(also used very little fuel)

> The cold drivability problems are just a side effect, and are not important.
> They
> are probably happening because this is a high-mileage engine with worn
> rings,
> which is why it's burning oil, and the compression on this engine is in the
> toilet.
> As a result the engine systems are way out of wack, trying to overcompensate
> for
> this.

this is why i would really like to be informed since i have no idea whether
"procedures" were actually done

> If your using more than a quart of oil every 2000 miles then your not going
> to
> fix this by adjusting and tinkering with the engine. You either need a new
> engine, or a rebuild on the one you have, or a junkyard engine that isn't
> worn
> out.

it should not need that right now ... (was kept in really good "shape")

> Ted

thanks for reply!
sincerely
Tanya