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#61
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Straightening an Aluminum wheel
phaeton > wrote:
> >Why is it better to replace the arm? Is it because you can also do >the upper bushings, too? It is a LOT less effort. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
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#62
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Straightening an Aluminum wheel
I would check the auto junkyards for a good wheel.If not available in
the local area, some local area junkyards can get one from another junkyard. cuhulin |
#63
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Straightening an Aluminum wheel
phaeton wrote:
>> It's a press in and the early 99s were NOT replaceable. You replaced the >> entire arm. (Which is actually a better way anyway). >> >> The only real way to tell is to either run the VIN or pull it apart and >> look. Personally I would get the new arms and start there. >> >> -- >> Steve W. > > Why is it better to replace the arm? Is it because you can also do > the upper bushings, too? > > -J With the press in style joints it is easy to damage the arm if you don't use the correct tools and have practice with them. Then there are the bushings, plus the new arms will save close to an hour time wise. -- Steve W. |
#64
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Straightening an Aluminum wheel
On Dec 21, 12:25*am, "Steve W." > wrote:
> phaeton wrote: > >> It's a press in and the early 99s were NOT replaceable. You replaced the > >> entire arm. (Which is actually a better way anyway). > > >> The only real way to tell is to either run the VIN or pull it apart and > >> look. Personally I would get the new arms and start there. > > >> -- > >> Steve W. > > > Why is it better to replace the arm? *Is it because you can also do > > the upper bushings, too? > > > -J > > With the press in style joints it is easy to damage the arm if you don't > *use the correct tools and have practice with them. > Then there are the bushings, plus the new arms will save close to an > hour time wise. > > -- > Steve W. I see. I should probably do both sides at the same time, huh? -J |
#65
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Straightening an Aluminum wheel
phaeton wrote:
> On Dec 21, 12:25 am, "Steve W." > wrote: >> phaeton wrote: >>>> It's a press in and the early 99s were NOT replaceable. You replaced the >>>> entire arm. (Which is actually a better way anyway). >>>> The only real way to tell is to either run the VIN or pull it apart and >>>> look. Personally I would get the new arms and start there. >>>> -- >>>> Steve W. >>> Why is it better to replace the arm? Is it because you can also do >>> the upper bushings, too? >>> -J >> With the press in style joints it is easy to damage the arm if you don't >> use the correct tools and have practice with them. >> Then there are the bushings, plus the new arms will save close to an >> hour time wise. >> >> -- >> Steve W. > > I see. I should probably do both sides at the same time, huh? > > -J If you intend to keep the vehicle for a while I would do both sides, uppers AND lowers, plus the tie rods. I would also check/replace the lower A-arm bushings. Then get it aligned by a good shop. Use joints that you can grease and grease it at every oil change and the front end will hold up a LOT longer. Gets rid of the old parts and gives you a clean slate on maintainance of that end. -- Steve W. |
#66
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Straightening an Aluminum wheel
In article >, Steve W. > wrote:
>phaeton wrote: >> >> Why is it better to replace the arm? Is it because you can also do >> the upper bushings, too? > >With the press in style joints it is easy to damage the arm if you don't > use the correct tools and have practice with them. >Then there are the bushings, plus the new arms will save close to an >hour time wise. They aren't THAT bad. You take the old arms out completely, then you press the old joints out and the new joints in on an arbor press. You don't try and do them in place. If you don't have an arbor press, a drill press with a piece of rod stock in it can do the job, but you do have to be careful that you're applying force only around the edge of the bushing and never in the center. If you're a poor starving student with more time than money (and access to the shop at school), I recommend doing it yourself. Otherwise replace the whole arms. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#67
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Straightening an Aluminum wheel
On Dec 21, 9:48*am, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:
> In article >, Steve W. > wrote: > >phaeton wrote: > > >> Why is it better to replace the arm? *Is it because you can also do > >> the upper bushings, too? > > >With the press in style joints it is easy to damage the arm if you don't > > use the correct tools and have practice with them. > >Then there are the bushings, plus the new arms will save close to an > >hour time wise. > > They aren't THAT bad. *You take the old arms out completely, then you > press the old joints out and the new joints in on an arbor press. *You > don't try and do them in place. > > If you don't have an arbor press, a drill press with a piece of rod stock > in it can do the job, but you do have to be careful that you're applying > force only around the edge of the bushing and never in the center. > > If you're a poor starving student with more time than money (and access to > the shop at school), I recommend doing it yourself. *Otherwise replace the > whole arms. > --scott > > -- > "C'est un Nagra. *C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." I see. Thanks. As far as keeping the truck forever... well, it's paid for, and as long as its monthly repair bills are less than a new car payment, it's what I've got. My plan is keep it together long enough so that I can finish college, which (at this rate) is going to be about 4 or 5 years. It's 10 years old, is pushing 167K miles, and I probably could have taken a little better care of it than I have, but I think it'll do it. It's got the 2.5L stroked Pinto engine and a T-5, both of which should be either long-lasting or inexpensive to keep working, even if the rest of the truck rots away around them. -J |
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