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Hey! Is refinishKing still lurking here?



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 10th 04, 07:37 PM
HachiRoku
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Default Hey! Is refinishKing still lurking here?

Hey!
Ads
  #2  
Old October 11th 04, 12:58 PM
Refinish King
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Posts: n/a
Default

Hi:

Sometimes, working 14-16 hours a day, 7 days a week doesn't make one feel
like chatting much!

If you need me holler!

Refinish King
"HachiRoku" > wrote in message
news:Ejfad.1748$wV6.209@trndny06...
> Hey!



  #3  
Old October 11th 04, 12:58 PM
Refinish King
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Hi:

Sometimes, working 14-16 hours a day, 7 days a week doesn't make one feel
like chatting much!

If you need me holler!

Refinish King
"HachiRoku" > wrote in message
news:Ejfad.1748$wV6.209@trndny06...
> Hey!



  #4  
Old October 12th 04, 06:34 AM
HachiRoku
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Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 11:58:17 +0000, Refinish King wrote:

> Hi:
>
> Sometimes, working 14-16 hours a day, 7 days a week doesn't make one feel
> like chatting much!
>
> If you need me holler!
>


Ha! I did!

Have a question for you. 1988 Toyota Supra, minimal rust. There are a
couple surface spost, largest one the size of a softball. The passenger's
door has a strip of rust just along the bottom, about 18 inches long, and
I mean the bottom. There is about a 3" strip halfway down the door on the
leading edge, at the bottom, about 1" circle, and at the rear edge, also
minimal. The pass front fender has an oval 3.5" x 2". Rockers are
absolutely SOLID (rare on a Toyota this old). The worst spots are under
the cladding in the rear wheel wells. On the driver's side there is about
a 2" circle; if you reach in through the kack access you can feel it all
the way up front. Some of the attachments holding the moldings on are
rusted. But, the absolute *worst* spot is the pass side, rear 1/4, same
area as driver's side but 5-6" top to bottom and 4" wide. Again, under the
cladding.

What's the best way to attack this problem, bearing in mind I want
(preferably metal) to stop the rust and then oil the body afterwards.
Other than that, the body is very good, and the underneath is excellent!

  #5  
Old October 12th 04, 06:34 AM
HachiRoku
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 11:58:17 +0000, Refinish King wrote:

> Hi:
>
> Sometimes, working 14-16 hours a day, 7 days a week doesn't make one feel
> like chatting much!
>
> If you need me holler!
>


Ha! I did!

Have a question for you. 1988 Toyota Supra, minimal rust. There are a
couple surface spost, largest one the size of a softball. The passenger's
door has a strip of rust just along the bottom, about 18 inches long, and
I mean the bottom. There is about a 3" strip halfway down the door on the
leading edge, at the bottom, about 1" circle, and at the rear edge, also
minimal. The pass front fender has an oval 3.5" x 2". Rockers are
absolutely SOLID (rare on a Toyota this old). The worst spots are under
the cladding in the rear wheel wells. On the driver's side there is about
a 2" circle; if you reach in through the kack access you can feel it all
the way up front. Some of the attachments holding the moldings on are
rusted. But, the absolute *worst* spot is the pass side, rear 1/4, same
area as driver's side but 5-6" top to bottom and 4" wide. Again, under the
cladding.

What's the best way to attack this problem, bearing in mind I want
(preferably metal) to stop the rust and then oil the body afterwards.
Other than that, the body is very good, and the underneath is excellent!

  #6  
Old October 20th 04, 03:37 AM
Refinish King
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

There are replacement panels made for the quarters:

The door bottoms you can actually buy pre bent pieces and solder them in
place, rather than weld and distort the door panels.

You can also solder the quarter replacement panels on. For the pock marked
rust areas, there is a small hand held, recirculating blaster. Which uses
milled cast iron media as the abrasive.

Vacula was the only company that made it, it has 5 different shaped rubber
tips, to place up against the area to blast and prevent a mess. Now you can
buy one at either Harbor Freight or Smart Shoppers Auto Body Supply, on the
net.

I hope this helps?

If you have anymore questions, just ask. I'll gladly answer you in a day or
two, maybe three.

Refinish King


"HachiRoku" > wrote in message
news:W1Kad.5011$YU4.2302@trnddc06...
> On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 11:58:17 +0000, Refinish King wrote:
>
> > Hi:
> >
> > Sometimes, working 14-16 hours a day, 7 days a week doesn't make one

feel
> > like chatting much!
> >
> > If you need me holler!
> >

>
> Ha! I did!
>
> Have a question for you. 1988 Toyota Supra, minimal rust. There are a
> couple surface spost, largest one the size of a softball. The passenger's
> door has a strip of rust just along the bottom, about 18 inches long, and
> I mean the bottom. There is about a 3" strip halfway down the door on the
> leading edge, at the bottom, about 1" circle, and at the rear edge, also
> minimal. The pass front fender has an oval 3.5" x 2". Rockers are
> absolutely SOLID (rare on a Toyota this old). The worst spots are under
> the cladding in the rear wheel wells. On the driver's side there is about
> a 2" circle; if you reach in through the kack access you can feel it all
> the way up front. Some of the attachments holding the moldings on are
> rusted. But, the absolute *worst* spot is the pass side, rear 1/4, same
> area as driver's side but 5-6" top to bottom and 4" wide. Again, under the
> cladding.
>
> What's the best way to attack this problem, bearing in mind I want
> (preferably metal) to stop the rust and then oil the body afterwards.
> Other than that, the body is very good, and the underneath is excellent!
>



  #7  
Old October 20th 04, 03:37 AM
Refinish King
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

There are replacement panels made for the quarters:

The door bottoms you can actually buy pre bent pieces and solder them in
place, rather than weld and distort the door panels.

You can also solder the quarter replacement panels on. For the pock marked
rust areas, there is a small hand held, recirculating blaster. Which uses
milled cast iron media as the abrasive.

Vacula was the only company that made it, it has 5 different shaped rubber
tips, to place up against the area to blast and prevent a mess. Now you can
buy one at either Harbor Freight or Smart Shoppers Auto Body Supply, on the
net.

I hope this helps?

If you have anymore questions, just ask. I'll gladly answer you in a day or
two, maybe three.

Refinish King


"HachiRoku" > wrote in message
news:W1Kad.5011$YU4.2302@trnddc06...
> On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 11:58:17 +0000, Refinish King wrote:
>
> > Hi:
> >
> > Sometimes, working 14-16 hours a day, 7 days a week doesn't make one

feel
> > like chatting much!
> >
> > If you need me holler!
> >

>
> Ha! I did!
>
> Have a question for you. 1988 Toyota Supra, minimal rust. There are a
> couple surface spost, largest one the size of a softball. The passenger's
> door has a strip of rust just along the bottom, about 18 inches long, and
> I mean the bottom. There is about a 3" strip halfway down the door on the
> leading edge, at the bottom, about 1" circle, and at the rear edge, also
> minimal. The pass front fender has an oval 3.5" x 2". Rockers are
> absolutely SOLID (rare on a Toyota this old). The worst spots are under
> the cladding in the rear wheel wells. On the driver's side there is about
> a 2" circle; if you reach in through the kack access you can feel it all
> the way up front. Some of the attachments holding the moldings on are
> rusted. But, the absolute *worst* spot is the pass side, rear 1/4, same
> area as driver's side but 5-6" top to bottom and 4" wide. Again, under the
> cladding.
>
> What's the best way to attack this problem, bearing in mind I want
> (preferably metal) to stop the rust and then oil the body afterwards.
> Other than that, the body is very good, and the underneath is excellent!
>



 




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