tips or tricks to remove upper ball joints

x-posted: rec.autos.tech, alt.autos.isuzu - followup set: rec.autos.tech

1990 isuzu trooper (198k miles), v6, 4wd, 4door, 4-wheel disc brakes.

attempted to replace the right side upper ball joint.
(will be replacing both uppers and will be doing all
tie rod ends).

[front] frame on jackstands. floor jack up under lower
a-frame and jacked up fully to unspring.

removed cotter pin and loosened ball joint castellation
nut a couple of turns. inserted ball joint separation
tool (fork style) and hammered all the way in.

balljoint stud didnt budge from the steering knuckle
i pryed up and down on the fork with no success. i
litely tapped (horizontally) on the knuckle in hopes
of "vibrating" the balljoint stud loose. no luck.

searched google for "tips tricks remove ball joint" and
didnt turn up anything more than i tried. i've done this
job on other vehicles in the past with immediate success.

.... any tips/tricks y'all might know about?

--
<< http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >>
What I want is all of the power and none of the responsibility.

The only trick I know is to use a bigger hammer. Seriously, the last
one I helped on needed a 10 lb hammer to move it. A 5 lb might have
done, but the smaller ones were useless.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

mjt wrote:
>
> x-posted: rec.autos.tech, alt.autos.isuzu - followup set: rec.autos.tech
>
> 1990 isuzu trooper (198k miles), v6, 4wd, 4door, 4-wheel disc brakes.
>
> attempted to replace the right side upper ball joint.
> (will be replacing both uppers and will be doing all
> tie rod ends).
>
> [front] frame on jackstands. floor jack up under lower
> a-frame and jacked up fully to unspring.
>
> removed cotter pin and loosened ball joint castellation
> nut a couple of turns. inserted ball joint separation
> tool (fork style) and hammered all the way in.
>
> balljoint stud didnt budge from the steering knuckle
> i pryed up and down on the fork with no success. i
> litely tapped (horizontally) on the knuckle in hopes
> of "vibrating" the balljoint stud loose. no luck.
>
> searched google for "tips tricks remove ball joint" and
> didnt turn up anything more than i tried. i've done this
> job on other vehicles in the past with immediate success.
>
> ... any tips/tricks y'all might know about?
>
> --
> << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >>
> What I want is all of the power and none of the responsibility.

Mike Romain wrote:
> The only trick I know is to use a bigger hammer. Seriously, the last
> one I helped on needed a 10 lb hammer to move it. A 5 lb might have
> done, but the smaller ones were useless.
>
> Mike

That, and a good air hammer with a rounded tip. Use some penetrating
oil along with it and they come right out.

"Kruse" > wrote in
oups.com:

>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The only trick I know is to use a bigger hammer. Seriously, the last
>> one I helped on needed a 10 lb hammer to move it. A 5 lb might have
>> done, but the smaller ones were useless.
>>
>> Mike
>
> That, and a good air hammer with a rounded tip. Use some penetrating
> oil along with it and they come right out.
>
>



What about this?:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556

--
TeGGeR®

If you mean pulling the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle
there is an easy way. You need two good sized hammers. Put one hammer on
one side of the socket on the knuckle. Now take the other hammer and hit
the opposite side of the knuckle. (Like you were trying to crush the
parts) Give it a good whack and the stud should pop loose.

>>> ( \/ ) <<<
Hammer 1 Hammer 2

--
Steve Williams

"mjt" > wrote in message
news:20050402084207.24845c7b@localhost...
> x-posted: rec.autos.tech, alt.autos.isuzu - followup set:
rec.autos.tech
>
> 1990 isuzu trooper (198k miles), v6, 4wd, 4door, 4-wheel disc brakes.
>
> attempted to replace the right side upper ball joint.
> (will be replacing both uppers and will be doing all
> tie rod ends).
>
> [front] frame on jackstands. floor jack up under lower
> a-frame and jacked up fully to unspring.
>
> removed cotter pin and loosened ball joint castellation
> nut a couple of turns. inserted ball joint separation
> tool (fork style) and hammered all the way in.
>
> balljoint stud didnt budge from the steering knuckle
> i pryed up and down on the fork with no success. i
> litely tapped (horizontally) on the knuckle in hopes
> of "vibrating" the balljoint stud loose. no luck.
>
> searched google for "tips tricks remove ball joint" and
> didnt turn up anything more than i tried. i've done this
> job on other vehicles in the past with immediate success.
>
> ... any tips/tricks y'all might know about?
>
> --
> << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >>
> What I want is all of the power and none of the responsibility.
>



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Steve W. wrote:

> If you mean pulling the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle
> there is an easy way. You need two good sized hammers. Put one hammer on
> one side of the socket on the knuckle. Now take the other hammer and hit
> the opposite side of the knuckle. (Like you were trying to crush the
> parts) Give it a good whack and the stud should pop loose.
>
> >>> ( \/ ) <<<
> Hammer 1 Hammer 2

.... interesting indeed - so i take the two hammers
and hit both sides of the knuckle at the same time?

seems reasonable when you think about it. thanks much!!!
--
<< http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >>
The surest sign that a man is in love is when he divorces his wife.

Mike Romain wrote:

> The only trick I know is to use a bigger hammer. Seriously, the last
> one I helped on needed a 10 lb hammer to move it. A 5 lb might have
> done, but the smaller ones were useless.

.... use a big hammer, "where"? on the knuckle?
the ball stud?

i hammered the fork (ball joint separation tool)
all the way that it can go. i even pushed UP and
DOWN on the fork's arm.
--
<< http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >>
Vulcans believe peace should not depend on force.
-- Amanda, "Journey to Babel", stardate 3842.3

Kruse wrote:

> That, and a good air hammer with a rounded tip. Use some penetrating
> oil along with it and they come right out.

.... wish i had the facilities, such as a large
compressor and SnapOn tools the penetrating
oil is a good idea!!
--
<< http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >>
There is only one thing in the world worse than being talked about, and
that is not being talked about.
-- Oscar Wilde

TeGGer® wrote:

> What about this?:
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556

.... that's cool!!! i had been to three different
automotive tool shops (and Sears) and all of them
only had the separating fork, which i already have.

--
<< http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >>
<Joy> that's a Kludge(TM)
<knghtbrd> It Works(tm)
<Joy> AIX works(TM)
<knghtbrd> no it doesn't
<knghtbrd> =>

TeGGer=AE wrote:

> What about this?:
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...&ProdID=3D6556
>
> --
> TeGGeR=AE

I've never used one, but it should probably work fine. I guess I've
used the air hammer because with it and a few different tips, you do
use it for a few other things too. (exhaust work, ball joints, removing
stuck brake rotors/drums)

I guess the ball joint separator would work especially well if you were
without an industrial air compressor. :-)