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"Bruce" > wrote
> I checked the PCV valve a few weeks ago... I was told if the bead > inside is loose, it's ok. I don't buy this. There's a spring in there and it will lose its optimum effectiveness over time, despite the little test one can do to hear the bead operate the valve. The valve is a control valve, meaning it often operates somewhere between fully open and fully shut, so the spring's integrity should be vital. Particularly if it's the original PCV valve, I would replace it. Just one easy thing to eliminate. > I blew some degreaser through it just to be > sure, but there is no moisture build-up in the crank case. Now I fully remove my Civic's PCV valve once a year and spray PB Blaster into it. > I guess for > a $3 part I might as well get a new one, but I don't think it's the > problem. Buy the OEM PCV valve for around $20 at your dealer's. Word on the street is that the non-OEM versions are not good. > Do Honda plug wires make that much of a difference? My understanding is yes. Buy the OEM plug wires. (I am frugal, by the way, but over the years I've learned my lesson on certain Honda engine parts and find the extra bucks laid out now saves me trouble later.) > What about brands > of plugs? Buy what the owner's manual recommends. My 91 Civic manual lists the exact plugs for three different manufacturers (NGK, ND, and Champion). I don't think platinum makes any noticeable difference, so don't let the salesperson at Autozone or wherever talk you into the platinum version unless you think it's cost-effective and/or improves performance. I think NGK is popular and a safe bet among people here. > The wires I have now are the most expensive ones at Autozone Lose these. > and the plugs were about $2 each IIRC. > > > Air filter is only a few months old, doesn't look dirty at all. Sounds good. > I've heard the fuel filter is an easy job, but I've never done one > before. Where is it located and what does it look like? I guess if I > just buy one it will help me find it. Yes. > I think my Haynes manual says > it's on the firewall, That's where it is on my 1991 Civic. > but it also states that the fuel pressure must be > > released to do this, and it's pretty vague about that procedure. Autozone should have a free online repair guide for your Civic that matches Chilton's. The Chilton manuals are better than Haynes, in my experience. Or go to http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/ConcertoManual/index.html. Go to the "Fuel and Emissions" sections, and click on "fuel filter." There's a drawing there that may help. The Concerto engine is very similar, if not identical, to the early 1990s Civic engines. The torque specs vary, though, so you should go to Autozone or get a Chilton's to get the exact torque specs for your fuel filter. Many years ago during the first time I replaced the filter, I found getting the bolts loose a little tricky. I had to find ways to brace wrenches etc. I also didn't have the best wrenches for the job. Now I do. Having done this four or five times, it's now a piece of cake. It's not hard nor particularly dangerous to release the fuel pressure. One just slowly loosens what is called the service bolt on the top of the filter, holding a rag around it, so some gasoline leaks out and relieves pressure. As I trust you can imagine, these are all regular maintenance items, so by doing them, you haven't really wasted money, and you've narrowed down what's behind your Civic's problems. |
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